Congratz on the startup! I know your pain when it comes to wiring, nothing fun about, takes forever, and if you screw it up really bad things can happen.
Whats behind you doesn't matter
Black E36 M3 - Blackbird
Silver 2007 New Body 2500HD - The Judge
solid updates!
love the progress.
Congrats on the first start! Such a great feeling.
I fired up my M50 swap E30 this past weekend too, so I know just how you feel.
Thanks guys! It was and still is an amazing feeling. The last of my parts should be in this week/next week. First even I want to make it too is May 10th, pretty sure I'll make it
I'll try to remember to do that! Grattan is right in my back yard
- Brad
I'll send you a message a few days before hand.
Finished up the gauges, made a bracket for the header to stay put and put the wheels on! Fans work great too, move tons of air
Here's a nice idle video.
awesome.
how long before we get a video of you ripping down a street in Mexico?
Awesome progress man. Truly inspirational, I'm really thinking of getting an E36 and doing something similar. I'm pretty much your neighbor, I live in Macomb, I'd love to see this car in person.
Put some miles on the car, holy **** **** ******* ******** ****** this car is fast!!! It's not eve tuned yet!!
Need to get a new shift lever though, too close to my body position for my liking, I have long arms so my elbow hits the seat while shifting. MAF sensor pigtail comes in today, so that'll be wired up. Also rear rubs even after baseball bat rolling, going to add some camber to the rear to hopefully negate that issue. Overall, car is driving EXTREMELY well but super loud, need to finish exhaust this week. Coolant temp while driving was ~165-170, super cold with the fans off! Idle temp was ~185-190.. super happy about that, can't wait to see how she does on the race track.
Gheorghe, I may be going to one of the cars and coffee's coming up at Kart 2 Kart in a month or so, I can't this weekend as I have a marathon to do lol
Adjusted the rear camber and noted how much of a change 1 turn does on the arms, ~.5* per turn. Was at -.73 RR and -.49 RL, now at -2.66 RR and -2.58 RL, wheels don't look like they'll rub anymore.
Things to do:
-Make intake box
-Change oil cooler fitting when it comes in
-Make radiator side block off plate once oil cooler fitting is fixed
-Make exhaust when V-Band comes in
-I noticed a slight wheel wobble under braking, going to check wheel lug nut torque
Overall, I think that's it. Change the tires to the new NT01's and wait until memorial weekend track days!
Yesterday I changed the oil cooler from the 120* to a 90* fitting, this allows me to run the lines into the bumper and run a sheet metal radiator air flow block off plate higher. I also finished my exhaust. On my old setup I was able to fit in a resonator but do to the larger dual exhaust from the headers, the exit of the y-pipe was considerably further back so the resonator had to be eliminated. It seems like the exhaust frequency of the V8 is considerably lower so there is no high pitched high frequency sound that'll set off the sound meter at my local track, no resonator needed *i think*. Also, have small exhaust leak at the first v-bands off the headers, I don't know what I can do about that :/
Painted my headlights ricer yellow because the little bit of ricer in me digs it hard.
Traced down a 400mA draw, found out it was fuse 31... Don't think it ties into anything important that I actually need, so I pulled it.
Today I register and insure the car, hopefully alignment to straight out the wheels, going to run very little toe this year, maybe 1/16 total in the rear and front.
Some pics of the car
Engine shot
Rear fitment - Will be flared more this weekend.
Front fitment
Ass shot, car will be lowered once rear is a bit more flared... Kinda like it though, muscle car-ish
Side shot before corner markers were painted
Then finally painted the entire headlight yellow last night
Got some juicy info regarding the car. Overall the car is driving extremely well and pulls extremely hard, way harder than I expected. I went to the local track this weekend to watch some friends chip the rust off but also to get my car corner weighed!
Overall, I believe I gained ~40#. Before was 2640 with a half tank of gas, now is 2687 with a quarter tank (both weights without me). The corner weights are all screwy due to my ride height. Hopefully this will all be resolved within a week or two. Next corner weighing will be June 6-7 unless I can find someone local with scales.
Based off that, I'm going to lower the front right a hair and raise the rear right. I've never done corner balancing before, so any input is appreciated!! I'm going to watch some youtube videos also.
Also, got the car aligned to -2.6 all around... she's still rubbing even after the extreme fender flarring and cutting. I was hoping I wouldn't have too, but I'm going to get a set of hard motorsports fender flares.
Gotta LOVE the low RPM's with the T56/3.91 combo
Last edited by Inflame; 05-04-2015 at 12:42 PM.
Love to see a pic after its corner balanced
BMW e36 M3 #11 ST-3
Any ideas as to what I should do for now? My battery is located right rear and is only 15#, so that'll stay there. Are my corrections in the right direction? To reduce FR and increase RR.
You're going the right way with it, yes.
Ok, great! If I were to post the ride height numbers, relative to where ever I choose to take them from. Would there be a way to roughly determine how much of an adjustment would be needed?
You could theoretically calculate the change based on the motion ratio and the spring rates, if you know both. Might get you closer (less time on the scales at the shop later).
My car is the same way ~100lbs heavy on the back left, still dont know what im gonna do about so sub'd to your solution. If i find anything out myself ill be sure to PM ya.
Whats behind you doesn't matter
Black E36 M3 - Blackbird
Silver 2007 New Body 2500HD - The Judge
Personally, I have had some success with other chassis by setting ride heights first according to the most advantageous heights for suspension geometry (roll centers heights and camber gain curves), then roughly balancing out the total weights of the diagonals with the driver in the car and an average amount of fuel in the tank.
Then my second step to tune the chassis is to figure out if there is one direction where the car understeers and the in other direction it oversteers. If so, you can adjust the weights of the diagonals. If the car understeers when turning to the left, you want to increase the weight on the right rear/left front diagonal by raising the ride height (drop the spring perch) of either one of those two corners, or by dropping the ride height (raise the spring perch) of the left rear/right front corners. In truth, it's not really necessary to use scales, you can tune your chassis setup simply by using the second step of this process, but it facilitates the process by starting from pretty much equal diagonal weights.
If the car understeers or oversteers in both directions, then you have to make other chassis adjustments before you can really get precise with your corner weights.
Hope that helps a little bit, but I'm sure there are others who can offer much more precise info. I LOVE this car build!!!
Wow, awesome! Thank you guys for the tips and tricks, tomorrow I'll get a relative ride height. I know my spring rates and I'm sure with a bit of googling I can get the motion ratios. I'll post everything in here and we'll see what we come up with!
Awesome this is a cool build... Subscribed!
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