E39 540i Touring Manual Conversion Checklist & Wiring / Coding

[thinksonix]

Do you know something about accelerator pedal? On my automatic 540 01 there is accelerator mounted on the floor and it has connector what is not comapitble with the "same looking" accelerator pedal from 530D manual. i have seen on realoem but there is no difference between these socket housing (the part number is the same for the connector), but in real world, there is some difference, because i can't connect 530D manual accelerator pedal to my chasis. i can't find the part number of the socket housing because there is only exists one part number for every accelerator pedal connector

[thinksonix]

https://a.d-cd.net/40c1162s-960.jpg

https://clip2net.com/clip/m0/55938-clip-33kb.jpg

These connectors has same part number. The first connector is what i have in car and the second what i need. But how can i buy this connector, if there is the same part number for both. The throttle pedal should be compatible with 530D manual and 540I manual, but the connectors are not same

[thinksonix]

I will answer to myself: There are 2 types of connector from factory- Manual X Automatic.these connectors are different from factory, but when you order from ETK (doesnť matter if you order this connector for AT or MAN), you got universal connector which will fit to both accelerator pedal. And of course - there is no difference between facelift MANUAL accelerator pedals (without M5).

[pyite69]

Hello, thanks for this amazing thread. I'm finally getting this project done. Donor is a 2002 M5 with bad engine, target is a 1999 540i. These two both have the same pedal setup -- the pre-facelift drive-by-wire.

From the instructions:

> Inductive clutch switch with wiring 'adapter' harness for 540
> ...
> M5 part will snap onto the clutch master but WILL NOT WORK

Is this still valid? I looked at the clutch switch part numbers for both cars on Pelican and both cars can apparently use either 61-31-9-231-129 or 61-31-8-363-710.

Also, are there any significant differences between this pedal setup and the one in the original document as far as wiring? It doesn't appear so.

Thanks,
Mark

[blackknight530i]

Hello, thanks for this amazing thread. I'm finally getting this project done. Donor is a 2002 M5 with bad engine, target is a 1999 540i. These two both have the same pedal setup -- the pre-facelift drive-by-wire.

From the instructions:

> Inductive clutch switch with wiring 'adapter' harness for 540
> ...
> M5 part will snap onto the clutch master but WILL NOT WORK

Is this still valid? I looked at the clutch switch part numbers for both cars on Pelican and both cars can apparently use either 61-31-9-231-129 or 61-31-8-363-710.

Also, are there any significant differences between this pedal setup and the one in the original document as far as wiring? It doesn't appear so.

Thanks,
Mark

You need the 540i inductive sensor for the clutch switch. The M5 and 540 have reversed signal voltage.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[pyite69]

You need the 540i inductive sensor for the clutch switch. The M5 and 540 have reversed signal voltage.

I have one question, but first let me share the things I figured out over the weekend:

1) You cannot trust Pelican Parts or RealOEM when it comes to this part.
2) The M5 versions I have seen are brown

Here is a photo of the M5 version, and the non-M5 (and non-genuine) part with the connector. It looks like this part works on all non-M5 8-cylinder and 6-cylinder E39s:

e39_clutch_switches.jpg

It has been difficult to find the pinout for this connector that I cut from the junkyard. The thread refers to a single "top" and single "bottom" wire.

My question: Which colors are top and bottom, and what do I do with the other 2 wires? I would guess that the two blue wires are just ground but typically brown is the ground color so I don't want to make any assumptions here.

Thank you!
Mark

[blackknight530i]

pyite69, all M5 inductive clutch switches are brown, all non-M e39 inductive clutch switches are black. That is how you can differentiate them. You are correct that RealOEM is incorrect on this info, especially because they don't sell the old type clutch switches anymore, so people get really confused with the colors of those.

Anyways, here's the pin configuration of the inductive switch. Pin 1 is ground, pin 2 is the clutch signal going to the x6011 connector, pin 3 is power and pin 4 is the start interlock wire. When you have two separate switches, you would have 3 wires going to each switch, but 2 of the wires going to each switch are power and ground and the other is the signal. When they combined it into one switch, they just made the signal of the start interlock pin 4 of the 4 pin connector.

