The sedan with the bad (but maybe salvageable) motor...I'm working on acquiring the wagon. I'm still fishing around because who knows when I'll actually have time to sort out the engine. I need something that runs that I can use in the mean time. I don't get into hardly anything without a plan...
I'll bear that in mind. Local dealership told me it was something they could do a few years ago (or not this same thing, I can't remember why I inquired, it was back when I had my 328i).For the 80th time (not your fault...) Dealership can't do this. Not normal dealerships at any rate. The factory software they get is NOT capable of the stuff required to do the recoding and there is NO factory authorized refit procedure. Period.
If a dealer 'can do it' it'd only because they have some master tech who's a bit of a hacker and has the 'unapproved / unofficial' tools we have. There are some rare dealerships like that I guess but 99% of the 'sling cars to hairdressers and charge them as much as we can for oil changes' dealers will be clueless on this.
I'm even quite sure they might tell you "oh yes we can" but I also can tell you they'll be happy to have you bring the car in and futz with it for a day or two before saying "oh we didn't realize we can't do this". Its NOT a hard job but it is WAY off the 'officially permitted procedures' chart.
Got it.eBay - find a "BMW K+DCAN cable". Some are better than others but they're dirt cheap. Some of the ones with poorer PCB layout can overheat if used for a longer period and then will shut down or at extremes even burn out. I have handfuls of them just in case but truthfully haven't burned one out in a few years.
Got it.For software, google "Mike's Easy BMW Tools Package".
I'm pretty competent with computers and spend a lot of my time dealing with Sirona's (I don't expect many people to really know who they are) oddball interfaces. I'm a little use to it. I'm sure it'll be confusing as shit and the learning curve will be steep but I bet I can figure it out. I'm seeing a lot of tutorials on YouTube.How computer friendly are you? The only difficulty once you get the software setup is that the menu interface on some of this software is a bit arcane and clunky.
Stuff like: "what, why do I click 'DONE' on this menu when I'm really not even close to done, I really only just started?!?" or "wait... last time I was on this menu there was (was not) another choice there!? how did it come and go? wait now this list from clicking button X has differnt stuff on it!?".
As long as you get comfortable that some of the steps to follow are semi-arcane like that (aka clicking "done" when you're only "done" with a first pre-procedure) the rest of it is pretty easy. And if you own a BMW post 1990's then having the software is an awesome thing to have anyway - even if you aren't doing a swap.
Gone unfortunately...I guess I need to remove it from my profile.BTW, to work w/ your E36 you might want to also order an OBD to 20-pin adapter (should be like $6).
I'll look into it. Once I'm in these projects I grab at any diagnostic tool I can get.You might also want to look at some PASoft BMW Scanner packages on ebay, that software is non-factory but has a slicker interface for reading codes and unlike the BMW stuff, won't throw error codes up at you in German that you have to then translate on the side. It will NOT REPLACE all the functions of the BMW software however so it's an "also" not an "either" in this case. You need the first cable and software to do some of the recoding for sure.
geargrinder...just to be clear...once the 6-speed is swapped in the car will run and drive, just throw a lot of error codes at me, right?
If it's done according to the procedure, it will not throw any error codes.
I have heard of people just bypassing the start switch in the auto shifter switch and driving off with their dash lit up likr a Christmas tree, but it wouldn't be great, and certainly wouldn't pass any inspection.
Absinthe makes the tart grow fonder
There are a couple nuances, and optional procedures (manual wiring options, clutch switch delete programming) but yes, following this procedure will get your car driveable without codes and everything in working order including cruise, cruise shutoff, and reverse lights..
At least no codes related to your swap.
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
525i / Dinan Tune / Morimoto MH1 HID / BC Racing Coil-over
540i Dinan 5 / 6 Speed+M5 drivetrain / M5 HID / M5 Alcantara Interior
Your question is unclear which is why there are 2 different replies already that may both be correct.
If you mean "will the car run/drive with only the hardware and without the wiring/coding"?
Meh. Maybe. Maybe you can do a hack to the wiring to get it to "run" but even so it will run like crap on the auto automatic tune with no tranny to talk to. There are some crap conversions floating around done like this by shadetree shop hacks and they are an embarrassment and should be set on fire.
If you mean "if I do it ALL will it run but still have codes?" No, done properly the car will run brilliantly as a factory made car.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Will the 4.4 fit in an I6 wagon? I've come across a sport package 525 wagon with no engine or transmission, but straight otherwise and a clean title. I'm considering investing in fixing the engine I got (new guides at least, and probably new heads) and swapping it all over. I know it will involve swapping IT ALL over...likely even all the wiring harnesses that are threaded through everything...but it seems I've read somewhere that the engine will not physically FIT in the I6 chassis'.
