Got home last night. I'm going to open the drivers side of the fuel tank, remove the fuel siphon assembly and try to remove the rest of the old fuel.
Dumb question; is the hose that transfers/siphons fuel from the drivers side to the pax side inside the tank or on top (outside) the tank? In other words, will I be able to simply lift-out and remove the siphon assembly once the retaining ring is removed or will there be a hose inside the tank holding the siphon assembly captive?
TIA.
Tipsy
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
Like Schitzo mentioned it's inside, but if you will need to remove the level assembly out of the tank, that transfer hose just unclips from the assembly fairly easy.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
I'm either more thorough than I give myself credit for and intentionally ran the fuel level down to near empty prior to tearing the car apart. Or, a significant amount of fuel evaporated while the car has been sitting.
I had one of those (apparently no longer available) Harbor Freight drill pumps in the garage, so I spent way too much time piecing together adapters to go from 3/4" ID hose to 3/8" ID hose. I accessed the drivers side of the tank, dropped the hose in and pulled the trigger. Nothing. I figured either the hose was curling in the tank and was not submerged or the pump wasn't working. I loosely cable-tied the hose to a stick and stuck it into the can of fuel I'd already pumped out. It took a little while to prime but eventually, it pumped quite well.
Before trying it on the car a second time, I peered into the tank as best I could with a flashlight. I could see the bottom of the tank! Just to be sure, I stuck a clean dipstick (aka - screwdriver) in the tank and confirmed. Yep, the drivers side of the tank was just about empty.
Drill Pump
Loosely attached cable ties to keep the hose from curling
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 02-03-2018 at 09:37 AM.
Got the FPR installed. When I pull-up many of these part numbers on Amazon, it shows the purchase date. Ouch! Thanks for the added motivation, Amazon It's nice to start getting some parts off the shelf.
I shortened the hard return-line and double clamped the 5/16" hose since the shortened line no longer has a flare. After I installed the 3/8" supply line, I decided to double clamp that as well because it looked like the 3/8" fuel injection hose is actually a bit larger than the BMW hard line. Better safe than sorry. Hopefully this will be adequate. If not, I'll find out in spectacular fashion.
BMW hard return line shortened. The line that still has a factory flare is the supply FROM the tank.
3/8" FI hose and 5/16" FI hose double clamped with Dorman 800-120 & 800-121 push-lock connectors on Wix 33737 FPR/Filter
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 01-24-2018 at 01:20 PM.
Got another part off the shelf. For some reason, I've been a little nervous about installing the balancer. There's lots of conflicting info online regarding installation technique and all kinds of horror stories about stripped crank threads, etc.
The balancer I used is a PowerBond Street Series, which I chose because it's made in Australia, just like my Holden LS2. Just kidding. I bought it is simply because it is supposedly better than stock and it was quite a bit less expensive than some of the big dollar balancers. I also bought the Hawks balancer installation tool a long, long, time ago and finally got to use it today.
I lubed both the inside and outside surfaces of the balancer with assembly lube and placed it on the crank snout. I oiled the threads of the installation tool and cranked it down until it stopped. I then removed the installation tool and installed the OLD crank bolt, which is torqued to 240 ft. lbs.
The old bolt is then removed and the new bolt is installed and torqued to 37 ft lbs (which takes almost no effort to achieve). I marked 140 degrees on the bolt-head eye-balling it as best I could and tightened the new bolt with the breaker bar. Doing this completely reminded me of the fact that I have not yet fully tightened the motor mount bolts because the engine moved about 1/2" to the drivers side as I was cranking the breaker bar.
I didn't want to go crazy and I got my eye-balled mark within about 10 degrees, so I'm calling it done.
PowerBond Street Series
Made Down Under
Hawks Balancer Installation Tool
Installed
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 01-24-2018 at 03:48 PM.
