Many thanks again to Beaucephus for all your leg work!
A few clicks, one phone call and $6.06 later I have double the fittings I need! (Just in case I mess up somehow)
Eric P.
Hey, who did you order from? I tried MROStop and they took a couple months . . . .
I went to www.parker.com and clicked the "Where to buy" link.
Typed in my zipcode and picked "Industrial fittings"
One of the businesses listed was "Cross Hose and Fittings" in Greensboro within blocks of my office.
Monday I called to find out it's their corporate offices but they patched me throuh to the store in town.
I read the part numbers to the guy on the phone and he said he had a couple in stock as did the Raleigh store.
When I offered to pay by phone and pickup on Thursday he said, "Don't worry about that. We'll just hold them for you. Do you want the ones from Raleigh, too?"
Sure! I figured extras were cheap insurance against my screw-ups.
So I swing by there this morning on my way to the office and he has the bags waiting for me.
The grand total: $6.06
He probably thought I was nuts because I came bouncing in there at 8:01 like a kid on Halloween.
Eric P.
I ended up using a yor-lok tube fitting from mcmaster-carr on the hard line after cutting the fuel hose off. I used the 8mm Tube OD x 1/4 NPT Female yor-lok fitting with a 1/4" NPT to hose barb fitting and sealed them together with Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant.
Yeah thanks I wound up getting those McMaster Carr fittings myself.
But next time I know to just ask my mom to drive over from Reidsville. Or ask my uncle to take care of it, since he lives in Greensboro. You might know him, Hugh "Pumpkinhead" Williams.
looks like i picked the perfect project to tackle the weekend before the vintage. luckily, a local hydraulic shop had those parker fittings.
anyone else tried this recently? i actually ordered the oem fuel hose (#1 in the realoem diagram). got it from my local dealership for $45 shipped. figured it would be better than trying to find that banjo fitting at the distributor end.
so is there any shot i won't have to cut the hard line? and if i do have to cut it, will i be able to take off a small enough section that i won't have add a piece of hose to #1 to make up for the lost length on the hard line? also am i the only one who doesn't understand why everyone is advocating against heating the fitting due to the fuel present, but is in favor of cutting a metal line, which will undoubtedly produce sparks? not trying to sound like a smartass, just don't want to light myself on fire.
as always, the help is appreciate. let me know what y'all think.
I'm thinking you can cut the metal line with a spinning pipe cutter, which would not produce any sparks. I've wandered into this conversation with no background so I may be way off, but after you've cut the pipe end and removed the old screw fitting, you'd have to put the new fitting on and then put a conical flare on the end for the ferrule to seat in.
Are you sure you need to cut your metal line? Two spanners and some blaster oil can't get that fuel line unscrewed?
Last edited by Hagbard; 05-12-2016 at 12:11 PM.
1982 320i E21 Coupe, Manual, Cashmere Metallic, 162K+ miles (Daily Driver)
1997 318i E36 Sedan, Manual, Black, 388K+ miles (RIP)
Nice work
Randy
man, i'm hoping i don't have to cut it. just preparing for the worst, as we both know is typically the way these jobs tend to go.
but even if i don't have to cut the hard line, though, the original ferrule probably won't be reusable (assuming its not fused to the end of the hard line). if i do need to cut it, though, i don't think it needs to be flared because as far as i've gathered, looks like as the screw fitting tightens, it compresses the small end of the ferrule up into the fitting at the end of the flex hose and the hard line into the larger opening at the bottom of the ferrule, squishing everything together.
excellent idea on the pipe cutter, though. would have never thought of that.
Problem is the location of the oem hard line fitting. It does not give you enough room to spin a pipe cutter let alone a flaring tool unless you remove the entire line off the car first. I had the same problem with mine being completely seized onto the hard line, making cutting it off my only option. I used a dremel with cutoff wheel and didnt have any problems with sparks or blowing up. I did leave the fitting sit a couple days to make sure any fuel and vapors at that location had dissipated before cutting. With the correct tube compression fitting, you do not need to flare the tube whatsoever. The double ferril design of the fitting creates a leakproof seal onto the metal tube. Just have to make sure that the tube is cut perfectly flat and all burrs removed. And also make sure the screw end part of the fitting is completely seated against the tube before tightening it down onto the tube.
