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Thread: E46 Compact Track Day Build

  1. #51
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    Well, The season's over and the Compact is now in storage at my parents place. Days before taking it there the Check Engine Light came on after about a mile into my trip to work. The CEL was accompanied by an odd vibration from the engine and slightly lowered idle revs and it felt like it would stall any moment. When pushing the throttle it felt "coarse" and odd. A slight shaking vibration, but nothing violent. Then for my trip home it started up like normal, CEL was on but perfect idle smooth through the rev range.....right until I had gone about a mile. Then it had the same odd roughness to it and at idle it had a low frequency hum a bit like a big ferry. This pattern kept going on for the next couple of rides until it went to my parents'. Normal at start up and then ferry vibrations after a mile.

    I'll get hold of a code reader to start troubleshooting, but if anyone has any ideas to what it might be, I'm all ears.

    Speaking of code readers, is anyone out there using MyCarly? If so, is it any good?

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  2. #52
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    Alright. New engine and transmission mounts from DriftShop.....Can't wait to install and test....



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  3. #53
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  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulmi View Post


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  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by KlausH79 View Post
    Well, The season's over and the Compact is now in storage at my parents place. Days before taking it there the Check Engine Light came on after about a mile into my trip to work. The CEL was accompanied by an odd vibration from the engine and slightly lowered idle revs and it felt like it would stall any moment. When pushing the throttle it felt "coarse" and odd. A slight shaking vibration, but nothing violent. Then for my trip home it started up like normal, CEL was on but perfect idle smooth through the rev range.....right until I had gone about a mile. Then it had the same odd roughness to it and at idle it had a low frequency hum a bit like a big ferry. This pattern kept going on for the next couple of rides until it went to my parents'. Normal at start up and then ferry vibrations after a mile.

    I'll get hold of a code reader to start troubleshooting, but if anyone has any ideas to what it might be, I'm all ears.

    Speaking of code readers, is anyone out there using MyCarly? If so, is it any good?

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    Ok, so I borrowed a Carly code reader and pulled the codes from the car. It was difficult to start it as it had a very rough idle for a max of 10 secs and then it died. Finally it fired up and was smooth as a kitten and just kept going while I pulled the codes.

    Here's are the engine codes:

    Engine / Motor M54B25:
    - Fault: Lambda probe heating upstrem sensor 2
    - Code: 0000BD
    - Fault: Lambda probe heating downstrem sensor 2
    - Code: 0000BF
    - Fault: Air mass meter
    - Code: 000008
    - Fault: Cylinder 5 not firing
    - Code: 0000F2
    - Fault: Cylinder 4 not firing
    - Code: 0000F1
    - Fault: Cylinder 6 not firing
    - Code: 0000F3
    - Fault: Lambda contol tolerance too large bank
    - Code: 0000E3

    Could it be something as simple as a dirty MAF which is screwing everything?

    Any help to figuring this out would be great!




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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by KlausH79 View Post
    Ok, so I borrowed a Carly code reader and pulled the codes from the car. It was difficult to start it as it had a very rough idle for a max of 10 secs and then it died. Finally it fired up and was smooth as a kitten and just kept going while I pulled the codes.

    Here's are the engine codes:

    Engine / Motor M54B25:
    - Fault: Lambda probe heating upstrem sensor 2
    - Code: 0000BD
    - Fault: Lambda probe heating downstrem sensor 2
    - Code: 0000BF
    - Fault: Air mass meter
    - Code: 000008
    - Fault: Cylinder 5 not firing
    - Code: 0000F2
    - Fault: Cylinder 4 not firing
    - Code: 0000F1
    - Fault: Cylinder 6 not firing
    - Code: 0000F3
    - Fault: Lambda contol tolerance too large bank
    - Code: 0000E3

    Could it be something as simple as a dirty MAF which is screwing everything?

    Any help to figuring this out would be great!




