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Thread: A legend joins the family

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    5,106
    My Cars
    72 + 75 2002's
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    35
    My Cars
    69'02, 74'02, 81'320is
    Wow quite the history with this car! Looks like a sweet build in the process! Iím partial to Colorado orange 02ís. Hope to see your car at one of the Bay Area 02 events sooner or later!

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    1,750
    My Cars
    911 turbo tincan
    crazy story pip
    07' Arctic Silver 911 Turbo

    71' Agave Green 2002

    10' Gray Landcruiser 200 series

    10' White Landcruiser Prado 150 series

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
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    5,106
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    72 + 75 2002's
    Quote Originally Posted by coastalcrush View Post
    Wow quite the history with this car! Looks like a sweet build in the process! I’m partial to Colorado orange 02’s. Hope to see your car at one of the Bay Area 02 events sooner or later!
    Thanks! Hoping sometime before the end of 2019, in the meantime I found a 75 to enjoy driving so I'll definitely be out at the next event. I do really love the Colorado, and I have to beat people off constantly because everyone wants to buy the thing lol. But I've fought way too hard to give her up any time soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by bmw_e30 View Post
    crazy story pip
    Tell me about it! Sometimes it seems unbelievable haha.
    Last edited by Spyke; 02-19-2019 at 09:53 AM.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    5,106
    My Cars
    72 + 75 2002's


    Last edited by Spyke; 01-01-2019 at 04:37 PM.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Freeport, New York
    Posts
    60
    My Cars
    71 2002, 76 2002,96 328i
    "...But I've fought way too hard to giver her up any time soon..."

    Understatement of the year!

    Considering the saga, this may be superfluous but don't give up and, seeing it through to the finish will be that much sweeter. My own project has been stalled for about two years now but you have given me inspiration. Thank you!

    Regards, Maurice.

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    5,106
    My Cars
    72 + 75 2002's
    Finished rebuilding the cushion diaphragms on the Recaro's I picked up. They got a good cleaning (more cleaning to come) and went into the car with some Aardvark brackets.











    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    5,106
    My Cars
    72 + 75 2002's
    Decided on different wheels. Since this will now be my "wild" car I don't want to be ruining rare-ish period correct wheels, just in case. So I picked up a set of Tire Rack's private label wheels that have just about the perfect measurements for the 2002.



    The fuel system is all set and ready to go in as soon as it gets nicer outside. For now the car is still sealed up.

    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    2002 E46 325 xit
    Love that color, great story...

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    5,106
    My Cars
    72 + 75 2002's
    For Luna (the blue '75)

    Onto more pretty-fication.






    New independent ground for the turn signals






    New dual filament bulb holders retrofitted into US bases










    And because I'm dumb I put new Hella's on (instead of Cibie's or something nicer). They're okay, I don't do much night driving with this car.





    Signals were sporadic at best and I needed to change the flasher relay anyways for the LED's

















    Dash indicator still doesn't work no matter what I do, but at least I have working signals all around.






    Don't mind this, just seating deleting. The car is too small and too underpowered to have more than two people in it and it looks so much more tidy.






    Might as well build my own center console too.

    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
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    My Cars
    72 + 75 2002's
    SeeDee is back on the ground and looking great. Engine is getting closer to be beamed up into the engine bay. Wiring is about half done, and I have a LINK G4+ loaded with an ITB start up map ready to go. Fuel system is all set besides the final line leading up to the fuel rail. (I guessed too short on it and have to reorder a length of the -6AN to run that).







    The stock coolant inlet for the BEAMs has a really strange angle to it, so I found a custom fabricated one from JSP that shoots it straight to the radiator.



    New thermostat, and it has an awesome little bleed hole, just like the e36 SHOULD HAVE HAD if BMW gave a shit about us at all lol.



    So much nicer





    And here she rests

    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    SF Bay, CA
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    My Cars
    72 + 75 2002's
    Luna got new stick on trim



    - - - Updated - - -

    Engine wiring is done, engine to body wiring labeled in prep for insertion into the chassis




    New 3 pin water temp sensor for the Beams




    Suitable crush washers that fit the new 3 pin sensor




    Heater hard line that will need to be modified
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  13. #113
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    97
    My Cars
    '89 325iX, '94 530iT
    I just stumbled upon this thread randomly through a post you made on a thread from 2013 about E30 radio wiring.

    It's been a while since I've found a build thread this satisfying. Keep up the good work, man.

  14. #114
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
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    5,106
    My Cars
    72 + 75 2002's
    Thanks dude. I do need to get back on it... been kinda distracted building the 75 at the same time, and I've gotten a bit deep into that car too lol.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  15. #115
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    97
    My Cars
    '89 325iX, '94 530iT
    That's always how it goes. I have 2-3 E30 builds and at least 1 part out happening simultaneously at all times. Each requires so much more attention than you anticipate.

  16. #116
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
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    72 + 75 2002's
    More work on the M42 swap for Luna

    Battery (smaller AGM) has been tucked under the rear seat delete.


    e30 M42 radiator modified for use in a late model 2002. As some of you know, the extra bracing on the late models means your radiator cap fouls on the underside of the hood, on the driver's side. So off we go! First, chop the expansion tank drain off, flush.


    The bottom area around this hole is then melted with a torch. Using a large metal coin from the other side for support, we then melt the filler ABS into the hole in the end tank shell (where that drain was). I repeated the melting and drying process a few times to make sure the old and new plastic have bonded really well, and there's no holes. Here it is after a few cycles and it's all nice and smooth. I tested that this holds water overnight.


