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Thread: My First BMW – My First Swap – LS2/T56 into an E36

  1. #401
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Thanks for the heads up Schitzo! Jegs 15946 hose adapter installed. The 5/16" hose fits the factory hard line much better.

    I wrapped the starter with some of the leftover Thermo-Tec heat shield from the trans-tunnel. I have a DEI Versa-Shield that I intended to use to wrap the starter too, but (1) it requires a lot of trimming to fit well and (2) the Velcro doesn't really look like it'll hold up. I could secure it with safety wire but I think I'm going to do the same thing I did in the tunnel and add a second layer of adhesive heat shield to the starter.

    I have some leftover DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield. I think I will apply this on top of the Thermo-Tec (just as I did in the trans-tunnel) and forgo the Velcro Versa-Shield starter wrap.

    Jegs 15946 Hose Adapter


    Hose adapter installed




    Starter wrapped with Thermo-Tec heat shield



  2. #402
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    Minor progress. I slacked off a bit on taking pictures. Partially because I'm lazy and partially because it's tough to get decent pictures of the stuff I've been working on.

    The starter is in and I covered it with an additional layer of the thicker adhesive heat shield. I'm not using the starter blanket I bought. I don't like the fit.

    Stater with two different kinds/layers of adhesive heat protection applied.


    Of course, I couldn't live with the hydroboost hose routed between the brake lines, so I went back to the hose shop and they were able to lengthen the hose without too much hassle. The hoses are now permanently installed (I hope).

    As I start to install things without the intent to remove them again, I'm starting to get a bit nervous because I realize how much work will be involved in disassembly, should I find any leaks or issues once it's running. For instance, the hydroboost connections at the rack will be all but impossible to access without nearly taking the car back to its current state of disassembly. And the connections at the hydroboost unit and the power steering pump rely on tiny o-rings to seal. I really hope those tiny o-rings do their job!

    Hydroboost hoses routed the way I wanted them. Installed with some split conduit for heat and abrasion protection.


    Here's how the line is routed from the rack up to the hydroboost.




    I bought this hydraulic lug crimper on Amazon and started making battery cables today. So far I made one cable using this 4 ga cable also from Amazon. The cable goes from the alternator to the starter. I really couldn't get any good pics lying on my back but I crimped the lugs, covered the crimps with heat shrink and the alternator lug also has a rubber terminal cover. The cable ended up being an inch or two shorter than I would have liked. I wanted to have the lug at the starter angled up a bit more to keep it further away from the other terminal on the solenoid. It was next to impossible to take a picture but this is looking straight back at the starter.

    You can just make out how the lug is a little close to the other post on the solenoid. They're at least 1/4" apart. I think it'll be fine. If the cable were just a little longer, I could have arced the lug a little higher.


    Next I'll make the cable that runs from the starter to the battery distribution point.
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 04-27-2018 at 10:43 PM.

  3. #403
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    Your hoses and routing look factory - can't get much better than that.

    Reference your concern of o-ring integrity...at least the leak will be obvious...I've had plenty of PS issues and it includes a can or two of Gunk to clean things up. :-)

    Your making more progress than we are! We are on another 2 week delay - engine is up for sale though!

  4. #404
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    Nice progress.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Reference your concern of o-ring integrity...at least the leak will be obvious...I've had plenty of PS issues and it includes a can or two of Gunk to clean things up. :-)

    Your making more progress than we are! We are on another 2 week delay - engine is up for sale though!
    That would really suck. Looking forward to your updates.

    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Nice progress.
    Thanks. Seems a little odd to me but I'm actually pretty much up to electrical! I've forgotten much of what I once learned, so I'm having to go back to my notes and reeducate myself. Funny aside; I was looking at my OBD2 today. I know I have to add wires for the E40's HS LAN+ and LAN-, so I wanted to see how it's currently pinned. I knew I had moved a pin a long time ago but I couldn't recall which one. Long story short, I was a bit dumbfounded why I had a pin in location number two until I realized I'd blindly followed what others had done - moved Pin #7 to Pin #2, not recognizing at the time that the E40 doesn't use Pin #2 on the OBD2.

    I recall I had a heck of a time figuring out how to release those pins from the connector. Oh well. I figured it out once. I'll figure it out again

    Getting a new roof tomorrow and the following day. I will be distracted

  6. #406
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    On LS1Tech, lots of posts say to ground the battery to the engine. With the E36 battery mounted in the trunk, that's obviously not happening.

