Here at last: jjjjjjj's turbo build.

[ocyrus411]

If you can hold off for 2 weeks I can sell you my f1 stage 3 with 10.4lb flywheel. I'd go 400 shipped.

Has ~7000 miles on it, never tracked, only seen 9psi (320lbs of torque.. rated for 435lbs) I recently dropped the tranny to change the throwout bearing, there are pictures of it in my build thread that was from about a month ago.

[ocyrus411]

Your message inbox is full

[usherboy83]

Got your message but inbox is full. And yeah!

[jjjjjjj]

Got a few parts, most of the essentials to get it at least running!

New Gripforce s3, I repeatedly lowballed a "buy it now or best offer" and got a great price. I really wanted the heavier 14lb chromoly flywheel hoping it will be a little better for driving nearly every day over a 10 or 8lb flywheel.





Got all new silicon couplers and T clamps, even a few extra pieces to try to go over the subframe, straighted and painted everthing else up like a BBQ grill.





New load leveler - worth it's weight in gold...



Finally installed my walbro 255 fuel pump and welded up my front subframe reinforcements, got some actual Lincoln wire to go in my HF wire-feed welder and it made a huge difference. I'll also be raising the engine + trans up as high as I can to squeeze out a little more ground clearance and room for piping, maybe 3/4" depending on thread enengagement on the Vorshlag mount studs.





Got bored waiting on parts so tried a few things on:




And with the sleeper-mode 325i slats, pretty happy I can keep this and my fogs if I want to:





So, all that's left to buy is a wideband and boost gauge and all the vacuum and coolant lines to the turbo. Im off this weekend and ultimate goal is to install everything and crank it. not sure if I can afford a wideband just yet or do the rest of the exhaust system, will just need a short piece to go from downpipe-->cat that will hold the wideband sensor. but I may be forced to drive it, I sort of need my own car to drive week after next!




Some questions:


- Is there a benefit to venting the charcoal canister to atmosphere and would I just plug up where the blue hose would go? OBDI here.


- Say I need to drive around open-downpipe (the wastegate will still be recirculating) would I really be hurting anything? It will probably just be for a short while until I figure out what i'm doing with it. I'm going to be brave and build it myself, just like a 18" section or so welded with a flex section and a wideband sensor bung, 3' pipe. Open downpipe - Extra power? Extra noise? Bad for the engine? new clutch and rebuilt engine so I definitely will be taking it easy for a while.


- Can anyone point my in the right direction to figure out the best way and place to tap for boost and connect vacuum lines like on the bypass valve and wastegate? tap the manifold, tee the brake booster..? This is some old AA stuff that came with the kit and draw-through tune plus I want to be ready for a boost gauge. I'm having a hard time finding exact examples or an AA installation guide. It seems nearly everything else is out there is a blow-through system


Thanks and any other input is welcome!!

[iRodD]

You can delete the canister. Blue hose needs to vent to atmosphere.

[Butters Stoch]

Got a few parts, most of the essentials to get it at least running!

New Gripforce s3, I repeatedly lowballed a "buy it now or best offer" and got a great price. I really wanted the heavier 14lb chromoly flywheel hoping it will be a little better for driving nearly every day over a 10 or 8lb flywheel.



Got all new silicon couplers and T clamps, even a few extra pieces to try to go over the subframe, straighted and painted everthing else up like a BBQ grill.





New load leveler - worth it's weight in gold...



Finally installed my walbro 255 fuel pump and welded up my front subframe reinforcements, got some actual Lincoln wire to go in my HF wire-feed welder and it made a huge difference. I'll also be raising the engine + trans up as high as I can to squeeze out a little more ground clearance and room for piping, maybe 3/4" depending on thread enengagement on the Vorshlag mount studs.



Got bored waiting on parts so tried a few things on:



And with the sleeper-mode 325i slats, pretty happy I can keep this and my fogs if I want to:



So, all that's left to buy is a wideband and boost gauge and all the vacuum and coolant lines to the turbo. Im off this weekend and ultimate goal is to install everything and crank it. not sure if I can afford a wideband just yet or do the rest of the exhaust system, will just need a short piece to go from downpipe-->cat that will hold the wideband sensor. but I may be forced to drive it, I sort of need my own car to drive week after next!

Some questions:

- Is there a benefit to venting the charcoal canister to atmosphere and would I just plug up where the blue hose would go? OBDI here.

- Say I need to drive around open-downpipe (the wastegate will still be recirculating) would I really be hurting anything? It will probably just be for a short while until I figure out what i'm doing with it. I'm going to be brave and build it myself, just like a 18" section or so welded with a flex section and a wideband sensor bung, 3' pipe. Open downpipe - Extra power? Extra noise? Bad for the engine? new clutch and rebuilt engine so I definitely will be taking it easy for a while.

- Can anyone point my in the right direction to figure out the best way and place to tap for boost and connect vacuum lines like on the bypass valve and wastegate? tap the manifold, tee the brake booster..? This is some old AA stuff that came with the kit and draw-through tune plus I want to be ready for a boost gauge. I'm having a hard time finding exact examples or an AA installation guide. It seems nearly everything else is out there is a blow-through system

Thanks and any other input is welcome!!