    Cut mesh for reinforcing the interior plastic welding. Test fit and trim multiple times. I lightly (so that we don't undo our work on the other side) melted the inside of the end tank shell so that the mesh could be pressed into place. Make sure all the ports are unobstructed, and melt a lot of ABS filler in. We want to completely cover the stainless steel mesh and create a new "floor" that's thick and well bonded.


    On the passenger side, nothing really needs to be done. However I did shave the peg and rubber pad for just a bit more clearance.


    I took this opportunity to replace the input seal, output seal, and selector rod seal on the Getrag 240 transmission. Seems like lots of people struggle with this, but it's a pretty easy job if you've got some basic tools around.

    For the input seal, you unbolt the shaft sleeve first. On my particular Getrag 240, the input shaft sleeve was stuck in place very well and wouldn't move freely once unbolted. Take a MAP gas torch on low, and warm up the base of the sleeve. I used a wood hammer handle and dead blow to knock around the base, and then used just the dead blow itself inside the bell housing. With small strikes to slowly rotate the base, the seal finally broke after a minute of small movements. There's a nice groove you can use as a pry point to get the old seal out. I carefully used a long flat blade screw driver, but you need to be cautious here as to not gouge the seat where the seal goes.


    Before putting the new seal in, wrap the input shaft splines with some thick plastic. A ziploc freezer bag works great. I installed the sleeve loose, then hand tightened the small bolts in star pattern, and then went back around and torqued in star pattern as well. Sealed back up with the addition of some Elring Curil. I also drilled out the pivot point to accept one of the nice brass pivots.

    From the back


    The output seal was definitely the easiest, but that's only because the trans is outside of the car. Pry out the locking ring. If you are gentle, you can reuse this. Then a deep thin walled 30 will remove the nut, the IE flange holding tool makes this a piece of cake.


    Pry out the seal (this one can be removed a few different ways) then clean the surfaces and start to set the new one in place. I had an aftermarket aluminum e36 rear spring perch that worked PERFECTLY for driving in the rear output shaft seal in.



    I just tapped around the circumference slowly with a dead blow hammer.


    I again used a tiny bit of Curil on the outside edge of the seal. Then some Curil to seal the output shaft splines and a bit of ATF on the sealing surface flange, used the deep 30mm to bump the flange in far enough for the nut to capture, then torqued into its final resting place. Don't forget the locking plate to finish this off!


    The selector rod joint is easily the most scary to do. There's just so little space between the sealing surface and the selector rod, and the seal is pretty stout. I found the absolute best way to go was this: At the top edge, use a tiny little flat head with the square edges sanded down and softened, to minimize the amount of damage it can do. Lightly tap it straight in, then once it starts deforming the seal's metal edge, start angling down. The seal should be crushing in and down.


    At the opposite side of it (180 degrees) Stab in a pick/pointed punch. You want to do this straight into the middle of the seal (not the edge like the other side). Once you've punctured through, you can swivel your pick to start prying outwards from the trans.


    Alternate the first and second steps here and it should come out with only two reps. Not much room to clean, but do your best, and then use a deep 15mm socket to drive in your new seal.
    Last edited by Spyke; 05-26-2020 at 04:10 PM.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    5,106
    My Cars
    72 + 75 2002's
    Aasco flywheel works with stock everything, so I went with that since I already had it on hand and it's not overly lightweight. Everything came together nicely




    Engine is complete as a unit and united with the subframe. Car lifted up super high, you need about 33" of clearance not including whatever you're using to slide it under the car. I used low profile jacks to pivot it into place. Then grabbed the engine from the top using an engine crane, and pulled it up into place so I could mate the subframe to the body.










    I pulled out the stock return line and got rid of the plastic fuel feed running through the cabin. I used new 5/16" stainless to bend up two new lines for both feed and return. These I flared on both ends, and I very guiltily made a new hole for the return hose to pass through. Even though I am using nice reinforced and jacketed line, I lined the new hole with some thick heater hose to protect the return line. The unused return is capped using the ol' bolt in a piece of hose trick. The new return flows through the e30 m42 fuel pump to avoid a potentially dangerous static charge build up.






    After mocking up several times and then coming to realize that I could not access the pin that links the selector rod and selector joint together, I gave up. Instead of shortening the e21 platform, I chopped it down to basically just the cup and immediate surrounding area. Using 3 of the e30 airbox bushings, and cutting down the e21 foam (it has a metal core) I made essentially a mostly-rigid chassis mount. This eliminated a bunch of extra parts and chances for play, and I generally like a more positive feeling shifter assembly anyways.









    Since I can't use the stock airbox, obviously we have to go aftermarket. I went with the KA Motors intake kit, as it seems nice enough and comes with an AFM adapter. (I have recently learned the intake is really just a generic piece you can online anywhere for pretty cheap.) While the intake is okay, the adapter is quite the opposite. The AFM adapter is metal and the hole pattern is close enough, but the mating flange was fairly warped. It took about 20 minutes of sanding by hand (with 3 steps of grit) on my work bench to get it flat enough for me to be happy. The "gasket" is made out of a hard, thick, non-malliable material that seems like Polystyrene or something similar. Also WILDLY warped, and since it's completely non-conforming it's essentially useless as a gasket. Ended up sanding this flat enough to use as well, but used some gasket maker on both sides of it.





    AFM coupled with Jakeb's bracket. The bracket was pretty rough, and also needed a lot of sanding to not be notably hazardous to soft hands.


    Last edited by Spyke; 06-21-2020 at 08:46 PM.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

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