    I reused the stock E36 ground cable that attaches under the front of the passenger frame rail and attached this to the engine under an A/C bracket bolt. I also made a ground cable (4 ga) that I ran from the front of the passenger cylinder head to the ground post on the engine bay battery tray.

    I'm using the stock rewired LS2 harness which appears to only have two ground ring terminals. One was secured to the front of the pax head, I think in the same spot I secured the new ground cable. And the other was secured to the rear of the drivers head. I might lengthen and relocate the ground from the rear of the drivers head to elsewhere on the block, simply because the back of the heads are getting tough to access.

    So will this be enough? Where else have you guys placed grounds?

    Comments and criticisms welcomed as always.


    Ground from pax head to engine bay battery tray ground







    Factory ground cable in factory location attached to LS2 A/C bracket
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 11-02-2018 at 08:21 AM.

  7. #407
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    You have more then enough of grounding. One would've sufficed At least now you can be sure it is grounded
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    You have more then enough of grounding. One would've sufficed At least now you can be sure it is grounded
    LOL...okay, thanks. It seems the general buzz on LS1Tech is that every problem ever encountered with an LSx can be traced to inadequate grounding Good to know what I've done so far should be adequate.

    I'm going to the driveshaft shop Monday to get the DS made. And my exhaust components arrived today, so it'll be going to the exhaust shop after the driveshaft is in. I have no friends who are into this hobby, so I have no aftermarket exhaust systems to listen to. I know "loud" is subjective. My desire is for people to hear the V8 rumble coming from a BMW and scratch their head in curiosity. But not so loud that it's annoying to me or the general public.

    I called Magnaflow and asked for some guidance. Their initial suggestion was to run a 12468, which is 18" long (24" overall) and 5" x 8" as a mid muffler and 11386 which is 14" long (20" overall) and 4" x 9", in the rear.

    In the interest of trying to keep things tucked up as tight as possible, I opted to get two of the smaller 11386 mufflers instead. They are "X-pipe" mufflers. Magnaflow thinks this might be louder than I'm looking for but suggested I could add a couple of 14156 resonators between the mid and rear later, if it is too loud.

    I got two 59956 cats, which Magnaflow also suggested. These don't have heat shields but they are very compact. I also got two 6" flex joints and two 2.5" stainless V band clamps/flanges that I'll have placed just aft of the mid muffler, to make it easier to the remove the system in my garage.
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 10-22-2018 at 11:41 AM.

  9. #409
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    Yes, unless you hear sound in person it is very hard to choose what sounds good. One of the options is to get to a car show/gathering with LS crowd and hear/ask, but since you already ordered...

    Also keep in minde with time sound will get louder as fiberglass settles and flies out.
    Last edited by bimerok; 09-29-2018 at 09:32 PM.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  10. #410
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    Tipsy - aren't we your friends??? Only about 60 minutes away...come for a ride and aural experience! I'd drive up tomorrow, but the Clearwater Boat Races are on...hey, its free!

    I think you will find you will be over mufflered...two mufflers in series is significant. You are also running cats...another noise canceler. I've ridden in Chris's M3, from Virginia, again two mufflers and it is very quiet. He keeps changing his system (possibly on his third?...he is able to weld).

    Here is a video snapped tonight...wait until the open headered Camaro (red car!) is finished with tire warming...I like it. Sounds healthy, but not...like a Camaro!



    In time, I can see us switching to a 3.5 or even 4 inch single with two mufflers...I think it will still be very quiet...maybe.

    These cars are great fun!
    Last edited by Tim Mc; 09-29-2018 at 11:12 PM.

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Tipsy - aren't we your friends??? Only about 60 minutes away...come for a ride and aural experience! I'd drive up tomorrow, but the Clearwater Boat Races are on...hey, its free!

    I think you will find you will be over mufflered...two mufflers in series is significant. You are also running cats...another noise canceler. I've ridden in Chris's M3, from Virginia, again two mufflers and it is very quiet. He keeps changing his system (possibly on his third?...he is able to weld).
    ...
    LOL...yes, I should have written, "I have very few friends who are into this hobby." I actually texted you last night about meeting you at the track. Guess you didn't get it???

    These mufflers are pretty small. It'll be interesting to hear just how loud it is running through two of them. And the cats nearly fit in one hand. We'll see. The whole project has been trial and error. The exhaust system will be more of the same, I suppose.

