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Thread: 5HP30 Valve Body Rebuild Kit

  1. #1
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    5HP30 Valve Body Rebuild Kit

    Hey guys I'm gonna attempt to rebuild the Valve Body in my 740; the reverse is starting to delay engagement, or not engage at all and the transmission whines when it's cold. I've been reading through some write-ups on how to do this and doesn't seem too difficult.

    My question is where is the best place to order the genuine ZF valve body kit for the 5hp30? I wanna make sure I get the kit that has everything with the proper checkball/spring updates. Also are there any other components that don't come with the kit that I should be replacing while in there, like solenoids or valves or seals or anything. Obviously I'll be doing a filter and fluid change as well. SO where do you guys get the ZF kits from??

    Edit: I've read that Kirt Koeller is the guy to contact about this; does he have a website or is there a way to contact him? Is he on this forum?
    Last edited by m60power; 11-27-2013 at 07:30 PM.

  2. #2
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    Solenoids are pretty expensive and are not included in the stanard 5HP30 VBK.
    Kirt Koeller seems to have moved since some years within the organisation, you have to try other channels.
    This is what you get with the VBK http://www.thectsc.com/products/valv...p30-80-39.html


    The solenoids you have to remove and clean each one and test it. Most probably the plastic around the plugs will break a bit, but the plugs are still working, no worries, it is just the outer insulation plastic. List of the parts you get
    27.020 1056 327 019 Orifice 1.0mm 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    27.030 1056 327 039 Orifice 1.7mm 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    27.034 1056 327 021 Orifice 1.5mm 1 017/026/027/028/029/ 030/031/032/039/040 316 Valve body & over
    27.040 1056 327 020 Orifice 1.2mm 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    27.050 1056 327 019 Orifice 1.0mm 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    27.060 1056 327 020 Orifice 1.2mm 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    27.070 1056 327 020 Orifice 1.2mm 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    27.086 1043 326 037 Check Ball 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    27.090 0501 313 177 Filter Screen 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    27.096 0732 041 937 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers Valve in channel plate
    27.100 1055 327 093 Gasket 1 010/011 312 Valve body and under
    27.100 1055 327 102 Gasket 1 017/026/027/028/029/ 030/031/032/039/040 316 Valve body and over
    27.260/116 0501 209 253 O.-Ring 2 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.020 1056 327 173 Selector Shift Valve 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.040 0732 042 430 Compression Spring 1 010/011/029/030/031
    50.060 0732 042 477 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.070 1058 327 030 Main Pressure Valve 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.080 0732 042 381 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.110 0732 041 550 Compression Spring 1 010 309 Valve body and under
    50.110 0732 042 492 Compression Spring 1 011/017/026/027/028/029/ 030/031/032/039/040 312 Valve body and over
    50.128 0732 041 523 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.142 0732 041 526 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.148 0732 041 809 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.158 0732 042 561 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.170 0732 042 561 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.190 0732 042 561 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    50.204 0732 042 561 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.030 0732 041 547 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.060 0732 041 462 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.080 0732 041 462 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.100 0732 041 826 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.120 0732 041 337 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.140 0732 041 462 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.190 0732 041 606 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.210 0732 041 547 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.260/010 0734 313 120 O.-Ring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    51.270/010 0734 313 134 O.-Ring 4 All 5HP30 part numbers
    55.030 0732 041 462 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    55.050 0732 041 826 Compression Spring 1 010/011/029/030/031
    55.070 0732 041 337 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    55.090 0732 042 382 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    55.110 0732 042 504 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    55.130 0732 042 022 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    55.150 0732 041 667 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    55.170 0732 041 325 Compression Spring 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    55.180 1043 326 037 Check Ball 1 All 5HP30 part numbers
    Last edited by shogun; 07-21-2016 at 06:59 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Nice info Shogun, that company is one of the cheaper I've seen for the kit! Any other sources, or is that the best?

  4. #4
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    Give ZF distributor Ericksson Industries in CT a call: http://www.erikssonindustries.com/

    Very helpful folks with any needed advice. Purchased a VB rebuild kit for a 5HP24 from them a few weeks ago. Faitly good prices on VB kit, main pressure valve casting (believe common with 5HP30), and filtran filter.

    Could not find the kit parts list for the 5HP24 online like SHOGUN shows above for the 5HP30. Scanned and posted it at this link in case anyone is interested.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...e-body-rebuild


    Mike

  5. #5
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    Cool thanks for the resource! I ended up getting a valve body kit from CTSC. I just rebuilt the valve body today, it's actually very easy but takes awhile. I'll be installing it sometime this week and I'll update with results.

