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Thread: My First BMW – My First Swap – LS2/T56 into an E36

  1. #26
    Join Date
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    JTR Engine Mounts arrived today.



  2. #27
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    '02 540i/6
    Looking great so far. I just got my 5.3 LM7 today, going to try out the cxracing mounts and see how they go. Look forward to seeing your build completed! I'm going with a similar suspension setup, the Bilstein B12 Kit, uses Eibach springs instead of H&R which I think should ride a little more comfortably.
    2002 BMW Titanium Silver 540i/6-speed Sport - ZHP Shift Knob - M5 Clutch/TTV Racing 15.6lb Flywheel - M60 Intake Manifold - N62 84mm TB - Dinan Intake Tube - 4" MAF Tube - DUDMD Tune - Magnaflow Resonator - Eibach 18mm Rear Sway Bar - Powerflex Front Sway Bar Bushings - CDV Delete - UUC SS Brake Lines - Koni Yellow Shocks/Struts - Eibach Springs - Zionsville Radiator & FDM

  3. #28
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    I'd like to put power on the car, so I can lower the windows a bit and move the seat to access the bolts that secure the seat to floor.

    There is no engine harness in the car. Can I apply 12V (using an emergency jumpstarter, for example) by simply connecting to the main fusebox lug (red arrow) and a ground?

    If so, do I need to be concerned about airbags or take any other precautions?

    Thanks.

    Tipsy



  4. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Pittsburgh
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    99 M3 LS1, '11 WRX
    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    I'd like to put power on the car, so I can lower the windows a bit and move the seat to access the bolts that secure the seat to floor.

    There is no engine harness in the car. Can I apply 12V (using an emergency jumpstarter, for example) by simply connecting to the main fusebox lug (red arrow) and a ground?

    If so, do I need to be concerned about airbags or take any other precautions?

    Thanks.

    Tipsy
    I've just run a jumper from the terminal block on the passenger side of the bay over to the fusebox. Works fine, no problems with the airbags.

  5. #30
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by ckpitt55 View Post
    I've just run a jumper from the terminal block on the passenger side of the bay over to the fusebox. Works fine, no problems with the airbags.
    Okay...so, same theory...except you just utilized the ships battery in the trunk via a temporary jumper from one side of the engine bay to the other.

    Dumb question, but have you turned the key "on" in this configuration (with no engine harness in the car)? I just don't want to do anything stupid

    Tipsy


  6. #31
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    Jul 2010
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    Kansas City, MO
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    1993 E36 6.0L
    You can do that either way. I did the jump box on the fuse block lug and ground. You can turn the key on and be ok.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdsq98gt View Post
    You can do that either way. I did the jump box on the fuse block lug and ground. You can turn the key on and be ok.
    Good to know.

    Thanks.

    Tipsy

  8. #33
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Picked up a couple of X20 style connectors to make an ABS pump extension harness. $6 at the pick-n-pull...gotta love it. I think I got one half from a seven series and the other from an E36, but they're the same type of connector and need to be completely repinned anyway.

    I'm sure it's buried in one of the electrical threads but where have you guys been sourcing your pins for these connectors?

    Also, for those of you who are using an F-Body T-56 and are in need of a E36 3.91 LSD, I know of one in the Clearwater (FL) area. PM me and I'll hook you up. After playing with the gearing calculator, it looks like a 3.23 will wok better with my GTO T56.

    Won't be too much progress in the near future; I'll be on the road for at least the next three weeks.

    Tipsy


  9. #34
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480
    My car has a GTO T56 and I was much happier with the 3.91 gears. Optimal would have been a 3.64 or 3.73. I fear you will find the 3.23 gear too tall.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    My car has a GTO T56 and I was much happier with the 3.91 gears. Optimal would have been a 3.64 or 3.73. I fear you will find the 3.23 gear too tall.
    Hmmm...not sure what to do. Using a 245/40/17 tires size and GTO T56 ratios, 3.23 calculates to 80 MPH in 6th gear at 2000 RPM; and 50 MPH at 1250 RPM.

