There is an error in the auto start disable section, it talks about X6004 it should be X60004.
Also you might want to update BMW Planet to newtis.info as it requires no old browsers or java.
Well, thanks for that, although it had the right number four times, only one typo in the last reference... so I doubt anybody really could get it confused/wrong unless they were trying hard, but... fixed...
Nope. BMWPlanet is a PITA to get running unless you know the drill (in which case its really not so bad) but its 10x better. newtis.info doesn't seem to have all the same data and/or if it does its much harder to find the diagrams and component info. Usability for n00bz is higher, but actual information-functionality, much lower.
The drill for BMWPlanet is:
- Install an obsolete browser. I suggest Firefox 51.0. You have to go into special archives to find it but its available.
- Turn off automatic updates IMMEDIATELY before the browser updates itself.
- Install SVG client and Java http://www.bmw-planet.net/diagrams/
- Open "Configure Java" and add "http://bmw-planet.net" to security exception list. I usually do that and "http://www.bmw-planet.net" although that shouldn't strictly be necessary...
- ???
- Profit!
Once you do that all you need to do is give the right answers every time you open Firefox and open the site... "Run" and not "Cancel"... and it all works fine. You can even update Java when you get the prompts, you just can't update Firefox.
Last edited by geargrinder; 08-03-2018 at 03:28 PM. Reason: added SVG client mention
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
GG - Maybe you can shed some light on what I did wrong...
New Win10 (x64) laptop. Followed your directions (installed 51.0), installed Java, made Security Exception entries.
When loading BMW-Planet, I get "A pluging is needed..."
Thoughts?
Sorry. Should have been more explicit about the SVG client too. Changed the post to so reflect.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
BTW If you're just looking for wiring I've still left this up (but haven't worked on any improvements):
http://iho-bmw.s3-website-us-west-2....ws.com/e39new/
I don't think it gets enough traffic for Amazon to bill me.
At this point, yours may be the only game in town... http://www.bmw-planet.net/cgi-sys/suspendedpage.cgi does not seem to have paid their bill (??) Suggests that it was suspended 3 days ago. FYI...
Yours works great in Chrome but Edge does not like it.
DaveyCoins this is the post you should have been directed to once your question was posted!
This is one of the best write ups I have come across!
Forward it to your guys this should help!
Geargrinder Writes-
- "Unlike prior cars, The Post Facelift E39 clutch switches are inductively triggered by a single module that connects to the clutch master cylinder and provides 2 different output signals."
OK I have a PRE FACELIFT E39 with the mid period rheostat accelerator . How does the clutch switch differ in function and would an M5 clutch switch work with these?
Well timed "Sir" (if that IS your real name...).
I've been meaning to make a post about this topic. Stand by for further instructions.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
GG, think this could be my issue or are you still thinking gear ratio coding is off?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
DUDE. I thought you knew NEVER do that. I bet you know not to do that for the bikes, right? I could be driving a low miles GT2 for what I got into my car!!!! (slight exaggeration. but only slight).
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
The bikes....not historically. Unfortunately need to start keeping a tighter reign on such things.
The car gets what she needs regardless. Still have less into this car than anything I could get new for the same $, none of which interests me anyway.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Seems like a lot of swaps don't have the cruise control working properly... there was one on BaT that had the same issue. Weird how shops don't bother fixing that, I guess they're just ignorant.
1995 525i 5-speed - Thread
No that's the well doc'd behavior. Its purely the 'gear detection ranges' in the tune. Easily fixed and Terra has posted the fixes for everybody to use.
But. VERY VERY few shops have the slightest idea what WinKFP and NCSExpert are and/or how to flash stuff like that. They might use ISTA maybe, but ISTA is limited to what BMW allows you to do, and certainly to get it to flash a custom file like that you'd still have to know some nitty gritty details about where exacty to dump the 0DA files that Terra made and then go force a flash update to the DME.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I have read the majority of this thread and I understand that it will be easier to swap the transmission from like year cars. A friend of mine has decided his '97 540i 6 speed sedan is not worth fixing after being hit on the driver side (bumper to bumper sideswipe). The engine and transmission are in good working order and he wants to know if I want them to put into my wagon, I would be getting everything from the transmission to the differential from the sedan. I only have a few questions:
Would there be anything different on a RHD swap than on a regular LHD swap?