  6. #6
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    I put the valve body in today along with a new filter (filtran) and transmission pan gasket. I also replaced the selector shaft seals (there's two, one on each side of the transmission) and they were a pain in the ass to get out. I forgot how messy adding fluid and checking the level is, it's such a pain, glad it's over. I use a K-type thermocouple thermometer to measure the fluid temp while filling, it needs to get to ~40 degrees celsius and trickle out of the fill hole to be at the correct level. My reverse gear now engages perfectly, the dragging in first is gone and the transmission shifts better all around. Also the whine is gone. I'm very happy with the results. I used Redline D4 ATF instead of that godawful expensive LA2634 fluid, we'll see how the trans does with it over the next few thousand miles. I might do another flush and filter in a few hundred miles or so.

    Also the valve body kit does not come with the four o-rings for the two valve body risers, so make sure you order those, I got mine from the dealer (part number 24341421145).

    Here's the list of parts I got to do the valve body and fluid:

    ZF Valve body rebuild Kit (CTSC)
    Oil filter Kit (comes with both screws and the o-ring) – 24341422419
    Trans pan gasket – 24111421140
    Gasket ring for fill plug – 24111219126
    Gasket ring for drain plug – 24111421899
    Wiring harness o-rings – 24341421736 (2X)
    Selector shaft seal – 24147571213 (2X)
    Valve Body risers o-rings – 24341421145 (4X)
    Fluid Redline D4 – (14 Quarts)

    Edit: the valve body kit comes with a little green o-ring and 4 little black o-rings, these are for the 5 solenoids that have o-rings in case anyone is wondering..
    Last edited by m60power; 12-12-2013 at 11:09 PM.

  7. #7
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    Well done sir, congrats!

    How long did it take you to do the rebuild?
    '93 740i - Mine
    '08 Land Rover LR2 - Hers
    '96 328i - Son's
    '97 328ic - Daughter's
    '87 944 Turbo - Mistress
    '74 Alfa Romeo Spider - Italian Mistress
    Northern Colorado, USA


  8. #8
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    It took me about 5 hours to do the actual rebuild, taking my time. The whole process start to finish is probably about an 8-9 hour job doing it the first time.

  9. #9
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    Do you have to take the transmission out of the car to do this work?
    Does this require a lift or can you put the car on ramps and use a creeper?

  10. #10
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    No need to take the trans out. It is basically similar as if you remove the trans pan to change the trans filter. After you removed the trans pan and the filter, tyhe valve body is right in front of you. Study the many online instructions for this. Ramps and crepper is enough.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by m60power View Post
    I put the valve body in today along with a new filter (filtran) and transmission pan gasket. I also replaced the selector shaft seals (there's two, one on each side of the transmission) and they were a pain in the ass to get out. I forgot how messy adding fluid and checking the level is, it's such a pain, glad it's over. I use a K-type thermocouple thermometer to measure the fluid temp while filling, it needs to get to ~40 degrees celsius and trickle out of the fill hole to be at the correct level. My reverse gear now engages perfectly, the dragging in first is gone and the transmission shifts better all around. Also the whine is gone. I'm very happy with the results. I used Redline D4 ATF instead of that godawful expensive LA2634 fluid, we'll see how the trans does with it over the next few thousand miles. I might do another flush and filter in a few hundred miles or so.

    Also the valve body kit does not come with the four o-rings for the two valve body risers, so make sure you order those, I got mine from the dealer (part number 24341421145).

    Here's the list of parts I got to do the valve body and fluid:

    ZF Valve body rebuild Kit (CTSC)
    Oil filter Kit (comes with both screws and the o-ring) 24341422419
    Trans pan gasket 24111421140
    Gasket ring for fill plug 24111219126
    Gasket ring for drain plug 24111421899
    Wiring harness o-rings 24341421736 (2X)
    Selector shaft seal 24147571213 (2X)
    Valve Body risers o-rings 24341421145 (4X)
    Fluid Redline D4 (14 Quarts)

    Edit: the valve body kit comes with a little green o-ring and 4 little black o-rings, these are for the 5 solenoids that have o-rings in case anyone is wondering..
    Did you tranny shift properly all the time it was just the issue with the delay on Reverse? My tranny is been doing this with the addition of the delay with engage to Drive sometimes won't engage at all.. just sometimes if I turn the cat off and then i tray Drive again it will engage with some pull same with Reverse.
    Happy for you that this rebuild fix your problems!✌️👊
    Last edited by carlito79; 05-10-2015 at 07:51 PM.