    With a 3.91 those numbers become 66 MPH at 2000 RPM; and 41 MPH at 1250 RPM.

    Tipsy

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    Hmmm...not sure what to do. Using a 245/40/17 tires size and GTO T56 ratios, 3.23 calculates to 80 MPH in 6th gear at 2000 RPM; and 50 MPH at 1250 RPM. With a 3.91 those numbers become 66 MPH at 2000 RPM; and 41 MPH at 1250 RPM. Tipsy
    I hear you in the rpm. I didn't build mine for a daily driver that gets max mpg...

    Keep in mind the GTO has a 3.46 ratio from the factory.
    Last edited by unnatrl; 04-26-2014 at 03:13 PM.

  12. #37
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    Mar 2004
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    I hear you in the rpm. I didn't build mine for a daily driver that gets max mpg...

    Keep in mind the GTO has a 3.46 ratio from the factory.
    Don't forget that GTO has taller tires with that diff so you compare apples to oranges. The 3.23 diff is perfect medium between great MPG on highway and track ratio. The 3.38 would be the Max I would go on fbody t56.

    With GTO being quicker ratio gearbox, I will have to see when I install mine, but i doubt I would want to consider 3.38 with it.

    Again diff ratios are very personal and everybody likes different. You need to try few before you can decide which one you will like
    Last edited by bimerok; 04-26-2014 at 05:31 PM.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  13. #38
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    I hear you in the rpm. I didn't build mine for a daily driver that gets max mpg...

    Keep in mind the GTO has a 3.46 ratio from the factory.
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Don't forget that GTO has taller tires with that diff so you compare apples to oranges. The 3.23 diff is perfect medium between great MPG on highway and track ratio. The 3.38 would be the Max I would go on fbody t56.

    With GTO being quicker ratio gearbox, I will have to see when I install mine, but i doubt I would want to consider 3.38 with it.

    Again diff ratios are very personal and everybody likes different. You need to try few before you can decide which one you will like
    I appreciate the discussion. It's good to consider varying perspectives.

    I really have no idea how I'll use it once it's done. Right now, it's more about the project than the end result. I travel so much (by air) that even my daily driver is hardly a daily driver; it'll be four years old in June and just cracked 17K miles. So I'm not overly concerned with achieving the best possible mileage. Like I explained to Martin at Tick when he spec'd my cam...I want to enjoy driving this thing. I don't want to be 30 minutes into a drive and feel compelled to put the car back in the garage. That's more than half the reason I'm using JTR's kit. I believe the rubber mounts will make for a more enjoyable end result...at least when driven on the street.

    I think I'll pass on the 3.91 for now and keep a look out for a 3.23. Until I drive it, all I have to go on is the math, and 3.23 seems like it'll be better for me.

    Tipsy
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 04-26-2014 at 05:45 PM.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Columbia, MD
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    96 M3 TT LSx
    Keep whatever diff you have and run that first and then go from there. I had a 3.23 and switched to a 3.91 and I enjoy it much more now - however I have an f-body t56, huge cam and heavy ass clutch so I reallly enjoyed the change to the shorter gears. Swapping the diff out only takes 30-45 mins. Get the rest of the swap up and running first, then you can tweak everything else to your liking

    Sucks you're so far away, I've got a 3.23 diff sitting in my garage looking for a good home. Front is tapped for a M14x1.5 though, so if you're sticking with stock bushings and whatnot that's not gonna work for you anyways.
    Last edited by sdobart; 04-26-2014 at 08:04 PM.
    96 M3 | Forged LSx | Twin S366 | Injector Dynamics | E85 | AEM Infinity
    90 Schwarz 325i

    IG : sdobart

  15. #40
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    In the interest of making things more difficult than they need to be, I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion for CAD design freeware...that's easy to use for someone with ZERO CAD experience? And also, looking for someplace that can create a one-off aluminum CNC'd part from said CAD design, for a reasonable cost?

