So it begins... US 840Ci 6 speed swap

[Timm]

A manual gearbox full of oil will probably last for tens of years just hiding in a corner!

[olinjohnston]

THE PARTS LIST

This is everything I have now.


Transmission:
Getrag S6S 420G (E39 540i M.Y. 2000)
Guide tube 23111222722
Input shaft seal 23121228493
Selector seal 23127501582
Output shaft seal 23121222769
Reverse switch 23147524811 (found connector and made wiring)
Cross member 23701092201
Rubber mounting (2) 23701141614
Hex nut with plate (2) 22316760944
Hex bolt with washer (4) 22326760945
Hex nut (2) 07119904032
Washer (2) 07119900052
2 liters Pentosin MTF2 (1.7L fill)

Drive shaft:
Drive shaft 26101227880 (new flex disc pre-installed from factory)

Clutch/Flywheel:
Set of clutch parts 21217528209 (E39 240mm)
Twin-mass flywheel (with bolts) 21201223581 (E39 240mm)
Clutch bolts (6) 07119906045 (E39)
Clutch fork 21511204229
Pivot point 21511223328
Ball bearing (flywheel) 11211720310
Optional: Flywheel bolt tool 83300491018 (E39)

Clutch Hydraulics:
Input cylinder 21521155425
Hex bolt (2) 07119915031
Fit bolt 21521151447
Self-locking hex nut (2) 07129906196
Connector 21521151697
Hose 21521163714
Grommet 21521156082
Pipe 21521162357
Bow 37131133421
Bracket 37131133420
Absorbing piece 21521159564
Output cylinder 21526775924 (E39)
Pipe (NLA) 21521159392 or Pipe 21526751466 (E39)
Holder 21521164303
Grommet 21521164603
Locking Nut (2) 07129906196

Shifter:
Shift lever 25117527246
Shifting arm 25111222366
Bearing (shift lever) 25111220600
Selector rod 25111222367
Plastic washers (4) 25111220439
Securing clip (4) 25117571899
Gearshift rod joint 25117526415
Dowel pin 23411466134
Tension bush 25111203682
Plastic washer 25111434194
Shift arm bearing 25111222652
Rubber boot 25111434181
Bolt 25111222375
Bush bearing oval (2) 25117507695
Leather boot walk-nappa 25111221823

Pedals:
Pedal bracket (if using clutch switch bracket) 35111159647
Clutch pedal 35311155691
Rubber pad (clutch) 35211108634
Brake pedal 35211155686
Rubber pad (brake) 35211160422
Retainer spring (if using as clutch return spring) 35211158074
Bushing (2) 35211158290
Spacer sleeve 35211150346
Hex bolt 07119900237
Clutch switch 61318360421
Clutch switch bracket 35111159682

Exhaust mounting:
Cross member 18321702668
Rubber mounting (2) 18301723518
Exhaust support (2) 18311723986

[rogbmw]

Can't wait to see the results!

[thelongeride]

Good luck with the swap. I did a 850 6 speed swap. It was fairly straight forward. I suspect this will be similar. I did not use the clutch retainer spring. The clutch was easy to reverse bleed, but difficult to bleed the conventional way.

[olinjohnston]

UPDATE:

I had the day off today, and the 8 now has three pedals!

I decided to use the existing pedal bracket, which worked fine. The clutch return spring is fitted just like the brake return spring, and looks/works well. The pedal bracket is already drilled for those holes. I am forgoing the clutch switch bracket (for cruise cutoff) at this time, but I may add the bracket later when I end up ripping out the steering column to replace something unrelated that snapped in the tilt mechanism.

After some finagling of the parts in some very uncomfortable positions, the new brake pedal and clutch pedal went in fine. The only issue is that I had to remove the brake light switch from the pedal bracket, and now it won't stay in. So it looks like I have to replace that now...

[rjbaren]

That brake switch is expensive from the dealer. You have to pull out the center in order to squeeze the two prongs on the collar to remove the switch. One you get it, it's a piece of cake. Before that, it's a frustrating PITA. It's an uncomfortable position to try to be removing the switch and either you bend the metal piece, break the switch, or both. When you see how the new one works you'll say, gosh that was easy.

[TheButcher]

UPDATE:

The clutch return spring is fitted just like the brake return spring, and looks/works well.
I am forgoing the clutch switch bracket (for cruise cutoff) at this time, but I may add the bracket later when I end up ripping out the steering column to replace something unrelated that snapped in the tilt mechanism.

