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Thread: My First BMW – My First Swap – LS2/T56 into an E36

  1. #176
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    I have had the same problem many times when trying to solder the OE BMW wiring. I thought it was just me! ;-)

  2. #177
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    Looking at the soldering joints, you did not have enough heat put through the joint for the solder to be absorbed. It looks that all of the solder is on the surface and not absorbed at all. Using flux helps significantly.

    I know it is a pain going back, but I would revisit these joints. They don't look very solid. While they have continuity now, it is very likely that they will not last for too long in the semi-harsh environment the harness is in (heat, drastic temperature changes, and vibration).
    Last edited by bimerok; 03-09-2015 at 10:20 PM.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  3. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Looking at the soldering joints, you did not have enough heat put through the joint for the solder to be absorbed. It looks that all of the solder is on the surface and not absorbed at all. Using flux helps significantly.

    I know it is a pain going back, but I would revisit these joints. They don't look very solid. While they have continuity now, it is very likely that they will not last for too long in the semi-harsh environment the harness is in (heat, drastic temperature changes, and vibration).
    Yeah, that's what I thought when I first started with a 25w soldering iron. Hence my second visit of the day to Home Depot to pick up a 140w soldering gun. You're right, there's not good penetration but I'm absolutely certain I had the wire hot...in fact, too hot, because the insulation started to melt back quite a bit. I even experimented on a few pieces of scrap wire and no matter how hot the wire got, the solder would not flow. It's rosin core solder, which is essentially flux.

    I'm going to leave it as-is for now but if the car ever develops an ABS issue, it'll be the first place I look.

    Tipsy
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 03-09-2015 at 10:45 PM.

  4. #179
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    If you have occasion to ever get another soldering iron, I'd highly recommend a weller. I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...9B2H4XRFSFAE7C

    What I like about it is that it heats up extremely quickly, and self-regulates the temperature you set it to. As a result you are able to put much less heat into the part because you're not waiting for the iron to get hot enough to melt the solder - it's already hot enough. A +1 to flux - it helps with solder flow a ton.

    Thanks for sharing the info about depinning the connectors - that will be useful.
    Last edited by ckpitt55; 03-11-2015 at 03:54 PM.

  5. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by ckpitt55 View Post
    If you have occasion to ever get another soldering iron, I'd highly recommend a weller. I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...9B2H4XRFSFAE7C

    What I like about it is that it heats up extremely quickly, and self-regulates the temperature you set it to. As a result you are able to put much less heat into the part because you're not waiting for the iron to get hot enough to melt the solder - it's already hot enough. A +1 to flux - it helps with solder flow a ton.

    Thanks for sharing the info about depinning the connectors - that will be useful.
    I started that day with a 25w Weller soldering iron and finished the day with this 100w/140w Weller 8200PKS soldering gun. I know it doesn't look like it, but the wire was hot. There's always a chance that different solder would have yielded different results, but I would think any rosin core solder would flow just fine.

    Glad you found the depinning info useful.

    Tipsy

  6. #181
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    Now that explains your results somewhat When I was doing my LS2 swap, I needed to solder positive battery wire while extending it. Not sure what that gauge is, but you know how thick the positive batt cable is. I was trying to use that exact soldering iron set to 140w plus a second 60 or 80 watt iron to help to get the wire hot enough so it would absorb the solder. The best I could get was something similar to your results.

    After being frustrated for 15-20 minutes, I went home and brought the same weller that ckpitt55 posted. Two minutes later I was done soldering battery cable with that tiny nose iron.

    As far as flux core solder goes, it typically barely enough if you solder a pin to a board. It is not even close to being enough for bigger jobs like wires. For that you want to add external flux liberally. It does magic, by deoxidizing the metal that oxidizes almost instantly when heated and it helps to transfer heat also.

    Just be sure you can "easily" access and remove the ABS harness after you have everything in your engine bay, in case you will need to.

