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Thread: M50 turbo project finsihed

  1. #26
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    I was told the same thing but I just got off the phone with grip forces technical advisor and he informed me that just their clutches will not work unless you run a brand new dual mass flywheel. The problem is a worn surface will cause the clutch disc to sit further back on the old flywheel and the pressure plate will not clamp the new disk.

  2. #27
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    Wherr can I find a downpipe to fit the top mount setup

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmer93m View Post
    Wherr can I find a downpipe to fit the top mount setup
    Custom build one. All will be different based on turbo choice.

  4. #29
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    Just bought a house so this project isbon hold...good thing is I now have a garage and don't have to drive 30 mins to get to the shop!!!!

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by usherboy83 View Post
    Just bought a house so this project isbon hold...good thing is I now have a garage and don't have to drive 30 mins to get to the shop!!!!
    how has the cx manifold held up for you? I recently just removed mine.. theres a slight bend in the mounting flange on the #1 runner.

  6. #31
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    Fortunately for me this isnt my daily so it's take out and beat on it when I have time. Ive only gotten maybe 1500 miles out of the setup before I spun a bearing so I really haven't beat on it enough to see if itll crap out or not. I've already CADed the design and can have a buddy of mine replicate/modify it if need be tho.

  7. #32
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    so this project has come back underway since I have a garage of my own to work in. So I bought a low mileage m52 (which I'm converting to obd1 using my m50 parts), s50 cams, arp 2000 head bolts, cometic mls .140 head gasket (that I copper sprayed), and sent my m50 head to the machine shop. It was decked .008 to insure a really smooth surface. I'm in the process now of putting everything back together. I'm tack welding the oil pump nut this time for reassurance. I've done everything so far by myself, with the occasional friend taking out a bolt here or there, so its been a very humbling but satisfying task. I'll let some pics talk for me.

    new home!


    intake manifold out. labeled EVERYTHING!


    and shes out. motor and trans together.


    started deconstruction


    head sent off.


    more deconstruction


    cleaned the block. hopefully good enough to ensure no mls failure.


    copper spray. hopefully enough coats. used half a can.
    Last edited by usherboy83; 09-18-2014 at 09:52 PM.

  8. #33
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    this is a miller war chip build isnt it?

  9. #34
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    Yes it is!

  10. #35
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    since it's apart.... may i suggest....

    If you can.... get M50B25 Non-Vanos pistons....

    Get M20B20 rods and a M52B28 crankshaft...

    strokes to 2880cc and will be safe for 700hp if you use your ARP studs and MLS gasket

    And don't forget to get ACL racing bearings for both conrods and mains....
    Viktor Agnar Falk Gušmundsson
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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselGhost View Post
    since it's apart.... may i suggest....

    If you can.... get M50B25 Non-Vanos pistons....

    Get M20B20 rods and a M52B28 crankshaft...

    strokes to 2880cc and will be safe for 700hp if you use your ARP studs and MLS gasket
    It will not. Since bore and stroke will exactly be the same than on a M52B28, you'll get 2793cc.
    And i'd go with the 135mm M50B25 rods, thats what i did on my frankenstein. they are better than M20 stock ones.

    EDIT: Arent those M20B20 ones only 130mm long anyways? do the pistons even clear the crank at BDC with them?
    Last edited by PowerKraut; 09-19-2014 at 07:59 AM.
    1982 E21 323i
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerKraut View Post

    It will not. Since bore and stroke will exactly be the same than on a M52B28, you'll get 2793cc.
    And i'd go with the 135mm M50B25 rods, thats what i did on my frankenstein. they are better than M20 stock ones.

    EDIT: Arent those M20B20 ones only 130mm long anyways? do the pistons even clear the crank at BDC with them?
    Yea. Too much work to end with the same final stroke. The m52 is an iron block with forged crank and rods with hypereutectic pistons so that bottom end never got touched since it was low mileage

  13. #38
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    Haha, I thought this was Tristo from the avatar/post. I was going to make a snide comment about supercharging vs turbo but carry on. In for updates!

