E36 M3 Track Car - S50 to LS1

[klodkrawler05]

pulling for you for a win! (class or overall. i'm not picky.)

I keep telling him to shoot for an overall win but he seems to be content with a class win

[Inflame]

videos, Bart.
those of us who won't be able to attend will need videos.

and that's awesome that you can/will log lateral/longitudinal acceleration.
i'm wondering what the limit is of the IR oil pan baffle in real world situations. (mostly i'm hoping that i'll never pull enough lateral G to need an accusump.)

pulling for you for a win! (class or overall. i'm not picky.)

I'll most definitely be taking video for this event! I've always forgotten before but no way I'll forget this time! So far, from what I've noticed (I don't data log oil PSI yet) the IR baffle is still letting some oil pressure drops but only 10 psi or so, it seems to be working fairly well.

I keep telling him to shoot for an overall win but he seems to be content with a class win

Haha, I'm just being realistic based of NEW INFORMATION OF A CERTAIN C5Z WITH 520WHP!!!!!!

[doktor b]

it's sunday night and i'm stuck at job2.
let's see some vids/pics.

hope your weekend went better than mine!

[Inflame]

Something small for now, no videos or pics just yet but tons are popping up every hour from the event.

I ran into a few issues over the weekend.

Friday, my alternator took a crap in the first session and the closest one in stock was 30-45 minutes away, after installing the new one and turning the car on, it still wasn't charging... turned out to be the alternator excitor wire was broken internally, major set back. All in all I spent 6 hours fixing the issues. Old alternator was dead though, tested bad.

Saturday, I was having the same issue as before with my catch cans spewing oil as it fills up from the valve cover oil slosh. So I capped the breather on the catch can and went to do a session... Major smoke show, though I blew the engine and/or something caught on fire!!!! But oil pressure was good so it had to be oil leaking onto the exhaust slightly, didn't think anything of it too much because I thought it was just oil from the previous sessions catch can oil spewing. The next session it got progressively worse as I went higher into the RPM's, this to me verified my thoughts that it's oil making it's way past the rear main seal due to too high of crank case pressure... It all made sense when I realized that plugging the catch can also stop the pressure from venting -_- was a long day and it didn't cross my mind. Fixed that for Sunday and went for a rip, no smoke so I was good to go.

Sunday, I was hoping to put down a good PR. My previous PR at gingerman on the corded NT01's was a 1:39.33 or so. I figured the new 275/35 Maxxis RC1 would be able to destroy that time off the bat but they couldn't all weekend until the last session on Sunday I was able to put down a 1:39.19... Pretty sad IMO that a fresh R-Comp couldn't beat a old and tired R-Comp. Anyway, I hope the tires get progressively faster. If not I'll never buy or recommend them to anyone. I did make quite a few videos over the weekend, but I have catching up to do for work and school, so they may take a few days to get uploaded.


Overall, the weekend was a great experience. Learned a lot about tire/chassis setup and had a blast. I placed 2nd in Track Mod RWD, beating a very experience driver in a new Porsche GT4, felt pretty good about that. I'm not sure where I placed overall, that should be up within a day or two.

[FastFabM3]

Did you get any kind of data to see where you were faster or slower?

[bmw328m52]

I like the real time testing you're doing with this build. As a VT formula sae guy, aero was a major emphasis on our car before it became popular with the rest of the competition.

[Inflame]

Did you get any kind of data to see where you were faster or slower?

I did, didn't look over it all just yet. I did glance to compare the NT01 vs RC1, the NT01 with ~55-60 heat cycles or whatever they were at, had the same sustained lateral g's at the fresh RC1... Was blown away by that.

The RC1 lacked the feedback/feel that the NT01 provided and the NT01 would just STICK where the RC1 would start to slide.

I like the real time testing you're doing with this build. As a VT formula sae guy, aero was a major emphasis on our car before it became popular with the rest of the competition.

Thanks! All part of the game.

Here is my flyer lap from the event, enjoy!

[TXBDan]

Nice. Looks like you're good on power!

Do you feel like your steering wheel is too far away?

[Inflame]

I think the camera lens makes it look like I'm hyper extending my arm lol, I saw that too and never thought it was too far away.

[doktor b]

hell yeah!
i need to sell my house so i can have some free time. i'd love a ride in that monster.
job2 tonight, so i'll be searching youtube like a fiend. if i find any videos with you in it, i'll link them in here.