    I'm around all week, so maybe we can hook up.
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 09-30-2018 at 08:15 AM.

  12. #412
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    Tipsy: Sorry...no text received, then again, I'm phone challenged.

    Chuck who did the Super Tube headers/mounts uses:

    https://www.aceraceparts.com/collect...ant=6641626564

    For the v bands. I can say they are very high quality...his work is top notch.

    Chris M's exhaust attempts...may look him up on Youtube. His latest:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzaJyXjWPFk

    Meant to also mention that I used the same OEM engine ground. I also added another near the alternator to the sway bar mount (not ideal), but it is large and haven't had any issues thus far (unless the alternator failure was a result). I know Chris M.'s project did not have two large grounds and it wouldn't start. My no brand name starter turns it over with authority.
    Last edited by Tim Mc; 09-30-2018 at 08:11 PM.

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    ... I know Chris M.'s project did not have two large grounds and it wouldn't start. My no brand name starter turns it over with authority.
    Interesting. Thanks for the info.

    Now that the driveshaft is installed (info on driveshaft here), I wanted to refit the exhaust heat shield. I had stupidly given away my stock exhaust heat shield way back when I sold the stock exhaust. A new shield is north of $250. But a nice guy nearby gave me one in pretty decent shape for free.

    I trimmed the heat shield to fit around the JTR transmission mount. I left as much material as I could to help prevent heat from migrating into the cabin around the console/shifter.

    I thought the next step would be to bring the car over to the exhaust shop but after fitting the trimmed heat shield, I quickly realized there would be zero room to reach up and connect the various T-56 harness connections. So I think I'll have to leave the exhaust until just before I'm ready to test fire.

    Not that it matters much but does anyone recall the purpose of the three clips in the fourth photo?













  14. #414
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    I started to make the fuel line today and also tried refitting the stock fuel filter/regulator heat shield. It comes in contact with the JTR header. And the the braided hydraulic line from the clutch master to the slave is kind of in the way, too. If I'm going to use it, I'm going to have to cut it up a bit.

    I'm assuming most of you guys have reused the heat shield. Any header contact?

  15. #415
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    Both left and right forward heat shields required a bit of trimming at the front due to the headers. Minor tweaks...and our self installed stick on heatshield covered the area. I'd certainly employ the shields - well engineered.

    The clutch line was no factor for us although our was different with a full braided line from the slave to the master (automatic conversion).

    Reference the clips on the center heat shield - don't recall their intended use although I lost skin on most of my knuckles when I was cleaning that crap...:-)

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Both left and right forward heat shields required a bit of trimming at the front due to the headers. Minor tweaks...and our self installed stick on heatshield covered the area. I'd certainly employ the shields - well engineered.

    The clutch line was no factor for us although our was different with a full braided line from the slave to the master (automatic conversion).

    Reference the clips on the center heat shield - don't recall their intended use although I lost skin on most of my knuckles when I was cleaning that crap...:-)
    I had three Band-Aids on my hands the other day after trimming the heat shield around the trans mount...LOL.

    Yea, I guess your line is running from the slave directly to the master so it's got more flexibility. I've got mine connected to the stock master hard line.

    I'll have to trim the hard cover that goes over the fuel filter to clear the hyd line and the header. Tomorrow's project

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    ...Not that it matters much but does anyone recall the purpose of the three clips...?
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    ...Reference the clips on the center heat shield - don't recall their intended use although I lost skin on most of my knuckles when I was cleaning that crap...:-)
    If anyone cares, I randomly figured out what those heat shield clips are for. They are wire retainers for the OE post-cat O2 sensors. I stumbled upon that info while look at Doug Vetters E36 blog. Look at the thumbnail captioned "Last year I complained about..."

    I should be back in FL tomorrow. Before I left, I removed the headliner and moonroof panel and brought those, along with the package tray and A,B & C pillars to Headliner Express in Orlando. Bill has been recovering headliners for more than 30 years. I chose a material that, if I recall correctly what Bill told me, was originally used on the underside of Audi convertible tops (I'll verify that info when I pick-up the parts). They are all recovered and ready to be picked up. I'll probably grab them Monday. It's about two hours drive each way.

    The headliner board had lost some rigidity in the narrow portion abeam the moonroof cutout. It's possible I might have tweaked the board when removing the headliner through the drivers door, though Bill pointed out the headliner had been previously recovered. So maybe it had been tweaked during the prior removal/installation? Regardless, I didn't want to risk creasing the new material, so I rode back to Bill's place (good excuse to ride the V-Strom) a couple of days after dropping off the parts and brought along some fiberglass cloth and resin for a small field repair. Bill thought this was unnecessary and was amused at my OCD but he was accommodating nonetheless.

