Been Thinking.... Cooling system upgrade for M10

[mxl556]

To the original poster- I'd just fix the original system (thats what I do every 6-10 year to keep my e21 reliable and does not overheat (we are talking about hot Socal and Vegas weather, I ran it in 110-115F last year)... It should not overheat. Pelican sells all metal OE radiator now, not cheap but looks very well made ( I just bought it last week as my cooling system is about 6 years old and I am planning to replace everything this weekend).

Max

[OLD MAN]

Midlife do you know why it overheated?

Our 80 over heated once and only at highway speed and I have one of the aluminum chevy racing radiators. Turned out that the bypass part of the thermostat was not closing all the way. The parts of the thermostat that opens at temp to rum the water through the radiator was working correctly. So at speed most of the water was just resurrecting in the motor and not being forced through the radiator, but when we slowed down to 30 or so the water going through the radiator was enough to keep it cool.

This double function thermostats can be tricky.

[HipMF]

how is your engine running so hot? mine doesnt past the middle while stuck in traffic in the middle of a humid summer?

This is what I was thinking. Something has to be wrong with the system if you're overheating on New Years Eve in the north-eastern United States. The stock e21 radiator should not puke any coolant out of the hose unless it's overfilled or the coolant is boiling. I'd check the usual suspects first: radiator cap (is the system pressurizing?), air bubbles, pump, etc. Like OLD MAN said, the bypass thermostats can be tricky... mine was installed backwards when I bought the car! It was running really cold, and thankfully never got warm enough for the thermostat to "open" otherwise it would have been bypassing the radiator and would have probably overheated pretty rapidly.

[Allenwilson33]

If I am idling (200-800rpm surges) the car's temp will creep up slowly, but if I hold the rpms at 1500 it goes back down to half quickly. I shouldn't be too worried about this right? I probably should flush my coolant though.

I'm no expert, but I can't think of any correlation between throttle and water flow, but the mechanical fan is of course, running at a speed driven by the crank, so perhaps the fan is vital to blowing cool air? I'm not sure, but would like to hear others' take on this.

[amarino]

I'm no expert, but I can't think of any correlation between throttle and water flow, but the mechanical fan is of course, running at a speed driven by the crank, so perhaps the fan is vital to blowing cool air? I'm not sure, but would like to hear others' take on this.

I'm no expert either but I'm pretty sure the same pulley that spins the fan also spins the water pump impeller inside the engine. So at higher RPM that would mean the water pump is spinning faster?

[mxl556]

Yes, higher engine speed means better coolant flow and faster fan speed. However, higher engine speed means more load (normally) and therefore more heat produced. But idling at 1500 vs 750 without load will result in better cooling.
Also, cooling fan is mostly needed at lower engine speeds to aid slower coolant circulation. E21 fan is not very effective, especially if 80-83 model without shroud does not have aluminum spacer to put fan closer to the radiator, or if early 77-79 model is missing a schroud.

Max

[uberpanzer]

With all the other S14 parts I have used over the years, how have I NOT thought about the cooling system from one? They also use remote expansion tank setups like the m20b25, so it is an option for someone wanting one. FWIW, I have had the m42 setup on a m42 and consider that a failure. The plastic expansion tank that is part of the radiator is prone to failures (read newer BMW issues mentioned above), so I would not use it. Had mine fail on the way back from Vegas in the middle of nowhere, so do not trust them.

[320iAman]

Spectra Premium CU759, I got mine for ~ $110, 2 yr warranty ,All Metal, not plastic, plastic costs more and plastic is not a good conductor of heat, fits just like the stock plastic one, 1/3 the price and keeps the motor cooler in all conditions. I installed an expansion tank with food grade tubing-wont bleed into cooling system and fan shroud.......lol ...The boil out cost with harsh chemicals and repair of this one will much much lower than aluminum radiator......

Parts Specifications
Core Material:	Copper
Tank Material:	Brass
Row:	2
Height:	17-1/16 In.
Width:	13-1/16 In.
Thickness:	1-1/4 In.
Inlet Header:	1-7/8 In. x 18-1/8 In.
Outlet Header:	1-7/8 In. x 18-1/8 In.
Inlet:	1-3/8 In.
Outlet:	1-3/8 In.
EOC:	None
TOC:	11-1/2 In. (Concentric)
Comments:	1 x Installation Sheet

Your All Welcome in Advance

Randy

Moe to Curly

Your not a mule your ears are too short

[virafp]

I need to swap out my fan unit. Is the stock fan a pusher, in that, it pushes air through the radiator into the engine bay? I cant tell on mine, as it is dead.

Thanks

[John Adkins]

I need to swap out my fan unit. Is the stock fan a pusher, in that, it pushes air through the radiator into the engine bay? I cant tell on mine, as it is dead.

Thanks

Do you refer to an auxiliary electric fan mounted in front of the radiator? That's a pusher, of course. The belt drive fan behind the radiator is a puller unit. My '83 does not have an electric fan.

[epmedia]

Do you refer to an auxiliary electric fan mounted in front of the radiator? That's a pusher, of course. The belt drive fan behind the radiator is a puller unit. My '83 does not have an electric fan.

Your '83 is suppose to have an electric Aux fan, especially in TX.

Unless maybe you have 'upgraded' your radiator, or have your heater on 'full-blast' all the time.

[Antares242]

Guys, I know this is an old thread but here I am with my old M10 engine trying to install an electric fan using the stock E30 aux fan plug and also trying to use the port for the original fan switch in order to keep it as stock as possible. Now that I have everything hooked up my fan doesn’t start (not even when I jump the fan switch wires). Looking at the fuse box, I noticed that fuse 18 and fuse 3 are missing one of the spade connectors, does that mean I have to do some wiring underneath the fuse box in order for the stock fan switch connectors to work? Here are some pictures.


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