To clarify, pin 1 of the black switch in your picture is brown with a black stripe and is ground, pin 2 is a blue with black stripe wire that is the cruise cutout signal, pin 3 is violet with white stripe and is your power, and pin 4 is black with blue stripe, which is your start interlock wire.

Hope that helps. Basically, use the black switch if you're not swapping to a S62, or use the brown switch if you are.

[pyite69]

Next question - does the X33 ignition connector use the same 4mm round pin size as the E30 C101, C191, and X20 connectors?

If so, there is a pin removal tool available to take these pins out without destroying the plastic connector.

Otherwise, getting the ignition pin out safely is going to be practically impossible.

Thanks,
Mark

[pyite69]

pin 3 is violet with white stripe and is your power

OK thanks. Where does the power come from? Do I just add a fused wire to a 12v source like I did with the heated steering wheel retrofit or is there a better way?

FYI I also bought a non-butchered clutch switch connector that goes to the 3-pin blue and 1-pin purple connectors, if that would be easier to use. Part number 61 11 6 911 072

[blackknight530i]

OK thanks. Where does the power come from? Do I just add a fused wire to a 12v source like I did with the heated steering wheel retrofit or is there a better way?

FYI I also bought a non-butchered clutch switch connector that goes to the 3-pin blue and 1-pin purple connectors, if that would be easier to use. Part number 61 11 6 911 072

Yeah, I usually buy that harness and cut the car side connectors off and wire the remaining wires to my own wiring for the swap.

As for 12v power and ground, use the brake light switch wiring. You just need to tap into the power and ground on the brake light switch.

[pyite69]

Next question - does the X33 ignition connector use the same 4mm round pin size as the E30 C101, C191, and X20 connectors?

Yes, it does! Anyone who is going to rewire the ignition, or do work on the DME or radio connections in the back, should get a pin removal tool like this one from https://falkmfg.com/ - also known as jjs3dprinting on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164640758464

Here is what it looks like: BMW_pin_tool.jpg

I'm so excited, the car is all back together now and only the coding left to do.

[pyite69]

Yay, I have the car back with the 6-speed and it is running very well so far. Thanks everyone for the help!

This thread has been great, and ShopLifeTV's 540i manual swap video dropped right as I started doing the wiring. It has some good video to get a visual of where things are.

Mark

[pyite69]

I did have one edge case that caused some trouble. I have a 1999 wagon that was manufactured in September 1998. This means I have the initial drive-by-wire system, but the older turn signal wiring, which was changed in 3/99. The window for this combination is quite small, so hopefully it is a rare edge case.

This made the pedal swap easier since the donor car was an M5. All E39 M5s use the first version of the drive-by-wire pedal. However, the turn signals and high beams didn't work after the swap due to incompatible switch wiring.

The way I fixed this was to edit the LCM trace file with NCS Dummy, change to the 4 wire signal, and then write out with NCS Expert. This was the second option in the list, super easy.

Some coding details here... the original VIN is based on DR63, but the GM code was 5B630000 (a sedan code) for some reason. I used the GM code 5D510004 for the swap (4 == French, I did this just to make sure the cluster was taking the change). This corresponds to a DR51 car - Rest of World M62TU Touring 6-speed. Unfortunately for me this code will cause the LCM to assume a 2 wire turn signal/high beam stalk.

Fun stuff, I've learned a lot.

[pyite69]

There is one last issue to resolve here - the differential ratio and cruise control.

The classic symptom after a 540i auto->manual swap is that cruise only works in lower gears and disengages frequently, which is what I'm seeing. This seems to be caused by the the computer not knowing about the higher 3.15 ratio in the automatic differential (same ratio as the M5 diff which I am hoping to move over soon).

Has anyone figured out how to code the ratio from NCS Expert? I haven't seen a good answer to this question in 10 years of threads, so I'm not getting a good feeling. I am planning about 5000 miles of driving this summer so I'm highly motivated to get it working.

[KeysCoupe]

I have the same cruise control problem in my R53 Mini after swapping an ‘05 transaxle into my ‘03 car. There is a slight final drive ratio difference between the early and late cars, and my cruise control now won’t engage over about 25 mph.
I’m curious how you solve your issue.
-Donny

[blackknight530i]

There is one last issue to resolve here - the differential ratio and cruise control.

