Out of all the places I've seen them mounted, I like that place the best. The Alpina B8's also use Hydroboost. I've spoken to Pirtek, they can fab up some custom hard lines to bridge the gap between the valve and where they enter the firewall. Should look nice and clean when it's done.
1988 911 - Carb'd - Twin Plug - 3.6
1999 SL 500
2016 4Runner TEP - Gone
1995 M3 - LS2 - Gone
1998 M3 - Gone
1991 M5 - Gone
1993 RS America - Gone
1995 M3 - Gone
If you do a Google search for "Alpina B8 engine" you'll be able to see where it's mounted. Mine is going to be mounted close the where they did it. Not exactly the same place due to different, more bulky hydraulic lines used on my car.
1988 911 - Carb'd - Twin Plug - 3.6
1999 SL 500
2016 4Runner TEP - Gone
1995 M3 - LS2 - Gone
1998 M3 - Gone
1991 M5 - Gone
1993 RS America - Gone
1995 M3 - Gone
I'm back in FL for a few days and struggled with those chrome trim rings for another couple of hours. And then gave up. I took a chance that not all cheap Chinese crap on eBay is created equal and ordered a second set of trim rings from another seller.
Success! This set of cheap Chinese crap snapped right in! Okay, there was one spot where I needed to remove a tiny bit of material (from the cluster housing) with small piece of emery cloth, but other than that they snapped in 1000% easier than the first set. In fact, I think for some extra peace of mind, I'll dab a little super-glue on the back of the rings.
The rings that didn't fit well came from eBay seller sogaimport_inc (shipped from California).
The rings that fit well came from Euromotorsport (shipped from Taiwan).
Tipsy
LOL Success with the battle of the rings!
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Still too hot in the garage to get any real work done but I'm anxious for progress so today I removed the air bag/steering wheel and the stock cluster. I know it's not necessary to remove the steering wheel to remove the cluster but (1) I have a nice Euro steering wheel I picked up while in Germany from eBay seller Tainik, so the stock wheel needed to come off any way. And (2) it'll make it easier to do the electrical work that needs to be done to the cluster harness (repin for the Euro oil temp gauge and tap into the fuel level circuit for the EVAP system). I'm also replacing the steering lock assembly and the upper steering bearing.
I connected the Euro cluster and ran the self test cycle. I has happy to see that it seems to be functioning properly. Returning it to Northern Ireland would have been a pain.
Now that I know that the Euro cluster appears to work properly, I'm going to bring it to a local speedometer guy who told me he can reprogram the odometer to match my actual mileage. Why am I doing this? Simply because I want to It would drive me nuts knowing the indicated mileage was not accurate.
Now for a dumb question. The Euro M3 cluster has an "M" logo located where the USA cluster has the "ASC" warning. It appears the "M" can be back lit, even though there was no bulb in that location when I received the Euro cluster. (Incidentally, there was no bulb in the "Check Engine" location either. I'll get some extra bulbs and install one in the "check engine" location.) Since our swaps no longer have functioning ASC, I know most install a resistor to "fool" the computer into thinking ASC is still functional. Is the resistor necessary for the ABS to function properly? Or is it simply to keep the "ASC" warning light in the cluster from illuminating? If it's just for the warning light, I thought I might install a bulb behind the "M" logo and let it stay illuminated all the time. If the resistor is required for proper ABS operation, then obviously, I'll install the resistor.
Tipsy
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 06-23-2016 at 09:32 PM.
If I remember correctly the ASC also takes ABS with it... You can do the resistor or just leave the sollinoid connected in place.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
also known as the "it's running and I don't care about it anymore" list!
The one wire update:
While I was traveling this week, I had a Philly layover and Bimerok was nice enough to drive into the city to meet up for a bit. Seeing his running car was inspiring. I'm back in FL and it's still 90 degress (hotter in my garage) but I wanted to accomplish something today. So, I figured out how to disassemble the X16 and X17 instrument cluster connectors so I could make a pin swap.
I removed Pin 13 (GN/RT) from X17 (blue connector) and moved it to the vacant Pin 13 location in X16 (white connector). Pin 13 in X17 goes to X6031-3 (also GN/RT). Location 13 in X16 is the oil temp input for the Euro cluster. So, without having to fish any new wires through the firewall, the oil temp sensor can be wired to X6031-3 and I should have a functioning oil temp gauge in the Euro cluster.
Thanks to LovnBMWs for the info and Bimerok for taking the time to meet with me in Philly.
Tipsy
No problems. Glad you're taking first steps towards wiring .
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Last night I was trying to make my one wire update a two wire update. I remember Tongboy made a cut in the OBD2 connector to move Pin #7 to the vacant #2 location. I wanted to try to do this without cutting the connector but couldn't get the pin to release. I just went out and messed with it a bit more and managed to release the pin.
You'll need Lisle 14900 pin removal tool. It's only a few dollars. There's a small grey tab/locking plate on the side of the OBD2 connector that needs to be slid out for the pin to release. The locking plate does not slid all the way out. It only slides about halfway. It took a while messing with it but the smallest/thinnest "pick" on the Lisle tool did the trick.
Tipsy
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 10-27-2018 at 05:10 PM.
Had the Euro cluster odometer adjusted today to reflect the actual chassis mileage. For some reason, he wasn't able to set the exact number but he got it within 30 miles, which is good enough for government work, as they say. I had it done locally at DNA Speedometers. You can ship your cluster to them, if you're not local.