Can anyone confirm that?
Last edited by StRaNgEdAyS; 09-07-2017 at 09:24 PM.
-Paul
2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers, Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers
All 525 e39s are 2001-2003 and facelift.
Yes, the whole subframe, suspension, and steering rack are interchangeable, but you have to do all of it. I6 suspension doesn't work with V8 subframe for example. You need to swap the entire front end basically. If you have a donor car, this is pretty simple. Cooling system is also different, so you'll need the expansion tank and heater hoses from the 540i to swap. Heater control valve has a different location and plug, but can be adapted from the I6 one like in my DIY for the S62.
A 2000 540i is not a facelift, but the engine computer is still the later one that shares basically the same wiring as the 525i M54 engine. It should work, but you might need to do a few wiring changes.
My DIY thread for the S62 swap is here: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...39-525-530-540
-Paul
2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers, Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers
Yeah shouldn't be hard. The 2000 540 is that "half facelift" car so I'd think it'd be reasonably easy.
If you virginize the 540 DME you shouldn't even have to swap EWS or locks.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
That simplifies it a little...I just have to decide if I want to strip the entire front clip lol
There's a metal bracket (green) mounted on the trans tunnel where the shifter arm bearing (14 red) resides.
Is that bracket already fitted to automatic e39s or is that something I need to cut off my donor car and welded in
Last edited by SirTweakAlot; 10-13-2017 at 11:14 PM.
The bracket is already there, the bushing simply clips into place
Absinthe makes the tart grow fonder
Hi all
Question for madhakish.
I've got a pre facelift 02/98 540i saloon, carried out the swap and all. I have read your part regarding the auto start disable and can now see where I was going wrong. (Tried using original thread guide to learn you can't obviously use the same pin 6 & 40.) So all i need to do is join/splice pin 9 & 12 at the DME and front the EWS pin 8?
Hope that's come across ok.
Thanks in advance
Josh
Yeah I didn't grasp the pre-face issues /w starting completely I don't think... this is a TOURING conversion thread, and is USA oriented, and there are very very few pre-facelift 540 Tourings here, so it wasn't really 'in scope', however clearly this thread is getting used by all kinds of guys doing all kinds of 'related' type swaps.
Josh, hopefully madhakish rings in and can help more, but I just spent a few minutes poking around the WDS. He mentions starter relay a few times and that's a bit funny and perhaps wrong, although he might have indeed made the car start and run fine with one...
I don't believe ANY manual cars are supposed to have starter relays. The EWS IS a relay and BMW started phasing out outboard relays because the EWS serves that function. The 'auto start' cars got an extra relay because they needed to have extra DME control and not use the EWS for it but all the manuals I believe should not have a starter relay.
Here's the tricky bit, and why I say "seems" and "believe". Basically it seems to me the WDS has an error.
On a post 3/97 pre-facelift, the WDS claims there in fact is a relay, however I believe this is a mistake in the WDS and somebody effed up and mislabeled the "auto" and "manual" diagrams. If you look at all the other wiring diagrams for the starter system in that same period of manual cars there are no relays. Basically the starter control diagram and all the other diagrams don't match up... unless you look at the auto and manual and realize the both don't make sense and then put the one labeled 'auto' in as the manual and vice versa.
Labeled 'manual', actually probably 'auto':
Labeled 'auto', actually probably 'manual':
OK so tricky bit is that a lot of the EWS containing diagrams don't show the pins. I assume that is because they are trying to obfuscate and make hot-wiring more difficult for the bad guys, but you can go to the individual pages for the EWS modules and find the pinouts.
Without solving your problem for you, here's the EWS diagram for your car WITH THE AUTO (aka what you started with...) Notice it has a relay.
And here's what EWS should be for a manual Aka a post 09/97 non-USA manual car... Notice it does NOT have a relay, and indeed that's what makes me pretty sure the other diagrams are mislabeled.
That doesn't mean you have to wire it up exactly factory, with the facelifts we now recommend/show the workaround if you want an easy shortcut to the wiring in a swap situation, but it should give you something to go on.
And here's your EWS pinout for all post 09/97 cars, auto or manual. I'm not sure it's any different from the facelifts honestly, because a 98 car has EWS3, and its the pre-03/97 cars that are really he EWS 2 issue I think but at any rate... Like I say not solving your problem for you but here's all the info...
http://www.bmw-planet.net/diagrams/r...E39_PA836E.htm
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
In for an elaboration on this. I have been sifting through this thread for awhile getting my notes ready. I already have my Full Donor car stripped (01' 525i) and the Trans is to be going into my 99' 528iT. Again, everything is pulled from Donor car, trans, Shifter, Motor + DME, Pedal Assembly Etc..