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    Hey, I enjoyed going through your build and the nurburgring video just now. Anyway, looking at your codes, I notice that both lambda sensors concerned are on the same bank and being bank #2 I would assume it also concerns cylinders 4-5-6. Therefore there's some kind of correlation there which would make a MAF error unlikely as that would affect the whole lot. I would begin by checking ALL the spark plugs and compare 1-2-3 to 4-5-6. I would also check the coil packs for cracks and things while they're out (simply because it's out, a visual inspection never hurts even if I doubt there's an issue there). If nothing is odd I would try swapping the O2 sensors from bank 1 to bank 2 and vice versa, clear the codes and start again to see what happens and what codes come up. By the sounds of it and the codes, it's strange but it would seem like there might just be an ignition cut or fuel cut to cylinders 4-5-6. It might actually be something to do with the wiring that powers the coil packs or the injectors. It might pay to swap the coil packs around as well 1-2-3 go to 4-5-6 and vice versa, and again clear then check codes. Do one thing at a time to isolate components between code checks. It would be nice to have access to a wiring diagram and trace the electrical feed in case there's some kind of isolation between the circuits to 1-2-3 and 4-5-6. Let us know if you find the issue and good luck I've been looking for an E36 compact 323ti because I prefer the look of it but am now seriously considering the 325ti because of suspension setup but I like my cars as simple as possible and I don't like all the extra gizmos in the E46 series (potential problems with all the extra electronics), nor did I like the look but the more I look at it the more it's growing on me. The E46 suspension is also very appealing compared to the trailing arm E36 compact rear...but that also means more bushings to replace when the time comes. Can you confirm that the E46 compact doors are framed like the E36 compact? Frameless doors is one of the main things that put me off the E36 and E46 coupes due to complications if going with composite windows... Anyway, looking forward to updates. It's good to see the various brands of replacement parts and feedback from your build. It's helping me weigh things up for car choice.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahviamusicom View Post
    Hey, I enjoyed going through your build and the nurburgring video just now. Anyway, looking at your codes, I notice that both lambda sensors concerned are on the same bank and being bank #2 I would assume it also concerns cylinders 4-5-6. Therefore there's some kind of correlation there which would make a MAF error unlikely as that would affect the whole lot. I would begin by checking ALL the spark plugs and compare 1-2-3 to 4-5-6. I would also check the coil packs for cracks and things while they're out (simply because it's out, a visual inspection never hurts even if I doubt there's an issue there). If nothing is odd I would try swapping the O2 sensors from bank 1 to bank 2 and vice versa, clear the codes and start again to see what happens and what codes come up. By the sounds of it and the codes, it's strange but it would seem like there might just be an ignition cut or fuel cut to cylinders 4-5-6. It might actually be something to do with the wiring that powers the coil packs or the injectors. It might pay to swap the coil packs around as well 1-2-3 go to 4-5-6 and vice versa, and again clear then check codes. Do one thing at a time to isolate components between code checks. It would be nice to have access to a wiring diagram and trace the electrical feed in case there's some kind of isolation between the circuits to 1-2-3 and 4-5-6. Let us know if you find the issue and good luck I've been looking for an E36 compact 323ti because I prefer the look of it but am now seriously considering the 325ti because of suspension setup but I like my cars as simple as possible and I don't like all the extra gizmos in the E46 series (potential problems with all the extra electronics), nor did I like the look but the more I look at it the more it's growing on me. The E46 suspension is also very appealing compared to the trailing arm E36 compact rear...but that also means more bushings to replace when the time comes. Can you confirm that the E46 compact doors are framed like the E36 compact? Frameless doors is one of the main things that put me off the E36 and E46 coupes due to complications if going with composite windows... Anyway, looking forward to updates. It's good to see the various brands of replacement parts and feedback from your build. It's helping me weigh things up for car choice.
    Wow, that's awesome! Thank you so much for the help.


