Fuel supply line removal - stuck on hard line

[beaucephus]

So my fuel supply line #1 is leaking and is stuck on the hard line so bad that yanking on it lifts the whole car. The nut is fully removed of course. Thoughts are applying heat (ruled out due to fire risk) and cutting the hard line and starting over with new #1 and #17. The hard line itself is even still available if things go south.

Any other ideas? Who's replaced their supply line?
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[Ohiocatguide]

I havent got that far on mine yet... On diagram is #1 crimped from factory.

but my answer to everything is Free All and vise grips... Good luck is all i can offer now

[gusm325]

I had this problem with the same kind of line under the seat...
I remember cussing and yanking for 20 minutes, till it gave, if you can grab the side you're replacing with a good set of pliers and move it "up 'n down" while pulling and twisting; that pressure washer/ring in there is tight as a drum...
It will snap suddenly, just like the shifter knob.
Watch 'em knuckles!

[beaucephus]

Both myself, my brother, and my dad tried all versions of just yanking on it we could think of. Bugger.

[gusm325]

I wouldn't heat it though...
If you where to disconnect it under the car in order to empty the line to be able heat it, you probably have to deal with the same kind of issue at the other end...
Can you turn it? That pressure ring is like "rusted" with something like gasoline white deposits...

Take some time off, and then get back to it, it will eventually give its been in there forever...

[beaucephus]

It will turn, yes. Squeeks a lot.

[epmedia]

The slip ring (17) is still avail, the nut (16) is not - so be careful with the nut.

If you are careful with wire cutters as a wedge between the flex line/slip ring, and pliers on the slip ring, and have a 3rd or 4th hand (to turn wrench on flex line) you can 'attempt' to separate them without goofing them up after applying some penetrant a few times.

Order that slip ring and flex hose incase you do have to cut the hardline next to the nut. Also be aware the 'old' slip ring 'may' not seal good to the new flex line. And remember the nut is NLA - so be careful with it

Here's what it looks like after cutting the hardline. After the slip ring gets squished, it sort of flares the end of the hardline too, which is why it's stuck.

Oh - blurry pic... The shining dot on the RT is the end of the hardline that tends to 'flare' when it's all squished together.

[pommeree]

You don't say.
I'm stalled where you are.
Let me know when you get it free ...
Also, before you cut, make sure you have replacement parts *in hand*
A lot of sites will show they carry the compression ring but don't actually have them on the shelf.





STUCK!!!

[beaucephus]

Wow that looks familiar. Except mine is all still on the car. Nice pics. Did you have any trouble getting the other end off the car? Some of my plan below involves a stand by fire extinguisher and the wife dialing 9 and 1 unless I get it off the car.

Here is the plan

1. Heat (heat gun) and yank on it.
2. More Heat (torch) and yank on it some more.
3. Cut the crimps off, replace the hose section (not yet sourced), reconnect, place offerings to CIS gods, and testing
4. Cut the pipe and hope re-fab magic happens.

[epmedia]

Have you tried penetrant and pliers on the slip (compression) ring yet?
You're nuts to put heat on it unless unless the line is disconnected on both ends and has been evacuated of all fuel vapors (seal the fuel filter outlet too).

[Been]

I used penetrating fluid and a snap punch to the hex of the braided line, just above the junction.

[gsumzzz]

Dremel time?

- - - Updated - - -

And water.

[pommeree]

In my case I've successfully unscrewed nut #16 only to find the end of hose #1 fused into the compression ring #17
My strategy would be
- With new #1 in hand, make sure you've got an extra 1" or so slack to the tip of the hard line.
- With new #17 (compression ring) in hand, cut the hard line immediately below nut #16
- Deburr the end of the hard line, slip the nut then the compression ring over the end of the hard line.
- install and torque down new hose #1

[vtgti]

This is the opposite, but still the same (temperature change cracks corrosion), plus one it cracks penetrate is absorbed into the cracks.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05002-Free.../dp/B000TFTH00

[beaucephus]

I used penetrating fluid and a snap punch to the hex of the braided line, just above the junction.

How exactly does this work? I don't get it. What kind of snap punch?

- - - Updated - - -

Have you tried penetrant and pliers on the slip (compression) ring yet?
You're nuts to put heat on it unless unless the line is disconnected on both ends and has been evacuated of all fuel vapors (seal the fuel filter outlet too).

I don't think I can get pliers on it. Is the compression ring visible in pomeree's last picture or is the bright part the hose?

[epmedia]

I don't think I can get pliers on it. Is the compression ring visible in pomeree's last picture or is the bright part the hose?

Yes - it's the thick (only shiny part) in this pic:
Lots of good ideas in this thread, try a few - just don't use the heat unless the line is completely evacuated of vapors!



In my blurry picture, the bottom of the right piece is the shiny piece in pomeree's picture too. The whole thing in that item is the compression/slip ring with the exception of the tiny tip of the hardline on top of it. This piece was cut off the hard line. I wish it was a better picture so you can see it better

[beaucephus]

Alrighty then, this might be easier now that I have something to grab. I thought that was part of the threaded fitting!

[Tom D]

personally I would put a torch on it, seriously!

[pommeree]

The thick, shiny part you see is the lower half of the compression ring.
It gets sandwiched between the threaded end of the hose and the nut thereby compressing it into the surface of the hard tubing.
The end of the hard line here is not flared in any way. It's simply cut clean and the ring does all the work.

[epmedia]

I just noticed the slip/compression ring is now showing NLA on the realoem!
Find some quick before they're all gone...

Here's a pic I found if it helps:

[beaucephus]

Where are you guys seeing the slip ring still available?

- - - Updated - - -

Shit, I thought this might be a semi-standard part, but it looks pretty damn special.

- - - Updated - - -

Until I source the part, I'm backing out and putting it back together. I'll try to repair the line between the fittings.

[epmedia]

Slip ring part # 07119970111
You can google the # and hopefully one or more of the suppliers still have some incase you end up having to cut the hard line.

The picture I posted in #20 is from these folks (Europe)
http://www.wallothnesch.com/catalogs...&q=07119970111

[beaucephus]

I shot some emails to BMW Parts Supply and the German vendor you listed. Hope somebody has it...

[epmedia]

Until I source the part, I'm backing out and putting it back together. I'll try to repair the line between the fittings.

That's a good backup plan. The hose crimps are buggars to cut off, work slowly with the cutting tools so as not to damage the hose fitting. Gates makes a good fuel injection hose rated at 225 and 180 psi. Don't get any hose rated lower than 150psi.

[Tom D]

seriously, I'd put a torch to that thing. what's the worst that could happen, start a fire? no explosions, no blown up garages, this isn't hollywood. if you disconnect both ends of the line and maybe blow it out with air for good measure what's going to explode? maybe the gas saturated hose might catch fire, so you smother it. put a torch to it.