While doing the VANOS seals from Besian, i replaced the valve cover gasket also last year (2012 OCT). Now the valve cover gasket is leaking again (within 5K, 16 months). I used the Victor Reintz brand from eBAY. Does any one else have problems with Vitcor Reintz? It was only $23 from ebay with shipping. I should have bought the genuine BMW (luckily the VANOS seal to the head and the bolts, i bought the OEM). It is leaking to the front left area (when i face the vehicle) to the exhaust gas valve mounting bolts and also at the left rear(minimal).
Yesterday i got this nasty smell of burning oil and i checked and found about this. Only a drop on the floor so far.
How long does the valve cover gasket should last?
I replaced mine last year at about 80k miles when I did the Vanos repair as well. Bought it pre-emptively thinking the old gasket would be dried out. Amazingly enough, the old gasket was very pliable and could have been re-used if I didn't want to replace it. I found there were two or three board vendors selling the gasket for pretty reasonable prices. If it is leaking front left, did you apply the silicone gasket sealer on that area like the Beisan instructions directed you to.
Now in E92 M3 ZCP -- Absolute beast
Yes i did apply the silicone gasket sealer where the half moon meets the head. Also checked the torque and it is 89inch ( 10NM). It was fine for last ~13 months. Suddenly started leaking. I used the orange gasket sealer.
Even in my case too, old gasket was still in good shape. Since changing all the others, changed this one too. Wonder if this is an issue with the gasket it self. Also i didn't changed the rubber grommets.
It is a really nasty smell..burning oil smell.
Also wondering if the cold weather have anything to do with it.
When I did the VANOS seals I likewise used a Victor Reintz gasket: so far so good - been about 10k miles and almost a year and no complaints (likewise, zero leaks). Did you clean both surfaces clean clean clean? Likewise, are the wires that run along the back of the head, not being trapped by the gasket and providing a leak path? When you say leaking at front left - is this to the left of the curved part? Or in the curved part? If at the end of the curved part: did you apply the blob of RTV there when you reassembled? The back left is where the wiring tends to cause the leaks if they're being trapped. Can you tell if the leak is btwn the gasket and head, or gasket and valve cover? ... getting rid of the incipient leak and drip onto the manifold, and ensuing smell was one of the motivations of doing the VANOS / VCG.
An oil leak in that area typically signals that the cyclone oil separator is plugging up. Your gasket was probably fine, until internal crankcase pressure overcame the ability for it to maintain a seal.
It's worth investigating, and if deemed necessary, you get to do the cyclone fun kit
I used a Vitcor Reintz valve cover gasket from Bimmerzone when I did my valve shims a couple years ago. No problems so far. I used them on my M5 as well, and my buddy I did the job with said they tend to be crappy and some bmw circles think they're worthless and avoid them like the plague. So this is not much of an answer to your question, but just some interesting info I've come across in the last few years.
Valve Cover Gasket life was 56K on the daughters 2001 it was pretty much plastic
and leaking like crazy. Wife's 1999 has 45K and no leaks yet I may change it soon
as PM.
Greg..Please see the photos from http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/sa...31fba.jpg.html and click next to see more. The main place where i can oil see clearly is on the two nuts which connect the exhaust valve (two of them). Also the heat shield kind of thing as you can see, it slightly wet (very light).
Randy...The CVV and its hoses are new (genuine BMW). Changed them when i removed the intake to replace the water pipes. I will check it and update it. Start it and let it idle and check for vacuum right? Also blow via the tube which goes from intake to CVV and listen for oil bubbling sound + there is no whistle sound. Also no smoke or anything.
One more thing, the day it happens is, i drive like 5 miles (spirited / non spirited), no smell. Then stop for like 30 minutes and then drive again. I can smell it immediately. This behavior is repeatable. may be i am not driving enough in the first leg of the trip? All of this started happening after the car sits almost a week without driving. Also the oil leak on the floor is very little. Kinda of like 1-2 drops.
Last edited by saneesh8; 02-10-2014 at 11:02 AM. Reason: added more details.
Can't get to the images - "an error has occurred" ??
Don't have a picture in front of me: but don't you have the CPS there, ie, could that be your source and not the gasket? Have you been able to confirm that the source is the gasket? Or, is that the most likely source?
Hi Greg..
Can you try it again? Sometimes that website have this issue. Can you try the update link below?
http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/sa...tml?sort=3&o=0
I tried with my finger on top the valve cover along the bolts for the VCG. No leak. Then i went on the side and under it and i can feel it in the finger. Moist, not so much except in the front. Also on the rear left, there is more. Also the heat shield kind of thing there is moist. That makes me believe that the gasket.
- - - Updated - - -
Checked the CVV. No issue. I can blow via the tube and can hear the oil bubbling. Also the vacuum is minimal as required.
Checked all around the CPS's (in and out). Both seams fine. Then checked around the whole VCG. It is kind of moist on all the locations. Not dry as it used to be.
The RTV, http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37467-Black-Performance-Silicone/dp/B000FW7V3C is a good product for VCG? I used a different one last time (orange color).
Last edited by saneesh8; 02-10-2014 at 12:05 PM.
Is silicone gasket sealer necessary when replacing the gasket? If so, what kind should one use?
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