Thanks! Yes, I found a ZF when I had more funds (before the valve job) from a local euro shop for $500 with 90 day warranty, and there's usually a couple around on CL or eBay for a little less. I just can't afford to spend that much at once until I sell something!
Also, there's the driveshaft and shifter linkage (I'm already spoiled and will want another SSK) so it's something I'll get around to, was planning on doing it last just because it's the most expensive piece and maybe I'll find a bargain.
1995 325i | OBD1 S52 | S50 cams | AA Turbo TD06 20g / 42lb / Porsche maf | .140 MLS | F1 s3 clutch | Ultimate SSK | AKG 75D subframe/diff bushings | 3.23 LSD | Powerflex LCAB/RTAB | e46 fca | Raceland coils | BMP rear arms | DEPO HID | AEM Failsafe | Aeromotive FPR | Walbo 255 | 3" Magnaflow muffler/cat/res | 17x8.5/9.5" 225/45 & 255/40
Yeah I'm hoping to spend half of that...
1995 325i | OBD1 S52 | S50 cams | AA Turbo TD06 20g / 42lb / Porsche maf | .140 MLS | F1 s3 clutch | Ultimate SSK | AKG 75D subframe/diff bushings | 3.23 LSD | Powerflex LCAB/RTAB | e46 fca | Raceland coils | BMP rear arms | DEPO HID | AEM Failsafe | Aeromotive FPR | Walbo 255 | 3" Magnaflow muffler/cat/res | 17x8.5/9.5" 225/45 & 255/40
Id be willing to sell for $350 shipped. Just let me know
1995 325i | OBD1 S52 | S50 cams | AA Turbo TD06 20g / 42lb / Porsche maf | .140 MLS | F1 s3 clutch | Ultimate SSK | AKG 75D subframe/diff bushings | 3.23 LSD | Powerflex LCAB/RTAB | e46 fca | Raceland coils | BMP rear arms | DEPO HID | AEM Failsafe | Aeromotive FPR | Walbo 255 | 3" Magnaflow muffler/cat/res | 17x8.5/9.5" 225/45 & 255/40
Sealed the head the 3 days ago, checked torque night and day ever since to make sure the final torque specs were good. Sorry, I like pics...
Today: happy with my progress, it was as a pretty intense hour and a half naptime session - Installed cams without breaking anything.
So I'll preface with this: I am not a mechanic. I never claimed to be and in fact I place my skill level at a careful balance of (1) longtime e36/e30 owner (2) Extreme bargain shopper (3) Thorough/obsessive as I can afford to be (4) Somewhat resourceful (5) about 10% hack/ain't care.
While there is a great deal of information available for these cars, sometimes things just get a little overlooked so I like to elaborate on my adventures from time to time and here are a couple of such cases:
In a semi-recent purchase I obtained a set of S50 cams for $250 shipped. Excellent price, however one minor detail: I had to remove and re-use my intake old cam gear / spline / sprocket piece because the previous owner upgraded to Schricks. I really didn't think was a big deal at the time. "How hard could it be?" - Famous last words. So knowing how delicate these cams can be and after my trusty Sam Walton impact wrench set as high as 130psi had no effect I had to stop, scratch my head and take desperate measures. 250 ft-lbs they said... do it while it's in the engine..? I'll break something. 6' pry bar..? I'll break something and probably hurt myself. So, using my trusty/free big-assed unmounted bench vice and Twister skills I devised the following method:
Left foot- Flat area of vice
Right foot - End of cam (very carefully)
Both hands - Torque wrench maxed out to 160 ft-lbs
Success!!!
I don't think it was really 250 ft-lbs. Ended up putting it back on to about 180 ft-lbs, pretty much the most I could do without hurting myself or the cam. I would advise taking one of these from a spare set of discarded cams if given the chance to have as a spare because they cost like $90 new, easily more than M50 cams are worth lol
Also, I figured out another way to install lifters and cam trays besides the magnet/metal rod trick. I used some string:
Tied it up, held it tight and carefully dropped the tray into place:
Cut the string, slowly and carefully pulled it out so nothing snagged and left nylon stings bits in the head.
