Best Penetrating Oil - Works amazingly well

[CMM3]

I was just reading another thread about a frozen caliper carrier bolt and thought I'd throw this out there for those who never heard of it.

I've tried everything out there and nothing comes close to working as well as Kroil in liquid form or Aerokroil in a spay can.

Available from the Kano Labs manufacturer directly http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html#anchor173855

Spay on wait a few hours, repeat and for real stubborn bolts add heat if needed.

This stuff is amazing, and has never failed me.

[BMWBergy]

Spay on wait a few hours, repeat and for real stubborn bolts add heat if needed.

But you'll need a different product if you want to neuter... something that works on nuts, of course.

Seriously, though, never heard of this. I'll look into it. PB Blaster has worked for me in most cases, though something better would have been great back when I was trying to remove some rusty suspension bolts on my former WRX.

[Bear Grylls]

PB Blaster / Deep Creep works wonders. Just changed my Control arms and mounts and it helped a ton in removing everything

I generally do not wait hours, though I am sure an increased waiting time would be beneficial

[BenFenner]

I'll still use PB Blaster for a few things like clearing up household tumbler locks (taking equal advantage of the lubricating properties after the fact) or maybe sometimes as a cleaning agent, but if I'm really trying to get rusted and corroded hardware loose I have moved on to Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil in this specific package:



This is distinctly different from their white foaming spray found in an aerosol can. (Which is only good for lubricating or oiling, but not for penetrating or breaking anything loose.)

The stuff I'm talking about is black and smells like chocolate and is gravity-fed.



I'm not saying it is better than this Krill oil stuff the OP mentioned , but it is by far the best stuff I've worked with and it is easily found locally. It is MUCH better than PB Blaster, I can say that with confidence.


(And then of course Mythbusters did that thing with ATF/acetone didn't they? Or someone did, and found it to be as good or better than anything else.)

[jc43089]

I have heard fantastic things about the kroil stuff but can't get it locally. I have used 50/50 dexron 3 and acetone with great results, better than even deep creep, and much cheaper. I mix a little in an old spice jar and apply it with a syringe (actually an old one with a curved end from getting wisdom teeth out years ago). If it won't come loose with that then I will heat it with a propane torch and keep applying the mixture as it cools so it draws into the threads etc. The rust is much more of an issue on my old yota than the BMW's. The quality of the metals BMW uses is much superior.

[ZUUD BYE]

KROIL IS KING!
I've seen to looses header flange nuts on an '87 E30 and '95 E34 without stripping or snapping the studs! Buy it.

[MudHut]

I agree completely with the OP. I get KROIL at the supply houses for my profession. I've never tried anything better. A bit pricey.
All other penetration oils pale in comparison.

WD40 is for starting diesel tractors and getting adhesive off of things.

Jay

[4DIMNZN]

Ordered a spray can of this stuff - always looking for new solutions.

When I die my heirs will be going through my garage puzzling over these concoctions and assorted bits like window sliders, seat bushings and what not. Hope they don't throw damn the stuff away. Maybe I should put a clause in my will saying "everything in the box marked Bimmer Forums should be listed on here as a community gift grab bag".

[Blacklane]

I have tried all of them, including AeroKroil and SiliKroil. None of them really work. Mostly applying penetrating oil is just something you do while catching your breath from trying to turn a bolt. You sort of feel like you have to do SOMETHING. I have soaked bolts for days and when I finally get them apart, they are always completely dry inside. Usually heat, and often acetylene, is needed to break loose really seized bolts.

Of course when assembling things, I nearly always use anti-seize. Two main exceptions are spark plugs and lug nuts.

[BenFenner]

I know it is rare, but when you can get something on the back of the bolt, it can really help with the last half of the job. At the least, that is not wasted energy.

[KeysCoupe]

I agree with CMM3 about Kroil. I've used it for more than 20 years, and it is one of the best in its field. It has allowed me to disassemble an engine that sat outside for years with no sparkplugs. It took weeks, but I finally got the pistons out intact.
When I was a kid, I had a Jeep with a stuck engine from sitting for years. I couldn't get it to turn over by dragging it, turning the flywheel, or anything. An old-time mechanic told me to pour a couple bottles of Coca-Cola down all the spark plug holes and let it sit a week or two. Guess what? It worked great. The starter cranked it over shooting the Coke out the plug holes. It used a little oil, but ran fine for years after. It turns out colas have phosphoric acid which dissolves rust.
-Donny

[Dakar Ole]

Love Kroil, since Stygar mentioned years ago but boy the smell....

[CMM3]

Here is how I would rate them for penetrating / freeing frozen nuts and bolts.

1. Kroil - hands down winner
2. PB Blaster - works, but not nearly as well as Kroil
3. Liquid Wrench - not so good, at least the spray, never heard about the liquid black stuff.
5. 50/50 dexron 3 and acetone - tried it once but it was a PITA to mix and apply.
4. WD 40 shouldn't be included in the list it's a lubricant not a penetrating oil.

Kroil is not easy to find in stores so I typically order several of the spay cans then give a few away to my brother and nephew who are also wrench on BMW's.
They have seen similar results and formed the same opinion as I have - it's the best stuff out there.

[BenFenner]

IMO I would put the Liquid Wrench in the spray can with WD40. Shouldn't even be on the list. Lubricant only.

The black stuff in the nozzle bottle is completely different. For those not interested in finding Kroil, I'd give it a shot over your BP Blaster and see what you think.

[cleanerPA]

Kroil and AeroKroil are awesome, definitely the penetrating oil of choice. That's pretty much all I use when wrenching on my cars.

[kobayashi]

Kroil and Kreen. Can't be beat.

[drewvir]

I work on gas turbines (jet engines on 'roids) these things cook bolts like no one's business. Header bolts pale in comparison. Kroll is head and shoulders above anything else. It's the only penetrating oil that goes up hill against gravity. If Kroll and heat won't get it loose, your gonna be cutting or drilling it out. Www.eastwood.Com sells Kroll if you can't find it

[MartyBtoo]

I've been a fan of Kroil ever since I tried some on some frozen bumper bolts on my 1947 Plymouth. They'd been on there for 50 years, and were frozen solid. Soaked them for a couple of days, and they came right apart. You can buy it directly from the manufacturer: http://www.kanolabs.com/

Marty

[Vintage42]

Pricey...
http://www.amazon.com/Kano-AeroKroil...rds=aero+kroil

[MartyBtoo]

Pricey...
http://www.amazon.com/Kano-AeroKroil...rds=aero+kroil

Only if you buy it from this ripoff artist; if you use the mfgr website I listed it's $15 (plus shipping, I'm sure).

Marty

[Bob M]

Kroil has been used for longtime on by firearm enthusiasts. It just works.

[Boltface]

Follow this link to the mfg web site and you will see a two for one google special.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

[CMM3]

Follow this link to the mfg web site and you will see a two for one google special.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

Just got my replenisment of 2 cans from them the other day. I try to never run out of the stuff and routinely spray it on any nut or bolt that I even think might give me trouble. Haven't busted a single one since I started using this stuff and got my acetylene torch

[Jerome D. Brow]

Kano Kroil is always my number one choice. You can refer more here: http://datingwithnature.com/best-penetrating-oil/

[Xiorah]

I like the blue wrench if heat is not an issue. I've also used Liquid Wrench for years to keep things moist while I proceed to snap things off! Sort of like liquid drain cleaners -- pour it in, let it sit for a bit, then go get the snake and clear it out. Of course, it is my inept technique which explains this phenomenon, and no lack of efficacy on the part of these fine products!