DIY: Autozone H8-DL Battery

[cnn]

There is a thread here:

Bought an Duralast battery, but it doesn't have a vent tube?
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ve-a-vent-tube

-----------
Since Autozone H8-DL Battery presents some unique issues, I thought a DIY is useful for others...

My 5-year-old Autozone Duralast 49-DL just died. Autozone no longer carries 49-DL. If you want your life to be simple, get a similar battery with center vent as the 49-DL.

Two reasons I went to the newer type Autozone H8-DL battery, which has side vents:

1. Autozone has a vast network of chain stores in the US, so if I am out of town and need a replacement battery, then it is somewhat easier.

2. It was Sunday and I needed to get this done, so read on if you decide to go this route. It was a bit of extra work but I think worth it considering the vast network of Autozone in the US.

PARTS:
* 3/16-inch vacuum hose, a few dollars at autoparts store.
* One (1) T-connector for vacuum hose, check autoparts store.
* Two (2) elbows. It was Sunday, dealer closed, so I went to Home Depot and bought a 10-pack of 1/4-inch barbed elbows for $1.50, dirt cheap. And it works perfectly, it fits in the side vents of the H8-DL battery very well.

1. Battery, elbows, and T-connector:

E39-Battery-01.JPG


2. Note side vents, I installed one elbow for you to see:

E39-Battery-02.JPG


3. Installed: note the factory vent hose is somewhat bigger than the T-connector, so I added a zip tie for good measure:

E39-Battery-03.JPG


4. For battery hold down, this is the only configuration that worked for me:

E39-Battery-04.JPG


5. The top bracket issue. H8-DL is a bit taller than 49-DL, so you need to modify the bracket a bit:
* Turn bracket upside down and tap it as shown. This creates extra space to accommodate the new battery top.
* The bracket side attachment: you may need to bend it a bit (adjustable wrench works great here) to fit.

E39-Battery-05.JPG

[cnn]

6. Final photo: since the side vent is directly below the Red Cable: although it is vented using the elbow/vacuum hose, I used an old plastic card as an additional shield. Added some zip ties and voila.
Hint: this Red Cable is expensive, so additional protection against battery acid is highly recommended.

Verify that all bolts are tightened properly. Finger-tight and a gentle twist is good enough.

E39-Battery-06.JPG


That is all boys and girls. Listed price for H8-DL was $129, I asked them to price-match to $109 out of the door.

Special thanks to QSilver7 for his expertise on BMW elbow PN. As mentioned above, I didn't need to use BMW elbow, instead I used drip irrigation elbows, cheaper and fit perfectly.

[ViolinARC]

CNN, my question is about the durability of the plastic "irrigation" elbows...how will they hold up over time with exposure to the batt acid/vapor (designed for water)? I would imagine a short life with a high failure rate but you could always replace with a more chemically resistant plastic when that happens.

Nice mod BTW. I have considered replacement with either a gel pack or dry cell when it's time again. I actually replaced my motorcycle batt with a maintenance free gel filled battery and now have zero issues with batt failure. Even when trying to be diligent charging with the lead/acid batts, they were failing about every 6-months, which was unacceptable to me. It has been 3-years using the gel filled batt and I don't keep it on a trickle charger. The bike fires up without any complaints every time, even after sitting idle for several weeks...I am a true believer.

[cnn]

In general, plastic handles acid very well. Example: the casing of the battery is plastic.

I understand the elbow I used is designed for irrigation but chemically speaking, it is the same plastic as elbow used by BMW.
The plastic elbow (Home Depot) seems very well built, rock solid to me.
I personally would not worry myself, but will certainly update the crew from time to time...

[ezbmr]

Buy 49dl at walmart, same battery

[jamesdc4]

Nice Cam.

I have considered replacement with either a gel pack or dry cell when it's time again.

I would hold off on using a gel battery. Something about the E39 charging system not being compatible. I could be wrong.

[larrym3711]

Size 49 is no longer produced or available, including Walmart. The H8 size battery shows as a replacement , or even H6 (similar to size 48) for smaller CCA needs. I do understand that the voltage / current curve for Gel batteries is not suitable for our alternators / regulators. That being the case, is the H8/H6 series suitable for the E39?

larrym3711
2001 540iA Sport

[ezbmr]

The H8 is the correct size for a E39, the 49 is actually shorter.