Delete canister and either open vent CCV or buy a catch can

Open downpipe is OK, will be loud

Pick up a 1/8ntp or 1/4ntp tap and drill and tap manifold for boost/vacuum sources. Try to give each piece of hardware its own source.
Don't use "T's". I want to say I have 5 nipples coming off my manifold. This way, if one line or piece of hardware has a problem it wont effect others. Use a sturdy hose to WG. You don't want that one having a problem. Also make sure your FPR has its own source and secure it from popping off. If the FPR line pops off, you will go lean fast in boost. Double and triple check each line, secure them with clams/zip ties. It is crucial.

[jjjjjjj]

I have a TRM catch can with a breather on it to come out of the valve cover so at least that is covered. Everything else is a mystery to me.

It will be the stock fpr so I guess I need to research that some more as well!

So if I do multiple taps, should it be one for bypass valve, one for wastegate, one for boost gauge..? I've been looking for a good drawing to work from but these AA systems are pretty hard to find support for.

[iRodD]

That blue plastic line is your fuel cell vent. Do you have the charcoal canister figured out?

[jjjjjjj]

That blue plastic line is your fuel cell vent. Do you have the charcoal canister figured out?

No not really, I've seen it done so where there just a breather on the blue line. I'd like to get rid of the large obnoxious thing in the spare tire compartment too, not sure exactly what that is but I know it can be deleted

[iRodD]

I'm just letting you know. You need to vent your fuel tank. Do what you like with the canister(s)

[stealthbeam]

Nice progress! I am in the middle of doing my front subframe reinforcements as well, did you make your own? Or buy a kit?

[jjjjjjj]

Nice progress! I am in the middle of doing my front subframe reinforcements as well, did you make your own? Or buy a kit?

I got the AKG set, they were half off online for $20 about a month ago. The bottom ones need to be bent into place but it all should make sense when you test fit it.

[jjjjjjj]

So here is my bypass valve (circa early century). This and my included AA wastegate each have 2 vac line nipples, any suggestion how it should go? Odb1 draw-through, not sure if it differs from a blow-through setup or why there are 2 connection on each.





Here's more , also have a TiAL sport wastegate with only one nipple and the catch can I'll be using.



Not sure on the TiAL I mean I'm sure its better but the pipes all fit with the AA stuff.

[jjjjjjj]

Fixed the pics above. What to do with the extra vacuum connections on BV and WG? maybe it's an IN and OUT connection on each?

[Grimm5698]

PM Sent

[usherboy83]

Cap the top nipple and bottom nipple runs to the nipple on the turbo compressor housing

[jjjjjjj]

What should I do about pintle caps for these 42#ers? Ordered 2 sets and can't seem to find anything that fits! Do I even need caps for these?



image-2425800722.jpg


image-1715053870.jpg


Can't find a p/n anywhere on them, came from the AA turbo kit probably 10+years ago, maybe Delphi?


Still slowly putting everything back together, be posting a big update soon I hope.

[jjjjjjj]

Anyone know about injector pintle caps? I know we all have aftermarket injectors! About to put them in if I don't need additional caps

[bry195]

on 2 sets of injectors that I have rebuilt the caps did nothing to shape the pattern. I think they are just to protect the pintle

[jjjjjjj]

So no caps, good to go?

[bry195]

If you are not worried about protecting the pintle then give her a go. Its kinda like asking if seat belts are necessary.

[jjjjjjj]

So she's alive!! ...or at least breathing. Have an expectedly rough idle and a little oil leak but I can figure all that out. BUT there is this constant squeaking that appears to be coming from the clutch area...





I'm worried that I put the clutch disk in backwards. It's a new F1 Stage 3, sprung hub with the less-lightweight F1 chromoly flywheel. I put the longer spline toward the rear of the car which after reading up seems wrong or at least much debated over the last few years depending on the flywheel used. I did it that way because there was plenty of clearance and it just seemed logical for the shortest engagement.

Yes, it's my first clutch job and no, I'm not really looking forward to dropping the trans. I still need to bleed the clutch so I can't fully test it yet, that will be done after work tonight so stay tuned lol.


Has anyone done this or recognize the sound of a grinding clutch disk??? that would be a huge help!!


This car MUST run by Monday morning or else Daddy can't take the kids to school

[ocyrus411]

i left my f1 stage 3 clutch job with a great mechanic I used for many years (only charged $50 an hour). he didn't wanna do it kuz he was strict about doing OEM jobs only. he did put the clutch disc in wrong.

symptoms were the squeeking. the car was not able to shift or move at all. when you bleed your slave this will be the best way to find out if your clutch disc is in wrong.

if I remember, you should have been given a yellow page with install instructions, it shows the way in which the flywheel and clutch disc are to be configured.

There are 2 sides to the disc. one that has a protruding side that houses the springs, and one side that is pretty well flat. To the best of my memory, the protruding side faces the motor, and the flat side faces the gearbox. If its the other way around, I believe it is too close to the input shaft of the transmission, and that is that makes the squeeking is that contact (I remember seeing rubbing marks on the disc when we dropped the transmission a 2nd time) That is with the 10.4 lb flywheel, it might be different for the 14lb not sure.

[Butters Stoch]

I can't believe the amount of clutches being installed backwards.

[jjjjjjj]

Can I facepalm myself..?

So that's the noise, I kinda knew it. The "instructions" were vague with faded photos of what was and wasn't covered by warranty so they weren't much help. I think there was a sticker on the bag saying which way but really I guess I just dropped the ball on this one.

I am however very happy that it cranked but I guess I'll know for sure when I bleed the clutch tonight. Figured I'd have to drop the trans next year to swap in a ZF anyway so not the end of the world.