So it begins... US 840Ci 6 speed swap

[spikec]

I picked up a Getrag s6s420G out of a 2000 e39 540i. Cleaned it up a bit, and waiting for the seals and some other parts from ECS. The gearbox has a crankshaft sensor on the side, part #7:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=23_0731

On my auto, the crank sensor is at the front of the engine -- do I run the sensor from the gearbox or from the front, and just put a plug bolt in the unused hole?
Thanks!

[olinjohnston]

On my auto, the crank sensor is at the front of the engine -- do I run the sensor from the gearbox or from the front, and just put a plug bolt in the unused hole?

You don't have to do anything, just leave it be. Or you can remove it, but you don't need to hook it up.

[spikec]

Thanks man, appreciate the fast response. I think I'll take it out and replace it with a bolt or some kind of plug.

[olinjohnston]

Thanks man, appreciate the fast response. I think I'll take it out and replace it with a bolt or some kind of plug.

On mine, the sensor was damaged, so I just smoothed out the stub, and kept it as a plug. If you fill it with a bolt instead, just be careful it doesn't stick out and touch the flywheel.

[spikec]

Good call. I was going to machine a plug but this will save me quite a bit of time!

[spikec]

Olin, I don't remember seeing this part on your parts list, #10:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EF52-EUR-12_1993_E31_BMW_840i&diagId=21_0056#21521117729

Did you end up using this tank or if not how'd you plumb it? Looks like the mounting bracket is NLA.

Thanks.

[olinjohnston]

Olin, I don't remember seeing this part on your parts list, #10:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EF52-EUR-12_1993_E31_BMW_840i&diagId=21_0056#21521117729

Did you end up using this tank or if not how'd you plumb it? Looks like the mounting bracket is NLA.

Thanks.

That reservoir and bracket are not used. you simply connect the hose from the master cylinder to the back of your existing brake fluid reservoir. The barbed end is already there. You just snip the end off.

The procedure was discussed in this write up.

[spikec]

Yeah I just re-read it, I think I pulled up a different diagram than the one I was originally using. Looks like they had two versions of the clutch hydraulics for the euro 840.

Decided to go with an OEM driveshaft and selector rod from Schmeidmann, both shipped for $1138. All the drive shaft places I called required that I send in the old one. I didn't want to wait and wanted to have all parts here before I begin. Not a bad deal, only $704 for the driveshaft.

[olinjohnston]

Yeah I just re-read it, I think I pulled up a different diagram than the one I was originally using. Looks like they had two versions of the clutch hydraulics for the euro 840. Decided to go with an OEM driveshaft and selector rod from Schmeidmann, both shipped for $1138. All the drive shaft places I called required that I send in the old one. I didn't want to wait and wanted to have all parts here before I begin. Not a bad deal, only $704 for the driveshaft.

Totally worth it. It should come with everything ready to go in. You won't even have to grease the flange on the back. Better yet, you'll still have the stock one to sell/modify for someone else.

[spikec]

Haha, I'm with you - nothing beats turnkey solutions! My 840 has been up on blocks for a couple of months. It all started with a rear suspension rebuild, which led to a front suspension rebuild, new exhaust, new wheels, bearings, hubs and tires, door handle and seat cable repairs, homelink garage door entry and new keyless entry and a whole bunch of other stuff. And then hey, while I have it up on blocks, why not do the 6sp swap? It was you Olin that got me motivated when you did that 3.15LSD conversion, which I did a few years ago. 8's are fun to work on, I'm having a blast other than constantly waiting for parts to come in. When I'm done it'll be even better driving it.

[spikec]

I'm getting ready to tackle removing the auto trans. When I go to remove the lines from the trans-cooler like in your pic, should I expect a wave of fluid to come out? Also maybe I'm not getting your pic, but since you left the trans-cooler in, once you remove the lines don't the holes need to be plugged somehow?

Thanks!

[olinjohnston]

I'm getting ready to tackle removing the auto trans. When I go to remove the lines from the trans-cooler like in your pic, should I expect a wave of fluid to come out? Also maybe I'm not getting your pic, but since you left the trans-cooler in, once you remove the lines don't the holes need to be plugged somehow? Thanks!