A while back, I bought a stock (used) E36 automatic transmission cooler with the intent of using it as a power steering cooler. I'm running hydroboost, so I definitely want the additional cooling capacity. I'm starting to plan my power steering hoses and just today realized that the connections to the trans cooler are not threaded. The factory auto-trans hard lines have a recessed flare and they are secured to the cooler with a retaining "block" with a bolt through it.
Even if I could find a way to replicate those flares, the securing "block" is not a separate part number. It's integral to one of the hard lines and appears that it's slid onto the line before the flare is made at the factory.
I guess I can find set of used lines, cut them up and splice new hoses onto them. Or, I could find a way to replicate those flares and then fabricate a similar retaining block. Or I can go with a generic aftermarket cooler (Bimerok ).
Just wanted to get some thoughts. You guys are full of good ideas.
Tipsy
Retaining Block
Flared line and captive retaining block
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 01-25-2018 at 06:19 PM.
I think if you can find a used set of lines, that would be the easiest. However I'm not sure about the diameter and how it compares to your system. Make sure that they are not too restrictive or you will affect the circulation.
Second option is just to get a generic cooler.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Tipsy: Making progress! The regulator details is very helpful. Our car is not making progress...just more miles piling on!
Your posts are encouraging! Thanks.
I'm finally done reading this whole thread. I thought Tipsy McStagger sounded familiar. I'm a long time poster over at GJ. Nice clean build, well thought out. I've enjoyed the read. I'm still looking for a nice clean chassis. Thanks for the inspiration. Keith
I found some #8 o-ring A/C fittings I could theoretically adapt but I'd still have to make the retainer piece. I might just go with a generic cooler.
Like I've always said, I wouldn't have gotten this far without the information others have posted. So I'm happy if what I've posted will help others.
Yeah, I'm lazy. I've used this name on way too many forums. It was easier for me to remember at the time but today's password managers kind of make it a moot point.
I'm working on coming up with a plan for my hydroboost/power steering lines. I'm kind of at a point where I'm worried that if I plump/wire/route one thing, I'll find out later that what I've done is in the way of something else down the road. But I guess I just have to move forward and if I have to redo something (cough; brake lines), so be it.
I VERY carefully deconstructed the hose end from the stock power steering hose. I'd never taken one of these apart but I went slowly with the cutoff wheel while removing the crimp and was successful. Unfortunately, there's no way that bend is going to work for my routing. I need to route the hose from the rack up to the hydroboost. I bought a different E36 hose on eBay to see if that end works any better. It hasn't arrived yet.
In the mean time, I bought a steel M14 -6an "long neck" banjo on eBay. This fitting is about 3.2mm thicker than the stock BMW banjo, so I'm concerned the stock hollow bolt will be too short. I have no experience with -AN/JIC stuff and I really want to avoid any leaks in the system...especially at the rack. This will be really tough to access once the car is back together. I'm going to buy a hollow bolt from the same eBay supplier. I'm assuming the length of that bolt will be compatible with this fitting.
Deconstructed OE Hose End
Closeup of hose end
I very carefully cut four slits in the stock crimp and peeled it back like a banana.
"Long neck" M14 -6AN Banjo Fitting
About 3.2mm thicker than the stock banjo fitting
The hose will need to snake up from here to the hydroboost unit
If the E36 is like the E39 then the supply solid line is close to 5/16" which wouldn't work with a 3/8" hose. The lack of a barb also increases chances of failure even when double clamped. I'd recommend revising that setup.
Here is what I did if you are interested.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...3#post29689503
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
This is the one I used
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...15946/10002/-1
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
I got one of the power steering/hydroboost hoses made. Three trips to the hose maker with a piece of bent clothes hanger and I'm quite pleased with the result. It looks pretty factory at the hydroboost. At the rack, I decided to use the long neck M14 banjo bolt rather than crimping a factory hose end. Having two pieces down there makes it easier to install.
I left it a little long at the rack so it would loop away from the alternator.
I have to make the hose from the power steering pump to the hydroboost but that will have to wait. I have to travel tomorrow.