[larrym3711]

I physically took my size 49 battery and set it next to a new Autozone H8-DLG. It appeared to be the same length, same width, but different height. I think it will fit the battery compartment just fine....but.....we may have to modify the top clamp hold down (or not use it at all). Remember, there is that end screw hold-down in addition to the top clamp. Also, there may be a slight change to the battery vent location , if I remember correctly (side versus end location ).

larrym3711
2001 540iA Sport

[ViolinARC]

Nice Cam.

I would hold off on using a gel battery. Something about the E39 charging system not being compatible. I could be wrong.

Thanks Bro...good info guys. How bout a dry cell? These lead/acid batts just don't sit well with me anymore (especially enclosed in the trunk). I have corrosion where the damn thing oozes acid when charging including on my truck's frame and the failure rate has been high in my experience...

[ViolinARC]

Size 49 is no longer produced or available, including Walmart. The H8 size battery shows as a replacement , or even H6 (similar to size 48) for smaller CCA needs. I do understand that the voltage / current curve for Gel batteries is not suitable for our alternators / regulators. That being the case, is the H8/H6 series suitable for the E39?

larrym3711
2001 540iA Sport

Good info Larry...thanks.

[jamesdc4]

Thanks Bro...good info guys. How bout a dry cell? These lead/acid batts just don't sit well with me anymore (especially enclosed in the trunk). I have corrosion where the damn thing oozes acid when charging including on my truck's frame and the failure rate has been high in my experience...

Sounds like you need battery mats.
http://www.batterymat.com/

[gc325is]

Note: in the pictures Qsilver7 attached Part number is H8-DL but Group size DIN H8 and the BCI 49. This is just a new way to ID a battery.
Do not know if height is taken into consideration. Also some New BMWs have a programmable alternator, Battery size and type are used to determine charge profile. (AGM vs Flooded and CCA)

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ent-tube/page2

[cnn]

Sounds like you need battery mats.
http://www.batterymat.com/

James,

Actually I went to Home Depot, bought rubber door mat for a few $, cut it to size.
I cut the mat to be about 1" wider than the battery footprint.
I do this for all my cars at home.

[cnn]

Someone asked me about the hold-down bracket why I had to reverse it.

See the photo:

- To the LEFT is Factory Battery (pic from the internet), note hold-down bracket "bump" fits the groove in the battery.

- To the RIGHT is my Duralast H8-DL battery. If I use the factory setup, the hold-down bracket "bump" still fits the battery groove, but when I tightened it down, the hold-down bracket "bump" is now touching the side wall of the Duralast H8-DL battery. Probably OK but I didn't like the way it looks.

- This is why I reversed the hold-down bracket as shown: all this bracket this does is to prevent the REARWARD movement of the battery. Note that I put a rubber mat at the bottom of the battery.

- The top of the battery is held down by the TOP bracket.

My theory is the H8-DL is a tad longer than factory, maybe 2-3mm or so (not sure, just a theory), so I played safe by reversing the hold-down bracket. In fact, I did this for the old 49-DL battery (that just died).

Anyway, this is what works for me, do it anyway that fits your taste.


E39battery.JPG

[jamesdc4]

Lol. I believe that conversation was between you and Quenton in my 49-DL DIY install thread.

- - - Updated - - -

Battery Replacement with Duralast 49-DL

I did the same thing. For Duralast 49DL, put the #15 back exactly like realoem picture above, i.e., small end toward battery.

Note that in this write-up, with the OEM battery the wider part of #15 goes toward battery.

Eitherway, the #15 simply holds the battery from back and forth motion from accelerating and braking.
What holds the battery downward is the metal bar on TOP of the battery. If you ever invert your car in an accident, this bar ill prevent the battery from falling down...hehe.....

Cnn...if you turn #15 with the wider section toward the battery (like BMW sent them over from Germany)...not only does it prevent the battery from sliding forward and back...but it prevents it from being able to be pulled upward (hence the name "battery hold down clamp").

That hold down clamp (#15) is used in multiple BMW applications (see the images from my e38 below when it still had its original battery from the factory) which doesn't have the brace bar across the top...it only has the hold down clamp...and note the direction of the clamp and how the wider side clamps down on the foot/base of the battery which holds it down as well as from sliding forward and back. If the e38 goes shiny side down (flips)...the only thing holding the battery is the hold down clamp and battery cables!

