would you post up the values you are using for the diff build? i have conflicting information on the side cover, top cap, and ring gear torques, and would like to compare. will post what i have if you like, i didn't want to pollute up the thread with stuff you already know
Sure. I plan to document the diff build when I get started. I have found that too many people are quick to make comments about things for which they are not all that familiar. So many times I see posts that suggest that a person should get a "professional" to do something that a DIYer could really do for themselves. There are a lot of great folks willing to offer helpful suggestions but occasionally I see a sarcastic post from a self-made expert that looks down upon the questions of a newbie (like me ) The biggest difference between the DIY guy and the professional is that the pro gets paid for it. More than once I have had to correct something a "professional" has done. Pretty much anything we want to do to our cars has already been done and documented by someone else! Obviously you do need to have confidence in your skills and ability to learn. Of course, special tools are sometimes needed but I have often fabricated a tool from stuff I already have.
As far as the E30 differential, the pinion bearing removal and carrier bearing removal is all I needed help with and some good ole boys at a truck shop took care of the pinion bearing removal for free. I used a bearing splitter plate and shop press to remove the carrier bearings but if you do not have access to that stuff you probably can find a shop to help you out for free or very cheap. The smaller privately owned places around here are great about that.
I haven't started looking for torque settings yet but if you don't see anything specific there are charts that show the normal torque settings for bolts based on their size and tensile strength ratings. They should work fine for things like the rear cover, carrier-to-diff housing bolts, ring gear mounts, etc. Pre-load is important but not super-critical, as there is normally a range of torque settings to fall within.
The most critical areas as I understand it is the pinion and ring gear mesh pattern which is controlled by the position of the carriers as controlled by shims, and most importantly the pinion gear depth as it interfaces with the ring gear, which is set by how much the crush sleeve on the pinion shaft is "crushed" which is controlled by how much torque is applied to the input shaft yoke bolt. It is a one-way deal, too much crush and you throw away that sleeve and start over.
There are special, very expensive pinion depth-setting tools, which I am not buying, but there is also the good old trial-and-error method, which takes a little longer but works as well or maybe even better because you see the final results. This is where you use a gear dye, like Permatex Prussian Blue, to see exactly how the gears are meshing with each other. That is how the mechanics that worked on the multi-million dollar helicopters I used to pilot did it.
L - R ... Outer pinion bearing followed by crush sleeve (which both remove easily) and inner bearing next to pinion gear (which a'int coming off without help) . That is the one that the truck shop removed for me by using a bearing splitter plate and press. After that I bought my own bearing splitter and removed the carrier bearings.
This thread is about all aspects of building my car so about anything goes. BTW, I don't mean to imply that anyone is an inexperienced newbie. I am saying that I am learning as I go and I am happy to share my experiences with everyone in hopes that I can help someone too, no matter what their skill level!
Last edited by JimBobs 91E30; 12-10-2016 at 11:28 AM.
cool. the one thing i would have done is measure the break values and get a lash pattern as you took the diff apart. keep the spacers and shims with each case you tear in to, as it is the casting differences in the case that determines a lot of which ones you will need and on which side for rebuild.
I actually did most of that. I labeled the parts removed as to position. Since I am replacing all the bearings and crush sleeve the old gear pattern is irrelevant. The correct gear mesh pattern is known and there are charts and pictures which show acceptable patterns which I will duplicate when I install the new parts. I will be using the same carriers that match the case I will be using but the shimming may need to be adjusted for pre-load settings because the bearings will be new. As I understand it the carrier shims not only set the pre-load but move the carrier toward one side or the other, which in turn positions the ring gear accordingly. Gear mesh is not just set by pinion depth. It is a combination of pinion depth and ring gear position as adjusted by the carrier bearings. I am also going from open differential to LSD so that pretty much throws the old carrier settings out the window. I have more research to do before putting it all together but I think I have a good concept of the basics. I appreciate others like you making comments and observations. It certainly helps me in the learning process.
Great build just read through interested to see it at the end
We're in a project fundraising phase now, waiting for funds to be available to continue. As an update - I believe we've decided on the Borg Warner EFR7064 turbo, internally wastegated with a T3 flange, as the turbocharger option. Will probably need a Spal-type auxiliary cooling fan to maximize available space behind the bumper for an intercooler, while preserving stock A/C. Other work to be done includes eventual replacement of the Roadworks Auto cut-and-sewn carpet kit with a higher quality custom piece, and a paint job.
E30 325iC turbo convertible project in progress (updated 12/23/15):
Car fully tuned on completely rebuilt M20 w/forged internals, MLS head gasket
Suspension, brakes, exhaust fully installed
New carpet, custom reupholstered seats installed, door panels painted to match
Custom center console gauge panel installed
Plastic bumper conversion complete, MTech2 front spoiler installed
Rear bumper conversion in progress
Build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...on-engine-swap
Been a while since an update. Saving money for paint, doing some experimenting with differentials. May be swapping an LSD unit into a relatively tall open diff to get a more cruise-friendly ratio.