Yeah it will drain out so be ready. I didn't bother with plugging the holes since I'll be ripping it out once I replace the main radiator at some point.

[spikec]

Thanks Olin!

[spikec]

Got the lines pulled today along with all the peripheral stuff on the tranny. I put a bucket under each end which caught most of the fluid...then proceeded to knock one of the buckets over :-)

Started on the bell housing bolts - man are they a bitch or what! Will pick it up on Tuesday when I get back. For anyone considering this, it's really not that hard so far - thanks to this and Terminator's thread!

[Braymond141]

Got the lines pulled today along with all the peripheral stuff on the tranny. I put a bucket under each end which caught most of the fluid...then proceeded to knock one of the buckets over :-)

Started on the bell housing bolts - man are they a bitch or what! Will pick it up on Tuesday when I get back. For anyone considering this, it's really not that hard so far - thanks to this and Terminator's thread!

Make sure you're using a good sized breaker bar. 1/2" sockets and extensions if you can fit it. 3/8, small ratchets, and lower end tools will absorb all your effort to break the bolts loose. High quality (or correctly sized) tools really make this job so much easier.

I still think this project was the most fun Olin and I have done together. I agree, not hard at all!

[spikec]

Part of the fun and challenge is figuring out how to get that breaker bar up and inside with very little clearance. As my Dad used to say, "you just have to be smarter than your tools" :-)

[Prometheus]

Wondering what pedal assembly you ended up cannibalizing, to get your clutch/ brake assembly. You stated that you were going to either use an E34 or E39 assembly.

Which assembly did you end up going with, that allowed you to use your existing E31 mounting bracket?

[olinjohnston]

Wondering what pedal assembly you ended up cannibalizing, to get your clutch/ brake assembly. You stated that you were going to either use an E34 or E39 assembly.

Which assembly did you end up going with, that allowed you to use your existing E31 mounting bracket?

E39 pedals are not compatible. I did not bother even unbolting the bracket. I just took the long bolt out of the brake pedal attachment, and added the smaller brake pedal, and the clutch pedal on the end. The pedals are the same on the E31, E32, and E34 across all models. I just snagged the two pedals from a junked E34 525i... There is no need to mess with the bracket or take anything out.

[bdiefAZ]

I need to re read the procedure for manual swap. This sounds like a great upgrade!

Thanks for all of the details Olin.

[spikec]

Quick update on the world's longest 6sp swap. Finally got the auto tranny out - a bit of a PITA to get to all the bolts but obviously doable. For me the biggest pain was the torque converter. It's tough to get a socket seated on the bolt heads but a swivel did the trick. As Olin said, these are really heavy, best to have a buddy with you when you do this. I'll attack the RMS, new flywheel, clutch and install the 6sp tranny next week when I get back from my trip!
IMG_4814.JPGIMG_4815.JPG

[maxxfish]

Can anyone share the approximate total cost of the parts for this swap? There's a car for sale that I'm interested in that already has this done, just wondering if it's worth the premium asking price. I have a lift, so I wouldn't be paying for labor. Thanks, Max

[spikec]

I'm at about $5k for all parts. Sorry, can't give you an exact figure as I've spent a bunch of $$ on other repairs at the same time and have no way to easily breakdown my receipts from ECS. Here are the biggies:

Getrag 420G - $400 used (local junk yard)
Driveshaft and Selector rod - $1044 (Schmeidmann)
All other parts on Olin's list - about $3500 (ECS)

Hope this helps!

[spikec]

Olin, you mentioned your heat insulation was all messed up - I assume it's this part?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...15#51481970164

Since they're no longer made, has anyone found a suitable replacement for this? Mine's pretty beat up, the front part was severed from the rest.

[olinjohnston]

I just trimmed back the mangled parts and left the okay parts attached.

[DanB]

If yours is too far gone spikec I bet Dynamat or similar material would work well.

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Dynam...ywords=dynamat

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Insulat...ound+deadening