900+ HP 5.0 M62 Build thread

[auaq]

Well God willing we'll all get through this (sanity intact)

Nope. Never. Doubt we'll all get through it as this is a relentless quest to seek more and more that appears to be adequate already but still never satisfied.

[Ballard540]

Spoke to Calico today. Heads are done. Pistons will be tomorrow. Ready to ship Friday. Pictures to follow asap!

Also, looking into new bushing material for the rods as the previous material did not hold up so well.

I was quoted $50 PER Bushing. 50x8=400= to high. Now we are looking into other options.

Beryllium copper is the material we are looking at using. So that's in the works.

Going to order HD wrist pins tomorrow and have them shipped to calico for DLC coating. Then back to use to hone the rod bushings. And balance the assembly.

Waiting on my billet main caps. Talked to Jim today and we are looking at 8 weeks for production. Now.. we hurry up and wait.

[Schitzo]

Have you figured out placement for the dry sump tank? I'm ripping my 528i apart and while underneath the car I got to looking for places where a dry sump tank could fit. Looks like you could get one of the Peterson tall skinny tanks to fit on the driver side area just behind the headlight. The plastic cover would have to come off. Would save a lot plumbing to the trunk.

[Ballard540]

Actually your exactly right. That's where I plan on placing it. One reason being the scavenge outlet points to the driver side so that will aid in line routing. Also I'll utilize the factory filter canister, my previous setrab oil cooler and lines, and the accusump line is on the driver side also. It solves all the routing issues.

And since we plan to sell this as a kit it eases consumer installation quite a bit versus trunk mount so fourth and so on.

I have looked at plenty of ideas. I plan to build a custom tank that will be very similar to the Z06 tank here:


Not quite so tall. But using the same top plastic piece. The top will be round and the bottom a shaped design so we still keep a capacity of around 2.5 gallons TF. The majority of the tank will rest behind the front number that way it doesn't take up my fastly decreasing engine bay space. And cleans everything up. Then the plastic piece atop will stick above the plastic void filler below the oil canister. That leaves room to work on the headlight, check the oil level of canister and fill with oil. I BELIEVE I can build it so you can even change the blinker bulb with no problem

[Ballard540]

Some coated parts came back in today. The pistons are finished. Heads have been coated on all valve faces, combustion chambers. And full exhaust port. All coatings done by Calico Coatings. Who I FULLY recommend.
.

[RVAE34]

This is awesome!

[philly98540]

Looks awesome. I'm a noob to this coating stuff. What are the main advantage of adding these coatings? No carbon buildup? Less hot spots allowing more boost without knocking? More curious than anything...

Does it wear away at the valve seats? Do you have to lap the valves in after the coating process to get a perfect seat?

Never peels off?

Looks labor intensive to apply correctly. I hate to wonder what that runs. Best of luck with the build.

[Ballard540]

The advantage to this process is heat resistance. The coating keeps the heat from being absorbed into the heads and pistons. This coating has been used on piston tops for quite sometime. But no one ever sees the benefit from coating the combustion chambers too.

Since I coated everything from combustion and the entire exhaust port there will be a significantly less amount of heat soaked into the heads and it will pass right out the exhaust.

Since these engines aren't known for their outstanding coolant system.... this wasn't a bad approach. There are two way to remove the heat. Through your coolant system as normal. Or pass it out the exhaust. Either way it has to leave and cannot stay inside.

I converted the car to an M60 style water pump and now I have a head temperature of about 206 versus having high 230s before. So this will be a further benefit to that.

Yes you have to touch up the valves. Because there is no accurate way to completely mask the valves. They coat the entire section. Then I have it all touched up so the valves seal correctly.

The coating never peels. NASCAR using this exact coating in all their engines for instance. Since there is no friction contact points. No places to wear off.

To coat everything you see here was $700. I'm ordering new heavier wrist pins and having them coating also. That's about $350. Then having the exhaust heat coated after we are done.

