1994 e34 BMW 530i won't start - central locking / immobilizer issue

[HeatherFeather]

My car won't start right now due to what I think is the immobilizer. I replaced the battery after the old one failed a test. I checked the fuses and fuse #33 was blown, so I replaced it. This fuse is related to anti-theft, sunroof, remote, power windows, and central locking... all of which are still giving me problems. I checked the fusible link by the battery and it looked fine after checking both sides of it. Right now when I put the key in, everything related to fuse #33 does not work, and the car doesn't even try to turn over.

A few nights ago, I hooked up the new battery, and it did not work right away. After inspecting the fuses again for 5 minutes, I tried starting it again and it worked. All of the windows, central locking, sunroof, etc was fine. The next morning I tried to leave for school, and again there was no response. I rechecked fuse #33 with a multimeter and it's good. I thought maybe the battery is being drained, so I tried to jump start it... didn't work.

The car has always had some locking issues. I always had to lock it twice, because it would unlock right after I locked it. Even a few nights ago when the car started, central locking would only work with all doors closed with the key turned in the ignition. I noticed even then that as soon as any door opens, the key-less remote entry unit under the backseat clicks, and when I have my inside light on, it will flash like an alarm. After that, I have to manually lock each door again. So I am not sure what to try next. It seems like the immobilizer is still engaged. I have gone through several posts on several sites and tried various things like re-syncing locks, disconnecting the battery for days, holding down the brake while it's disconnected, disconnecting the alarm unit, checking wire bundle in the trunk, etc. I haven't looked into the door actuator yet because I don't exactly have the funds to pay someone to fix this. Also, I only have a black key with no buttons. Anyone think they might know what's going on? I appreciate any help.

[sentrex]

when you say it won't start,does the starter turn over or its nothing at all??

[HeatherFeather]

when you say it won't start,does the starter turn over or its nothing at all??

The starter does not get engaged at all. When I turn the key, there is no sound. I'm pretty sure the immobilizer is keeping it from starting.

[bmwdirtracer]

Looking at your wiring diagrams, I do not see any way which central locking, or even one of two factory alarm systems can interfere with whether the starter turns or not, in your car.

Therefore, I suspect a primary power issue, the ignition switch, or the starter.

Unbolt, clean and rebolt all primary power and ground connections, including main engine ground and B+ terminal underhood. Then check whether starter activation terminal is getting hot on the small black/yellow wire when key is turned to start position.
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EDIT:
http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

[HeatherFeather]

Looking at your wiring diagrams, I do not see any way which central locking, or even one of two factory alarm systems can interfere with whether the starter turns or not, in your car.

Therefore, I suspect a primary power issue, the ignition switch, or the starter.

Unbolt, clean and rebolt all primary power and ground connections, including main engine ground and B+ terminal underhood. Then check whether starter activation terminal is getting hot on the small black/yellow wire when key is turned to start position.

Thanks.. I will start checking this in the morning. When the car works, it has no problems with lack of power, or getting the starter to turn. When I unlock the door and open it, the alarm unit clicks on and off, and the light inside flashes as if a silent alarm is engaged. If the alarm is engaged then the immobilizer will prevent power even getting to the starter.

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I just went out and started checking some more things. I read the battery again and it is now down to 12.02 V. Two days ago it was 12.2 V. This is a brand new battery. We also tried jump starting the car today, so I'm not sure if that would drop the voltage level.

When I reconnect the battery, the hazards flash, and a little red light lights up on the rear seat air conditioning panel. I looked this up and it points to the alarm control module in the fuse unit under the hood. I pulled it, and reconnected the battery, and the hazards don't flash when it is out. The car still did not start, and the windows, locking, etc does not work.

[HeatherFeather]

Can I just cut some wires going to the alarm unit under the rear seat to disable the immobilizer?

[bmwdirtracer]

Hmm, finally found it. Spent another fifteen minutes looking at your wiring diagrams.....

You surely have a late production car, with the DWA IV system.

There is a Starter Immobilization relay on your car; it gets a signal from the DWA IV, that all is well, and no one's trying to steal the car. That signal leaves the DWA IV on a black and violet wire from pin 1 of the X331 connector, then spits into several colors at the X13 connector, thence going to the Starter Immobilization relay, the General Module, and the engine computer. Without this signal, the starter immobilation relay won't click, the DME likely won't deliver spark and fuel....and God only knows what revenge the GM might take. The DWA IV is certainly not going to deliver this signal if you disconnect the DWA IV.