Would I be able to run the 1997's DME on the 2000, I know that the engine in the '97 is the M62B44 and the engine in my 2000 is the M62TUB44 (wondering if this could potentially circumvent the wiring required)
Or should I wait for a 2000 6speed to come up for sale? (Only wondering because I am benefiting from the "you're my friend so you can take it if you want it" discount)
Super LULZ. Nope I think you missed most of the details. You’re pretty much 100% upside down on the facts.
- The older cars tranny will be fine. There is no, and has never been, any mention of tranny-year issues here. The tranny is fine.
- DME and motor swap actually would solve NO - ZERO - wiring issues (not a single man vs auto wiring issue is related to the DME itself) but it WOULD create a dozen spinoff other issues. You’d have to convert the whole car to nonTU setup which would be painfully extensive work for basically no reason at all, unless maybe your motor is totally cooked. Swap virtually all the engine wiring over. Change over to a cable throttle..... The keys would have to be swapped leaving you either with keys that didn’t match the doors or doing the door lock swap too. Etc etc etc. End up with a non-TU powerband... and... you’d still have to do the shit i list in the wiring actions! So! A pointless giant hassle. I mean real giant hassle.
But... what you can do...
- Take the tranny and driveshaft and shifter... all that stuff. Diff too if you want a taller ratio and less coding. Some like the short wagon ratio tho, so... not a clear answer there more like an opinion.
- Prob can take the clutch and brake pedals and switches. You’ll need to cut some wires and splice them into your car. Depends on what version of pedals he has and you have if you can use all his pedals or might need a part or two extra. It might work ok but again, you can’t get around doing the wiring (ha! The idea “oh I’ll swap the whole motor and DME over to a completely incompatible system to avoid doing 3-4 wiring jobs!” still has me LMFAO)
I have zero idea about what you mean re: RHD/LHD because you ain’t assplain it one iota. What in Jebuz name are you on about there? Are both cars RHD? Your sig says you’re in DC. Are you really in UK or HKG or sunsht? Or is a DC thing and one of these cars an oddball RHD ex-diplomat (illegal!) car?
I can’t say for sure about the RHD/LHD... but I suspect if it’s a mixed setup you will have some issues. Most parts prob still fit but whether the pedal bracket has a different shape (yes yes I know RHD pedals are in same order but that doesn’t mean the bracket doesn’t have to have a different shape to fit the RH footwell...) I cant say without doIng an assload of realoem work for you.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
thanks for the quick response geargrinder. I read 90% of the entire forum yesterday and knew I was missing some points but apparently more than I thought. I am a coder by trade so I have no problem with coding, regardless of the language it requires. The car which I will be pulling the everything from is a LHD car, but my wagon is RHD. I do have a really weird car here in the USA, it is a RHD 540i touring. It was brought into the country as a diplomatic vehicle in 2005 and has remained in the states since (isn't illegal due to the "substantially similar" import clause, the car is registered as a 2000 540i touring, in so far as the DMVs are concerned), traveling from VA, to CO, to SC, and back to VA (passed emissions in VA in Feb with the help of a government compliance officer to oversee it and hand document it). I have no problem with the mechanical, wiring and coding work required. I was just wondering if there was anything different to be done as it is a RHD car.
Updated OP with the 'last and final ZB numbers' that should be helpful.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
A bit off topic but I knew wagon aficionados would like...
Saw one on the road today was totally unaware they existed
The truly ambitious/foolhardy could swap in the F-type manual box and have something truly unique
00768312b4c7a9571859828b56a4f784.jpg
https://jalopnik.com/the-2018-jaguar...epe-1823955271
So I have a bit of egg on my face since I think I'm the one who initially recommended this and as a result there's a decent number of cars floating around with the auto pedal with the clicker removed. After doing some investigation, I've found that the potentiometer is indeed different. On a true manual pedal, potentiometer will start at 0.7v to 4.15v at full throttle. Automatic pedal will also start at 0.7v, and it will hit 4.15v right before the kickdown. Getting to the end of kickdown brings the voltage to ~4.55-4.6v. So when you remove the clicker, you'll have a pedal that goes from 0.7 - ~4.6 -- effectively just creating a bit of dead space at the end there (since kickdown doesn't do anything on a manual).
So the most correct thing to do would be to just use a manual pedal. An alternative might be to replace the kickdown clicker with something that has the same dimensions and does not depress. A third option would be to rescale the pedal in the tune to have the same effective range with the higher voltage.
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