    I'd like to create an aluminum bracket for the Mustang hydroboost unit, very similar to the one pictured below (this one is for a GM "A" Body). As you can see, the retaining nut is recessed in the back of the bracket and there is a key-way to "clock" the hydroboost correctly. I'm not sure, but I might need to offset the center hole a bit in order to clear the strut tower. In any case, I was thinking I could mock something up from wood, and then transfer the dimensions into CAD and have it fabbed.

    Tipsy






  16. #41
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    Apr 2013
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    94 BMW 325is
    If you have all the dimensions, making that in cad would be pretty easy. I think autodesk is free with a school email. Solidworks is about $100 for a year with a school email and Pro/E is just expensive. I personally like solidworks since there is all kinds of youtube help. Are you just looking for a part model to give to a company to make?

    I've got an 05' gto ls2/T56... My car is a 94' 325is with I believe the 3.23 or 3.15 or something diff. The main thing that I am concerned with is that it is an open differential and I am pretty sure you will have the same problem. I think only the M3's came with LSD. With this said, my 3.23 gearing is wonderful in my opinion. I am running 225/40/18 tires so about a 8-8.5 inch wide tread pattern (depending on tire) and second gear grips without any problems, no one tire fire (not dumping the clutch). at 60 MPH i am right around 1400-1450 RPM in 6th gear. I can double check 70 MPH highway if you want. Either way, mine is a daily driver and with a stock engine but tuned ECU I am around 25.5 MPG highway and about 20 in town. I haven't autox'd yet since I am waiting on new tires but I would probably be in second gear only. my second tops around 65 to 70 mph but still has good power around 2000 rpm at the bottom end.

    I believe there is a way to make the ABS still work without the BMW dme. Putting a resistor in the secondary throttle motor plug will trick the ABS module to think its still there. This turns off the light on the dash but not sure if it still works. Haven't tested that far yet.

    Great looking build so far. I'm definitely jealous of all of you with lifts.

  17. #42
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by sweetcorn360 View Post
    If you have all the dimensions, making that in cad would be pretty easy. I think autodesk is free with a school email. Solidworks is about $100 for a year with a school email and Pro/E is just expensive. I personally like solidworks since there is all kinds of youtube help. Are you just looking for a part model to give to a company to make?
    Thanks for the info. Yes, if I can come up with a design, I'd like to provide the CAD file to someone who can actually make the part.

    Quote Originally Posted by sweetcorn360 View Post
    I've got an 05' gto ls2/T56... My car is a 94' 325is with I believe the 3.23 or 3.15 or something diff. The main thing that I am concerned with is that it is an open differential and I am pretty sure you will have the same problem. I think only the M3's came with LSD.
    My stock diff is an open 2.93. There were LSD's on non "M" cars. I believe they were installed on cars with the "inclement weather" (winter) package with auto transmissions, before ASC was introduced. I will get an LSD eventually. I'm always keeping my eyes open.

    Quote Originally Posted by sweetcorn360 View Post
    I believe there is a way to make the ABS still work without the BMW dme. Putting a resistor in the secondary throttle motor plug will trick the ABS module to think its still there. This turns off the light on the dash but not sure if it still works. Haven't tested that far yet.
    The ABS operates independent of the DME. You're right. From what I've read, installing a resistor will prevent the dash light from illuminating.

    Quote Originally Posted by sweetcorn360 View Post
    Great looking build so far. I'm definitely jealous of all of you with lifts.
    Thanks. I wish the lift were mine. It belongs to the guys who bought my stock engine.

    Tipsy

  18. #43
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    If you get your demensions, pm me. I should be able to use pro/e at my work, otherwise my brother has solidworks student version in his computer. Something like that might take an hour tops.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by sweetcorn360 View Post
    If you get your demensions, pm me. I should be able to use pro/e at my work, otherwise my brother has solidworks student version in his computer. Something like that might take an hour tops.
    Will do. Thanks!