    I totally see what you mean when looking at it affecting only one bank. I'm thinking I'll attack it in this order:

    1 check the harness for a loose/bad connection

    2 check the coils and switch them around

    3 check the spark plugs (they are almost brand new though)

    4 check O2 sensors

    5 switch sensors


    I looked up the ignition harness on Realoem and it looks like it's a single unit so it seems unlikely that that is at fault, but I'll look at it.


    As for your questions, yes the E46 Compact doors are framed. I choose the E46 because of the m54 engine and from what I read the chassis is more rigid. I never really look for the Compact, it just sort of fell in my lap, but I'm very happy with it so far. I have yet to see another E46 Compact on track and it is an ugly duckling so it stands out quite a bit 😁 as far as I can tell all E46 coupe parts fit the Compact so no worries there (unless you're changing the rear axel carrier panel which is different due to the "chopped off" tail).

    As for more gizmos and electronics then yes as you have pointed out.....These might be a problem 😉


    I will be back when I have investigated the issues! Thanks again!



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  8. #58
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    Alright, so I got around to tinker with the Compact this weekend. Im a big stressed out as I have a kind of a 1st World Problem of sorts because my wife booked a trackday at Spa Francorchamps on April 18th and I have a BMW that's throwing engine codes left and right. I have a whole list of stuff that needed doing and little time to actually do it.

    I tried fixing the code issue on Friday, but the reader wouldn't work properly so I had to wing it. I tried to pull out the plug for each coil with the engine running to see if they were firing and all six seemed to be firing as they should. Also looked at spark plugs and they looked to be functional also. Since I didn't have an O2 tool that had to wait for the next day.

    On top of this I had a bunch of other stuff that needed doing as the car has been sitting since November.

    The list

    Find and fix the engine issues causing a rough idle and multiple codes
    Oil change
    Transmission fluid change
    Transmission mounts
    Engine mounts
    Shifter bushings

    All but the shifter bushings were done! Yea...

    I have to get it on a lift to do those.

    To further work on the engine issues I tried swapping the O2 sensors.

    Bank 2



    Bank 1



    They were easily removed but have a brownish coating on them. I tried swapping them to see if Bank 2 was at fault, so I put a bit of anti seize on the threads and popped them back in, cleared the codes. Low and behold no engine codes came back up! CEL gone....Strange? Dunno, but it seems like somethings up with the sensors so just in case I bought a new set of sensors on Amazon. All four.

    Well on to the transmission and engine mounts this was a breeze on the transmission and a right PITA on the engine!

    Some of the more expensive trash I have bought recently 😒



    Completely failed UUC Blue transmission mounts

    Replaced with DriftShop Reds



    As I said the engine mounts were a real b!π¢# as I used a newly built engine brace (I think my dad tossed the other one I made)



    ....still had to both jack up on the oil pan (just a smidge) and drop the subframe (!) a tad to get those suckers out and then back in.....in my anguish I didn't get round to taking pics if that 😑


    Well with everything sorted I noticed some drops on the ground and it turns out that a coolant temp sensor is leaking!! Well Amazon to the rescue! It'll be here soon with the new sensors.

    Also this heat shield is very loose



    Are there any means of tightening that up again??

    Well, when the stuff from Amazon arrives I'll head over to my buddy's house to do the last few things on his lift and then it's off to Belgium!

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  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by KlausH79 View Post
    OK, but how are they when it comes to NVH? I've read about some people claiming that solid mounts can make a lot of noise and even vibrate so much that other bolts and stuff come undone. Hence I started looking at Revshift engine and transmission mounts. They also seem to be pretty good both product wise and support/service wise.

    I still use my car as a daily during summer but I'm OK with some added NVH but I don't want to have stuff rattling off the car and other stuff breaking because of solid mounts.

    Do you have any links to condor reviews? I can't really find any good or bad....

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    https://www.condorspeedshop.com/

    They are not solid. All poly bushings so not quite as harsh. I sometimes use my car to commute and haven't found it too offensive.

    No issues with other stuff breaking of rattling free

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjwilson89 View Post
    https://www.condorspeedshop.com/

    They are not solid. All poly bushings so not quite as harsh. I sometimes use my car to commute and haven't found it too offensive.

