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Thread: Differential output flange not staying in place

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Temecula Ca.
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    4,489
    My Cars
    99 M Coupe LS Swap
    Subframe out and completely disassembled. I am going to do a little fine tuning on the EI adjustment kit put on last year. I could not quite get the settings I wanted. I placed the kit a little too conservatively. So the power file will come out this weekend and relieve a little more to get the movement needed. I think I'll make a jig and static align the hubs to the bushing mounts. I've not measured, but assume the mounts are square to/on the car. If not the plan will not work and I'll have to wing it. Normal for me anyway.
    Packaged with Flanges and even new clips arrived from Jonathan today. Maybe after diner I'll pop them in and see if I notice a difference in force to pull back out.
    Last edited by PbFut; 03-12-2014 at 09:00 PM.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Redding Calif
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    4,131
    My Cars
    1999 Z3 2.5L 5sp
    Just for grins: did you find the four bolts that tie the diff to the subframe fully torqued? And no cracks in the subframe or other excitement? Just thinking out loud .... ;-)

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Temecula Ca.
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    99 M Coupe LS Swap
    Report on flange findings. Jonathan Thayer sent me some used flanges. They appear about the same condition as mine. In some ways mine are better except the tips of the splines on my flanges are chipped from pulling out under load. I replaced one flange without changing the C clip. There was no noticeable change to the force required to pull back out. Bummer. I then removed the flange and pulled the C clip. Comparing to the new ones Jonathan provided, there was a slight difference in circumference old to new. New being smaller, a good sign in a way. I should have measured but didn’t think of it at the time. Installed the C Clip and then slid in Johnathan’s flange. Noticeable difference both in effort to push spline into the clip and force to pull spline out of position. I have to conclude that it is possible the C clips have given up some of their spring or slightly opened as a result of the flange being out of place over a long period of time, heat cycles or both. My flanges have some signs of heat on the tips of the splines. They were on a failed diff 2 years ago.
    My conclusion is that if you are having issue with the flange pulling out, the first step is to replace the 25 cent C clip. Easy to do on the bench, you will be a bit contorted if you have to do on your back. If that does not correct, you may need to go to a new flange. I will not be back on track for about 6 weeks, so we’ll have to wait for a complete test.
    Quote Originally Posted by gmushial View Post
    Just for grins: did you find the four bolts that tie the diff to the subframe fully torqued? And no cracks in the subframe or other excitement? Just thinking out loud .... ;-)
    All good. I use Loctite on the mounting bolts. Those damn things never stay put on a track car without glue. But you got to take the SF out to remove. SF and TAs are in very good condition.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Scandia, MN
    Posts
    271
    My Cars
    X5M, S50 ti
    Great thread...I'm having a similar issue with the E30 diff & shafts in my ti. I recently bought some new $50 cheap-o half shafts as my old cv joints were beyond their service life. I did notice when installing the new shafts that they slid into the output flange quite easily; I should've been tipped off by that. Drivers side shaft barely stays in place- slides in and out by hand, no tools. I'll start with the retaining clips and work backwards from there.

    Dan

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Temecula Ca.
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    99 M Coupe LS Swap
    Further findings proved the clips not to be the cause. It was the inner CVs ever so slightly binding and pulling on the output flange at speed. You can save a few bucks replacing by using a standard size CV. They are just a little thicker, but will fit on the Z3M. I have a couple seasons on the larger CV and there is no ill affect I can tell. Or buy rebuilt half shafts, but they are costly compared to a CV.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    west
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    364
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    ModelS;CayenneD;M5;MCx2
    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    Further findings proved the clips not to be the cause. It was the inner CVs ever so slightly binding and pulling on the output flange at speed. You can save a few bucks replacing by using a standard size CV. They are just a little thicker, but will fit on the Z3M. I have a couple seasons on the larger CV and there is no ill affect I can tell. Or buy rebuilt half shafts, but they are costly compared to a CV.

    I'm lost... are these not stock CV's???

  7. #32
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Bath, UK
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    2
    My Cars
    2004 BMW M3 Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    Further findings proved the clips not to be the cause. It was the inner CVs ever so slightly binding and pulling on the output flange at speed. You can save a few bucks replacing by using a standard size CV. They are just a little thicker, but will fit on the Z3M. I have a couple seasons on the larger CV and there is no ill affect I can tell. Or buy rebuilt half shafts, but they are costly compared to a CV.
    I'm having a very similar problem, only mine is with an e46 M3 with an e36 Evo diff installed. It has 4 clutch packs which are designed to run with zero preload with the belleville washers were removed.

    The wrong diff halfshaft was installed on the driver's side originally - the short one from the e46, and therefore it lost drive and the side gear span against the end of it. The side gear looks fine, really, perhaps very slight burrs at the ends of the teeth/grooves (see pictures)

    I'm wondering whether this could be gripping the halfshaft and popping it out, or if a binding inner CV joint is causing the problem. PbFut, how did you find out this was the problem?

    The thing is, it never happened with the original OEM diff, before this custom rebuilt diff was installed.

    IMG_20170716_185754_zpstfkmfzyu.JPGsplines.jpg

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Odessa, TX
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    880
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    2000 BMW Z3 2.8 Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    You can save a few bucks replacing by using a standard size CV. They are just a little thicker, but will fit on the Z3M. I have a couple seasons on the larger CV and there is no ill affect I can tell. Or buy rebuilt half shafts, but they are costly compared to a CV.
    Is there anyone who can explain this statement? What is a standard side CV? Where do you get it?

    I may be having a similar issue, but I need to get the car on stands and have a (not whiny) helper shake the shafts with me in the car, so I can see if it's the same sound I've been hearing and suffering through.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Temecula Ca.
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    99 M Coupe LS Swap
    My results were from trial, experiment and lots of errors. I kept blaming the clips or the output shaft for the problem. Given this is a track only car, and can't be put on the street, it was a few months of frustration. I came to the conclusion that the real culprit for me was that the inner CV, though seemingly fine, must have been failing and causing a pull on the output shaft. It does not take much to pull out of place. Anyway, FrankenCoupe is all about the lowest cost speed (which bites me sometimes) but in this case has turned out very well. It's been long enough that I do not recall the part numbers, but will say that the CV I used is a very common part. Everything is identical, even ball size, except the main body/cage is just slightly wider. So there is not as much in and out play on the half shaft. But I do not find it to be an issue. Its been 3 yrs with no ill effect. Look at off road suppliers. Very common in buggy builds. Also, there is a Porsche part that another member identified as a direct perfect replacement. I think if you search a little it will come up. It is just a few dollars more and may suit those not wanting to risk a non-standard part. Be sure to use good Molly Lube during assembly. Also, for the over acheivers, you can polish the races of the cage to reduce friction with a diamond impregnated drum. Or you can also buy the cage polished from the vendor. $$
    Found the Porsche part link https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-911-CVJ-(WIP)
    Last edited by PbFut; 07-20-2017 at 01:48 PM. Reason: added link
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Odessa, TX
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    880
    My Cars
    2000 BMW Z3 2.8 Roadster
    Well, that's good news for the M crowd. I just have a 2.8 M52tu, lol. Still need to go out there and get someone to shake the axles for me.

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