    Anyway, keep up with a good progress! You need to be starting your car soon
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  7. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Just be sure you can "easily" access and remove the ABS harness after you have everything in your engine bay, in case you will need to.

    Anyway, keep up with a good progress! You need to be starting your car soon
    I should have tried flux. I didn't have any and didn't feel like making a third trip to the store. I probably should have. At any rate, I can easily remove the harness extension from the car if need be. Hopefully, there will be no need

    On to today's progress. I started the day wresting and sweating with this Harbor Freight "Single action" strut spring compressor.





    After my first attempt using this tool I thought, "hey, this thing is pretty slick!" That was, until I decompressed the spring and realized the tool was pinched between the spring the the strut base. After three plus, frustrating, sweaty hours and multiple attempts at positioning the compressor on the spring, I simply couldn't get the spring to compress enough to thread the top retaining nut onto the strut. Well, that's not entirely true. I was able to get the nut on one time but then, being that this is my first time messing with struts, I screwed up. While the spring was compressed, I tightened the retaining nut too tight and the spring top plate twisted. I now realize the proper method (assuming you can compress the spring far enough to get the nut on) is to only tighten to nut only so far, remove the spring compressor, install the strut into the car and then, with the weight of the car on the strut, tighten the nut the rest of the way. Live and learn.

    Ultimately, I threw in the towel and brought them to the local German car specialist and had him assemble the struts. I also learned, I should have gone to him from the beginning. He had one of those awesome, free standing strut spring compressors; otherwise known as, the right tool for the job! Hey, we all like working on our cars but seriously, there's no reason to struggle with crappy inadequate spring compressors. No exaggeration, he had both done in less than 10 minutes. Lesson learned.

    Next was to use my homemade press to install the LCAB brackets onto the control arm (idea stolen from Understeer). Worked perfectly.

    LCAB Press:



    So, the heat shield is applied to the firewall, the subframe and steering rack are installed and both strut assemblies and king pins are installed. Tip from Bimerok: Install the steering rack retaining bolts from the bottom so they can be removed, if need be, with the engine in place.

    All I need to do is install the tie rods and I've got a roller!

    Tipsy

    Firewall Heat Shield


    Koni Sport Struts w/ H&R Sport Spring and OEM M3 Reinforcement Plates


    Subframe and Steering Rack
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 11-15-2015 at 09:33 PM.

  8. #183
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    So far everything you have done to your car looks very clean, you obviously have a good eye and are executing well. With that said, it's refreshing to see others struggle with seemingly simple jobs like using spring compressors. We have all done it, but it's nice to see someone post about it once in a while. I have the two piece compressors that are about $50, and I've used them successfully over a dozen times. I hate it every time!

    Keep up the good work

  9. #184
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    Great update! Good to see you making such progress.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  10. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1990m3 View Post
    With that said, it's refreshing to see others struggle with seemingly simple jobs like using spring compressors.

    Lol, that's great.

    Nice update. Weather is finally breaking, we should be seeing more progress filled updates soon!

  11. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1990m3 View Post
    So far everything you have done to your car looks very clean, you obviously have a good eye and are executing well. With that said, it's refreshing to see others struggle with seemingly simple jobs like using spring compressors. We have all done it, but it's nice to see someone post about it once in a while. I have the two piece compressors that are about $50, and I've used them successfully over a dozen times. I hate it every time!