    No issues with other stuff breaking of rattling free
    Thanks JJ, but I opted for some mounts from DriftShop in France 😀 installed them this weekend. Haven't tried them out yet. Can't wait.

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  11. #61
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    Nice! I'm sure they will be great. It's a debated topic on here, but I love Poly bushings and much prefer the "solid" feel compared with OEM.

    Will be keeping track on this build, keep up the good work!

    Quote Originally Posted by KlausH79 View Post
    Thanks JJ, but I opted for some mounts from DriftShop in France �� installed them this weekend. Haven't tried them out yet. Can't wait.

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  12. #62
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    E46 Compact Track Day Build

    Well, the car now has tags on it and I drove it home. Lets just say it is NVH City in that car now with the new mounts! Holy crap....some noise (I can practically hear the gears slotting together when shifting and hear the clutch engage too) and a lot of vibration! Around 2200 rpm it's like sitting on a hammer drill..... OK for track but for daily, I probably should've opted for the black "street" type....live and learn.....I just have to remember to torque up various bolts every now and again

    It could also be due to the issues I have with the sensor and codes I have. I had them all erased last week and they didn't come back for the whole trip home (50km/30miles) but when I stopped in to put it through the car wash it threw a bunch of codes while idling.

    Pulled them when I got home:

    Engine / Motor:
    - Fault: :Final stage launch control Bank2 / Lambda-Adaption, Bank 2 / Launch Control Amplifier / Lambda contol tolerance Bank 2 too large / Fuel trim, bank 2 / Self- test EGAS
    - Code: 0000E4
    - Fault: :Requirement CAN EGS / KAT protection is activated when the tank is empty / SSG timeout - message
    - Code: 000081
    - Fault: :Lambda control bank 1 limit / Lambda control bank 1 control block / Fuel trim bank 1 limit values / Misfire Cyl. 7 cat-dam / Error memory content / Lambda regulator limit bank 1
    - Code: 0000CA
    - Fault: :Misfire cylinder 1 / Misfiring cylinders 1 / cylinder 1 not firing
    - Code: 0000EE
    - Fault: :Misfire cylinder 2 / cylinder 2 not firing / Misfiring cylinder 2
    - Code: 0000EF

    There's still a fault on Bank 2, but the misfires have "moved" to Bank 1 following the O2 sensor I swapped which to me feels like there's something up with that sensor. Hopefully these will be eradicated once I get the new sensor in the the US over the weekend.

    If you think I wrong please let me know! I'm very open to any input on this.

    EDIT: the vibration is at 2200 rpm....Not 2700.

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    Last edited by KlausH79; 03-23-2017 at 10:07 AM.

  13. #63
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    Parts Are in! Will start swapping them in tomorrow....I hope this cures my code issues.



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  14. #64
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    Well, the new pre cat O2 sensors seem to have done the trick on the CEL! Nice! Thanks ahviamusicom!

    Ive been trying to investigate the weird rumble at 2200 rpm which is also there when I accelerate from around 1500 rpm and I think it comes down to a worn DMF. So I bought this:



    Valeo Single mass flywheel conversion and accompanying bits like guibo, center bearing, driveshaft guide bearing, and rear main seal.

    I hope to get a new stainless steel pivot pin from eBay very soon and then it's off to be professionally installed....

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  15. #65
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    Well I got the flywheel and clutch installed together with the accompanying bits along with the two post cat O2 sensors. Drove it home and while idling the CEL came back on.

    So I looked and I looked and I looked for something and I found this




    Which was sitting here



    Way in the back of the intake....

    Could this be enough if a vacuum leak to cause those codes?




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  16. #66
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    Earned my stickers :-)

    Two GP circuits in one day!!!

