Big Single 2JZ E36 M3

[Jkpgt96]

Time for another update!

Rear Subframe has had all of the bushings replaced with akg red poly and the Rally Road 210 conversion kit welded in. We also reinforced the sway bare tabs. I have also installed new rtabs with akg poly units. We have also POR15'd the subframe. Here it is!


Here is the final assembly getting ready to go back in with the newly refreshed/upgraded 210 E32 diff. It is a 3.15 LSD unit with new guts and a Thayer 4 clutch upgrade to help me put the down power a bit better!




Back in it went




Next up was the 420g install, which I am currently working on...but here is where I am at.


Adapter plate is in, starter is in, BMW pilot bearing is installed. The 420g I bought was a converted SMG unit that was not resealed properly (but never run) so I pulled the bellhousing off last night and resealed it. It is very simple..9 bolts, and off it came.




I also measured the shifter location and it looks like that with my mounts the carrier and dssr will need ~3" taken out of them to center the shifter (stock 420g w/ Evo shifter is ~28" in length, I need ~25".

Tonight, I plan to clean the trans, fill it up, and bolt it up so I can get a driveshaft length measured out. I have a bunch of small stuff that I want to get done as well which mostly came in yesterday.

[M52 POWER!]

I noticed my 420G trans for my swap has a lot of seepage around the housing, what did you use to reseal the 2 pieces?

[Jkpgt96]

ATF Rtv sealant


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[E36Leroux]

Always wanted to do the 210 diff upgrade, build is coming along killer! Make sure that adapter plate has dowel pins for the trans or your clutch is gunna have a bad time. (common problem with maverick motorsports adapter plates, no dowel pins. Transmission walks and clutch goes bye bye)

[Jkpgt96]

Noted. Thanks for the heads up..though I am not sure what you mean about the trans walking.


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[E36Leroux]

No worries, just trying to help through what i have seen.
If there are no dowel pins for the transmission, it can actually move up and down on the face of the plate depending on how much clearance there is in the bolt holes. Im not sure how much slop you have between the bolts and trans mount holes but even a small amount can shift it out of center, causing a lot of vibration and eventually clutch failure.
Looking at your pictures it looks like the bolts have a tighter fit but i would still look into this. It just happened to my friends 2JZ with a CD009 trans with a Maverick adapter plate. Only adpater plates ive seen with dowel pins are Collins
Not sure picture works but see below
Capture.JPG

[Jkpgt96]

I gotcha..The big bolts that pickup the engine are a pretty tight clearance on the through hole in the plate. The trans side does pickup the dowel on the starter hump pretty tight, but I see what you are talking about.

[E36Leroux]

Oh my bad, i didn't know there was dowel pin on the trans. But one is definitely better than none at all!
It shouldn't be an issue then, just remember to double check all the bolts are torqued and loc-tite so theres no chance of it coming loose

[Jkpgt96]

Yup. I have loctite red on everything that I don't intend on removing lol.


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[E36Leroux]

Right on! Looking forward to seeing this done, i was wondering how the 420g will perform with the 3.15 diff and 2JZ. (i currently have the R154 with 3.91, my car is so loud cruising on the highway...need to change up soon lol)

[Jkpgt96]

I think it will be a solid combo. My r154 and 3.38 was sooo long. I could do 40-125ish and shift once.


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[Jkpgt96]

420g is in for mockup of the trans crossmember, driveshaft, and shift linkage/carrier.

Driveshaft total needs to be 51.25", but it appears that CSB to diff length in my E36 with a large case is the same as an E46, per my initial measurement...so I will be taking the driveshaft apart to replace the csb and have the front half shortened.

Also..top bolts are impossible to get in with the motor/trans in the car. So I will be dropping the subframe/engine and support it via my engine brace so I can get to the top bolts.

[Jkpgt96]

Well..the clutch/pp/fw are all in, along with the transmission (hopefully for the last time!). I will say that doing this in the garage without a lift and in the car is a giant pain in the ass because the clutch/fw assembly sticks out so far from the engine the tunnel narrows too quickly to get the transmission on (it fits fine without anything on the engine) but I was able to get it on there and bolts up! The items that are left before the car gets put on the ground are:

clutch line
trans mount (modify my r154 mount)
finish weld the shifter linkage and carrier
trailing arms/axle install
driveshaft shortened/balanced/installed
repair broken csb stud
reinstall rear sway bar
mount new 255/50 RS3 V2s!

[Jkpgt96]

Just a small update..

We fired the car up without a driveshaft on Sunday and everything looked good, as expected since nothing with the engine was changed aside from a new driver side valve cover.


Shifter fits pretty well, we didn't cut and reweld it again to center it because it actually works very nicely as is. It reaches all gears and he throw is pretty short. This is a modded eBay e36 Evo carrier and shifter using akg round bushings on the carrier. I do have a dssr to cut up once I drive it annoy and ensure there are no issues.



The car is all back together and ready to drive tonight! Super stoked to drive it again!





I did end up using a bolt and nut on the diff to cv joint because the e46 m3 shaft didn't have studs and the e32 diff flange is not threaded. Not a big deal I just didn't know this until Sunday.