    I put a small square of cloth on the weak spot and applied some resin to a few other areas, which the board accepted like a sponge. The resin kicked faster than I was anticipating and while I could have mixed another batch, I figured this was good enough.










    My other thread on A/C line routing got me thinking about the smaller Sanden SD7B10 compressor. While I would like to use the OE compressor and machined OE bracket I already have, I think routing the lines to the extremely tight space behind the compressor is a battle simply not worth waging.

    I started yet another thread on LS1Tech and in the end, decided to spring for the Holley 20-160 low mount SD7 kit.

    As I wrote in that thread, it appears the Dirty Dingo kit keeps the compressor tighter to the block than the Holley kit - and while I can use every millimeter available - I decided to buy the Holley kit. The Dirty Dingo kit comes with a Chinese knockoff Sanden compressor. The Holley kit comes with a USA made genuine Sanden compressor (EDIT: The Holley kit came with a Sanden made in Japan. It is a genuine Sanden). I thought about buying the Dirty Dingo bracket and separately purchasing a genuine Sanden compressor, but I've read that the Dirty Dingo kit could potentially have some belt alignment issues. So I sacrificed what I'm guessing is about 5/8" - 3/4" of frame rail clearance and went with what I think is a higher quality bracket.
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 11-02-2018 at 08:29 AM.

  18. #418
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    Great CSI work on the compressor, just read through the ls1tech thread. Never even knew about the other mounts until you mentioned them in the other thread..... Also, WTF i thought my compressor was a legit sanden not a "Sanden style" lol. OH well, hope it last .haha

    Looking forward to the headliner progress, that's something I need to do as well, want to change over my headliner to all black!
    Last edited by RulyLSX; 10-19-2018 at 10:30 AM.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    Great CSI work on the compressor, just read through the ls1tech thread. Never even knew about the other mounts until you mentioned them in the other thread..... Also, WTF i thought my compressor was a legit sanden not a "Sanden style" lol. OH well, hope it last .haha

    Looking forward to the headliner progress, that's something I need to do as well, want to change over my headliner to all black!
    The material I chose is pretty much black but with a subtle pattern. I also installed a black dash a while ago and I have a black console. That's as far as I'm going with black but I think it'll be a nice combo with the rest of the tan interior.

    Insofar as the compressor, yeah...I couldn't wrap my head about the nearly $200 price difference between DD and Holley, when both brackets sold individually for nearly the same price. Hopefully you won't have any issues with your Sanden "style" compressor but I didn't want to take a chance. The owner of a local A/C shop told me "Many of the China Sandens we have seen are either noisy right out of the box (installing customers supplied compressor) or do not work. Lately we have been refusing to install them."

  20. #420
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    Tipsy: looking forward to seeing how the liner comes out. We are in need of a fresh one...

    We didn't know Holley also offered an option. Looks like a winner!

  21. #421
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    Here's the compressor that came with the Holley kit:




  22. #422
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    Interesting, box says made in Japan, but the barcode is for US/Canada ...
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Interesting, box says made in Japan, but the barcode is for US/Canada ...
    The 199-102 part number appears to be Holley specific, though I'm not 100% sure about that. I'm guessing that "Air Source" label was added for units distributed by Holley? Sanden is apparently a Japanese company. Based on what I've read, they have a division with a manufacturing facility in Texas.

    As far as I can tell, the Japanese and American manufactured genuine Sanden compressors are far superior in quality vs. the Chinese made knockoffs. So whether this one came from Japan or America, I'm confident it's a quality unit.

    At least I'm hoping
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 11-02-2018 at 08:32 AM. Reason: spelling

  24. #424
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    It'll be fine
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  25. #425
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    On my E36 LS/t56 swap I didn't use the stock center muffler heat shield. Instead I used the DEI adhesive back heat shield. Forms pretty easy. Provides great heat protection.

    For mufflers I used Magna Flow 2 in 2 out 2.5" center muffler. Rear muffler was Magna Flow 2 in 2 out 2.5". I did use the high flow cats. Car had a nice rumble but not too loud.

    In regards to the fuel line good tip on the adapter. In the past I've heated up fuel hose in hot water to get them to slide on easier.

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