/end of DIY hack lesson lol
So some parts arrived, very happy about these:
This, not so happy about:
It was advertised as a turbo or oil sump drain for $17 shipped but I guess it wasn't intended for an aluminum oil pan as there really aren't enough threads with the included washers. I'll probably still use it anyways and just get some thinner washers so not that big of a deal I guess. it does seem like it will be a pretty good angle but I'm not sure where to put it. One of 2 spots, which would be best, above or below the baffle?
Above:
Below:
Are there any pros or cons to below the baffle or would the highest possible spot be best? AA manifold, seems to mount the turbo higher than most bottom-mount manifolds.
Last edited by jjjjjjj; 06-03-2014 at 01:03 AM.
1995 325i | OBD1 S52 | S50 cams | AA Turbo TD06 20g / 42lb / Porsche maf | .140 MLS | F1 s3 clutch | Ultimate SSK | AKG 75D subframe/diff bushings | 3.23 LSD | Powerflex LCAB/RTAB | e46 fca | Raceland coils | BMP rear arms | DEPO HID | AEM Failsafe | Aeromotive FPR | Walbo 255 | 3" Magnaflow muffler/cat/res | 17x8.5/9.5" 225/45 & 255/40
Highest spot. Tap thread in sump. Mount with ptfe tape
Dude get a aluminum bung welded while it's out. Save you a ton a of headaches down the road.
a broken or leaking oil pan is an easy way to seriously irritate you after you get it all together. oil returns are finnicky I would do everything I could to make it bulletproof.
I just browsed the pictures so sorry if I missed it, but did you RTV the front of the headgasket around the timing chain cover? If not, you will regret not doing so.
I researched and didn't see much for it either way on that matter. I really wish I would have done it but didn't think about it until afterwards. I'm hoping the copper spray fills the gap in and there is a little bead that ran over in a few spots. Also was concerned about how the RTV would react with the copper so maybe it's for the best. My block+timing cover were machined together and the head were both refinished nearly mirror smooth so I'm thinking positive... Not sure it's worth removing and cleaning everything all over is it..?
So say I do want to go with a welded aluminum drain is there any certain type of aluminum to look for? I know it's the equivalent of 10 AN size
1995 325i | OBD1 S52 | S50 cams | AA Turbo TD06 20g / 42lb / Porsche maf | .140 MLS | F1 s3 clutch | Ultimate SSK | AKG 75D subframe/diff bushings | 3.23 LSD | Powerflex LCAB/RTAB | e46 fca | Raceland coils | BMP rear arms | DEPO HID | AEM Failsafe | Aeromotive FPR | Walbo 255 | 3" Magnaflow muffler/cat/res | 17x8.5/9.5" 225/45 & 255/40
Probably should have used RTV over and under the gasket around the timing cover.
I and others have had zero issues returning to the drain plug.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
it doesnt have to be welded but most people do weld them. I use a -10 earls or similar. its a bulkhead fitting like what you bought but its aluminum. I weldeded the nut to the inside of the pan. the fitting threads through the pan and into the nut. clean the anodizing off or it wont weld well. if you are having a hard time finding one look at the bulkheads for fuel cells. it has a teflon washer to seal it.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Engine all closed up. Now for the turbo mock-up i've always wanted to do lol. I'll be replacing all couplers and clamps as well as stripping/painting all piping:
Not sure where the small angled piece shown in the last pic goes. I know this is under-the-subframe IC piping (which scares me a little because I like to ride low..) but I'm sure I'll figure it out. It seems like AA turbo kits fell off the face of the earth because it's pretty hard to find any documentation or even results. Next up, hoping to pay for a ZF and start saving/budgeting for a clutch.