I removed the clutch return spring because the way it is designed, the clutch lever cams up and away and it does not allow shifting quickly. It does not snap back quickly enough. Without the spring is much better and the mast cylinder provides much quicker return, but the pedal only returns 95% of the way back to rest.

Some white piece that acted as a spacer snapped in my steering column and I could move the whole thing up and down a good 3 inches or more. After many hours of cursing and whining, I got the steering column out and stripped it down as much as I could. However, you cannot replace the spacer as the whole column is one unit. You can kind of remove things on the column when you get it out, but it would require pressing metal bushings out and drilling. I just stacked a bunch of washers on the electric motor adjuster bolt and that solved the issue. If you get the right amount you won't have any slop. Mine slops a tiny tiny bit when it reverts to the fully up position but sets in place for good if you pull it down just a tiny bit. Its good enough for me not to remove the whole thing again.

That brake switch is expensive from the dealer. You have to pull out the center in order to squeeze the two prongs on the collar to remove the switch. One you get it, it's a piece of cake. Before that, it's a frustrating PITA. It's an uncomfortable position to try to be removing the switch and either you bend the metal piece, break the switch, or both. When you see how the new one works you'll say, gosh that was easy.

I broke mine not realizing the center had to be pulled out. I figured that out after I snapped a prong..... I just bought one from an aftermarket manufacturer for $15 bucks and it works great.

[olinjohnston]

4/13/15 UPDATE:

Replaced the brake light switch that I broke... There was a used one on eBay for $15 from an 840Ci actually, so I snagged it with free shipping.

Also wanted to do some service on the 6-speed gearbox while it was still out. Today I did the input shaft seal and the selector shaft seal. Also I mounted the new shift knuckle on the selector shaft:



The input seal is designed with two holes in the metal ring so that it can be pulled out with a "special tool" screwed into the rubber. I thought I would be smart and pull it out with a sheet metal screw and pliers, but that thing is rigid, and very tightly in there, so I mangled it. Though I was very careful not to scratch the input shaft or the transmission, the seal had to be annihilated to come out:





I cleaned out the area well and prepared it with some MTF for the new seal.

The selector shaft seal was a little easier. First I removed the E39 knuckle. To do this you just pry back the retaining ring, and tap out the pin that goes down the middle. The E39 one is shaped a bit differently:



Once it is off and cleaned up a bit, you can start picking the seal out. If you tap one side in, the other comes out enough to get under it with a screwdriver without scratching anything:





A 12pt. 5/8" deep socket works perfect fit over the selector and tap in the seal evenly:



Greased the joint, and installed the proper selector part: (It came with a new insulating piece inside, so I have an extra to return)






I will be heading to a friend's place for the heavy work soon, so I needed to see how I was going to bring the boxed-up drive shaft in the E31!





I know most of you guys find the ski bag useless, but it is perfect for this kind of stuff. I have carried several exhausts using it as well. lol

[toomanyparts]

Super cool Olin - I am following this thread with anticipation. Keep the updates coming.

I also find the ski boot great for a lot of packages. Even took an entire exhaust around with it.

4/13/15 UPDATE:

Replaced the brake light switch that I broke... There was a used one on eBay for $15 from an 840Ci actually, so I snagged it with free shipping.

Also wanted to do some service on the 6-speed gearbox while it was still out. Today I did the input shaft seal and the selector shaft seal. Also I mounted the new shift knuckle on the selector shaft:



The input seal is designed with two holes in the metal ring so that it can be pulled out with a "special tool" screwed into the rubber. I thought I would be smart and pull it out with a sheet metal screw and pliers, but that thing is rigid, and very tightly in there, so I mangled it. Though I was very careful not to scratch the input shaft or the transmission, the seal had to be annihilated to come out:





I cleaned out the area well and prepared it with some MTF for the new seal.

The selector shaft seal was a little easier. First I removed the E39 knuckle. To do this you just pry back the retaining ring, and tap out the pin that goes down the middle. The E39 one is shaped a bit differently:



Once it is off and cleaned up a bit, you can start picking the seal out. If you tap one side in, the other comes out enough to get under it with a screwdriver without scratching anything:





A 12pt. 5/8" deep socket works perfect fit over the selector and tap in the seal evenly:



Greased the joint, and installed the proper selector part: (It came with a new insulating piece inside, so I have an extra to return)






I will be heading to a friend's place for the heavy work soon, so I needed to see how I was going to bring the boxed-up drive shaft in the E31!