    Keep up the good work
    LOL. The place I brought the springs/struts to is five minutes from my house. I seriously pulled over on the way and contemplated turning around, feeling I was giving up too easily. I even said to Victor (the mechanic), "this is a project car, maybe I should go home and try again." He just laughed and waved me over to his proper spring compressor (something very much like this). You have to pick your battles

    Tipsy

  12. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    LOL. The place I brought the springs/struts to is five minutes from my house. I seriously pulled over on the way and contemplated turning around, feeling I was giving up too easily. I even said to Victor (the mechanic), "this is a project car, maybe I should go home and try again." He just laughed and waved me over to his proper spring compressor (something very much like this). You have to pick your battles

    Tipsy
    I hear you with picking your battles. I am currently redoing the way my brake lines pass through the firewall from my ABS to my Wilwood cluster from my first iteration because I just couldn't live with the sloppy first throw together I did. I've been working on my car for a couple of years with a number of interruptions (two kids, new house twice) and the car is always last place. If I wasn't so good at thinking I could do it all myself this would have probably been drivable a while ago. My project is a little bigger than just an engine swap though, but you do have to pick your battles for sure

  13. #188
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    Got the JTR motor mounts installed. This kit uses C4 Corvette rubber mounts that are bridged between the subframe and the frame rail. This is hopefully stronger than mounting only to the subframe and the rubber isolators should result in minimal NVH transmitted through the chassis. The NVH mitigation is basically the reason I chose to go this route. The drivers side mount is about 1/2" farther forward than the pax side. I played with them a bit and for now, this is the best I could get without pulling them too far forward. The engine side mounts have sliders so hopefully, this will not be an issue.

    JTR Mount Installed


    C4 Rubber Mount



    I looked at my notes and there are in fact some pins in the x6031 that I will utilize. After cutting the bracket that holds all three chassis side connectors (because of hydroboost clearance issues), the x6031 was just dangling below the hydroboost (seen blow):

    x6031 Connector


    After a little thought, I came up with a very simple solution. The x69 connector - which is a 23 pin connector - is only populated with 7 pins from the factory on this vehicle. That means there were 16 vacant pin positions. So, since I know how to depin these connectors, I simply removed Pins 1 through 8 from the x6031 (completely eliminating it from the harness) and placed those pins in Positions 8 through 15 in the x69! Super simple and tidy!

    x6031 Depinned


    x69 (on the left) with 8 Additional Pins from the x6031


    No more dangling x6031!


    I also went back to the pick-n-pull today. I got another chassis side x20 connector leaving the leads as long as possible so I can redo the ABS harness extension. I'm just not satisfied with the solder joints. I've got some great soldering tips from this forum and from an aircraft mechanic buddy and feel confident I can do better.

    While I was there, I picked up two mid-90's Volvo 850 fans. If anyone has a simple method to test how much amperage these pull (so I can determine if they're worn out), I started another thread so please post your method here.

    Tipsy

    Volvo 850 Fans
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 11-15-2015 at 09:38 PM.

  14. #189
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    Test for amperage draw with multimeter?

    First video that I found on u tube

    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  15. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Test for amperage draw with multimeter?

    First video that I found on u tube
    I actually saw that video. I'm not sure I can safely put 30+ amps through my little multi-meter?

    Tipsy

  16. #191
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    Sounds like you will need to get resistors involved

    http://www.dutchforce.com/~eforum/in...ic=20058&st=0&
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
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    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  17. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Sounds like you will need to get resistors involved

    http://www.dutchforce.com/~eforum/in...ic=20058&st=0&
    Interesting stuff. Thanks.

    Tipsy

  18. #193
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  19. #194
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    Very nice find and as an added bonus it is cheap too.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  20. #195
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    Let me summarize today's efforts with a single photo which I will title Fargin' Bolt!



    The day started with a modest enough goal; replace the rear shocks with a set of Koni adjustables, install a set of Rouge Engineering RSM's and install the rear H&R Sport springs. I didn't get too far before I realized I'd never ordered replacement rear shock bump stops. The existing ones were nearly gone. In fact, one was gone. So, I called the local dealership and ordered a new set. By the way, I don't know what your experiences have been with your local BMW dealer with regard to parts, but I gotta say, my local dealer is pretty awesome. This is the second time in two weeks that he's ordered parts for me that will arrive the next day and the most I've been charged for the "rush" delivery is an additional $7! And many of the parts I've bought are the same price or even less expensive than I've seen online.