Question for the veterans: how would UUC ltw flywheel + e34 M5 clutch hold up vs. a Gripforce F1 Stage 3 ??
I'm very optimistically hoping for 380 WHP and probably past 400 with more boost. I've seen a few UUC + M5 combos used go for the same price a new F1 is going for so i'm questioning OEM/UUC vs proven "off-brand"
1995 325i | OBD1 S52 | S50 cams | AA Turbo TD06 20g / 42lb / Porsche maf | .140 MLS | F1 s3 clutch | Ultimate SSK | AKG 75D subframe/diff bushings | 3.23 LSD | Powerflex LCAB/RTAB | e46 fca | Raceland coils | BMP rear arms | DEPO HID | AEM Failsafe | Aeromotive FPR | Walbo 255 | 3" Magnaflow muffler/cat/res | 17x8.5/9.5" 225/45 & 255/40
it depends what line of m5 clutch as they have performance organic, cerametallic, etc. which all have different torque ratings and different degrees of driveability/longevity. assuming performance organic, with the m5 vs. stage 3 its pretty much full face organic vs. 6 puck ceramic and the 6 puck ceramic will almost always have higher torque ratings. uuc says the m5 clutch is rated for 450hp but not sure if thats for performance organic, cerametallic, etc. and its more important to know the torque rating of a clutch than the hp rating.
to answer your question tho i'm almost 100% the stage 3 6 puck ceramic would hold up better than the m5 performance organic. anyone on the board can correct me if i'm wrong.
I didn't look that far into it, the ones I've seen for sale (used) seem to be the OEM M5 clutch which I read multiple places good for 450hp, not so sure about torque. Also the UUC looks like it has a replaceable surface so not sure what the verdict is on that.
Still thinking a new one would be better for the
money if they are good for the same power. Now I know there are a lot of nice options like Southbend but I need also will need a new flywheel (228mm with the Getrag) and my budget is closer to $500 than $1600 lol
1995 325i | OBD1 S52 | S50 cams | AA Turbo TD06 20g / 42lb / Porsche maf | .140 MLS | F1 s3 clutch | Ultimate SSK | AKG 75D subframe/diff bushings | 3.23 LSD | Powerflex LCAB/RTAB | e46 fca | Raceland coils | BMP rear arms | DEPO HID | AEM Failsafe | Aeromotive FPR | Walbo 255 | 3" Magnaflow muffler/cat/res | 17x8.5/9.5" 225/45 & 255/40
yeahh i mean there are southbend clutches that you can pair with an m3 DMF which is sort of the route that i wish i went but i don't know what a boosted car is like with a DMF.. with a 10.4 lb flywheel its rev happy, easy to increase revs, so easy that tires spinning is bound to happen lol.. i double clutch alot of shifts, give it a rev when i take off at a red light. downside is chatter (not too bad after a few thousand km's tho), and 6 puck ceramic don't last as long as a full face organic.. so depending how hard you plan to drive it thats something to consider..
if i recall this is just going to be a track car (correct me if i'm wrong) if thats the case then i think a stage 3 is a slam dunk (get an m3 slave if the pedal is too stiff)
It's going to be a mostly daily driver that I drift as much as possible so yeah Southbend would be great. I'm still not sure I totally want a super-light flywheel which is another reason the F1 appeals to me, it's not too much lighter.
Maybe I'll keep my eyes open for a cheap stock M3 flywheel and do some more research.
1995 325i | OBD1 S52 | S50 cams | AA Turbo TD06 20g / 42lb / Porsche maf | .140 MLS | F1 s3 clutch | Ultimate SSK | AKG 75D subframe/diff bushings | 3.23 LSD | Powerflex LCAB/RTAB | e46 fca | Raceland coils | BMP rear arms | DEPO HID | AEM Failsafe | Aeromotive FPR | Walbo 255 | 3" Magnaflow muffler/cat/res | 17x8.5/9.5" 225/45 & 255/40
The majority of AA kits utilized Mitsubishi TD06H 20g with 14cm^2 housing. IIRC, it pushes 640cfm.
