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Thread: A legend joins the family

  1. #101
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    Boise idaho
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    Too many
    Wow quite the history with this car! Looks like a sweet build in the process! I’m partial to Colorado orange 02’s. Hope to see your car at one of the Bay Area 02 events sooner or later!

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    Los Angeles, CA
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    911 turbo tincan
    crazy story pip
    07' Arctic Silver 911 Turbo

    71' Agave Green 2002

    10' Gray Landcruiser 200 series

    10' White Landcruiser Prado 150 series

  3. #103
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    72 + 75 2002's
    Quote Originally Posted by coastalcrush View Post
    Wow quite the history with this car! Looks like a sweet build in the process! I’m partial to Colorado orange 02’s. Hope to see your car at one of the Bay Area 02 events sooner or later!
    Thanks! Hoping sometime before the end of 2019, in the meantime I found a 75 to enjoy driving so I'll definitely be out at the next event. I do really love the Colorado, and I have to beat people off constantly because everyone wants to buy the thing lol. But I've fought way too hard to give her up any time soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by bmw_e30 View Post
    crazy story pip
    Tell me about it! Sometimes it seems unbelievable haha.
    Last edited by Spyke; 02-19-2019 at 09:53 AM.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  4. #104
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    72 + 75 2002's


    Last edited by Spyke; 01-01-2019 at 04:37 PM.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Freeport, New York
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    61
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    71 2002, 76 2002,96 328i
    "...But I've fought way too hard to giver her up any time soon..."

    Understatement of the year!

    Considering the saga, this may be superfluous but don't give up and, seeing it through to the finish will be that much sweeter. My own project has been stalled for about two years now but you have given me inspiration. Thank you!

    Regards, Maurice.

  6. #106
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    Nov 2008
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    72 + 75 2002's
    Finished rebuilding the cushion diaphragms on the Recaro's I picked up. They got a good cleaning (more cleaning to come) and went into the car with some Aardvark brackets.











    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  7. #107
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    Nov 2008
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    Decided on different wheels. Since this will now be my "wild" car I don't want to be ruining rare-ish period correct wheels, just in case. So I picked up a set of Tire Rack's private label wheels that have just about the perfect measurements for the 2002.



    The fuel system is all set and ready to go in as soon as it gets nicer outside. For now the car is still sealed up.

    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Atlanta
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    17
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    2002 E46 325 xit
    Love that color, great story...

  9. #109
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    For Luna (the blue '75)

    Onto more pretty-fication.






    New independent ground for the turn signals






    New dual filament bulb holders retrofitted into US bases










    And because I'm dumb I put new Hella's on (instead of Cibie's or something nicer). They're okay, I don't do much night driving with this car.





    Signals were sporadic at best and I needed to change the flasher relay anyways for the LED's

















    Dash indicator still doesn't work no matter what I do, but at least I have working signals all around.






    Don't mind this, just seating deleting. The car is too small and too underpowered to have more than two people in it and it looks so much more tidy.






    Might as well build my own center console too.

    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  10. #110
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    SeeDee is back on the ground and looking great. Engine is getting closer to be beamed up into the engine bay. Wiring is about half done, and I have a LINK G4+ loaded with an ITB start up map ready to go. Fuel system is all set besides the final line leading up to the fuel rail. (I guessed too short on it and have to reorder a length of the -6AN to run that).







    The stock coolant inlet for the BEAMs has a really strange angle to it, so I found a custom fabricated one from JSP that shoots it straight to the radiator.



    New thermostat, and it has an awesome little bleed hole, just like the e36 SHOULD HAVE HAD if BMW gave a shit about us at all lol.



    So much nicer





    And here she rests

    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  11. #111
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    Luna got new stick on trim



    - - - Updated - - -

    Engine wiring is done, engine to body wiring labeled in prep for insertion into the chassis




    New 3 pin water temp sensor for the Beams




    Suitable crush washers that fit the new 3 pin sensor




    Heater hard line that will need to be modified
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    United States
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    '89 325iS, '89 M3
    I just stumbled upon this thread randomly through a post you made on a thread from 2013 about E30 radio wiring.

    It's been a while since I've found a build thread this satisfying. Keep up the good work, man.

  13. #113
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    72 + 75 2002's
    Thanks dude. I do need to get back on it... been kinda distracted building the 75 at the same time, and I've gotten a bit deep into that car too lol.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  14. #114
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    Jun 2014
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    '89 325iS, '89 M3
    That's always how it goes. I have 2-3 E30 builds and at least 1 part out happening simultaneously at all times. Each requires so much more attention than you anticipate.

  15. #115
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    More work on the M42 swap for Luna

    Battery (smaller AGM) has been tucked under the rear seat delete.


    e30 M42 radiator modified for use in a late model 2002. As some of you know, the extra bracing on the late models means your radiator cap fouls on the underside of the hood, on the driver's side. So off we go! First, chop the expansion tank drain off, flush.