The classic symptom after a 540i auto->manual swap is that cruise only works in lower gears and disengages frequently, which is what I'm seeing. This seems to be caused by the the computer not knowing about the higher 3.15 ratio in the automatic differential (same ratio as the M5 diff which I am hoping to move over soon).

Has anyone figured out how to code the ratio from NCS Expert? I haven't seen a good answer to this question in 10 years of threads, so I'm not getting a good feeling. I am planning about 5000 miles of driving this summer so I'm highly motivated to get it working.

Easy to do, look for the cruisefix DME programming files in the "State of the M5 Cluster Mod" thread on bimmerforums. TerraPhantm made the files available to flash using WinKFP. For the 01+ models it even has the M5 cluster mod done already as well.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[pyite69]

Easy to do, look for the cruisefix DME programming files in the "State of the M5 Cluster Mod" thread on bimmerforums. TerraPhantm

I haven't had any luck finding this, and TerraPhantm hasn't responded. If anyone has this file available, please let me know.

I'm getting Peake code 69 errors (ECC memory errors on the DME) so I'm going to be replacing the DME soon and I may as well do this at the same time. I also can't wait to get rid of the default automatic tune - there is like a 3 second pause after lifting the throttle at high RPMs.

- - - Updated - - -

Quick update - I finally got springs & shocks replaced on all 4 corners.

I was surprised that it made the clutch engagement so much better. Now it feels the way it should. It wasn't all that much fun to drive for the first few months, sadly.

The front shocks were more or less dead and I had the wrong front springs - green instead of brown.

[ZillaSlides96]

Any chance anyone knows someone who can code everything for a manual swap in the nor cal area?

[pyite69]

OK I finally got the manual DME tune installed, and it feels like a proper stick shift now.

All I needed was WinKFP, the expert mode tutorial is here: http://blog.chinacardiags.com/how-to...configuration/ - comfort mode did not work for me.

I found a 2015 version of TerraPhantm's tune for program/assembly/ZB number 7539302 in this thread, along with the other model years: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...3#post28320993 - this tune is supposed to allow the cruise control to work with the 3.15 rear end, and I should be able to move my 2002 M5 dashboard over as well.

Yay!

[BGameiro]

Confirmed - found the starter relay in the ebox (not under the dash). DME bypass to starter relay trick will work splendidly. Will post a pick and first start video once complete.

It runs!!

Pre 03/1997 e39 starter relay IS in the ebox unlike other models where its behind the glovebox. It in the top bank of relays and dme fuses. This is not documented in the WDS or literally anywhere else. I had a hunch, but had to trace back wire 1 off the EWS to confirm.

Shorted pins 6 and 2 on the relay with key at pos 2 and it cranked and started right up! Now I just have to find the ignition wire off pin 8 in the ebox, splice it to 85, and ground 86 and its done!

First of all I would like to thank geargrinder for the extremely comprehensive guide. It was extremely helpful in my case since these cars are extremely rare in my country and no one knows how to do these kind of swaps

Since my 540i is a 06/97 is there any difference in the wiring besides the fact that the starter relay ia probably in the e-box?
For example my clutch switch has 2 pins instead of the 4 mentioned in the guide.

[ViktorVaughn]

Can anyone please tell me where they ground the eyelet added to the EWS position 8 wire(for the secondary method of wiring autostart)? I've looked around the passenger footwell and can't find a good chassis ground.

Thanks!

Update: Cleaned up an area on the dash frame with a stud on it near the EWS - worked and car started right up

[Ed Cheung]

Actual I am trying to re-wire the car so I can get back the PDC and stuff, I get the part about the cluster pin 25 , but on the part before, where do I wire the reverse switch to? And I just run a wire from pin 19 from the DME to the cluster?
Sorry, kind of confuse on this.

[K.Mojo]

file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/23/03/77E372D8-864B-41FD-A326-5247429A5E3B/IMG_2216.heic

[K.Mojo]

Thank you a 1000 times geargrinder!!! Just took the first drive in my triple pedal touring and couldn’t be happier! Ten years on, and your write up is still bearing fruit.

[Ramius665]

Is recoding the DME with a new ZB required for proper function? I have an Alpina B10 V8 Touring that is about to get a manual trans and I'm concerned about losing the correct tune for my engine. My DME is Alpina 13-56-691. Or, put a different way, is there a way to modify the DME to keep the original engine tune but code the manual transmission?