    Tipsy

  20. #45
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    Finally back home. While I was traveling, I ordered a bunch of parts. Reading about E36 suspensions is enough to make your head spin. In the end, I decided to go with H&R Sport springs and Koni adjustable struts and shocks. I have no idea how I'll end up using this car but for the time being, I didn't see the need for any kind of coil-over setup. I'm hoping the Sport springs result in a nice stance. I don't want it "slammed" but I don't want that ugly gap between the tire and fender lip. We shall see. I also ordered an Improved Racing oil pan baffle. Again, I don't know if I'll get into autocross, but I figured I might as well install the baffle now, while it's easy.






    The JTR kit requires modifying the front subframe to accept their motor mounts (see here). I decided to buy a spare subframe to modify rather than to disassemble the front suspension, leaving the car immobile any longer than necessary...and also risk screwing up my only subframe. Good decision because I was ham-handed and screwed up my first attempt at making the necessary cuts. I thought about my approach and gave it another try on the other end of the subframe (knowing this one was now junk and having little to lose). My second try came out much better. So, I bought yet another front subframe (they're not too expensive) and got to work on it today. I think it came out pretty damn good. My tool of choice was a 4 1/2" DeWalt angle grinder with a metal cutoff disc to make the cuts and a 40 grit flapper disc to grind it smooth. Those flapper discs rock!












    Today, I ordered Lemforder tie rods and '95 M3 Lemforder lower control arms. I have to disassemble the entire front end for the subframe modification so I figured I might as well reassemble it with all new bits.

    Over the next couple of days, I'll finish the subframe modifications and get to work swapping the cam, valve springs and oil pan on the LS2.

    Tipsy

  21. #46
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    Cool

    Continuing with the subframe modification. Needed to open two holes in the subframe to allow a wrench to get inside so the motor mount fasteners can be properly secured. JTR calls for making these openings 1" x 2" but I made them slightly smaller. I have some plastic plugs I want to use to cap the opening once everything is installed and the plugs needed an opening just a bit smaller than 1" x 2".

    I made a small cardboard template, drilled four holes and made the cuts with a pneumatic body saw. I then trued and deburred with a hand file and a right angle die grinder.






  22. #47
    Join Date
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Much nicer cuts this time around!
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Much nicer cuts this time around!
    LOL...thanks but all of those pics are of my "good" work. I didn't post a pic of the cut I screwed-up on the first subframe I'd never used an angle grinder much...there's a learning curve for everything

    Tipsy

    - - - Updated - - -

    I finished modifying the subframe to accept the JTR motor mounts. Next tool on the wishlist is a drill press. I was really meticulous and took my time but in the end, the holes I drilled still were not-spot on. I had to make them a bit oblong, but it's no big deal and not entirely unexpected. This is the exact verbiage from the JTR installation page: If the 3/8 holes drilled into the subframe are not properly located, use a file or die grinder to elongate the holes to the proper location."

    I'll probably have the subframe sandblasted and powder coated.

    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 06-04-2014 at 08:20 PM.

  24. #49
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    Today's update: This Tool Rocks.

    It's ridiculous how much discussion there is on how best to remove the balancer. I realize not everyone wants to spend $53 on a tool that will see limited use...but it simply works and works well. The tool that my local Autozone had available for rent was junk.

    The front of the engine is disassembled, valve covers removed and cam is going in tomorrow. Decided to have the subframe, engine mounts and valve covers powder coated, so I'll drop them off Tuesday. Monday, I'm fishing

    Tipsy

    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 06-06-2014 at 06:39 PM.

  25. #50
    Join Date
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    1998 M3/4/5
    If you plan on doing M3 suspension you should return those struts and get blown ones from a m3 and the koni inserts. Non-m struts don't have the M swaybar mounting points.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

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