the door switch for the interior light (over the mirror). I guess it's not like the regular car push button switch.
My light, with the switch, in the middle position flashes on and off when hitting a bump, braking, etc. On position works OK and off position works as it should.
I'm presuming a dirty or malfunctioning door switch, but I can't find the damn thing![]()
The switch is in the latch mechanism mounted to the body. It's a common wear item over years and years of door openings.
- - - Updated - - -
51 21 8 399 245 on bavauto.com
Does your window go all nutty when you hit a bump too? Signs you need a new switch. ^try the part number Above. Worked to me too
AFE 3.5" intake, 3.5" Euro HFM, 24# Injectors, TMS Chip, TMS Pulleys, TMS Shorty Headers, AA Track Pipe, Borla Catback, Billstein Sport Shocks, H&R Springs, TMS Adjustable trailing arms, X-Brace, TMS Front and Rear Strut Tower Braces, UUC Evo III SSK, UUC Shift Nob, DSSR selector rod, Fan delete.....
Or if money is tight or time doesn't permit, wrap a zip tie around the switch mechanism to hold it in place until you can get a more permanent fix.
AFE 3.5" intake, 3.5" Euro HFM, 24# Injectors, TMS Chip, TMS Pulleys, TMS Shorty Headers, AA Track Pipe, Borla Catback, Billstein Sport Shocks, H&R Springs, TMS Adjustable trailing arms, X-Brace, TMS Front and Rear Strut Tower Braces, UUC Evo III SSK, UUC Shift Nob, DSSR selector rod, Fan delete.....
Thanks guys. Window not affected. Gonna have to wait for better weather (rain today) to get the car out of the garage so I can open the door all the way.
Again, thanks
Bill
Last edited by Wertles; 01-13-2014 at 04:53 PM.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
So the striker plate is the light switch?(Syk1Z3's part #) That's really weird. No wonder I couldn't find it.
btw that switch interchangable with e36 ones. i couldnt find with z3 part number and bought e36 one instead * and cheaper too
Think I found the problem. I got it out in the sunlight today and found this. Apparently I will have to buy a $40+ part to fix this rubber piece? BTW, the light has only malfunctioned one day/time.
bmw door switch 1.jpg
Last edited by Bill Terry; 01-15-2014 at 05:01 PM.
Think some contact cement, some wax paper and a couple of hose clamps may fix it.
SUSPICIONS CONFIRMED: Today on two short trips the lights blinked on and off going around corners or small bumps in the pavement. I stopped (both times and opened and closed the door a bit harder and this stopped the blinking light.
So it's apparent that the split latch rubber (pictured previously) is the culprit. When the weather gets warmer I'll try to repair it but for now I'll just have to remember to close the door a bit harder.
I wouldn't be closing the door any harder than normal - one always pays for that with other things coming lose etc. But a different approach I've taken with similar latches/posts is: to strip the posts down to bare metal, and then wrap it with thin Teflon extruded strip - maybe 1 cm wide and 1 mm thick, putting a layer of glue between each warp, building it back up to the original thickness, and making sure that the end of the last wrap is on the back side so that the latch can't undo it. Generally have found doing such makes for posts that well outlast the original. And while waiting for the glue to cure, wrap and compress it with a hose clamp.
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