I know most of you guys find the ski bag useless, but it is perfect for this kind of stuff. I have carried several exhausts using it as well. lol

[Imndeep]

Well, you'll be the second guy I know rolling with a manual 840. Just met a guy at Wuffer's this past weekend at the Wrenchfest with a clean 6 speed conversion. He new to the 8er experience I think. Nice guy. Not sure if he's on this forum yet.

[olinjohnston]

4/29/15 UPDATE:

THE SWAP IS DONE

Here are some pics of the process...


The whole load of parts packed up and ready to drive up to my friend's place with room to work:




Once raised on jack stands, we removed the entire exhaust system including the cats, o2 sensors, and associated bracketing, heat shields etc:




Exhaust mounts on the 5HP30 auto:




These are the lines that run from the 5HP30 to the trans cooler mounted between the radiator and the AC condenser:




I still have to remove the little heat exchanger for it, but since it's sandwiched, I will just take it out once I replace the radiator. This setup was VERY different from Terminator's thread on 8er.org. I guess the European trans cooler works totally different. Next was the removal of the old drive shaft and some under body cleaning...

Inside the car, the entire center console, switches, radio, OBC, and climate control must be removed. On the gear selector mechanism, the selector cable must be unhooked, and 3 mounting bolts unscrewed:




On my car, I had a bowden cable that went from the gear selector to the ignition lock, so that the key could not be removed unless the car was in Park. This detail was also a total surprise that had to be overcome simply by removing the cable, cutting the cable off so that the rod was permanently extended, and the stub of it reinstalled under the steering wheel behind the lock cylinder:




In order to allow access to the transmission mounting bolts on the bell housing, you have to remove the cabin air filter housing which is only held on with a few screws.

With the transmission wiring harness and oxygen sensor wiring pulled out of the way, the selector cable removed, and the drive shaft off, the transmission is clear to be lowered out:




Without the exhaust and stuff all around it, the 5HP30 hangs pretty low on the car:




Top bolts easily accessible from engine bay without the cabin filter housing in place:




Once the engine-side trans bolts and the rear mount bolts are loosened, the transmission can be pulled off the motor and lowered from the car. The torque converter spewed fluid and the thing had to be delicately removed due to its ridiculous size and weight. We used a low floor jack under a small dolly so the transmission could be backed off the motor slowly and then lowered down to the floor. Even with tall jack stands, it barely fit coming out from underneath the car. I expected it to be heavier than the 6-speed manual gearbox, but it was insanely heavy and big.

Note the size difference compared to the S6S420G in the background:




Under the car, I was happy to see the sheet metal bracket for the newer style shifter arm bearing (top center) not present on some early cars:




Bunch of automatic parts removed:




With the automatic flywheel unbolted from the engine, this is what the back side of the M60 looks like:



If your rear main seal has not been replaced, now would be a great time to do it.


Pilot bearing installed:




Dual-mass flywheel installed:




Clutch disc in place:



Note: If using an E39 540i clutch and flywheel, this alignment tool is not the correct one. This tool only works with the earlier design without significant modification.


Pressure plate installed:




Running the clutch hydraulics and installing the rubber grommets that go through the sheet metal of the firewall was kind of a bitch, especially since I was not removing the original pedal carrier assembly like most manual-swappers tend to do. Since this car had no electronic provision for the clutch switch anyway, I did not care that much about lacking the very small metal opening for the bolt that holds the switch bracket in place. This is something I may add later, but it is a low priority.

The round upper hole is where the feed hose comes from the brake fluid reservoir into the cabin to attach to the master cylinder, and the oblong hole is where the clutch master cylinder pokes through the firewall at an angle with the slave cylinder line on the end of it.

Pedals fully installed:




As a detail freak, the automatic's kick-down switch under the accelerator also had to go:



After:




This is where the hydraulic feed-tube comes up to be attached to the brake fluid reservoir. The barbed connection point can just be snipped off after the fluid is removed:




On the new transmission, a brand new pivot point, clutch fork, and guide tube were installed, as well as the throwout bearing from the clutch kit. You could also mount the slave cylinder onto the transmission while it is off the car.