I also took the chance to install my cupholder console.



I'll try to take video of the first drive on the 420g setup tonight and report back!


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[Jkpgt96]

So..first drive didn't go well..it appears that I have the clutch disk in backward. I installed it with the extended part of the hub facing outward (toward the trans) but the clutch is not disengaging.

Car goes into all gears when not running, but when running it is very hard to get into any gears (with a horrendous grind when trying reverse). The clutch to the floor and pulling the parking brake with the car in gear and it wants to stall.

There is no air in the clutch line and upon disassembly nothing looks out of place or incorrect..so I will be reinstalling the disc the other direction and seeing if that does the trick!

[E36Leroux]

The backwards clutch is a common problem with people installing clutch's on the R154, happened to a friend recently. Guess it decided to transfer over to the 420g for you :P

pull it out and turn it around, hopefully it didn't scar up the clutch too bad! (on the R154 it damages the clutch springs because of clearance issues when backwards)

hopefully you can get it sorted and test that new driveline to its capabilities!

[Jkpgt96]

That ended up being the problem. I have put about 50 miles on the setup so far and am really enjoying the new suspension and gearing!


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[Jkpgt96]

Time for an update!

I have about 600 miles on the clutch/trans setup and have had zero issue with it. I absolutely love how this combo drives. It is easy to slip and drive in traffic, but holds great power thus far.

I put the car on the dyno to see what it would do and it was a great day at the dyno. We still have more tuning to do, but the car pulls great and hooks in 3rd with the current Hankook RS-3 255/40-17 out back. The car ended up making 719whp/702wtq, with a highest pulls (pre-heatsoak) of 758whp/710wtq. These pulls were made on 27-28psi and E70. We are about out of fuel on the injector and pump side (1200cc/Walbro 450). Time to get traction control wired up!

Here is a video of the dyno session.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYE6YDKKEAU

I also grabbed a set of 235/40-17 Federal 595s for the front.

[Jkpgt96]

Sorry for the lack of update..Photobucket has made my pictures mostly useless.

Here is a link to the album
http://s294.photobucket.com/user/jkp...up/2jz%20Build

And the trans swap
http://s294.photobucket.com/user/jkp...20Transmission


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[Jkpgt96]

I'm currently redoing some shitty machining that was done by the shop/previous owner of my transmission. The smg to manual conversion was done improperly and I will post my solution to this shotty work that was done shortly. Very frustrating.


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[pbonsalb]

Apparently that is a common issue. Conversion must be done very precisely.

[Jkpgt96]

Yeah..however the person who did the machining did a very half ass job. The snap ring grooves are not even close to the correct location or size. They didn't use caps with the snap rings, they used a washer and then filled the back with copper rtv. The snap rings don't seat in the groove well at all. The lower one actually came completely out and i spewed trans fluid. The diameter of the hole is also wayyy larger than it is supposed to be. So I had to do some extensive searching to find a thread pitch that I could tap the ports because making them larger isn't an option.


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[anoa324]

amazing build sir thank you for everything you have shared. good too see the new photo bucket pics as i couldnt see any of the previous ones lol. again amazing build keep up the good work

noa

[adi2009]

Hi there, I am just collecting parts for the same swap. However, I am planning to use the E36 M3 EVO gearbox (Getrag 420) which has a slightly different input shaft. Does anyone know what pressure plate I can use with the setup I am planning? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Jkpgt96]

Okay, I realized I have not updated this in quite some time. So..

I wasn’t thrilled with the original cooling setup and ditched the single spal fan. Now I use a set of flexalite shrouded fans. It’s much better now and I now run a colder mishimoto thermostat.

I changed the 16” MT Street SS setup for a 17” 275/40-17 et street r setup and mounted them on my Koseis. Now my old 255s are up front and I run a 12mm spacer and stud conversion from Motorsport Hardware.



I also bought another smg box and threw that in. It works great with my rtd mini v3 shifter and now
I’ll have a non-janky bellhousing to move to the other two 420g that I have if need be.

The clutch gave up when I took the car to the track. It slipped really back on the launch and then effectively would not hold any load after shifting into 4th. So on low boost and coating the last little bit I went 12.1@123 on a junk 2.08 60’. Now I have a new PMC kit that uses a tilton triple. No issues with that anymore lol.

I also pulled the motor this winter and removed the factory head shielding from the firewall and replaced it all and did the tunnel/floor in DEI head shield.

This winter I also tackled the destroyed passenger door panel and mounted up a jz ac compressor with the intention of putting ac back on the car.

I have also moved to a 1.0 turbine housing on my s366, and will be moving to a sxe372 this winter with a 4” downpipe to a cutout.

I have redone the fuel lines and changed to a -8 feed and replaced all of the rubber sections of the return with gates barricade line.

I have also installed BC coilovers as the old konis were trashed. Along with these, I put in bimmerworld adjustable lower camber arms and went a bit more aggressive with the roll on the rear to clear the 275s.

I’m also in the process of replacing the catch can with one that will accommodate -10 lines.

…I think that is most of it lol.


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