Custom 3000psi hose
Very happy with how these bends came out
Wow, 4 years, still going, and not giving up. I am beyond busy and spread thin as well, but hope someday to try something like this if I can organize life to allow a little spare time and money. This is inspiring.
Stubbornness is a virtue....
Yeah...four years on the calendar but there have been numerous stretches of months where I barely touched it. It's getting closer
Glad to hear it's inspiring. I know I post a lot of minutia but (1) it helps me remember how I've done things and (2) I've gotten lot of help from those on this forum, so I hope what I post might help the next guy.
Tipsy
Tipsy: looks factory. Took me 25 years to restore my Nova...4 years is nothing. Keep posting the details-we need them! Thanks.
I got the line from the PS pump to the hydroboost made today. It took four trips to the hose shop (about 20-25 minute drive each way). This process would be way easier if I could either bend the 3/8" steel line at home or bring the car to the hose shop. My bending tools are out on loan and even if I had them, I doubt I could use hand tools to bend this steel line. The hose shop uses a hydraulic bender. I'll probably trailer the car to the hose shop when I get going on the A/C lines but it was too much hassle for the PS lines.
My first plan was to install this Earl's fitting into the power steering pump. But I ordered it while I was traveling and didn't realize the tall fitting would interfere with the return line on the reservoir. So that was out.
I then cut a 16mm banjo from one of the discarded stock BMW power steering lines and was going to use that to connect to the PS pump, but the BMW banjo bolt was too long to seat into the pump. I looked online for a shorter bolt but I couldn't find anything.
In the end, I decided to use a M16X1.5 tube nut at the power steering pump, just as I did at the hydroboost. I would have liked to have routed the hard line from the pump more cleanly but the bends required to do so were too difficult to accomplish running back and forth to the hose shop. In the end, my primary concern was keeping it clear of the header, which it is.
It came out okay and should be fine as it is but I had intended for the rubber hose to loop under the brake lines that run from the ABS pump to the underside of the master cylinder. Unfortunately, I made the soft hose about 1/4"-1/2" too short. When routed under the brake lines, there wasn't enough slack to seat the M18X1.5 tube nut at the hydroboost. It was ever so slightly off kilter and wouldn't thread. I did NOT want risk it being cross threaded. So, I routed the hose between the brake lines which gave me enough slack to seat the tube nut at the HB. Not exactly what I wanted but I think it will be okay.
High Pressue Line from PS Pump to HB
Hose routed under the brake lines, as I intended. I couldn't seat the tube nut at the HB like this
You can just make out that the tube-nut is ever so slightly offset. It would not seat in the HB and there wasn't enough play in the hose to move it into a better position
The bend in the hard line easily clears the return nipple on the reservoir. I will actually be using an aluminum reservoir with two return bungs, rather than teeing both returns into a single line
View at HB from above
New crows foot flare-nut wrenches. Awesome tool! I could not tighten the tube-nuts at the HB or PS pump without these. There wasn't any room to swing a regular flare-nut wrench
You can see the hose routed between the brake lines in this pic. Not what I'd intended. oh well.
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 02-22-2018 at 06:57 PM.
Really neat looking.
As for towing your car for the AC lines, I would just wait untill the car is ready and drivable. Then you could go there under your own power instead of hassle and $$ of towing.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Thanks Leo. The issue with waiting until the car is driving to fabricate the A/C lines is access. Once the front end sheet metal is back on the car, it becomes a hell of lot more difficult to access the compressor and associated bits. U-Haul is right down the block so it's not that big a deal to load it on a trailer and tow it for 20 minutes. We'll see how it goes.
I laid the stock A/C line from the dryer to the firewall (evaporator?) in place today. It'll definitely need significant reworking. From the factory, it runs along the frame rail, which is very neat. But with the engine swap, it's way too close to the headers and it runs right where I've relocated heater valve.
I think the next thing I'm going to do is run the heater hoses and go from there.
Tipsy
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