From all of my researching, many moons, it seems like a guy called "Dakar Dave" took it to 400whp and torque with Nick G. Tuning.
AA advertised the kit making around 365whp and most of the old dyno sheets are around that.
This is my signature....
Subscribed. What a great build. This is exactly the turbo setup I want to do, 20g turbo with 42lb injectors and all. Awesome. Can't wait to see further progress.
4-day weekend, not as much progress as I hoped for but can't complain. Engine 99% ready to drop in! Tackled the oil pan and drain and mounted a few other things:
In case you were wondering, yes I'll be retrofitting an M50TU beauty cover over an S52 valve cover on an M50TU head with S50 cams on top of an S52 block running OBDI. Frankensteinin' it up on a budget.
So I know I'm going down a less travelled road with my oil drain but I'm decently happy with how it turned out. My goal was to be solid with the best possible angle and I feel I succeeded. For the hole I found a nice thin hole-saw type drill bit that made a very clean cut considering:
The oil pan wall is a hair under 4.5mm, pretty thick but still seems too thin to actually trust threading a fitting so I just left off one of the washers that came with my drain fitting to expose enough threads. Ground off the coating best I could so it would weld better and after test fitting it decided that under the baffle was the best way to go, it would have been a pretty extreme angle had I gone up higher to the only usable spot above the baffle. I gently pried the baffle out of the way (WTF at this, why did BMW rivet the baffle on..?!?) to fit a thin 32mm wrench to tighten the nut as much as possible and then did my best to blindly weld the nut in place which was a major PITA with my POS wire-feeder lol. Really more than anything I'm happy with the angle:
So unfortunately I'm don't think I'll be able to afford ZF transmission + driveshaft + shifter and also buy a suitable clutch so rather than letting it sit for several more months I'll just get the F1 S3 clutch and take it easy for the rest of the year (no drifting... and absolutely no clutch kicks) and go with the Getrag for now. I know I keep going back and forth on this but I need the car running so I can take the kids to pre-school/day care and drive to work beginning August so the deadline has been set. Original spring/summer plans did not include turbo so the ZF was never really in the budget when I was just doing the M50 > S52 swap.
Must have / need to buy:
-Gripforce F1 S3 clutch. Torn between lightweight aluminum (10.4lbs) and semi-lightweight chromoly (14.4 lbs)
-Wideband. Still don't totally understand it all but I want to know what's really happening to avoid Ka-Boom.
-Boost gauge and all vac and coolant lines. still lots to learn.
-All new silicon couplers and T-clamps. Really want to avoid under-the-subfame if at all possible...
To-do / already purchased:
-Strip/paint hot and cold piping
-install fuel pump
-pull front subframe and weld in AKG reinforcements (hopefully replace control arms with e46 arms if I can come up with the extra cash!)
About that flywheel, My AA tune is already set for pretty much my exact hardware so I'm a little concerned about what an aluminum flywheel will do to my idle and i'm also slighly concerned with this flywheel chatter everyone complains about. I'm not so worried about the extra noise and i'm sure i'll get a tune revision at some point but for an extra $60 is the 4 lbs lighter flywheel really worth it? it looks very similar to the blue UUC flywheel and it $518 vs $458 for the 2 kits. I should be able to order it next week! thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Last edited by jjjjjjj; 06-25-2014 at 10:48 AM.
1995 325i | OBD1 S52 | S50 cams | AA Turbo TD06 20g / 42lb / Porsche maf | .140 MLS | F1 s3 clutch | Ultimate SSK | AKG 75D subframe/diff bushings | 3.23 LSD | Powerflex LCAB/RTAB | e46 fca | Raceland coils | BMP rear arms | DEPO HID | AEM Failsafe | Aeromotive FPR | Walbo 255 | 3" Magnaflow muffler/cat/res | 17x8.5/9.5" 225/45 & 255/40
Bookmarks