I am purchasing a New Booster and Clutch master this week and would like to get started here soon, But what Wiring issues (other than the normal swap issues) Should i expect using a Facelift Trans in a Pre-Facelift wagon?
Thanks!
Hey guys,
So as geargrinder noted, leaving the relay in place isn't "stock" like a proper manual, however the relay is simply closing the circuit from battery to starter which is activated by the 12v ign position 3. Everything from the relay on be the same as stock manual wiring, bypass the ews, etc.. By default, the relay feeds the EWS, which runs the auto-start. Bypassing the EWS applies the output of the relay directly to the starter. IIRC (it's been a while), in the manual wiring of this era, the 3rd position 12v is a direct power line of sufficient gauge to supply amperage needed to power the starter directly from the ignition wiring harness. In autos, and perhaps later model manuals (not sure), position 3 is a low amperage signal wire to trigger the relay and the relay acts as the direct feed from the battery to the starter. If memory serves, this is the major difference between manual and automatic wiring, and is the reason for the relay. Without the relay, the + wire from the ignition would need to be rewired with a lower gauge to power the starter (and perhaps why a relay was used instead).
In a '97 and some '98s the easiest change is to splice into the relay wiring (simply due to ease of accessibility) and bypass the ews. Second easiest would be to bypass the relay entirely, and run a lower gauge (12 or 10) from the ignition wiring harness at post 3 spliced into to the starter +, which would result in an effectively stock manual wiring setup which would have come from the factory.
That said - I'm typing this without my notes while drinking a beer, so my memory may not be 100% accurate.
FWIW, this is identical for touring and non-touring as far as I can see.
-Tom
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525i / Dinan Tune / Morimoto MH1 HID / BC Racing Coil-over
540i Dinan 5 / 6 Speed+M5 drivetrain / M5 HID / M5 Alcantara Interior
I would also note that the WDS diagrams for the variants are not 100% accurate, and that pre-98's seem to be special. Nothing was in the place anything said it should be.
What I can tell you however is that for early models, *nothing* required is located in the cab, under the dash, or behind the glove box. 100% of the wiring changes necessary for a '97 are in the ebox. I know this because I ripped apart the entire interior looking for all the pinouts and wiring until I found the WDS diagrams and located the relay.. this vintage is most definitely NOT what's wired up in newer models (pinouts, locations, relays - nothing is the same) so mileage may vary..
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
525i / Dinan Tune / Morimoto MH1 HID / BC Racing Coil-over
540i Dinan 5 / 6 Speed+M5 drivetrain / M5 HID / M5 Alcantara Interior
Hello, I recently picked up a 2002 540i ( factory 6 speed). for whatever reason, The previous owner changed key, ews, and dme from a donor car that is automatic. I have winkfp but not sure how to import right daten data and flash dme to manual. any help is greatly appreciated.
Since you are in this thread & forum, I assume you have a wagon.
I have some news for you. It's not a factory 6-speed. There's no such thing. The previous owner was likely in the middle of a swap from an auto to a manual and didn't finish it (because it's not just about flashing, you also have to do a bunch of wiring). Read this thread.
Last edited by JoshS; 11-30-2017 at 07:39 PM.
I like the unicorns.
'99 Z3 Coupe - Jet Black/Black (1-of-114)
'99 M Coupe - Estoril Blue/Black (1-of-82)
'03 540iT - Sterling Gray/Black (1-of-24)
'16 Z4 sDrive35i - Estoril Blue/Walnut (1-of-8)
If it's a sedan and was always a standard, and the guy just swapped all the stuff for some other reason... Then
1. As mentioned you're in the wrong place,
2. It shouldn't be hard, should flash over easily...
The right place for answers would be diagnostic forum... You need basic "how to setup and use Winkfp" help and I've only said "this ain't a general how-to INPA/WinKFP thread...." a dozen times...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
when the timing chain guide job has left you too poor to attempt a manual swap for several months
Looking for an e39 Touring black carpet set, including the rear cargo cubbies and side sections!
ALSO looking for 540i 6speed manual transmission sets (2001+ pedals with switches, driveshaft, gearbox), for the 6speed swap! Probably not for a while....
GN92489
540i msport touring; jet black on grey
Progress Thread (general)
Progress thread (touring specific)
I checked the vin of my car. it is factory 6 speed. The previous owner swapped the dme,ews,and key. I 'm guessing dme was bad but who knows. winkfp is good to go but when I go to comfort mode I can't find my zusb. I have the latest daten files for e39. Thanks in advance.
Started my M5T for the first time today. Wouldn't have happened without this wiring guide! Thank you for puting it together.
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