Should be a fun trip

[philly98540]

Thanks for the explaination on coatings. Low heat transfer is a good thing. I can't wait to see the rest of the build. The car is going to be a monster!

[Ballard540]

Thanks for the explaination on coatings. Low heat transfer is a good thing. I can't wait to see the rest of the build. The car is going to be a monster!

Anytime. There is a lot of science behind the process that I haven't been educated in. And wouldn't give it justice of I even tried to repeat. So I'll leave it at what I know

[Aryana]

Epic. That coating looks really great.

[Justin517]

This is friggin awesome. I'd love to do some of what you are but for an N/A application, think alpina 4.8 on steroids (5.0L bigger cams) making about M5 power levels but with more torque.

How do you plan on using all this power? I don't think I would ever need/want a street car with any more than 600hp unless it was AWD.

[BigM62]

This is friggin awesome. I'd love to do some of what you are but for an N/A application, think alpina 4.8 on steroids (5.0L bigger cams) making about M5 power levels but with more torque.

How do you plan on using all this power? I don't think I would ever need/want a street car with any more than 600hp unless it was AWD.

If you could make your package 13", would you?

[Ballard540]

This is friggin awesome. I'd love to do some of what you are but for an N/A application, think alpina 4.8 on steroids (5.0L bigger cams) making about M5 power levels but with more torque.

How do you plan on using all this power? I don't think I would ever need/want a street car with any more than 600hp unless it was AWD.

We are going to do a 700 hp tune for street use. Then a 900 hp tune to show the cars capabilities and use for the occasional
dyno day.

If you could make your package 13", would you?

HA

[mathaiser]

I'm kind of a newbie here, but do you need to do anything to the driveshaft, the guibo bushing, or anything with the rear differential? Maybe that's in you 1000post thread but I'm on my mobile at the moment.


I would ask on the engine but it seems like you got that on lock down

[RVAE34]

Most people reinforce the rear diff mount. The stock mount is only 3 sided so the ideal setup is to weld a plate on the 4th side to box it in and then reinforce the existing welds.

[Mannyf540]

I've seen tubular steel used to make a frame to transfer the weight to the frame

[Mannyf540]

Here's one arrival describing several methods, I've seen rafters applied to the lower chasis.

Even on the older fox body mustangs I've seen tubular k members , would be nice if some where made for the e39 chasis, but then again it's a very structurally rigid frame. Perhaps a little reinforcement in the right spots.

[RVAE34]

I would certainly be interested in something like that.

[Mannyf540]

http://www.jdm-option.com/eng/feature/05_10/bodyup.html

[Aryana]

Anyone know what the Dinan reinforcement looks like? http://www.dinancars.com/products/5-...ement-Kit.aspx

[Ballard540]

I'm kind of a newbie here, but do you need to do anything to the driveshaft, the guibo bushing, or anything with the rear differential? Maybe that's in you 1000post thread but I'm on my mobile at the moment.


I would ask on the engine but it seems like you got that on lock down

The engine is taken care of the half shafts (axles) will be made by the drive shaft shop. They make some axles that are 1000hp rated. I've placed a couple calls. They said they can make them to handle about anything...

Rear diff is going to have a OS Giken unit installed.

Most people reinforce the rear diff mount. The stock mount is only 3 sided so the ideal setup is to weld a plate on the 4th side to box it in and then reinforce the existing welds.

I am having a full aluminum plate made to encase the diff to secure it better then stock. Much like you said here.

[Mannyf540]

I would certainly be interested in something like that.

It would be sweet for your 427 monster, a tig welder and some steel welded in the right spots will work nice. g

[Ballard540]

We also have a 99 540 here is a blown and nitrous 6.2 LS with alot of custom fab work. Lots of reinforcement

[RVAE34]

The Dinan reinforcement is junk. I have read mutliple threads that say it doesn't fit well. All it consists of is a pre-cut piece of metal that you weld in. My machinist made a much better piece for mine.