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Thread: My First BMW My First Swap LS2/T56 into an E36

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    96 328is 6.0L
    If your car is on 4 jack stands under the correct lifting points and on level ground, you will need to come up with significant force to have it flipped. I don't think you can accomplish this with 215lbs of laverage upon the car.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    If your car is on 4 jack stands under the correct lifting points and on level ground, you will need to come up with significant force to have it flipped. I don't think you can accomplish this with 215lbs of laverage upon the car.
    The jack stands are under the designated lifting points. I'm sure you're right. If just seems a bit precarious.

    Tipsy

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Buffalo, NY
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    2001 BMW 540i/6
    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    Here's the modified subframe with JTR's base plates installed.

    Tipsy

    I want to eat off your floor.

    Keep up the good work.

    2001 BMW 560i 6.0 LSx/T56 SOLD


    2000 Corvette Hardtop FRC

  4. #79
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by nsogiba View Post
    I want to eat off your floor.

    Keep up the good work.
    LOL...thanks, I try to keep it clean, but trust me, it's still plenty dirty. Every now and then, to clean a spill or what have you, I'll spray some brake cleaner down and give it a wipe. The rag will be jet black. I was just thinking yesterday how I'd like to empty the garage and take a pressure washer to it but I won't even think about that until this thing is running.

    Incidentally, the tile is called AutoStone. It's incredibly strong. It's used in commercial applications; garage bays at dealerships and such. I found it on CL. The seller had just finished an installation at a local Mercedes dealership and the owner let him keep the overage. I got it for $1 sq ft!

    Tipsy

    - - - Updated - - -

    Okay guys...I need a little help. I've got the hydroboost mocked up. It looks really good! The reservoir is very close to level. I'm just a bit uncertain if I'll have any issues with hood clearance. You can see the level is fairly angled running from the outside edge of the fender to the reservoir cap. But the cap itself is only 7/8" above the top of the fuse box.

    My hood is hanging in a cargo net above the car, so it's not coming down easily (at least by myself). The easiest test would be if any of you guys currently have a car with a hood installed and no engine. I'm sure it would be simple to see from underneath how much clearance there is between the hood and the top of the fuse box.

    If I had another E36 to play with, I guess I could put a lump of clay on the fuse box, close the hood and see how much it gets squished.

    Tipsy








  5. #80
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480
    Tipsy,

    Other than the clearance between the shock tower and master cylinder, your hydro boost sits very similar to mine. I do not have hood clearance problems.

  6. #81
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    Tipsy,

    Other than the clearance between the shock tower and master cylinder, your hydro boost sits very similar to mine. I do not have hood clearance problems.
    Thanks Unnatrl. I hope it does indeed clear, because everything else seems to be spot-on.

    Tipsy

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Kansas City
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    11
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    E36 M3 Sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    If your car is on 4 jack stands under the correct lifting points and on level ground, you will need to come up with significant force to have it flipped. I don't think you can accomplish this with 215lbs of laverage upon the car.
    Actually...I almost found out the hard way that it is very easy to tip backwards. My story: front end removed, gutted engine bay, removed hood, opened doors to remove front fenders. With front fenders removed, I shut the doors and that was enough of a weight shift to cause it to fall back (using jack pad points). Fun times. The rear end was almost fully weighted (spare tire, rear end intack, 1/8 tank of gas, no wheels mounted). So, you should be ok, but I would remove spare tire and place the floor jack under the rear just in case (if you havn't already)

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Columbia, MD
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    96 M3 TT LSx
    The jack pads are a death trap. I highly recommend removing them, at least for when you've got stands underneath (if you remove them there are holes which water could get into and rust, etc). The jack pads are meant for 2 post lifts, not for jackstands. If you remove them you will have a reinforced metal area to use for jack stands that is MUCH more stable.
    96 M3 | Forged LSx | Twin S366 | Injector Dynamics | E85 | AEM Infinity
    90 Schwarz 325i

    IG : sdobart

  9. #84
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by sdobart View Post
    The jack pads are a death trap. I highly recommend removing them, at least for when you've got stands underneath (if you remove them there are holes which water could get into and rust, etc). The jack pads are meant for 2 post lifts, not for jackstands. If you remove them you will have a reinforced metal area to use for jack stands that is MUCH more stable.
    Yeah, having never had the E36 on four stands, I wasn't really sure what to do. One of the four pads was actually missing, and I just bought a replacement before raising the car. What I ended up doing was cutting small strips of scrap carpet and rolling them up. I placed the rolls in the "V" of the jack stand, sandwiched between the stand and the pad. It seems to have spread the load across the stand more evenly.

    I am going to add some blocking under the diff, though. It was probably my mind and my inner ear playing tricks but when I was on my back, under the dash, I'd swear I felt the car move a couple of times.