Its not the gasoline you have to worry about, the liquid part will put out a match, its the vapor coming off the liquid that is burnable , forced air the tube and your good to go. Internal combustion proves that, thru compression the liquid turns to vapor or a gas form and is ignited as such by the spark plug with oxygen present.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 05-12-2016 at 01:11 PM.
Hey guys, I've moved on, but needed to come back just to tell you the bubble flare is required if it was there before. These fittings are precision work. Don't play with gas. Have a fire extinguisher. Plan on YOU being on fire.
He is referring to the return line that has a flare on the hard line, not the feed line that we are talking about.
got the job finished this weekend. much easier than i anticipated. i didn't end up having to cut the fitting and when i removed the hose, the original ferrule was fused to the hard line, so i reused it. tightened it up, ran it, drove it, no leaks yet. only time will tell, though.
the best piece of advice i can offer is to start soaking that fitting with pb blaster or wd at least 48 hours before you do the job. i gave it a quick squirt from the top about every 12 hours starting thursday morning and did the job saturday morning with no problems.
Awesome work man. There's no substitute for patience!
1982 320i E21 Coupe, Manual, Cashmere Metallic, 162K+ miles (Daily Driver)
1997 318i E36 Sedan, Manual, Black, 388K+ miles (RIP)
Aye, good job, jlups.
If the hard line and flex line is in good condition, fittings are tightened and it's not seeping fuel after one hour of run time, it's good.
Tbd
Parker Store is near by stopped in got 4 ea for that day .. Nice to Find NLA parts, elsewhere. Thanks beaucephus and others. Having parts in hand is worth more than two in the bush. I see how this fits together in original condition using these pieces from Parker. I had a leak in the back hose with the same fittings and after a few minutes got it loose got it out and replaced the hose, the compression fitting stayed with the hard line and I tightened up the nut and drove the fitting in place no leaks or smell of gas. Well done beaucephus , Eric and others--Nice plane beaucephus.
DSCI0105.JPGDSCI0106.JPG
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 10-03-2017 at 12:19 PM.
Assuming all is still good!
Bump on those fuel line pieces and for future reference.
I've not shopped from these folks, and they appear to have a bunch of the same Parker fittings.
8 mm Tube Nut
8 mm Progressive Ring
8 mm fuel pipe line tube nut ::
https://www.partsgopher.com/product/...m#.XAoDmlRKg1I
8 mm fuel pipe line tube ferrule slip sleeve progressive ring (search friendly?) ::
https://www.partsgopher.com/product/...r#.XAoDvVRKg1I
*Get extras, not just enough to get the job done (ie: for test fitting, loosing, etc..)
*And do Not forget to read the install instructions...
Last edited by epmedia; 12-07-2018 at 12:53 AM.
Tbd
This post was very helpful to figure out how this connection works and I wanted to post a response. I just had that problem separating the hose from the steel pipe yesterday, supply line by the passenger fuel tank was stuck. I was replacing the hose between the fuel filter and a steel pipe with the correct BMW part. Someone in the past must have had a leak there and instead of using a proper high pressure line from BMW or make your own, they rigged it by using a standard fuel hose. I am surprised it worked at all, and it did for years, but not surprisingly there was a minor leak at the clamp. Next, I will need to deal with the same problem on the opposite side, in the engine compartment, where the plastic line going to frequency valve was patched with the piece of a rubber hose.
Anyway, the stuck connection comes apart. At least it did in my case. WD40, vice grips on the 14mm male part section/threads of the rubber line (can be damaged as it is getting replaced anyway) and tapping with the a hammer did the job. NLA sleeve stayed on the pipe and while it spins, I do not see how it could come off. I put the new hose on it and luckily no leaks.
So cutting or replacing the pipe may not be necessary. Tapping with the hammer should eventually get it free, given time and patience.
Max
Last edited by mxl556; 06-14-2021 at 08:50 AM.
Mine had a leak,, No 10 Hard Plastic Line, what I did is remove all the hard plastic line and replace with fuel injection hose with two small clamps. Did this years ago--no leaks.
Randy
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