[mateo m3]

Looking man!! Haven't been on bfc in a bit.. Good to see all the great progress..

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[Inflame]

Thanks guys, I know I've been slackin on these updates.

As of late, there have been minimal to no changes on the car. I added a drain back hose to the catch can, it goes into the hole where the stock oil level sensor is.



Also, since I feel like playing in MS paint, I added a hose into the the breather vent for my catch can with hopes it prevents oil from making its way out.




MS paint theory



Not bad huh 8-)

Other than that, car is good to go for the next even July 2-3 at Autobahn Country Club!

Here are some pics from the last event!

[jakermac]

Is there anything inside your can other than the tubes? My catch can looks a lot like your revised edition, except that between the outside walls and the inner tube I have 4-5 layers of aluminum window screen to help separate the oil from the air. Is the blue "spray paint" steel wool or some other sort of "scrubber"?

My center tube goes down to within about 3/4-1" of the bottom of my can. And I drain my can into a clear drink bottle. I have a -6 drain with a -6 bulkhead fitting into the screw on cap of the drink bottle. Most of my drives are somewhat short, and it's pretty humid here in the fall/winter (Umm... it rains all the time). I collect about 15-20ozs of water in the bottle about every 2-300 miles of driving. I'm glad that doesn't end up in my crankcase. My drives are not long enough to get the oil hot enough for long enough to boil off the water/condensation.

[Inflame]

Blue is oil, my bad. The catch can has no internal baffling, it was one of the few I could find quickly within 1 day shipping that has dual inlets, a drain and a breather. I've since found better versions with internal baffles.

[jakermac]

Another suggestion: I blocked the OEM port in the valve cover on my M50 based build because under heavy braking and hard right turns (happens a lot in autocross) all the oil in the cylinder head was being pushed directly into that port. Then when the throttle gets cracked open again to come off the corner all that nastiness was going right into the intake manifold. Now my 2 breather ports are on the top of the valve cover, directly over the intake cam at the highest point on the motor. Don't know if this would help your cause at all but it made a huge difference for me.

Car looks great by the way!!

[doktor b]

the oilpan drain fitting....is that some custom deal? or were you able to thread the 90* barb right into the level sensor?
my drives are def long enough to boil off any condensation that gets into the crankcase and was planning on having my catch can setup drain into the oil pan for ease of maintenance.

[Inflame]

This is the plug - http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS-Low...ort,35278.html

[Inflame]

Feels weird with nothing to do to the car... Kinda like it! So far, based off a picture from last year, I've put ~2700 miles onto the swap

[FastFabM3]

Feels weird with nothing to do to the car...

Make some side plates for your spoiler so air can't spill off the sides.

*whip cracking sound*

[Inflame]

Haha, eventually!

Here is a pic at speed (~90mph), looks fairly even downforce distribution. I'll have to find a static side picture.

[bmw328m52]

Lovin that positive rake!

[tptrsn]

Inflame, do you run the RevShift RTABs? If so, how do you like them?

I got some of the softest ones to replace the trashed factory style RTABs in the little POS e36 I picked up recently, and they look like quality pieces. I haven't put the subframe back in the car yet though, so I'm not sure if they are going to cause undue problems with lack of articulation or something.

[Inflame]

I run all of the RevShift bushings:
-Front Control Lollipops - 75D
-Rear Subframe Bushings - 75D
-Rear Diff Bushings - 75D
-Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - 95A

I am also running the softest for the RTAB to allow articulation and from what I can see, from tire wear and rear end feel, there is no play and no indication of snap oversteer from movement. I've had them for 3 years now with zero issues.

[tptrsn]

Cool!

Somehow I guess I didn't see that you could get the "solid" offset lollipop bushings, so I got those in 95A, motor mounts in 95A, and trans mounts in 80A (along with the RTABs in 80A). Everything is really nice quality.

As far as subframe bushings, mine seem to be decently hard solid rubber, so I don't really see a reason to replace those? I haven't looked closely at the factory diff bushings yet, are they normally pretty sloppy?

[Inflame]

Awesome. You'll know by inspection if the bushings are shot or not, usually you'll see cracking within the rubber and in extreme cases you'll see it completely separated from the housing. Also, while driving, if you feel the car is "wallowing", then usually your bushings are done for and allowing movement of the suspension components.