    The bottom area around this hole is then melted with a torch. Using a large metal coin from the other side for support, we then melt the filler ABS into the hole in the end tank shell (where that drain was). I repeated the melting and drying process a few times to make sure the old and new plastic have bonded really well, and there's no holes. Here it is after a few cycles and it's all nice and smooth. I tested that this holds water overnight.


    Cut mesh for reinforcing the interior plastic welding. Test fit and trim multiple times. I lightly (so that we don't undo our work on the other side) melted the inside of the end tank shell so that the mesh could be pressed into place. Make sure all the ports are unobstructed, and melt a lot of ABS filler in. We want to completely cover the stainless steel mesh and create a new "floor" that's thick and well bonded.


    On the passenger side, nothing really needs to be done. However I did shave the peg and rubber pad for just a bit more clearance.


    I took this opportunity to replace the input seal, output seal, and selector rod seal on the Getrag 240 transmission. Seems like lots of people struggle with this, but it's a pretty easy job if you've got some basic tools around.

    For the input seal, you unbolt the shaft sleeve first. On my particular Getrag 240, the input shaft sleeve was stuck in place very well and wouldn't move freely once unbolted. Take a MAP gas torch on low, and warm up the base of the sleeve. I used a wood hammer handle and dead blow to knock around the base, and then used just the dead blow itself inside the bell housing. With small strikes to slowly rotate the base, the seal finally broke after a minute of small movements. There's a nice groove you can use as a pry point to get the old seal out. I carefully used a long flat blade screw driver, but you need to be cautious here as to not gouge the seat where the seal goes.


    Before putting the new seal in, wrap the input shaft splines with some thick plastic. A ziploc freezer bag works great. I installed the sleeve loose, then hand tightened the small bolts in star pattern, and then went back around and torqued in star pattern as well. Sealed back up with the addition of some Elring Curil. I also drilled out the pivot point to accept one of the nice brass pivots.

    From the back


    The output seal was definitely the easiest, but that's only because the trans is outside of the car. Pry out the locking ring. If you are gentle, you can reuse this. Then a deep thin walled 30 will remove the nut, the IE flange holding tool makes this a piece of cake.


    Pry out the seal (this one can be removed a few different ways) then clean the surfaces and start to set the new one in place. I had an aftermarket aluminum e36 rear spring perch that worked PERFECTLY for driving in the rear output shaft seal in.



    I just tapped around the circumference slowly with a dead blow hammer.


    I again used a tiny bit of Curil on the outside edge of the seal. Then some Curil to seal the output shaft splines and a bit of ATF on the sealing surface flange, used the deep 30mm to bump the flange in far enough for the nut to capture, then torqued into its final resting place. Don't forget the locking plate to finish this off!


    The selector rod joint is easily the most scary to do. There's just so little space between the sealing surface and the selector rod, and the seal is pretty stout. I found the absolute best way to go was this: At the top edge, use a tiny little flat head with the square edges sanded down and softened, to minimize the amount of damage it can do. Lightly tap it straight in, then once it starts deforming the seal's metal edge, start angling down. The seal should be crushing in and down.


    At the opposite side of it (180 degrees) Stab in a pick/pointed punch. You want to do this straight into the middle of the seal (not the edge like the other side). Once you've punctured through, you can swivel your pick to start prying outwards from the trans.


    Alternate the first and second steps here and it should come out with only two reps. Not much room to clean, but do your best, and then use a deep 15mm socket to drive in your new seal.
    Last edited by Spyke; 05-26-2020 at 04:10 PM.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  16. #116
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Aasco flywheel works with stock everything, so I went with that since I already had it on hand and it's not overly lightweight. Everything came together nicely




    Engine is complete as a unit and united with the subframe. Car lifted up super high, you need about 33" of clearance not including whatever you're using to slide it under the car. I used low profile jacks to pivot it into place. Then grabbed the engine from the top using an engine crane, and pulled it up into place so I could mate the subframe to the body.










    I pulled out the stock return line and got rid of the plastic fuel feed running through the cabin. I used new 5/16" stainless to bend up two new lines for both feed and return. These I flared on both ends, and I very guiltily made a new hole for the return hose to pass through. Even though I am using nice reinforced and jacketed line, I lined the new hole with some thick heater hose to protect the return line. The unused return is capped using the ol' bolt in a piece of hose trick. The new return flows through the e30 m42 fuel pump to avoid a potentially dangerous static charge build up.






    After mocking up several times and then coming to realize that I could not access the pin that links the selector rod and selector joint together, I gave up. Instead of shortening the e21 platform, I chopped it down to basically just the cup and immediate surrounding area. Using 3 of the e30 airbox bushings, and cutting down the e21 foam (it has a metal core) I made essentially a mostly-rigid chassis mount. This eliminated a bunch of extra parts and chances for play, and I generally like a more positive feeling shifter assembly anyways.