I cannot find a complete diagram of the internal workings of the starter immobilation relay, and the compter pin-out of the DWA system just lists the signal as an "output"; no word on whether it's 12 volt, 5 volt, or a ground, or ?


Therefore, I'd have to advise you take the car to a BMW pro with a GT1 computer, who can find the fault codes in the DWA system, and correct them. That's likely going to be easier and safer than trying to bypass the system.

[locknload]

In the meantime, you might want to get the alternator/voltage regulator tested. It is possible the locking/immobilization issues you have are causing the battery to drain; however, it is also possible you aren't getting a proper charge and the low battery state is causing the no start condition. Alternator should be putting out 14.25 +/- volts, you can check it yourself on test #9 of the OBC, or take it to any reputable auto parts store and have them test it.

[HeatherFeather]

I just got it to start, but there is still a problem. I made an appointment with BMW, and while I was waiting I decided to mess with the wiring that goes into the Keyless Remote box under the rear seat. I pushed on the bundle of wires, and started to hear clicking. When I pulled on it, the clicking stopped. So I pushed on it again, heard the clicking, and started up the car. So this tells me there is a wire loose somewhere. I turned the car off and now I cannot put the wire into any position that will make the clicking stop. So, I don't know how to track down the funky wire. I had to disconnect the battery again so the clicking unit does not drain it. When the key is in the ignition on position #2, the unit stops clicking, which tells me the alarm is disengaged. When I take the key out, the alarm unit re-engages, and the clicking starts.

I tested the battery before I started it and it was around 11.5 V since it has been sitting for a few days. I also tested the voltage while the car was running and got 13.8 V. I'm guessing this is good enough. I'm pretty sure the unit was being drained by the alarm.

So, do you think I still need to have a BMW pro reset the alarm, or is there something else I can try? If I had a keyless remote, would I be able to just disengage the alarm with that?

[locknload]

If you don't feel comfortable chasing down the wiring/clicking anomaly and fixing it yourself, I'd take it to someone who knows the cars and point them to what you discovered. It may save you $$ to have them go there first and investigate what you found, rather than spend a lot of time diagnosing/troubleshooting the other usual suspects.

[bmwdirtracer]

The alarm system seems to be unhappy, the locks are acting weird, you've got a car that starts only when a relay is clicking; and now, you can't get the relay to stop clicking. With a physical examination, and identifying what's clicking, comparing that to wiring diagrams (ETM's), and hooking the car to the DIS/GT1 computer, I could likely find the trouble.

When I found the trouble, I could likely figure out how to fix it - or go around it......I'm fairly adept with regards to automobile wiring.

But I'm not good enough to tell you how to fix it without being able to see and test the car. Sorry.

[triggrhaapi]

I've got a friend who has an E34 325i wagon that is having a similar issue. No start, hazards flash when the battery is reconnected but no red light on the AC panel. We're trying to diagnose the issue and we bypassed EWS (but put quick disconnects on the wire so it can be reconnected if necessary) and that hadn't done anything and I was going to replace the immobilizer relay as a next step but then found this thread.

Is the red light specifically the indicator that it's an alarm system issue? Do the flashing hazards mean anything in particular or is the flashing hazards the indicator that it's an alarm issue? If we can get this problem fixed with a simple reset of the system that would be great.

[zachworld]

Wow exactly the same for me on my 1994 525i and I thought my car was haunted!

The internet is my friend at the moment, the EWS is not. Tomorrow or next week I am continuing the search with my mechanic so I'll make sure to keep you guys posted.

FYI. This problem happened right after I took my car wash, it was a hand wash but they were using an air pressure gun to dry the car and i'm pretty sure they pushed water where it wasn't suppose to go. Water definitely triggers lots of problems.

[Trurock]

Currently having the same issue. Anyone figure it out?

[e30lov]

I'm having the same problems with the central locking, the flashing lights, starting issues etc as the OP. This all started happening for me when the temperature dips below 20 degrees. 1995 540i

[rtheriaque]

I have a vehicle with this exact issue. Did anybody ever resolve it?

[hungry4cheese]

I have a vehicle with this exact issue. Did anybody ever resolve it?

