it's really more like 5x120 vs 5x4.75 (4.75 inch = almost 120.7mm)
the difference is really negligible. there's a small army of keyboard physicists/engineers that say otherwise, but that hasn't stopped people from successfully using corvette wheels on e36s for years now. i've personally been rocking 5x4.75 wheels for about 3 years now, the tapers on the wheels still look fine
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Rikens were 120.7, My bolt on adapters I run in the front are 120.7 no issues ever
oh yeah I would totally rock them too if they were tapered, I'm just concerned about putting a tapered bolt to hold a square hole ... that just sounds sketchy, the surface of contact will be so minimal ...
what are these square wheel stud holes you're talking about? i'm confused. got pictures?
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
I don't have pictures of my own wheel, but on google I found this : https://www.google.ca/search?q=1980+...pr=0.9#imgrc=_
which the nuts should be something like this :
and the wheel is this model :
I don't know what to do or where to get the material to mount them ... I don't really know even where to look for something like it ...
aaah, those are "shank" style lugnuts. 9/10 of every toyota made in the past 30 years (made up statistic but probably true) uses that style lug nut
i think toyota lug nuts have the same thread pitch as BMWs, so you'd need to convert to the right length stud and get a set of toyota lug nuts to rock those wheels
also, that wheel is dope as shit, what kind is it?
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Make your own thread stop cluttering my build thread.....
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
This entire page is about some trans am wheels and lug nuts that I do not own, so...
threads derail sometimes. but more importantly, useful information was posted. which is the whole point of a forum. don't like it? oh well, you're not the center of our universes, deal with it. if you're looking to gain fanboys that will feverishly jerk off to your every status update, this probably isn't the place to do that. i hear some people have had pretty good luck with twitter recently though
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Lol I don't give a shit. I'm just saying rather then talk about random shit in a build thread that it makes no sense in, go post in the wheels and tires section.
Update:
oil cooler is mounted, everything clears and bolts up nicely. Going to mount a computer fan to the back of the cooler and mount a small duct to the bumper to direct airflow up a bit more.
Made rear tophats as the oe ones were . Hks tophats trimmed to fit.
Got new steer wheels for next year, Advan kreuzer V, 17x8+13 after adapter wrapped in 215/40/17 triangle 968
Made a new solid mounted shifter to try out next year, throw is adjustable right now, but if that feels flexy then I will re make the bottom mount out of a solid piece of steel at whatever length I need.
also got a new passenger seat, dimensionally it's the same as the sprint, and now I can mount a good harness through it without hassle.
Last edited by MauiM3Mania; 02-10-2016 at 03:04 AM. Reason: profanity
Hi bru, love this build, could you possible take a pic of the height of the gear lever with the gearknob
thanks
Haven't updated in a while.. Had to move so threw the car back together and didn't get around to installing the shifter yet. Figure I'll drive it as is for the event at the end of this month then change it out. I forgot how awful the stock one is compared to my subaru... Did manage to get the oil cooler all done though, looks neat, temps are down while driving and doesn't appear to leak anymore (had a weld with a pinhole, all fixed now). Still need to install a little shroud for it off the bumper and a fan on the backside for cooling if/when needed. But it's ready enough for the first day of the season!
Can sorta spot the cooler through the driver side brake duct
Last edited by Mikestokman; 04-20-2016 at 12:11 AM.
So the first event went super good, sweet tandems, getting all over people's doors all day. temps stayed super low with the new cooler and nothing leaked so I'd say big success.
I've been a big advocate for keeping cars simple, keeping the hobby cheap, and driving with close to stock power until your driving skill outweighs the power of the car, and based on the last event I feel like I'm getting to that point now, so I picked up this:
2003 Chevy lm7 out of a 1/2 ton Yukon. Gonna slowly refresh it, make all the accessory brackets myself, make my own motor/trans mounts, and basically buy the least amount of stuff nessacary to make it run. Not 100% sure of what trans I want to run, but I saw that abc clutch makes a ls-BMW trans adapter, and I have 2 zf trans and access to high tech CNC equipment, so I feel like that might be the route I go. If it doesn't work then I'll barely be out any money, and in the mean time it saves me from having to buy a completely new trans setup and clutch/flywheel shit and parts like that. Should be fun and I love the fact that gm shit is almost always in stock at parts stores so I don't have to worry about bringing every spare when I travel to events.
Solid drifting philosophy! Too many people get lost in the build aiming for ridiculous horsepower numbers and building their cars to formula drift spec, but don't get any seat time while their car sits in the garage. While that's all well and good if you're already a pro, it just makes the car more difficult to learn on, and teaches some bad habits. For instance, I know a guy who's first mod was a hydro, and he literally cannot initiate without it... anyhow... good luck with the zf adapter, I'm anxious to see how this turns out!
P.S. Inb4 Jalopi asks whether you plan on running accusump on your LSx swapped bmw lol
Last edited by beat328i; 05-23-2016 at 09:03 AM.
You oil starve a V8 once and you become an oiling fiend. I can see why though lol.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
so how bout dem accusumps
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Funny you should say that, I have a friend who has been building an 800hp 2jz s13 with a dogbox, his own version of wisefab knuckles/control arms, rear rad, tube frame, pretty much anything you'd find on a pro car, and he has driven a total of 1.5 laps in 3 years. Meanwhile I've driven all but 2 events in my car, gotten to be a way better driver then I honestly thought would be possible, and have had a ton of fun along the way.
As for accusump, I've been reading just about everyone's build threads, and have a couple friends who have lsx drift cars and most people either have a baffle installed in their pan, or run an accusump. If I can find a used accusump I'll definitely run one, if not I'll look into a cheaper baffle option for the time being. I'd hate to wipe out a motor due to oiling, but if I do the motor only cost $300 so it's not the end of the world.
It sounds like your friend is "lost in the build". This article is pretty accurate, so I try to distribute it as much as possible lol:
http://scrapedcrusaders.com/2015/01/...-in-the-build/
I went with the trap door baffle from Holley. I only have one event on the car, and some hard canyon driving and my oil pressure has never dropped. If you were building a pro-am + level car I'd say do an accusump, but the trap door has been working great for me so far.
that right there is good advice
for example, i saw a video from hyperfest rapper dan posted on his wall the other day. for those who don't know the name, he used to drive for sikky until they pulled out of FD. anyway, he's got a stock KA'd s13 with some insane rear gear (4.9 i think he said?) and he was running with a 300hp 1jz s14 and a monstrous 800-900hp ls something s14. the other cars did make more smoke and were faster on straighter sections, but it didn't look like they were dusting him too bad
i guess what i'm getting at is the 260hp those 5.3's put down might not impress people as much as a 800hp 2j, but the more i see the more i'm convinced that as long as you have good torque there's no need for insane power figures
even so, apparently even a mild cam really wakes those 5.3s up and puts em into the mid 300s
Last edited by jalopi; 05-23-2016 at 06:12 PM.
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
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