6-speed transmission ready to go in:




With the rear mount in place, the o2 sensor bracket fits onto it similarly to how it did on the auto:




Shift linkage installed, along with the reverse light switch wiring going through the hole that the auto trans selector cable previously occupied:




The insulation material covering the transmission tunnel was in absolutely terrible condition. If I had known, I would have come up with something prior to address it, so it had to be cut back somewhat because the rearward part was so brittle. Inside the car, the console was test-fit with the shift knob temporarily installed to adjust the selector rod underneath. Once it feels like it was where it should be, the rubber boot was installed into the circular opening on the body.

Allowing the car to start without the automatic gearbox was actually the easiest part of this job. On my early-build 840, the K1 starter relay in the main fuse box can either be bypassed with a jumper wire, or simply by replacing it with this bright yellow "fake relay" jumper I bought from BMW for a few bucks. (Top row, third from left) No wiring necessary whatsoever:




To make the reverse lights work, the wires are on the harness that plugged into the gear selector mechanism:




However, I have a feeling there is another harness that had the exact same two colored wires on it that could have simply been plugged in. I might investigate this further at a later time. Since I don't believe in cutting any wires in the car, my friend made me some nice pin connectors from a spare BMW wiring harness:




And they plug right in from the reverse light switch:




Next is getting rid of the transmission fail-safe program warning on the OBC. This is simply done by grounding the gray/brown wire on the large white connector. Using a quick-connect, and a nice ground strap wire, we used one of the old automatic gear selector mounting bolts:




Exhaust back on with new brackets and o2 sensors installed:




Filled the new transmission with fresh fluid, bled the clutch (long process) and drove right out...

Did some cleaning of the engine area and interior, and I am very happy with what we were able to accomplish over just two days of work.

[sleepy81]

Great write-up Olin. Thanks for the details & photos. Must be great to have this installation run so smoothly after such a wait.

[Timm]

Excellent post, great work and photography!

[sofiabghome]

Hi Olin,

Great update and clean installation.

I do wander why you did not take the Gear box to a transmission shop to open and reseal it !!!

Every E46M3/E39M5 I have work with 90k miles+ on the clock they always establish leaks from body casting bolts on the bottom.

I hope you are my exemption pal because its a shame all that labor on the ground and a on the next engine oil change you see some sweat spot/s from the bottom of the tranny....

Regards
Anri

[olinjohnston]

Hi Olin, Great update and clean installation. I do wander why you did not take the Gear box to a transmission shop to open and reseal it !!!

I did replace the radial seals on it, but there was no sign of leaks from any place on it.

[DanB]

[sofiabghome]

I did replace the radial seals on it, but there was no sign of leaks from any place on it.

Olin,

10years...old transmission every day is gifted till start establishing a sweat spot.

The casting/body is metal to metal with the Red Paste used from BMW (no gasket there).

Personally I when done several swaps S54 E30 M3 or E39 M5 clutch job and the tranny is out and I dont care if it leak or not I always open and reseal.....10+years Old paste the days are counting till start to leak.

Anyway as you said no leaks so far and hoping to stay that way down the road

Its a lot of fun to have the G420 apart...

Enjoy

Regards
Anri

[Terminator77]

Great work and write up Olin !!
Helps other who plan to do "THE SWAP"

[Braymond141]

Hi Olin,

Great update and clean installation.

I do wander why you did not take the Gear box to a transmission shop to open and reseal it !!!

Every E46M3/E39M5 I have work with 90k miles+ on the clock they always establish leaks from body casting bolts on the bottom.

I hope you are my exemption pal because its a shame all that labor on the ground and a on the next engine oil change you see some sweat spot/s from the bottom of the tranny....

Regards
Anri

I've never seen any of them leak at the seams and I've owned numerous E46 M3, 540i/6, M5s and my 420G E36 M3. One M5 is sitting at 173,000 miles. That is news to me.


Glad we finally got the swap all done Olin. Went a lot easier than I expected. Should note the hardest part is those stupid firewall clutch master grommets, my arms still hurt from that

[toomanyparts]

Awesome job Olin and great write-up. I know all of us 5 speed auto guys are jealous.

[Jayccel]

Very impressive Olin; jelly indeed.

Looks "natural" with that manual in there

[LouM]

The pros make it look easy. Great write up Olin.

LouM...

[blanz]

Sa weet!
Beautiful setup. Great attention to detail.
A+

[8eights]

As mentioned, Great write up Olin!

[TedBobo]

Kudos to team "Olin & Braymond141"!