    Anyway, I knew I couldn't get everything installed until tomorrow but I figured I'd get it all taken apart today. As you know, in order to remove the rear shocks and RSM's you have to remove (or nearly remove) the trunk carpet. I did the drivers side with little trouble. On to the passenger side. I'd read it's easier to remove the pax side carpet if you first remove the CD changer. Once I had the CD changer removed I figured, I'm never going to use this thing again. So in the closet it went. I didn't want to lose the bolt and two nuts that hold the CD changer in place, so I began to reinstall them. I got the bolt and washer started - this goes into the metal underneath the rear package tray - but it would tighten fully. I figured the washer rattling around would drive me crazy so I started to remove the bolt. No go. It wouldn't come out. It wouldn't tighten and in wouldn't loosen. It would only spin. I tried the air ratchet, thinking the speed might help. Nope. Just spinning.

    I knew this would drive me crazy so I was determined to get that damn bolt out. As far as I could tell...and I had no way of knowing for sure...the only way to get to the back side of that bolt was to remove the rear package tray. Now, as the title of this thread explains, this is my first BMW. So everything that I do, I'm doing for the first time and learning as I go. For those of you who have never removed the rear package tray, you must first remove the seat bottom, the seat backs, unbolt the seat belts, remove the seat side bolsters, remove the rear side panels, remove the headrests which are secured with clips that are under the rear package tray, remove the C-pillars and C-pillar lights, remove the plastic trim that's secured over the leading edge of the package tray and then and only then, can you remove the rear tray.

    Several times I said to myself, this is crazy! All of this for one bolt? But I was determined. I finally got it all apart and there, underneath a bunch of sound deadening that I did not want to remove, I could see the nutsert that was spinning. I managed to get a pair of Vice Grips on it and then...success! I got the damn bolt out!

    The interior of this car looks brand new but the parcel tray is the one thing shows some age. It's faded, so I guess I can use this as an opportunity to have it reupholstered. That's a bright side to this story, right?

    Isn't working on cars fun!

    Tipsy
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 03-30-2015 at 08:54 AM.

  21. #196
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    Today was not a good day. I've got to leave town tomorrow for at least a couple of weeks, so I wanted to get a few last things accomplished. Yesterday, I finished installing the rear Koni adjustable shocks, H&R Sport springs and Rouge Engineering RSM's. And today I ordered a couple of brake line pieces from Advance to complete the lines from the MC to the ABS pump. Before I put the car back on the ground, I'd like to get the brake system bled. But that'll have to wait til I'm back from traveling. So, I figured I'd get it as close to ready for brake fluid as I could before I leave.

    First thing was to reinstall the brake pedal. I had a mount made for the hydroboost by a guy who's pretty much a hydroboost guru. He'd never done one for an E36 so to make things easier, I sent him a spare brake pedal assembly for mock-up . Elliott returned everything to me with the pedal on the pedal assembly. So today I removed the pedal from the mock-up and brought it out to the car. I've gotten pretty good at working under the dash, especially now that the entire rear interior is removed and I've placed blocks under the rear diff, so I feel more confident moving around inside. I figured this would take just a minute or two.

    Let me say I spent at least 90 minutes trying to get the little retaining clip seated that secures the brake pedal. Trying not to lose my patience, I must have gotten out of the car and placed the clip onto the mock-up pedal assembly at least half a dozen times to see if there was something I was missing. It would clip on the mock-up with hardly any effort. Finally, like a bolt of lightening, it hit me. The damn mock-up pedal assembly has a different diameter shaft than the assembly in the car (just at the very tip). The damn clip was the wrong one! Of course, as soon as I figured this out and located the correct clip, it snapped right into place!. Honestly, I just laughed at myself and continued on with what I was doing.