  12. #12
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    How did u get the gasket or o ring out when u did the shift select seal. I need to do mine they are leaking. Thanks in advance.

  13. #13
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    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/dutch740/s...ectorshaft.htm
    Small screwdriver or better a special seal puller which you can get at any car accessory/tool shop of HF
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  14. #14
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    We're is the shop HF. Do you have the website.

  15. #15
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    Last edited by shogun; 05-14-2015 at 08:49 AM.
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  16. #16
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    I use their pick set which is great for prying out small stuff.
    --Ken

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sansouci View Post
    I use their pick set which is great for prying out small stuff.
    --Ken
    I didn't use a seal puller to get them out, but I did use Harbor Freight's cheapo pick set.

  18. #18
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    Same problem with my 1993 740i!! Where are you located

    - - - Updated - - -

    Would you still happen to have the phone number to this place!?

  19. #19
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    which phone number? ctsc zf transmission http://www.thectsc.com/
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  20. #20
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    Yea shogun.. if it's a fairly reasonable job I would like to tackle this project.. needs a new filter and fluid anyway!! How do you feel about system flushes!!?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also shogun.. see a few zf5hp30 valve body rebuild kit on ebay.. has anyone bought these kits off ebay!?
    Last edited by Kyle.Tewkesbury; 10-04-2016 at 08:31 AM.

  21. #21
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    System flush in any case when a clutch pack is damaged, because all the parts went thru the system and are in the torque converter, trans cooling lines, in the valve body and pan.
    If normal wear = fine "dust" particles in the trans pan, no need, the ATF filter catches it and the steel particles are caught be the magnets.

    As for the valve body rebuilt kits on Ebay, they usually come from the specialized trans parts shops, they sell online in their shops, but also via ebay and amazon, just one example, they offer the 5HP30 VK kit with all original ZF parts
    http://stores.ebay.com/OEM-Solenoids...p2047675.l2563
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF5HP30-ZF-O...item4af4041dd1
    Last edited by shogun; 10-04-2016 at 09:43 AM.
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  22. #22
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    So it might be safe to say the source could be else where.. 174k.. shifts super smooth not much lag... every gear up or down seams to be superb... just doesn't engage in reverse very good.. hesitates real bad gotta give a lil gas and ease it in

  23. #23
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    Reverse probs on the 5HP30 is usually the small ball becoming smaller in the valve body. I have seen 5HP30 valve bodies where the ball was so small that it was found in another place in the valve body, as it slipped thru the holes and channels of the valve body. See here, all good info on transmission problems
    http://www.europeantransmissions.com...MWtechinfo.htm
    BMW ZF 5-HP-30 NO REVERSE
    1991 and later BMW vehicles equipped with the ZF 5-HP-30 transmission may exhibit a no reverse condition, when selector lever is placed into reverse.The cause may be, the .236" diameter checkball located in the bathtub in the channel plate
    has blown through the spacer plate, which will now exhaust "F" clutch (Reverse) oil pressure.
    Install a .250" diameter plastic checkball into the bathtub in the channel plate as shown in Figure 1. The holes in the spacer plate over the bathtub measure .198" and the larger diameter checkball will greatly decrease the probability of this condition occuring again. There is also ample room in the bathtub for the increased diameter checkball to perform its duties. Refer to Figure 1. Figure 2 illustrates the location of the only other checkball in this unit and do not install checkball in the location marked "X".The checkball wearing and blowing through the spacer plate causing the loss of reverse,may also have caused some damage to the "C" Clutch which is also on in reverse. This condition has also been known to create damage to the "A"/"C" Clutch Housing as well. If the clutch housing has been severly damaged, aluminum material will be evidenced in the bottom pan upon inspection.When the unit is removed and the "A"/"C" Clutch Housing is dis-assembled, it is not uncommon for the unit to set for over a week waiting on parts. When re-assembling it is very easy to mis-assemble the "B" Clutch Hub on top of the retaining snap ring for the "A" Clutch pack. This mis-assembly will create a neutralizing on the 3-4 upshift, and the Trans
    light will begin flashing.Ensure that you assemble the "B" Clutch Hub on top of the "A" Clutch stack, and then install the "A" Clutch Pressure Plate and snap ring, as shown in Figure 3.
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