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Thread: E46 Compact Track Day Build

  1. #26
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    Hi everyone. So I've finally gotten to a place where I can take the Compact to it's MOT and get tags on it. However it won't start. Can you help me out?



    What's going wrong? I've tried a jumper battery and jumping it with my moms X3. Same result.

    Hope someone can help me out....

  2. #27
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    Face palm.....as I said....I'm new at this.....just put the jumper cables up right and give it enough power and things are just fine....just a case of NooB panic.....

  3. #28
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    Well now I've managed to get the car into my own carport instead of at my parents' place out in the boonies. This makes it a lot easier to work on as I can just pop out and grab a wrench for 10 min and be back before wifey notices I've even gone outside

    Well on to today's progress.

    I started trying to fix the rear brake line, which has a seized and completely rounded flare nut so I think I'll change the whole line. Have all the parts, just need the courage to actually do it. The room up front to get to the ASC where the line ends up is rediculously tight!! Hopefully my neighbor who's an airline mechanic can help me out tomorrow so I left that for a while.

    As I had the airbox, cabin air filter housing and other stuff out trying to get to the brake line I thought I'd take a stab at changing the spark plugs. I noticed some oil in the spark plug holes so I thought I might as well get on with it and do the valve cover gasket and VANOS refurb. So off I went.....good thing I saw the Bav Auto DIY of this like 10 times so I felt pretty confident going in. Here are some visuals...















    VC gasket is COMPLETELY plasticized and extremely brittle so it's a good thing I'm getting it done. VANOS seals also feel like they give the Pistons a lot of play so also good to get done.

    Until tomorrow.....hopefully with all good news

    Klaus

  4. #29
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    Ok so day two of this valve cover gasket/VANOS seal update went pretty well. VANOS is now fully rebuilt with new Beisan gaskets, refitted and now waiting for the valve cover with new gasket...

    Pics....

    Resizing Beisan gaskets


    VC gasket was very brittle


    VANOS back where it came from


    Beisan instructions are REALLY good with all the info you need along the way, however one amendment would've been nice and that is ONLY because sometimes amateurs like me don't read ahead. They could mention to route the electrical Barnes behind the exhaust solenoid when mounting the VANOS.....no biggy, but just a small thing...

    Brakeline job is still on hold waiting for the good grace of my neighbor.....

  5. #30
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    E46 Compact Track Day Build

    Alright. So The neighbor is out of town for two weeks, but the brake lines can't wait that long so I went at it alone today..... Borrowed his flaring tool though. Got the old line out with only a little hoo-hah (had to drop the tank and exhaust just a tad to get enough(not a lot by any measure) clearance), bent the new CuNiFer pipe up and it went in with no real hitches.

    Proof

    Old line on a "jig" (jig was later discarded)


    New line bent to shape


    New line


    Fitted it and it almost got 100% right off the bat


    Bare essential tools for the job


    Bled the line, started up the engine (this was the first time since the VANOS rebuild and VC gasket too so it was a grueling moment) pumped the brakes....all went well, no leaks in sight.....I'm pretty freggin' proud of myself for doing a job like that....didn't think I had it in me....

    Only bad thing is now the other rear line looks like crap next to the new one......

    Ready for its MOT.....I hope it passes......
    Last edited by KlausH79; 04-06-2015 at 03:53 PM.

  6. #31
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    Ok so last week was a big week. Good and bad. The Compact failed its first MOT due to the airbag light not being lit (fuse missing) and it was braking unevenly on the front. I didn't quite know how to fix the braking thing and needed a code reader and deleter (this is probably not the industry term for it ) so I decided to let a local shop look it over. The braking thing annoyed me so I read that it might just being a running in issue so as there were like 30 highway miles on the new discs and pads I thought this could be the problem so when I drove it down to the shop I held the brake pedal while driving slowly down there. A 1 mile trip. Well at the last light the brakes kinda stopped working. Pedal was firm but it seemed like it didn't apply any pressure on the discs. Well I thought it was just over heating and fading. The shop called me later and gave me some devastating news. I needed two new front calipers!!! My caliper rebuild was botched! F***. Well since I have my first outing planned for June 1st I decided to let them change them and get it MOT'd. Well two new calipers and 16 airbag codes deleted later this happened



    Tags!!! Yea!!!!

    So I drive it around a bit and then went at it again......

    Pulled this out.....



    Seriously bowed. Not only at the bottom but also at the top. I put in a new thermostat, expansion tank, hoses and fresh coolant with Redline water wetter. Job went pretty smoothly for a guy like me. Only issue was that the bung in the radiator marked MT for which I thought was "Manual Transmission " was not the right one.....which I learned when I started the car up to let the air out and it started hemorrhaging coolant. The other bung marked AT fixed the problem.....

    Now all I need is to make the last mounting point for the harness and we are good to go Silverstone!!! Yeah, it's first outing will be a 1800 mile round trip journey through 5 countries to go to a track day with 200 miles of 1-2-1 driving lessons with Eugene O'Brien a former BTCC driver!

    I just hope the car can make it there and back.....any tips on what to bring for road side repairs?

  7. #32
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    Remembers my old track car...



    ... sold to a young drifter.

    Was a good car!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuJi-XfPik8

  8. #33
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    Very nice. Compact track cars are very rare. What kind of modifications did yours have, if any?

  9. #34
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    Not a lot, just empty interior, a steering wheel, D2 coilovers, Federal RS-R tyres, braided brake lines, ATE Power Discs and EBC blue pads, like you.
    It was only an "emegency" track car when my M3 was broken. It did well on track, the only thing was, it was missing 150hp, and a LSD. lol
    Last edited by ulmi; 08-30-2015 at 04:45 AM.

