Wall Street: Twin Turbo LS Powered E34

[bimerok]

Breathe my friend, deep in, then out...

[Avec]

One reason to swap from the box to a rack on a conversion such as this is that the box is a major impediment to the driver's side header. No off the shelf header will work on that side, so your choices are 1) Make a custom fabricated header, 2) Buy a custom fabricated header, or 3) block hugger exhaust manifold. The steering rack conversion is a much better, and in the long run cheaper option, not to mention allow a larger header for more power.

[tptrsn]

one reason to swap from the box to a rack on a conversion such as this is that the box is a major impediment to the driver's side header. No off the shelf header will work on that side, so your choices are 1) make a custom fabricated header, 2) buy a custom fabricated header, or 3) block hugger exhaust manifold. The steering rack conversion is a much better, and in the long run cheaper option, not to mention allow a larger header for more power.

thank you!!

[GaryGarys]

I swapped out the steering box for 3 reasons; it's huge and in the way, it needs a high pressure pump, sloppy with a slow ratio. The BMW steering box setup uses a higher pressure power steering pump than a GM PS pump. Since I am using a lower pressure hydroboost system for the brakes, I figured I may as well swap it to a rack so everything plays together in regards to pressure. Its also right in the way of the driver side header as OP said. They are slower ratio and with the many ball joints they have there is just play in the system unless you go all heim joints and tighten up the box.

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Also someone mentioned the rear. I talked to the guys at Wanganstyle Global (he posts on this forum a lot in matters relating to the diffs) and he suggested I get a 210mm diff and build it when/if it explodes, so I bought an E34 M5 Diff with 3:73s for now. I still need axles. I also bought the clutch, a mantic 9000+. I drove a friends car with one and the pedal feel is great, really unbelievable for a clutch that will hold over 1000 ftlbs. The build quality on them is amazing also.

[tptrsn]

Thank you for the answer about the switch to the rach GaryGarys, very interesting stuff!!

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By the way, I LOVE your cardboard intercoolers for test fit! All of the fabrication is beautiful.

[GaryGarys]

Did a ton since my last update. Swapped in large bearing trailing arms to go with the larg case diff


Had to swap tone wheels to maintain correct abs pulse



Modified fuel hat for 450lph pump and larger fuel line.


Test fit of IC, Radiator and condenser. I got an M5 condenser which is shorter than the 525i one and worked much better for my charge pipe coming up over it. I also ditched the throttle by wire C5 throttle body for a regular cable one since I decided to go with Megasquirt for management rather than HP Tuners.


I figured any filter is better than no filter, this super JDM one was the only thing I could get to fit and not lose headlights on that side


I know everyone is going to love my wooden mock up caliper brackets





Fronts

Rears


Custom Drive Shaft



Finish welded trans mount


I'm not shaving the bay, but I did remove tabs, mounts, etc that are no longer in use and filled the holes


Relocated ABS pump with all new lines

[get dustd]

For the manifolds, I just preheated them to ~500 degrees before welding and kept them hot. The Turbo flange is a T4.

I did this on my car too. The LS manifolds are not typical cast iron, they actually hold up really well with this modification.

[get dustd]

What are you doing for the inter cooler location? I built a turbo e34 525 and I had to sandwich it between the condenser and radiator. Worked fine but getting a fan to work was tough. On my ls e39 build I had the same process of going from twins to a single s400. I think it worked out for the better. Why such big X-overs? My turbo builder said 2" or 2.25" will give you killer throttle response.

[GaryGarys]

IC is in the front, then condenser and radiator. I cut everything out of the car and just made a new lower rad mount and put everything on that in a big sandwich. I'm running SPAL's most powerful slim fan with a Painless fan controller. The Painless controller is the best, 2 speeds, AC signal input, etc. I went 2.5" with the crossover pipe because that's what the LS manifolds were and I didn't want to reduce them down. Same for the 4" exhaust, the turbo exhaust is 4".

[GaryGarys]

Car is running and driving now. I did a street tune, will post numbers whenever I make it to the dyno. Working out odds and ends now, but for the most part it is together.






This is a bluetooth to serial adapter I put in the computer so I don't have to plug the computer in.


I mounted everything in the original computer box, shown here are the fan controller, relays and stuff


So many wires


Gauge pod for the wideband and boost control knob


Flocked and installed


Fabbed up a driveshaft loop



I wanted to retain the low coolant overflow level sensor so I made a fitting for the BMW gauge





Gold heat shield on the inner fender


4" all the way back





I was melting the connectors on the coil packs so I made a heat shield for that side



Most importantly



Paint is up next


and a bluetooth reworking of this guy

[ThePrez]

Sweet build!

[tptrsn]

Love what you're doing!!

What muffler is that you're using? My 4" exhaust combo is too heavy on bass and rather droney in the car. I'd like something with a bit more "mufflage".. I have a Vibrant 4" aluminum resonator just after the downpipe, and then I have a Hooker Maxflow (I think it is, if I am remembering correctly) at the back. 4" aluminum tube from the bottom of the firewall back.

BTW, it looks like you sorted the bluetooth power issue, but if you have any trouble with that I have been able to modify my similar looking one to receive its power from DB9 pin 9.

[GaryGarys]

I’m using a Vibrant 4” in to dual 3” out to resemble the look of the original tips. I had to cut the bumper a bunch to make it fit. There are also (2) vibrant 4”x6” resonators and a 4”x9” resonator. It’s by no means quiet, and I may put a cat on it so get it quieter. I have an intake leak somewhere so I can’t get it to idle down lower than about 900 rpms so it’s hard to tell what it’s going to sound like at a reasonable idle. Making a pull under load and boost it sounds decent. For the Bluetooth power I used a little 12v to 5v converter off the hot pin coming into the ecu.

[tptrsn]

Ok, thanks! I'd love to hear this beast in a video. I know it will be hard to convey the drone or lack thereof in a video though, so I will just rely on your description.

Such an amazing build, I hope you enjoy it when it is "done." I can tell though that you are a guy who probably enjoys the build as much or more than the finished product.

[jrode34m5]

Very nice project!!! Do you have any more pics of the rack and pinion installed? any feed back driving the car on the streets?

Thanks

J Rod