Hi everyone - yes I know the posts in this thread are years old now, but my touring is having the same issue as all of you. It's definitely the immobilizer giving me troubles - I temporarily fixed it all by spraying deoxit on the connector next to the battery that has wires going to the key remote box. After driving it today, however, everything quit working again. No windows, no power door locks, no trunk buttons, no start. I tried cleaning my plug again, but no difference. Must be something else this time. Did anyone ever find another fun trigger point that can mess up the immobilizer? I also have the double door lock issue - opens back up the first try, locks the second try. It seems the passenger door lock mechanism has trouble locking sometimes too. Could that cause the immobilizer to go crazy? Also I have the red led in the back, but I've never seen it on. Not sure why. Any help is appreciated!

[N55Guyhi]

Hi everyone - yes I know the posts in this thread are years old now, but my touring is having the same issue as all of you. It's definitely the immobilizer giving me troubles - I temporarily fixed it all by spraying deoxit on the connector next to the battery that has wires going to the key remote box. After driving it today, however, everything quit working again. No windows, no power door locks, no trunk buttons, no start. I tried cleaning my plug again, but no difference. Must be something else this time. Did anyone ever find another fun trigger point that can mess up the immobilizer? I also have the double door lock issue - opens back up the first try, locks the second try. It seems the passenger door lock mechanism has trouble locking sometimes too. Could that cause the immobilizer to go crazy? Also I have the red led in the back, but I've never seen it on. Not sure why. Any help is appreciated!

same thing here hungry4cheese.. my car took forever to crank at first, then one day bATTERY WENT DEAD.. GOT a new one and still wouldnt start.. so far new ecm, relays and fuses still no start its been 3 weeks now . getting really frustrated

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mention my windows and lights wernt working one day.. the next day i disconnect the batt and now everything works.. wierd. anybody can help with this? please

[Hal Fairbank]

My car won't start right now due to what I think is the immobilizer. I replaced the battery after the old one failed a test. I checked the fuses and fuse #33 was blown, so I replaced it. This fuse is related to anti-theft, sunroof, remote, power windows, and central locking... all of which are still giving me problems. I checked the fusible link by the battery and it looked fine after checking both sides of it. Right now when I put the key in, everything related to fuse #33 does not work, and the car doesn't even try to turn over.

A few nights ago, I hooked up the new battery, and it did not work right away. After inspecting the fuses again for 5 minutes, I tried starting it again and it worked. All of the windows, central locking, sunroof, etc was fine. The next morning I tried to leave for school, and again there was no response. I rechecked fuse #33 with a multimeter and it's good. I thought maybe the battery is being drained, so I tried to jump start it... didn't work.

The car has always had some locking issues. I always had to lock it twice, because it would unlock right after I locked it. Even a few nights ago when the car started, central locking would only work with all doors closed with the key turned in the ignition. I noticed even then that as soon as any door opens, the key-less remote entry unit under the backseat clicks, and when I have my inside light on, it will flash like an alarm. After that, I have to manually lock each door again. So I am not sure what to try next. It seems like the immobilizer is still engaged. I have gone through several posts on several sites and tried various things like re-syncing locks, disconnecting the battery for days, holding down the brake while it's disconnected, disconnecting the alarm unit, checking wire bundle in the trunk, etc. I haven't looked into the door actuator yet because I don't exactly have the funds to pay someone to fix this. Also, I only have a black key with no buttons. Anyone think they might know what's going on? I appreciate any help.

WOW first person with exactly the same problem I have. Dome Lights flash like an alarm is activated, no crank, no windows, no mirrors, no sunroof. and a central locking issue. Sometimes when I lock and unlock the drivers door several times it begins to work again. However when it is warm I do not have an issue when it is cold this happens has been a problem for several years and I cant figure it out yet. Now it is cold and it won't start at all. any help? Did you figure out the problem?

[bmwdirtracer]

HeatherFeather had nine posts, and the last one was 5 years ago.

[Hal Fairbank]

Yes i see it was 5 years ago....however they (Heather feather) had the EXACT SAME problem I am having and I needed to know what the fix was. As with any electrical problem....it can be nearly impossible at times while other times it is easy to trace. I have dome lights flashing no crank, no windows, no mirrors and central locking is not working either. The dome flashes as if an alarm has been triggered. but no horn sound or other flashing lights. When it gets warm outside the problem disappears but it returns when it is cold outside. It has gotten worse over time. Also there is a clicking in the module for keyless remote security under back seat when you turn the key in the ignition.