    Tipsy

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    I take the bus to work.
    how much did it end up costing for the entire drivetrain from LKQ? You can PM me if you prefer.
    -M3J0N

  11. #86
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    Jul 2013
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by m3j0n View Post
    how much did it end up costing for the entire drivetrain from LKQ? You can PM me if you prefer.
    $5500 +tax. Engine and accesories, trans, harness, full pedals, J1 (blue) trunk from the body harness, Mass Air Flow sensor.

    Sold the GTO exhaust manifolds, engine mounts, clutch and flywheel.

    Tipsy

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Columbia, MD
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    96 M3 TT LSx
    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    Yeah, having never had the E36 on four stands, I wasn't really sure what to do. One of the four pads was actually missing, and I just bought a replacement before raising the car. What I ended up doing was cutting small strips of scrap carpet and rolling them up. I placed the rolls in the "V" of the jack stand, sandwiched between the stand and the pad. It seems to have spread the load across the stand more evenly.

    I am going to add some blocking under the diff, though. It was probably my mind and my inner ear playing tricks but when I was on my back, under the dash, I'd swear I felt the car move a couple of times.

    Tipsy
    Yeah I just pop the pads off. They just pop right out with a screwdriver.
    96 M3 | Forged LSx | Twin S366 | Injector Dynamics | E85 | AEM Infinity
    90 Schwarz 325i

    IG : sdobart

  13. #88
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    Apr 2013
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    Colona, IL
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    94 BMW 325is
    The oil pans can sell for decent money too.

    After all the jacking and supporting my car at the Jack mounts... one of the locations just dropped out from rust. If you have rust there, probably worth fixing.

  14. #89
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by sweetcorn360 View Post
    The oil pans can sell for decent money too.

    After all the jacking and supporting my car at the Jack mounts... one of the locations just dropped out from rust. If you have rust there, probably worth fixing.
    I sold the oil pan too...forgot about that.

    This car spent 100% of its life in Orlando prior to my ownership. One, female owner and garaged much of its life. Thankfully, there's not a speck of rust anywhere.

    Tipsy

  15. #90
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    94 BMW 325is
    Good find, I am now wishing I would if found a southern car for the swap instead if my existing car.

  16. #91
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    Jul 2013
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Just got back from a month on the road, so no real progress. But I picked up this Euro M3 cluster on eBay, shipped from Northern Ireland. MPH and the oil temp scale is in Fahrenheit.

    I've got a couple of weeks off and I'm ready to get back at it. Next up is relocating the ABS pump and bending up new brake lines. The conundrum is that I don't yet have my headers and I'm a bit leery of relocating the pump and bending new lines without knowing for sure that the new position will adequately clear the headers. Not really sure whether I should put this off until the headers are available.

    Tipsy


  17. #92
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Question: I want run a self test on the Euro cluster before I pay to have the odometer adjusted. I know the cluster can be removed and installed with the steering wheel in place but there's lots more room to maneuver with the steering wheel removed. I have a beautiful Euro steering wheel from eBay seller Tainik I picked up when I was in Germany, so I need to remove my stock steering wheel anyway. Plus, I need to replace the steering lock mechanism, so I plan to remove the entire column.

    If I put power on the car when the steering wheel, or more specifically, the airbag is removed it will throw an SRS code. According to this post, a special tool is needed to reset the SRS light. Is there any other way to reset the SRS light? Is there anything else I should consider before I remove the steering wheel and put power on the car?

    Thanks.

    Tipsy

  18. #93
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    Oct 2007
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    sterling hts, michigan
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    02 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    Thanks! I really need to get the vacuum booster removed so I can mock-up the hydroboost. I removed the drivers seat yesterday to make it a little easier, but at 6'2", 215lbs, it's still a tight squeeze working under the dash. It's also super hot in the garage.

    And my third procrastination excuse; the car is currently on four jacks stands and I'm a bit leery about getting in the car. I have this vision of the car tipping backwards. I think I'll try to put some wood under the diff as additional stabilization.

    Tipsy
    Don't worry about the car tipping. I built my entire car last year, removing engine, trans, rear end, tons of interior work, all while the car was on jack stands. It never budged, even during the late drunk nights fucking around and friends hitting the car with their bodies.

  19. #94
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Not too much to report. The headers arrived from JTR/Sanderson last week. These are the latest revision. I opted for uncoated headers. I figured they'll get scratched during the multiple stages of test fitting, so I'll have them coated locally when ready. I've got a bunch of time off but it's been more than 100F in the garage and I can't motivate to deal with the heat right now.

    I disassembled my Euro M3 cluster in the air conditioned comfort of my kitchen to install a set of eBay trim rings, but after an hour plus of frustration, I gave up. The rings are supposed to snap-in but they simply don't fit. I'm not a big fan of chrome...in fact I hate it. But in this one instance, I think it adds some nice flair to an otherwise plain-Jane cluster. I was thinking maybe I'd keep an eye open for a cheap Z3 cluster with the trim rings factory installed. I can simply install my Euro cluster into the Z3 housing.