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  17. #67
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    Alright after some research into my heavy vibration I have tried more or less everything. After throwing parts at it I had the DME reflashed as per a bunch of reports from people with similar vibrations. However this was to no avail but the mechanic did mention that it might be as simple as a natural vibration accentuated by the semi solid transmission mounts. So I just swapped the original rubber mounts back in and now it is smooth as silk! Can't wait for the next outing at Ring Knutstorp on Saturday with Gentlemans Racing Club in Sweden!

    Also I tokk a look at the DriftShop transmission mounts and they are not great quality. The poly is starting to separate from the "body" and they have warped slightly so the top stud is a bit crooked. This in only 3000 miles....



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  18. #68
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    Awesome day at Ring Knutstorp today. The car was an absolute peach the whole day!

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  19. #69
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    .. borrowed my buddy's phone with Harry's Laptimer on it to document a few laps....looks pretty boring but I was having fun....the squeaking is my Sparco seat slider....I wonder if they can install one of those engine noise synthesizers in an E46 .....I need one

    https://youtu.be/hI3W6jIpWHA

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  20. #70
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    Went to a little after work track day at Sturup Raceway this evening. Cool little track with very few people there and the ones there didn't really go out on track that much whereas my buddy and I were doing circles (literally ) around the place. For more than 30 mins we were the only two cars on track. Very nice. It was soaking wet when we got there but it stopped raining and was almost dried up completely when we were done so as we got to know the track better the more we could push the throttle and brakes which was great. Had a little scare in a fast left hander where I simply went in too fast and the rear end got loose but no more than a little opposite lock couldn't handle, but at 115 kph (72mph) it was a bit heart in mouth

    The car ran perfectly, brakes were solid throughout without a hint of fade.

    It's a small very technical track and it was a bit hard on the brakes so I'll be looking for a new set of pads pretty soon.

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  21. #71
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    Alright, another brake job well done.

    New vs old pads



    The edges of the old pads is brittle and can be rubbed off with your fingers. There's also some cracking in the middle of the pad material. Any ideas as to why this is happening?

    EBC Bluestuff NDX went in again



    I think I need to get some stainless guide pins



    After a bit of sanding



    They do still have some pitting in the surfaces though...but it'll do for now.

    The pad wear is MUCH better this time round, but the right inner pad still has a bit of uneven wear



    The difference is 2.5mm which is much better than the wear I was seeing with the previous set of Yellowstuff.

    I also measured the rotor thickness and they are in good shape. Only 0.5mm of wear.

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    Last edited by KlausH79; 08-12-2017 at 12:11 PM.

  22. #72
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    possibly cracking due to heat and getting thin? you are tracking the car after all.

    in regards to the uneven wear maybe the rubber guide bushings on that caliper are worn out. i highly recommend going to brass guide pins.

  23. #73
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    E46 Compact Track Day Build

    Quote Originally Posted by bjh102 View Post
    possibly cracking due to heat and getting thin? you are tracking the car after all.

    in regards to the uneven wear maybe the rubber guide bushings on that caliper are worn out. i highly recommend going to brass guide pins.
    Yeah I would suspect the heat being the issue. It could be that the last trackday did it for them as it's quite hard on the brakes and they were running thin as you say. I think I'm going to ask EBC and get their input.

    With regards to the guide bushings then I am running brass guides already The pad wear is MUCH more even now than before with the rubber bushings, but still I have that one pad which is a bit off. I can see from others that they have experienced the same with the front right corner. Strange. Left side has two evenly worn pads.

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    Last edited by KlausH79; 04-10-2018 at 05:36 PM.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by KlausH79 View Post
    Alright after some research into my heavy vibration I have tried more or less everything. After throwing parts at it I had the DME reflashed as per a bunch of reports from people with similar vibrations. However this was to no avail but the mechanic did mention that it might be as simple as a natural vibration accentuated by the semi solid transmission mounts. So I just swapped the original rubber mounts back in and now it is smooth as silk!

