Oil Spraying Nozzles Upgrades?

[Parallel]

I've got most of my parts together to start building my engine.
I just realized last night that I can't find my oil sprayers/nozzles. I remember seeing them when I picked up my engine from the machine shop so I guess I lost them in transit some how.

416102_x600.jpg

Most cost effective price I could find was from ECS tuning $22.84 each part number 11421730618
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...30618/ES23914/

My engine block is M50 Non Vanos

Question is there any upgrades in later generations that would be better?
Or should I just pop these in and call it a day?

[chikinhed]

I'd just throw in new ones. I've had my engine apart a couple of times now and both times I've found a few that we're not operating correctly.

Sent from my GTX3582R

[1SLWM3]

I'd just throw in new ones. I've had my engine apart a couple of times now and both times I've found a few that we're not operating correctly.

Sent from my GTX3582R

This is has been my experience as well.

[Def]

Question - I've never seen it talked about here, but do the factory pistons have notches on the skirt to clear the oil sprayers on the larger stroke motors? On SR's aftermarket pistons frequently used to have the notch slightly misplaced or not big enough to account for thermal expansion to where the piston would shear the sprayer off, which would lose the check valve and any restriction the sprayer provides, which would then cause oil pressure at idle to be far too low - ultimately leads to trashed bearings/cams/engine. I never really see it talked about here, but I've always wondered what sort of clearance there is.

[chikinhed]

My oil squirters did not appear damaged externally but when cleaned and tested, at the recent engine build, three did not seal and one had internal seat failure. They were good 30000 km earlier.

Sent from my GTX3582R

[Parallel]

The SR20 mounts the nozzles just below the cylinder bore. The M50 design is a nozzle on the main journal. There is no interference issues with the M50 design

Thanks for the input Brad! I'm Peter_M from BCbimmers. I am ordering new nozzles today.

[danielis112]

Hello people, need some info to this thread.
1. Are these nozzles in all motors?
2. Are these nozzles in all m50?
3. Where I can find them to remove? I have engine lower part from m50 and can't find them. Also I have m52 bu they are different, with curved small pipe on the end.

Thanks

[someguy2800]

Hello people, need some info to this thread.
1. Are these nozzles in all motors?
2. Are these nozzles in all m50?
3. Where I can find them to remove? I have engine lower part from m50 and can't find them. Also I have m52 bu they are different, with curved small pipe on the end.

Thanks

All the US motor have them, they only sold B25's here. I don't know if the B20 or B23 motors had them. If you take the main bearing shells out of the block you will see them.

[RaimoHal]

B20 uses different pistons(80mm), rods (only vanos engine has 145mm rod, NV is 135mm) and crank(66mm). Cylinders are 4mm smaller and head is made for 80mm block. Valves are smaller too, but everything else is the same that b25 has.

[Nutzy]

How is your motor going with no oil squirters, Perry?

[someguy2800]

How is your motor going with no oil squirters, Perry?

Great. Oil pressure is way up at low rpm, it consumes less oil, and makes less lifter noise. I will plug them in all my motors from now on.

[danielis112]

Great. I found those nozzles. Now most important question: how I remove them, without damaging them?

[someguy2800]

Great. I found those nozzles. Now most important question: how I remove them, without damaging them?

Just push on them. They come out through the main bearing bore. There is nothing holding them in.

[chikinhed]

Upon disasssembly I found three oil squirters had the check valves stuck open after 40k miles. A normal occurance based on my experience. Those little bastards aren’t cheap either.

[danielis112]

Maybe you can add photo with good and bad one? Or just say how to check them? I haven't found good video on youtube

[Nutzy]

Great. Oil pressure is way up at low rpm, it consumes less oil, and makes less lifter noise. I will plug them in all my motors from now on.

Awesome! I wish it wasn't such a PITA to remove them, because I'd be removing mine!

[chikinhed]

Wash them in solvent, blow them dry with an air gun, then try to blow through them in both directions, it should only allow air to pass through in one direction if the ball is seating correctly. If it allows flow in both directions then there is contaminants in the nozzle or has a damaged spring, ball or seat. You could try soaking them in Hoppe’s #9 and then rinsing, drying and testing them again if they don’t work.

[danielis112]

Wash them in solvent, blow them dry with an air gun, then try to blow through them in both directions, it should only allow air to pass through in one direction if the ball is seating correctly. If it allows flow in both directions then there is contaminants in the nozzle or has a damaged spring, ball or seat. You could try soaking them in Hoppe’s #9 and then rinsing, drying and testing them again if they don’t work.

So this is what you mean "the check valves stuck open"? It means you blew through both ends with mouth? is it ok to wash them with 646?

[chikinhed]

I don’t know of the 646 you speak of.

[jayjaya29]

I don’t know of the 646 you speak of.

Solvent 646 toluene 50%, ethanol 15%, butanol 10%, butyl- or amyl acetate 10%, ethyl cellosolve 8%, acetone 7%


Should be fine to wash the nozzles with this solvent.

[chikinhed]

That pretty much covers everything.