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Thread: F/I engine oil weight choice?

  1. #26
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    No oil temp gauge but uhhh no problems lol since i have an old m50 in therr i don't even change the oil its been like 9k on e85 and im really not caring.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    No oil temp gauge but uhhh no problems lol since i have an old m50 in therr i don't even change the oil its been like 9k on e85 and im really not caring.
    That's because you can take care of her with your own two hands! lol

    I stick to 10-40 all year round, just installed Oil cooler last fall but my Oil temp is not working so can't input the results yet.
    Last edited by Virg///M3; 01-13-2014 at 12:54 PM.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    No oil temp gauge but uhhh no problems lol since i have an old m50 in therr i don't even change the oil its been like 9k on e85 and im really not caring.
    damn u cray cray son! I'm runnin' a thermostated cooler, but not bothering with a gauge because they're ugly. I currently use the T6 in everything but the s52 (castrol instead) and really like it. The r6 loves it, so I think that is good enough for a s52t

  4. #29
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    As long as you keep an eye on pressure you should be fine, obviously never beat on it when cold but i dont beat on my car until the water temp is 12 oclock with the low temp thermostat.

  5. #30
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    Realistically you should always go by oil temp and not by water temps, especially since the E36 gauge is buffered and reaches half well before 70 deg C.

    Plus oil take much, much longer to reach proper operating temps then coolant does. So if you're really worried about minimizing damage you should always wait until your Oil temps are correct before "beating on it" :P

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS VR View Post
    Realistically you should always go by oil temp and not by water temps, especially since the E36 gauge is buffered and reaches half well before 70 deg C.

    Plus oil take much, much longer to reach proper operating temps then coolant does. So if you're really worried about minimizing damage you should always wait until your Oil temps are correct before "beating on it" :P
    Love the Euro gauge cluster for this reason
    "There are bold drivers and there are old drivers, but there are no bold, old drivers."

  7. #32
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    ^ agreed, but at the same token, I think guys like e36 hater and I live by the "ehh close enough" rule of life. If the water is up to temp, then the oil is warm enough to start having some fun.

  8. #33
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    Notorious i know that the gauge is buffered and i know that oil temp takes much longer to get warm unlike water. With that being said im not putting an oil temp gauge in my car until I blow a motor or a turbo due to my methods. That is all.

  9. #34
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    ^^ yup, I wasn't directing it completely to you. I was also just stating it for general info

  10. #35
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    2004 BMW 545i
    Mobil 1. 0w40 European is good all around for bmw 's.

  11. #36
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    I use 15w50 in my drift car. Hot texas heat + hot lapping and I've got 5-8psi at low idle according to my MXL logs. The 50w helps maintain some hot idle pressure compared to thinner stuff. I religiously wait until 140 F oil temp measured in the pan before beating on the car hard at all. This is always substantially after the water has come up to temp, sometimes 15+ minutes of engine running before a hard lap just waiting for all 8+ quarts of oil to heat up thoroughly.

    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    As long as you keep an eye on pressure you should be fine, obviously never beat on it when cold but i dont beat on my car until the water temp is 12 oclock with the low temp thermostat.
    It's good that you wait, but the water temp gauge is a really bad indication of oil temp in general. In my black street car, I had the factory gauges, and the MXL in front of them logging. I've seen my water temp needle show "fully warm" i.e. 12:30 on the gauge at as low as 110 F water temp (which could be 50 F oil temp, or something way too cold depending on ambient temp) and stay in that position until 220 F +.

    Mike
    IG: @mikevanshellenbeck

  12. #37
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    I love t6 5w-40. It has stopped my flickering oil light and my pressure is right at 15 at idle.
    2010 135i- Space Grey/Coral/Msport-JB4 G5 ISO, Burger DCI's, wedge flash, E85
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  13. #38
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    I think I have 15w50 rotella in mine.
    1985 325 - 5 speed - LSD - M50NV - MS2/extra - AEM UEGO - TiAL MV-R - 750cc injectors - HX35 - Blunttech Manifold - 3" exhaust
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  14. #39
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    I have been using 5w50 for years...
    Insufficient funds...

  15. #40
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    i go oil free, to much resistance fighting that heavy petroleum
    "There are bold drivers and there are old drivers, but there are no bold, old drivers."

  16. #41
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    Olive oil works well! Extra virgin, of course....
    Insufficient funds...

  17. #42
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    15w50 rotella, with factory bearing clearances.
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  18. #43
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    I messed around with brad penn semi-syn 10w40 last year but I didn't like the lower oil pressure it gave me. I run Shell T6 5w40

  19. #44
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    Yeah, and stuff like that.
    Last edited by Butters Stoch; 03-20-2014 at 01:56 PM.
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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  20. #45
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    Unfortunately I cannot do anything about this in FI forum, but I'll forward it to Kevlar.
    -Joe

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Yup I think that should about do it. Maybe take a deep breath and count to 10. Then edit the kaka words. ; ) you bring too much to the community to have you banned as well
    I deleted my post (with useful content) that was hacked/spammed, but that didn't seem to affect the quotes.

    I'm pissed they spammed me, but perhaps more pissed that my legitimate requests for action have been ignored.

    I'm starting to count now...

  22. #47
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    is it just me or does the f/i section need more monitoring??
    "There are bold drivers and there are old drivers, but there are no bold, old drivers."

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    I'm starting to count now...
    Might want to add in 5 Hail Marys and 2 Our Fathers , Randy.
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdmbmw View Post
    is it just me or does the f/i section need more monitoring??
    Too much is bad; too little is bad; but some is good.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    I would go with the lightest weight oil that gets you good oil pressure under your operating conditions.
    +1

    Big thing is pick your oil weight to the driving you will be doing.

    Example - 202rwhp E36 M, Track only with no oil cooler. I run 10w-60 and have no temp/heat problems.
    996TT - Stock runs 10w-40 and some times 10w-50 and even in 775hp we use the same oil for daily drivers.
    Street M3 - 10w-30 or 0w-40 depending on the exterior temp.

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