(E38 battery compartment & hold down: wider side is turned toward the battery and clamps down on the foot/base of the battery)

-

Also note that in the diagram for the e39 battery...there are several of the items that are NOT drawn in their correct position:

• the top brace #5 - is upside down and drawn in the wrong direction
• the hold down clamp #15 - is not facing the correct direction & is on the wrong side of the battery
• the cover that none of us seem to have #9 - the groove in the top is also drawn in the wrong direction...it should point from the positive battery cable post toward the rear license plate

If your battery is tall enough, the brace (#5) will secure it...or one can do as was mentioned in the other thread and use a small block of wood between the battery and the brace...and that can help secure the battery...but I would highly suggest turning the hold down clamp around (#15) so that it clamps down on the foot/base of the battery for extra security.

That's amazing. That diagram sucks. I'm never using it again.

Let's take an even closer look at the diagram...

- The bolt (#6) is upside down.
- The plastic shield (#7) is positioned on the wrong side.
- The battery itself (#1) shows the positive and negative posts reversed.
- The cover that no one has (#9) is not only positioned incorrectly, it is impossible to position the positive post cap properly (no matter how you orient it).
WOW!

[cnn]

Wow, james...I don't even remember that that conversation with Quenton a few years ago.
You have an amazing memory lol...

[Qsilver7]

....neither do I...and what's funnier...I reiterated some of the same things about the clamp today over on Bimfest...but did take note that your modification of the top bracket is now preventing upward movement.

[jamesdc4]

....neither do I...and what's funnier...I reiterated some of the same things about the clamp today over on Bimfest...but did take note that your modification of the top bracket is now preventing upward movement.

I still haven't modified it. I'm hoping to not have a roll over any time soon.

[larrym3711]

So...we need an actual H8 battery installation DIY...or similar...that describes any mounting changes (such as bending or modifying the top brace, and whether or not we should rotate the bottom hold down to have the "narrow" side next to the battery...if...as we hear...it is 2-3 mm larger than a size 49.

larrym3711
2001 540iA Sport

[jamesdc4]

I did that DIY in 2009. It's about time for a replacement.

[auaq]

I did that DIY in 2009. It's about time for a replacement.

5 years already, eh? My sticker says Sep 2009 and is the BMW battery. Not having any issues yet. Just occasional battery light that comes on for only a few seconds on cold start and mostly during winter time. No problems whatsoever during the rest of the year. I'm actually impressed by how far it has performed over these years. The only time I had the light staying on was because of bad alternator about two years ago.

notbadobama.jpg

[Qsilver7]

I still haven't modified it. I'm hoping to not have a roll over any time soon.

....neither do I...and what's funnier...I reiterated some of the same things about the clamp today over on Bimfest...but did take note that your modification of the top bracket is now preventing upward movement.

James...sorry for any confusion...my comments in the quote above were to CNN. He posted a DIY over on BimFest of his install of the Duralast H8 DL. And it was in that thread over there...I mentioned the same thing about the hold down clamp as the quotes in the old thread you find over here.

So...we need an actual H8 battery installation DIY...or similar...that describes any mounting changes (such as bending or modifying the top brace, and whether or not we should rotate the bottom hold down to have the "narrow" side next to the battery...if...as we hear...it is 2-3 mm larger than a size 49.

larrym3711
2001 540iA Sport

There really aren't any new mounting instructions for the new design of the Duralast H8 DL except for the change of the vent tube from the top center...to a side vented battery that is like the original set-up where a small black elbow is used between the car's gray vent tube and the hole in the side of the battery.

CNN modified the top bracket due to his use of a rubber mat beneath the battery...which raised it higher. To install the new Durlast battery case...there's nothing different to do except the side venting hook up. The battery hold down clamp and the top structural bracket need no modification for normal installation.

CNN also hooked up an additional vent tube to the NEG side of the battery case by using a T-connector. This again, isn't really necessary unless you want to do it. To plug the vent hole on the NEG side of the battery case...the manufacture added a pop-off plug on the cover for the POS terminal...you just pop it off the cover and stick into the unused hole.

Here's a direct link to that thread on BimFest if you want to see/read the comments and thread direction that occured over there: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=756617

[jamesdc4]

James...sorry for any confusion...my comments in the quote above were to CNN. He posted a DIY over on BimFest of his install of the Duralast H8 DL. And it was in that thread over there...I mentioned the same thing about the hold down clamp as the quotes in the old thread you find over here.

No apology necessary, Q. My comment was tongue and cheek.

[Qsilver7]