Original Stock Cluster
Euro cluster - mileage as it arrived from Northern Ireland
Euro Cluster - odometer adjusted
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 06-23-2016 at 09:36 PM.
I didn't drive this car very much prior to pulling the engine but since I've owned it, the steering lock hasn't worked. In other words, with the key removed you could turn the steering wheel 360 degrees without the lock engaging. In fact, I've got a new column lock mechanism sitting on the shelf.
When I removed the front subframe and steering rack, I disconnected the steering shaft from the rack but left it hanging from the column, where it attaches at the firewall. I'm replacing the steering shaft with one from an E46, so the E36 shaft needed to go. After I loosened the pinch bolt, the steering shaft wouldn't slide off the splined column shaft. A small hammer provided a bit of persuasion. While tapping with the hammer, for the first time since I've owned the car, the column lock engaged! I inserted the key into the ignition and the lock disengaged, as it should. When I removed the key and spun the shaft, the lock did not engage. The steering shaft still needed a few taps and in doing so, the column locked again.
I'm not sure how the column lock mechanism functions but providing that force (as if you were seated in the car attempting to push the steering wheel forward) somehow worked the lock into its detent. No matter, as I'm going to replacing the lock housing, but I thought that was interesting. It seems most E36 have the opposite problem; the lock engages and will not disengage.
The car also sounded the door-open chime even when there was no key in the ignition (and the headlights switched off), so I'm hoping the new lock housing corrects that as well.
Tipsy
The column lock is in the lock cylinder housing. If you dissemble and clean the mechanism it will probably work fine. It's not difficult to take apart. The worst part is the 2 "bolts" that have a smooth head that have to be removed. I used an air powered cut off wheel to cut a slot in to them. A flat head screw driver made quick work of removing the bolts. From there it's pretty straight forward.
Build looks good Tipsy!
I'd like to keep the EVAP functional. I know that LovnBMWs & Tongboy were successful in doing so with LS1 computers. I don't know of anyone who has done the same with the LS2's E40 PCM. LovnBMWs PM'd that he used a 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor to correct the BMW's fuel level signal to a value the LS1 PCM could work with.
Here's where I'm getting confused. As best I can tell, the BMW fuel level signal is as follows:
Empty: 10 Ω
Full: 250 Ω
But I read there are Left & Right level senders wired in series for a combined nominal value of Empty 20 Ω & Full 500 Ω. Looking at the diagram on RealOEM for my '98 238iS, I really can't decipher whether there are in fact two level sensors. It appears to be just one?
The GTO fuel level signal is as follows:
Empty 250 Ω
Full: 40Ω
I've checked these numbers several times and it looks like the BMW has a low figure for Empty (10 Ω or 20Ω in series) while the GTO has a high figure for Empty (250Ω). If that's accurate, it seems the signal provided to the GM computer would be opposite of what the PCM is expecting (full when empty and vice versa)?
Any help in clarifying all of this is greatly appreciated!
Tipsy
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 10-18-2014 at 06:12 PM.
Tipsy,
I can confirm that there are (2) senders, one on each side of the sump. When I upgraded to a dual pump setup using (2) passenger side hangers (one in each side) the gauge would only show full to half when the driver side sender was unplugged (tank could be empty, 1/4, 3/8, etc and it would always show 1/2). After both were plugged in, the full to zero function of the gauge sweep was restored. I can't remember if it worked properly from full to half and stuck at half, or if it always stayed at half regardless of fuel level.
I hope this makes sense and helps you solve your puzzle!
Tipsy
Your numbers look vaguely similar to what I found on my E39. I'll need to dig through old notes to confirm. You could give my Uno circuit and code an whirl. Worst case, the resistance equations would need some tweaking. I really need to post something in my thread for reference.
540i-LS3-TR6060 swap thread
Sounds like you could use something like an inverting op-amp here to basically invert your sensor output - but you need to be looking at output voltages rather than resistances across terminals in order to size your resistors and get the appropriate gain. Unfortunately I don't have any experience doing this myself....maybe PM BRAAP? He seemed to be good with this kind of stuff.
Thanks Unnatrl. I guess that's why LovnBMW's needed the 100 ohm 1/2W resistor. I assume that brings the BMW fuels level signal closer to the 40 ohm Empty - 250 ohm Full values that the 411 PCM is expecting to see. This is so frustrating because the GTO generates nearly the same values as the F Body, only they are opposite (250 ohms Full - 40 ohms Empty).
Thanks ZR...any help is appreciated. I definitely plan to get with you and Thaniel for the Uno solution for the A/C request but I didn't think I'd have to get that technical for the EVAP, nor am I sure I want to. I just found a thread that suggests the fuel level signal values could possibly be adjusted with HP Tuners. The thread verifies they can in fact be adjusted in the LS1 computer but no one ever verified if they could also be adjusted in the LS2's E40 PCM. Here's the thread. I bumped it hoping for reply.
I'll have to do some Googling. I have no idea what an op-amp is. Thanks for the suggestion!
Tipsy
I browsed that thread...it seems like what they're doing is calibrating / adjusting the sensitivity of the gauge cluster reaction to the sensor input - it's not adjusting the sensor output resistance itself. Maybe there's something I'm missing but it doesn't seem like you could communicate with or adjust the analog e36 cluster with hp tuners
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