    Also I tokk a look at the DriftShop transmission mounts and they are not great quality. The poly is starting to separate from the "body" and they have warped slightly so the top stud is a bit crooked. This in only 3000 miles....
    I, I'm sorry to hear that, I'm a little confused, because I suggested these to you, and a friend bought the same ones, and have the same problem... Even with the "road" black ones.
    And my mistake is, I have in fact these: http://www.cyl6.com/index.php?id_pro...ite&results=37 I bought them from Driftshop before they made their own, and didn't pay attention to the difference of design.
    So, please excuse me...
    Did you just replace the gearbox mounts of the engine mounts too?

    For the brakes, I ever had uneven wear on my both track E46. Brakes are a big problem on BMW :p
    I tried almost every pads, and all I can say now is:
    If you stick with OEM calipers and discs, the EBC yellow (best street legal you can find) or blue (not street legal, but cheap) are pretty good, but wear very fast. The only pads that last long are the Pagid RS29 (yellow), they are expensive, but much longer!
    The discs don't seem to be a problem on these cars, you can stick with inexpensive ones like Brembo Max or Ate Power Discs.
    BUT, at the beginning of this year, I finally switched to a complete Porsche 996 calipers with M3 CSL discs, and that's a totally different world... And, just think of it, in a future pads / discs replacement, the whole thing for front only is about 500€ (you can source a pair of front calipers fro about 300, brackets and braided lines for about 200).





    And depending on wheels, you can stick with 17"



    This is on my E36, but same thing with the E46.

    We got a stupid cheap 325ti for a friend, and we are doing the same thing as you.

    Last edited by ulmi; 08-14-2017 at 04:21 AM.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulmi View Post
    I, I'm sorry to hear that, I'm a little confused, because I suggested these to you, and a friend bought the same ones, and have the same problem... Even with the "road" black ones.
    And my mistake is, I have in fact these: http://www.cyl6.com/index.php?id_pro...ite&results=37 I bought them from Driftshop before they made their own, and didn't pay attention to the difference of design.
    So, please excuse me...
    Did you just replace the gearbox mounts of the engine mounts too?

    For the brakes, I ever had uneven wear on my both track E46. Brakes are a big problem on BMW
    I tried almost every pads, and all I can say now is:
    If you stick with OEM calipers and discs, the EBC yellow (best street legal you can find) or blue (not street legal, but cheap) are pretty good, but wear very fast. The only pads that last long are the Pagid RS29 (yellow), they are expensive, but much longer!
    The discs don't seem to be a problem on these cars, you can stick with inexpensive ones like Brembo Max or Ate Power Discs.
    BUT, at the beginning of this year, I finally switched to a complete Porsche 996 calipers with M3 CSL discs, and that's a totally different world... And, just think of it, in a future pads / discs replacement, the whole thing for front only is about 500€ (you can source a pair of front calipers fro about 300, brackets and braided lines for about 200).





    And depending on wheels, you can stick with 17"



    This is on my E36, but same thing with the E46.

    We got a stupid cheap 325ti for a friend, and we are doing the same thing as you.

    Hey Ulmi

    Oh I see. No those are not the transmission mounts I got....don't worry about it....it was my decision to get them the engine mounts seem pretty good. I returned the transmission mounts a few weeks ago, and DriftShop said they would replace them with new black one, but it sounds like those are no good either.

    Yes I just swapped in the original transmission mounts I had from when I changed the gearbox whenI got the car. He car runs perfectly. I have not experienced any movement in the gear lever whatsoever with the combination of poly engine mounts and standard transmission mounts and there is barely any added noise or vibration in the cabin...at any rpm. If I were to change the transmission mounts to anything else I'm just going to go for standard M3 transmission mounts together with the DriftShop Engine Mounts.

    Uh those 996 calipers sure look tempting, but I don't see a BBK upgrade in the card in the near future. Even though it's a good bang for the buck I'd still like to do an LSD first. With that being said I have been looking a bit at EBC's new Balanced Brake Kit....🤤

    So cool that another Compact is getting track ready

    I will look at the RS29's next time. Would you say they are OK for road use/daily driving?

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

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