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Yes I am having the EXACT SAME problem. If you can take a moment I needed to know what the fix was. As with any electrical problem....it can be nearly impossible at times while other times it is easy to trace. I have dome lights flashing no crank, no windows, no mirrors and central locking is not working either. The dome flashes as if an alarm has been triggered. but no horn sound or other flashing lights. When it gets warm outside the problem disappears but it returns when it is cold outside. It has gotten worse over time. Also there is a clicking in the module for keyless remote security under back seat when you turn the key in the ignition.

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Yes I am having the EXACT SAME problem. If you can take a moment I needed to know what the fix was. As with any electrical problem....it can be nearly impossible at times while other times it is easy to trace. I have dome lights flashing no crank, no windows, no mirrors and central locking is not working either. The dome flashes as if an alarm has been triggered. but no horn sound or other flashing lights. When it gets warm outside the problem disappears but it returns when it is cold outside. It has gotten worse over time. Also there is a clicking in the module for keyless remote security under back seat when you turn the key in the ignition.

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Yes I am having the EXACT SAME problem. If you can take a moment I needed to know what the fix was. As with any electrical problem....it can be nearly impossible at times while other times it is easy to trace. I have dome lights flashing no crank, no windows, no mirrors and central locking is not working either. The dome flashes as if an alarm has been triggered. but no horn sound or other flashing lights. When it gets warm outside the problem disappears but it returns when it is cold outside. It has gotten worse over time. Also there is a clicking in the module for keyless remote security under back seat when you turn the key in the ignition.

[Popamg42]

I had same problem with my e34 525i 1994 central not working,windows not lifting and no crank no start. and after reading whole e34 94 electrical manual and fixed it but still dont have locking done but car starts and windows work. First i found starter immobilization relay named k1w in manual

THIS IS PARTNUMBER: 61358362102 type in google to see the pic

RELAY LOCATION: https://www.carmanualsonline.info/bm...-manual/53#530
You have to pull out side panel with speaker,little glove compartment,wood trim,left of the wheel,under wheel two plastic protections and on left side where speaker was you will see 2 bolts , unbolt and pop the carrier with three relays it is really hidden you can stick hand in hole up watch the pic i posted. Three relay should appear two pink smaller which is abs and one black wich is relay you need.

RELAY WITH ALL CONNECTIONS: https://www.carmanualsonline.info/bm...-manual/24#235

IF YOU DONT WANT TO CHECK THE WIRES WHEN YOU FOUND RELAY JUST PULL THE RELAY OUT AND STICK BIGGER PINS IN DONT LET SMALLER ONES GET FULLY IN TRY COUPLE OF TIMES IF NOTHING HAPPENS. YOU WILL HEAR CLICK OF RELAY AND HOLD IT IN THAT POPSITION AND CRANK BUT CAR SHOULD START ALWAYS WHEN YOU DO THAT. EXPERIMENT BEFORE YOU GIVE UP IT SHOULD WORK. PUT KEY IN POSITION 2 TO HEAR CLICK OF RELAY

boring part: Power from the ignition switch position 3(crank) should come to the relay on pin number 6 black and yellow wire and exit on same color wire but pin number 2 and from there it goes to starter. So first check that ignition switch is getting power (big red wire) and then see if relay has output on pin 2. let someone help you crank the key and hold and you while you check the pin. And if it stops there just pull the relay out and stick it with tips of bigger pins dont let small ones to go in full and car should start but you will prob not be able to roll windows

So basicly smaller pin number 9 is connected with anti theft control module and general module under the rear seat driver side and crap is happening there and with this trick that pin never touches the relay so it can freely switch and send signal to starter which starts the car.

[Bobbydazzler74]

Nothing like restarting an old thread...

I have a UK registered September 1994 BMW E34 520i SE Touring with an auto box. I believe it has an EWS2.

The car won't crank, as though it's clinically dead!

When I turn the ignition key, only 2 dash lights come on (battery and airbag) nothing else.

Windows, sunroof, radio don't work either.

The heater fan, rear screen demister and all lights work.

Now the car was starting last summer but being off the road the battery went flat. Having recharged the battery, the car doesn't start.

Unfortunately I don't have the funds to pay for a mechanic or auto electrician so was hoping someone may recognise the symptoms and give appropriate advice for me to investigate and hopefully resolve the problems.

Many thanks in advance.

[shogun]

Make a load test for the battery, recharging is probably not enough, probably it is too weak. Just testing with a multimeter the volts is not enough, load test is best.
In case windows, sunroof , locks etc are not working, check the 2 fusible links , https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=fusible+links