    Next was to attach the pedal to the hydroboost input shaft. While I was moving things around, I pushed the pedal down and thought to myself, "hey, this is the first time the hydroboost is being actuated by the pedal. Pretty cool." A few seconds later, I thought I heard a muffled "pop." The radio was playing in the garage and I wasn't sure it was anything but I thought I'd better take a look. Ho Lee Shit. There was a cap on the low pressure return nipple and when I pushed the pedal down, some pressure built up and the damn hydroboost SPEWED power steering fluid all over the fender, the windshield, the floor, the frame but worst of all, into the fuse box. I mean it was drenched. Not having any idea what type of fluid Mustangs actually use for power steering, and knowing what brake fluid can do to paint, I went into full on panic mode trying to get things cleaned up as quickly as possible without making things worse. Needless to say, I didn't stop take take many pictures. But when I say it was all over the fuse box, I pulled out every relay and each once had fluid adhering to the base of the relay and to the socket. I tried to dab it up as best I could and then hit it with compressed air.

    There is no doubt in my mind that the spaghetti of wiring that's under the fuse box has fluid on it that I simply can't get to. And I hope this has not created a ticking time bomb of fluid slowly eating away at the wiring insulation. Honestly, I think it's a good thing that I have to leave town. I feel like I got kicked in the balls. Right now, I feel like a freakin' hack and I don't want to do any more damage.

    I snapped one quick pic once my pulse had slowed. The relay socket on the left had already been wiped off when I took this pic:


  22. #197
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    Wow, that's sucks about the mess it made. But look at it on the good side, it was not brake fluid, but regular ATF, which did not kill your paint in an instant like brake fluid would.

    As for the wires, don't worry about it too much, just clean what you can and the rest will be ok. ATF will not eat through wires there and oil does not conduct electricity, so nothig will short. Nor anything will start forming rust there for that matter
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    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  23. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Wow, that's sucks about the mess it made. But look at it on the good side, it was not brake fluid, but regular ATF, which did not kill your paint in an instant like brake fluid would.

    As for the wires, don't worry about it too much, just clean what you can and the rest will be ok. ATF will not eat through wires there and oil does not conduct electricity, so nothing will short. Nor anything will start forming rust there for that matter
    Well, that's good news. I went back out with a can of CRC Electrical Contact cleaner and doused the fuse box, trying to get it under the box where able. I'm glad to hear ATF is relatively harmless. What a mess!

    Tipsy

  24. #199
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    Ouch, I just read the article on the volvo 850 fans, shroud and relay setup. I'll be going that route too.

  25. #200
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    My Cars
    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Back in FL for a few days. Just bent-up the last two brake lines, from the MC to the ABS pump. I noticed on both the stock BMW brakes and the Ford hydroboost setup, the rear brake line from the MC to the ABS pump is larger than the line for the front. I don't recall any mention of this in any build threads but I figured if it was larger from the factory, it would probably be a good idea to replicate that with the new lines. A little easier said than done.

    I measured both the BMW and Ford lines and they appear to be 1/4". AGS has 6mm lines with M12 x 1.0 DIN fittings, so I gave that a go. This would have worked fine if I didn't have to cut the lines to length. The problem is the die in the Eastwood flaring tool is for 1/4" or 6.35mm line. The die would not hold the 6mm line. Next problem is that AGS does not make metric DIN fittings for 1/4" line. Nor do they make pre-flared 1/4" lines with metric DIN/bubble fittings. After some creative Googling, I located these BrakeQuip M12 x 1.0 1/4" DIN tube fittings. I bought a preflared 1/4" AGS line, cut the ends and flared with the 1/4" 6.35mm DIN die and used the BrakeQuip tube nuts.

    Tomorrow, the Motive Products adapter for the Ford MC will be here, so I can bleed the system and check for leaks.

    Any tips on how to fully bleed the system to make sure the ABS pump is properly primed?

    Tipsy





    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 05-12-2018 at 01:05 PM.

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