  14. #39
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    Ok guys i need some help. The first go around i bought an F1 stage 3 clutch kit with no ltw flywheel. The pressure plate didn't fit with the stock dual mass. I call gripforce and was told I either needed a new dual mass or the ltw flywheel. So this go around i ordered a new chromoly ltw flywheel thinking it would work with the F1 kit i already have. Tell my it doesn't work. The full clutch and flywheel kit says it fits all e36 models. Im stuck. Should i sell each piece seperately and get a clutchnet or uuc or try to see why this isn't working?

  15. #40
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    What stage 3 kit did you buy it for ? A M3 ? Is this a sprung hub kit? Don't run a sprung hub with dual mass FW. .post up part numbers and we can figure it out.
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  16. #41
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    I actually think i ordered the clutch kit for my 325 so that may be my problem. Im now thinking of getting the stage 4 m3 clutch to use on the chromoly. This is the unsprung kit which is why i used it on the dmf.

  17. #42
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    Got the new stage 4 clutch in mail today. Motor is all assembled and ready for install. Need a new startee forst, since some how mine got broken. Dont know how when i haven't touched it since the intioal m50 break down, but at least i wont have to replace it soon. Trying to decide between rotella t6 5w40 or t5 15w40 oil.

  18. #43
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    try the 5w40 first. follow the 10psi per 1000 rpm rule with the motor completely warmed up. if it follows the rule stick with rotella. if it doesnt find an oil that does follow the rule. typically hot idle is where you will see problems on a motor with bad clearances. I run 20w50 in the boosted car but rotella in the e38 and e46. great oils but I think you have to stick with them once you start.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerKraut View Post
    M50B25 rods, thats what i did on my frankenstein. they are better than M20 stock ones.


    Sorry, your argument is SOOOO invalid !!!

    M20B20 rods are WAY stronger than M50 rods...

    The strongest "stock sourced combo" will be M50B25NV pistons, M20B20 rods and M52B28 crank....

    Upper is a M50 rod, Lower is a M20 rod !
    Viktor Agnar Falk Gušmundsson
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  20. #45
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    Are the m20b25 or m20b27 rods that beefy or just the m20b20's?

  21. #46
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    I thought m52b28 rods were forged? If so, could be just as strong as the m20 rod even though it's physical dimensions are far different. Just a thought.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by litemup View Post
    I thought m52b28 rods were forged? If so, could be just as strong as the m20 rod even though it's physical dimensions are far different. Just a thought.
    Going way back to Ulysses (cardcounter) days...he used the m52b28 motor and hit the record of I believe 704whp when he bent a rod (or two or more can't remember # of bent rods). Not forged.
    Where have I been? Astral projecting.

    Quote Originally Posted by jszy25 View Post
    Get drunk with Mike Radowski they said, it'll be fun they said...A broken toe, the worst hangover known to man, and bite marks in my arm said otherwise

  23. #48
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    I have a 1992 cast m50b25 crank.

    I also have the following OEM forged components,
    1997 forged m52b28 crank
    1997 forged m52b28 RODS
    1995 forged S50b30 Rods
    1982 forged m10b18 rods.

    How does a person tell the difference between forged and cast components? Anyone any one. Nobody.....

    The parting line. Cast components have a very thin parting line from the casting process.

    Forged components have a thick parting line.
    WOT

  24. #49
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    nice work on the rims


  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsvturbo View Post
    I have a 1992 cast m50b25 crank.
    1997 forged m52b28 crank
    1997 forged m52b28 RODS
    1995 forged S50b30 Rods
    1982 forged m10b18 rods.
    Only OEM BMW Forged cranks i've seen so far are S50 euro crankshafts...

    Also i'd like a picture of those forged rods...

    Any M20 rods will be this beefy, but bear in mind, M20B20 rods can be used with M50B20 NON-VANOS and M50B25 NON-VANOS pistons only... because of wrist pin location...

    and if used with M50B25 piston.... must be used with M52B28 crank... M20B25 rods with M50B25 NON-VANOS pistons will also work... with a M50B25 crank..

    compare M50 NON-VANOS pistons with VANOS ones, and you will see that both the rings and ringlands on NON-VANOS pistons are beefier...

    hope this sheds some light on stuff...
    Last edited by DieselGhost; 10-26-2014 at 09:11 PM.
    Viktor Agnar Falk Gušmundsson
    -----------------------------

    Signature idea, courtesy of 5mall5nails

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