    Since I can't use the stock airbox, obviously we have to go aftermarket. I went with the KA Motors intake kit, as it seems nice enough and comes with an AFM adapter. (I have recently learned the intake is really just a generic piece you can online anywhere for pretty cheap.) While the intake is okay, the adapter is quite the opposite. The AFM adapter is metal and the hole pattern is close enough, but the mating flange was fairly warped. It took about 20 minutes of sanding by hand (with 3 steps of grit) on my work bench to get it flat enough for me to be happy. The "gasket" is made out of a hard, thick, non-malliable material that seems like Polystyrene or something similar. Also WILDLY warped, and since it's completely non-conforming it's essentially useless as a gasket. Ended up sanding this flat enough to use as well, but used some gasket maker on both sides of it.





    AFM coupled with Jakeb's bracket. The bracket was pretty rough, and also needed a lot of sanding to not be notably hazardous to soft hands.


    Last edited by Spyke; 06-21-2020 at 08:46 PM.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    72 + 75 2002's
    Everything is in and running. Picking up from my last entry, I had to chop up a DSSR I had sitting around to add an extra inch to the length. I purchased a small length of stainless rod in the same diameter from McMaster along with some electrodes to match from another supplier. It was impossible to find them locally, and difficult to find anyone online that would sell me less than 10 pounds of them, but I prevailed.










    I shaved a small amount off one side of the DSSR to clear the guibo when it's twisted to select the further gears, but after sneaking my phone up there for a photo of the clearance, it seems this was totally unnecessary.






    I used a 1/2" drive 24mm socket and a C-clamp to bench bleed the clutch slave, installed it, and bled some more.






    Everything works well and lands exactly where it should. The clutch is having just a little bit of trouble engaging fully, so I have an adjustable length push rod for the slave on the way from Rogue.






    I relocated my small AGM battery under the rear seat delete, using a Braille mount through the floor to keep it in place. Then I used a harvested grommet to pass the shortened e30 main cable up to the junction block in the engine bay.






    These solder plugs are amazing for new battery cable lugs, highly recommended. Just heat up the lug, and insert the cable, hold there until cool and solid.






    Finished off lugs look like this and I used color coded adhesive lined heat shrink to protect everything.






    Since the swap mounts do not have any accommodation for an engine ground as the stock arms do, that also had to be solved. I found this master grounding lug at an auto wiring supply, and used it in the frame rail in the engine bay to serve as an engine ground. I used an e36 X-Brace nutsert to securely and cleanly anchor it. Here it is in an exploded view:






    And installed:






    For cooling, I decided against using the modified M42 radiator and all it's plastic awfulness. It just didn't seem right, and I didn't really trust it to not fail on me. I went instead with an IE aluminum radiator with a bit more capacity. These have a bit of trouble fitting with a fan, so I also had to make a front side aluminum shroud with an electric pusher fan. The coolant hoses are sections cut out of Rogue Engineering silicone hoses for an e36 or e30. Not sure which, as I had both lying around. There's also a Pegasus racing 38 to 32mm reducer to adapt the larger M42 thermostat housing size to the smaller 2002 radiator size. A generic 32mm aluminum joiner that's tapped for a coolant temp switch joins the upper hoses and provides the electric fan in front with power.














    As the M42 runs an expansion tank in stock configuration, I wanted to maintain that. I used a late model e30 expansion tank and placed it above the brake booster. It's important to note that you need the 1.4bar cap for this, the radiator cap will NOT work in it's place. I've never in my life needed to wash my window on the go, so I have no qualms losing that. The tank is just nestled in there for now, but I did make a custom bracket to affix it to the booster ladder properly. To make it fit, I trimmed off the friction fit leg with a Dremel.






    Then I pressed some spare collar nuts into the slots that look like they were made for this exact purpose.










    Loctite some short studs into place, and it's pretty much ready. (These were trimmed down further than shown)






    Here's the Lokar cable kit in place, just needing a ferrule and a trim to finish it off.





    And of course a throttle cable bracket, made from a bookshelf bracket. Used longer bolts on the pedal box, and double nutted into place.






    This is just about the final form.





    The intake is carved down to match the front "firewall" profile, and held in place with two zip ties in pre-existing holes. The bracket from JakeB really doesn't seem to work for me, so I may end up modifying/welding it together differently to work later.






    Went up and down the street and then gave her a much deserved wash. At this point I just need an alignment and the exhaust redone, and see what works and what doesn't.