E30 325iC turbo convertible project in progress (updated 12/23/15):
Car fully tuned on completely rebuilt M20 w/forged internals, MLS head gasket
Suspension, brakes, exhaust fully installed
New carpet, custom reupholstered seats installed, door panels painted to match
Custom center console gauge panel installed
Plastic bumper conversion complete, MTech2 front spoiler installed
Rear bumper conversion in progress
Build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...on-engine-swap
you really need to get a couple more dashes and see if you can turn them around for a few bucks. that work is fantastic.
lmk if you want the torque values i used in the diff project. found conflicting info and wound up talking to a couple of professionals before settling on what i used. i would post them but don't want someone stumbling on this and taking it as bible.
There definitely is a market for refurbished dashes, especially without the map pocket. Cracked dashes go for $200-300 on ebay with crack free examples getting $500+ when they come up.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
I haven't posted anything lately because I have not done much to the car. I am still saving for a quality re-paint. I did add something to the car today that I really like. It is a Sump Armor skid plate made by Red46. (red46.net) I am in no way affiliated with these guys and have never met or communicated with them but I saw their product in another post somewhere so I ordered one. My car is not exactly slammed but it does ride a little lower than stock and the ground clearance for the oil pan is not all that much. This skid plate does add a bit of security.
This thing is one solid, heavy duty piece of stainless steel and it is finished nicely.
Mounting is quite simple and easy. One end of the skid plate mounts to the two steering rack bolts. The other end mounts to the lower radiator frame using five bolts with the nuts already tack welded on a backing plate. You use the holes in the skid plate as a template to drill five 5/16" holes through the radiator support frame.
In the photo above it looks like the skid plate is a bit boxy and hangs down a lot but that is just an optical illusion from the camera angle. The first photo is more representative of the actual shape. It is fairly flat. It is a nice product and I really like it.
Last edited by JimBobs 91E30; 06-14-2017 at 05:19 PM.
Thanks for posting, I got one a few months ago but haven't installed it yet.
A day without a cabrio is like a day without sunshine.
Took me less than an hour to install and I am slow!
Finally about to take another major step in the completion of this project.....of course a project like this is NEVER completed. I have selected a body shop to prep and paint the car and I have taken a few pieces, like the hood, trunk, spoiler, folding top compartment cover, and front and rear bumpers with valances to them for prepping and priming. I am removing as many parts as I can to cut down on labor costs and some of the parts I am removing will be cleaned and refurbished, like the door locks. The windshield will also be removed and a new one installed after the car is painted. I am also in the process of deciding which shade of bright red I want to paint the car.
Use the new Ford deep metallic red!
E30 325iC turbo convertible project in progress (updated 12/23/15):
Car fully tuned on completely rebuilt M20 w/forged internals, MLS head gasket
Suspension, brakes, exhaust fully installed
New carpet, custom reupholstered seats installed, door panels painted to match
Custom center console gauge panel installed
Plastic bumper conversion complete, MTech2 front spoiler installed
Rear bumper conversion in progress
Build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...on-engine-swap
Thinking about a BMW color, like Brilliantrot.
Well, I have been patiently waiting about 8 months now to get the paint project going and it is finally started rolling again. I have taken all the peripheral parts (doors, hood, trunk lid, top hatch, front and rear bumpers, and front fenders) to the shop for prep and paint. Very little body work needed to be done; just a few dings fixed. Everything has been prepped and painted except the front fenders, which should be finished next week.
The next step will be to take the body itself and have it finished. That is supposed to happen in the nxt couple of weeks. I plan to reassemble everything myself, with help from my son, so I can clean and refurb stuff like latches, seals, weatherstripping, etc.
Still a lot to do but getting a lot closer.
Last edited by JimBobs 91E30; 03-23-2018 at 12:48 PM.
That's a really pretty shade of red, can't wait to see it in person. What color code/name is that again?
E30 325iC turbo convertible project in progress (updated 12/23/15):
Car fully tuned on completely rebuilt M20 w/forged internals, MLS head gasket
Suspension, brakes, exhaust fully installed
New carpet, custom reupholstered seats installed, door panels painted to match
Custom center console gauge panel installed
Plastic bumper conversion complete, MTech2 front spoiler installed
Rear bumper conversion in progress
Build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...on-engine-swap
Actually I don't think it has an official name. It is a base toner color and has a number. I will get more info when I pick up the fenders soon. The picture makes it look more orange than it actually is.
Last edited by JimBobs 91E30; 03-27-2018 at 09:41 PM.
I dropped the car off last Friday, after which we took a trip to Williamstown, Ky, to see The Ark Encounter, a life-size rendition of what Noah's Ark might have looked like. Appropriately it rained a good bit during our trip.
They got some more body work done while we were gone.
Almost ready to sand, prime, block, sand and paint.
Today I picked up the front fenders.
It is 90 degrees F outside and I caught Don taking a rare break!
The windshield is now out of the car and the body is almost ready to spray.
The good news for me is the shop is small and there is only room for about three cars at one time and my car will have to be finished soon to make room for more business! It should be ready to spray very soon, hopefully by the end of this week.
cool. looks good
No e30s again.
I bet
No e30s again.
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