    I also think I've decided to relocate the ABS pump to the frame rail, more or less in the same position others have chosen. Since I'm using a Mustang hydroboost, which frees up some space compared to the stock vacuum booster, I'd considered sliding-up the pump a bit above the stock location. But I don't weld and it seems like more trouble than it's worth to devise a mounting solution without the ability to weld. The Vorshlag bracket atop the frame rail seems to make more sense.

    I'll need to get some tools to bend the brake lines. I was looking at this set from Eastwood. Anyone have any experience with these? I'm not sure what size the stock E36 lines are but the Eastwood forming plies are for 3/6" and 1/4" tubing.

    I also spoke with Jared at Current Performance Wiring, which is about five minutes from here. I think I'm going to have him convert my factory LS2 harness to stand alone. I'd gone back and forth about doing this myself but I figure I might as well take advantage of their proximity and have it done once and done right. I'll probably ask them to add wires for the BMW water temp sensor (for the factory dash gauge) and the BMW oil temp sensor (for the Euro oil temp gauge). I'm pretty sure I'm going to install an Aeroforce Interceptor, which can display two user selectable parameters at a time. This way, I can have real time information utilizing the GM oil pressure sensor, water temp senor, etc. I'm nearly certain the oil sensor on the rear of the manifold provides actual oil pressure to the E40 PCM, vs. simply activating a dash light, as on the LS1.

    I'll also have Jared flash an '05 SSR OS onto my GTO E40, so I can hook-up DBW cruise control. I'll just need to use an SSR/Trailblazer pedal, which I already have.

    Tipsy
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 09-02-2014 at 08:25 PM.

  20. #95
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    Mar 2004
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Sorry, but I had to laugh so loud when I read your post on trying to install the cluster rings... Every one says the same thing that they simply don't fit, but they actually do. They are extremely tight fit and you typically need 4 hands in the place where one hand is 1 too much. Honestly, they will fit now that you know that it is possible to do. You just need to kind of get one side seated and go around the circle to press the rest of it in place. In all seriousness extra fingers do help.

    As far as bending pliers, they are pretty crappy, but I still ended up using them in certain bends, but the majority of bending was done using the second tool on that picture, except it was smaller one.
    Last edited by bimerok; 09-02-2014 at 08:26 PM.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  21. #96
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Sorry, but I had to laugh so loud when I read your post on trying to install the cluster rings... Every one says the same thing that they simply don't fit, but they actually do. They are extremely tight fit and you typically need 4 hands in the place where one hand is 1 too much. Honestly, they will fit now that you know that it is possible to do. You just need to kind of get one side seated and go around the circle to press the rest of it in place. In all seriousness extra fingers do help.
    I'd read some similar comments last night. Seems like many end up sanding the rings to remove some material. I'm not sure if all trim rings are created equal. These are the ones I bought.

    I did give it another try this afternoon, still with no success. I don't want to mess-up the housing. But I'll go grab another set of latex gloves from the garage and try once again

    Tipsy
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 09-02-2014 at 08:35 PM.

  22. #97
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    ORD
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    95 M3 - LS2
    What will you be using for a clutch fluid reservoir?
    2016 4Runner TEP
    1995 M3 - LS2
    1998 M3 - Gone
    1991 M5 - Gone
    1993 RS America - Gone
    1995 M3 - Gone

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG Allin View Post
    What will you be using for a clutch fluid reservoir?
    I don't have anything yet but I'll probably just walk through the Pick 'n Pull and look for something. I think I've read there's a reservoir from a Ford Ranger that works well.

    Tipsy

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    I don't have anything yet but I'll probably just walk through the Pick 'n Pull and look for something. I think I've read there's a reservoir from a Ford Ranger that works well.

    Tipsy
    I'd love to find something that has an output right off the brake reservoir like the BMW's do. I'm also running Hydroboost, unsure exactly what master I have though.

    I recently decided to move my heater control valve to the firewall above the Hydroboost unit, similar to where the Alpina B8's have it. Problem is, that is where my current remote reservoir is located for the clutch.

    Typical swap, solve one issue, create another.
    Last edited by GG Allin; 09-20-2014 at 01:09 PM.
    2016 4Runner TEP
    1995 M3 - LS2
    1998 M3 - Gone
    1991 M5 - Gone
    1993 RS America - Gone
    1995 M3 - Gone

  25. #100
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by GG Allin View Post
    I'd love to find something that has an output right off the brake reservoir like the BMW's do. I'm also running Hydroboost, unsure exactly what master I have though.

    I recently decided to move my heater control valve to the firewall above the Hydroboost unit, similar to where the Alpina B8's have it. Problem is, that is where my current remote reservoir is located for the clutch.

    Typical swap, solve one issue, create another.
    I suppose I could use the adapter from the other thread to retain my stock master. Honestly, I'm not sure how the stock master compares to my Mustang master with regard to bore size and effectiveness. I think it's supposedly from an '04 Cobra. Other than the simplicity of retaining the single reservoir, I'm not sure which master would be better to use. Right now, the brakes are stock 328iS but I plan to upgrade to E46 bits at some point.

    Why the desire to have the heater valve near the hydroboost?

    Tipsy

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