    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  18. #118
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    SF Bay, CA
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    72 + 75 2002's
    Luna has been sold, and life has been.... challenging the last few years. I have some updates, and I'm hoping to take some much needed vacation this fall/winter to start working on the Beams swap again.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  19. #119
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    MT View, HI
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    185
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    98 318ti, 80 733, 76 '02
    Quite the update. I hope you are doing well.
    Prices for our babies are getting crazy. I am tempted to sell my swapped 02 also.

  20. #120
    Join Date
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    72 + 75 2002's
    Got some good work in last fall, hoping to get more in since the garage has been warming up.

    Engine is in and solid, engine side wiring done, body side wiring done, working on joining everything together. It's taken a lot more crimp tools I've never owned before, which is expected I suppose. I decided to ditch the old school way of wiring and put everything through a solid state PMU, which will give me a lot more freedom, ability to program in extra functions, fix the dreaded hazard circuit, actually have a way of diagnosing things and pulling codes, and only need about 1/4 of the physical wires needed running throughout the car. There's only power wires and ground signals, it's still so strange wrapping my brain around sometimes. So used to doing piles of relays for every function.

    Fuel system is done but untested. Brakes need all new lines made up. I also have to figure out my booster situation which is extra weird because of the stock 2002 pedal box and the exhaust is on the wrong side of the car. I do have a small remote booster diaphragm, but ITB's makes that a funky job as well. An electric vacuum block might end up being the solution there. Driveshaft has to be fabricated at some point, and exhaust from scratch (headers all the way back). Cooling and fan is done besides tracking down hoses that will work. I have new close ratio gears for the steering box, so I just need courage to overhaul that, and a new center link for the steering. All the suspension is there and ready to go.

    Interior is not much to speak of since it will be purely necessities, a basic stereo and really absolutely nothing else. The only thing I'll likely do is some door cards. I am re-purposing the stock light switch, and moving the turn signal stalk to the left hand side. Debating even keeping any of the wiper stuff since I intend to never let this car see the rain.
    Last edited by Spyke; 02-15-2023 at 10:36 AM.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  21. #121
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    Back in the garage



    Making up rough mounts













    Everything works and clears, all bolts can be pulled out. I can definitely make this better down the road, but I'm super happy for now.



    The engine sits very low and should help keep the handling flat.



    It's also as far back to the firewall as I can logically go, and leaves some nice distance in front of the engine for the radiator and fan setup without changing the nose at all. (Besides pulling the snorkel.) This is also an AE86 swap radiator, that works beautifully in the BMW chassis. Since the engine is so low, there's plenty of room for the ITB's with 100mm trumpets and the Pipercross filter. The junction block is from an e36.



    If you need a good open barrel crimper I can HIGHLY recommend the Hero.



    Shifter lines up perfectly with the JSP AE86 relocation kit and makes the shifter feel like a rifle bolt. The tunnel plate was extremely hard to weld in for me, and even after some help it's not perfect yet.



    Honestly, no car has EVER fit this well on me. Every single thing I need to touch is right where I want it.



    Settled with all the weight on the suspension finally.



    This worried me quite a bit...



    But, as luck would have it, JSP developed this absolute work of art and I just couldn't resist.



    It's been such a long hard trip to this point.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  22. #122
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    Just posting real quick to keep this out of the archives.

    Wiring for everything is mostly done, I've just been a scaredy cat when it comes to giving the PDU and standalone power. I won't be able to take it if I fry something expensive because of a minor oversight
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  23. #123
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Somehow bought a house at 39, so this is on hold for the millionth time sadly.
    Current_SeeDee 1972 Type 114 Luna 1975 Type 114
    Past___Veronica
    1994 e36 Le-Ah 1987 e30

  24. #124
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Pahrump, NV
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    4
    My Cars
    2002TI IMSA race car
    I am thinking of selling my IMSA/TransAm 2002TI. I helped build the car in 1972 and raced it in 1972to 1974 winning the IMSA Camel GT manufacturers and Drivers championship in 1973 in Touring U2.5 Friends found the car in 2018 essentially the same as when we put her away in 1975 due to rules changes making the 2002 uncompetitive. After a mechanical rebuild leaving the body and livery the same as when stored, I started racing her again with great success. We were the 2021 BS and Group 8 SVRA champions. We won at the Lime Rock Historics last September and just completed Sonoma and Laguna Seca this spring. The car was accepted to Velocity last year and again this year. We are entered, but I am now 82 and while still quick, maybe it is time to let another enthusiast use the car. I do not want it cosmetically restored as the body/livery are pure 1970's. She has a Korman 230+HP engine, Metro Mechanics CR 4 speed and much more. The car would not win and be competitive if not wonderfully prepared. Dave Nicholas davnik6@gmail.com The car is in Southern California A few photos on my members page.2024 Sonoma 1.jpg

  25. #125
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    MT View, HI
    Posts
    185
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    98 318ti, 80 733, 76 '02
    Congrats on the house. Hecka market right now.

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