  10. #35
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    Hey there.

    Well it's been a while since my last update. I did a long post on my iPad in June but Tapatalk crashed and my post got deleted just as I was finishing it. Never got around to writing it again....


    Well in short I finished the planned projects just in time for my trip to Silverstone, loaded the car up, picked up a friend and started the 1800 mile round trip. We made it to Silverstone for an amazing track day and the car didn't have a single hick up. It was by far the least exotic car there by quite a margin. It was a slew of Radicals, 911's, Astons, McLarens, AMG SLS GT3, Lotus's, all sorts of fully track prepared cars including Minis, BMW's, VW's, Miatas, Ferraris (new and classic), and a single 918 Spyder (danm! that thing is fast out of a corner!).

    Here are a few pics from the day.

















    After I got back I just used it as a daily drive for the rest of the summer with a few small fixes here and there. Power steering fluid, new front indicator and that porcupine thing for the A/C.





    Then I had it put in to storage in my parents garage with no intentions of doing much work to it....but then I couldn't stop looking for parts and the slippery slope got steeper and steeper. The whole suspension needed a major upgrade as I think most of the parts were original from when new.

    First off were front control arms



    Then The whole "while I'm in there" caught on so I got hold of all new tie rods and poly control arm bushings.







    Bought a 12 ton press too



    That made a lot of things easier, but the best tool I bought was this universal bearing press tool set.



    I used that a lot in the weeks to come....

    And lots of this...



    Control arms, bushings and tie rods in



    Old vs. new



    Well as I said slippery slope was started so I threw a new set of e-brake hardware in the basket along with new outer control arm bearings for both the upper and lower positions.



    Out with the old











    Then I found a great deal for a set of Bilstein B12 SportLine spring and damper combo which I went for too.





    This started a whole search for more parts cause not everything is included when you buy a set of dampers and springs....so on to getting top mounts front and rear, new upper and lower spring seats, front and rear strut tower reinforcements, rear bump stops and dust guards, a set of rear control arm reinforcements too. Then another WIIT....front drop links.









    Install began

    Old (no shit ;-)



    Getting this bolt out was a PITA



    "Tools" for the job....+ lots of PB Blaster





















    Another WIIT was RTAB's and I guess they were kinda needed





    I've seen a lot of pics of old worn RTABs but nothing like these. You couldn't distinguish rubber from metal and everything had sorta just turned to dust.

    But new poly is in there



    With everything buttoned up I went and had an alignment done, the mechanic gave some kudos for the work that I had done :-)



    So now it's ready for another season and a few more track days. First one coming up is in Sweden at Ring Knutstorp in May. Can't wait.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Last edited by KlausH79; 04-23-2016 at 07:48 AM.

  11. #36
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    Just got back from a little dash around some small back roads with my buddy and his 997 GT3.....the ride is transformed!! It's all been worth it.....now it just needs S54 power and an LSD...he he

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

  12. #37
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    Well I've been having some issues with a strange sound which sounded like it was coming from right in front of the drivers seat where the brake booster is located. Sounded like I had trapped Chewbacca in there. For a long time it would growl a bit when getting off the gas and it would never do it while I was out of the car looking in the engine bay(!) But lately it would do it all the time and last weekend also in the carport at home. So I tried poking around the engine bay to see if it was somthing that was resonating in the engine bay, but while doing that I discovered that maybe the sound was coming from behind the driver's seat underneath the car. OK, so I poked around under there...and then it started to sound like it was coming from under the passenger side rear seat. Fuel pump? So I Google "E46 fuel pump Chewbacca" (no shit) and an E46fanatics thread pops up with the exact same problem and says it's the fuel pump making that sound. OK so I order a new Mapco fuel pump (no matter what I probably have the original one in there with 180k miles on it so a new one wouldn't be all that bad regardless).

    Old vs new



    Installed it in 30 min, took it for a test drive and......Chewbacca is no more!! Awesome! That is one of the weirdest issues and fixes I have experienced yet. I wonder if the old fuel pump was on its last days or what, but anhoooo it's fixed....

    One thing that was a bit odd while installing was that I had like 2 cups of gasoline come out of the fuel line when I disconnected it from the pump. None of the DIY's I check out had that happen. I wonder why it happened to me...? The car had sat for an hour or so after coming home from work.....

    Biggest issue was getting the big ring that holds the fuel pump in place to stay put. It seemed like when I had threaded it a bit by hand and then tightened it up by tapping with a hammer I would knock it loose again. So I tightened by hand, a lot, and tapped it just a few times. Couldn't pry it off with a pry bar after that so I hope it's OK.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    Last edited by KlausH79; 05-01-2016 at 02:19 PM.

  13. #38
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    I've been struggling with an oil leak which has Soaked the bottom half of the engine in oil and caused it to drip. I've always thought it was the cause of an old oil pan gasket, but then when looking through YouTube for all kinds of DIY's (which is a daily event for me now) I saw some people say it could also be the oil filter housing gasket causing this leak. I had bought such a gasket a long time ago but never got round to swapping it, but if this could fix my leak I thought I'd get 'er done. I found a great DIY video by the 50sKid on YouTube https://youtu.be/zC_cmsX68Ok I watched it a few times and went at it. Only diff from the video to my car was that I don't have an idle pulley on the top bolt on the alternator, but that only made the swap easier I guess.

    The old gasket wasn't nearly as brittle as I had expected, but there was loads of oil running down from the OFH so it was def leaking so it'll probably take care of some of the problem.

    For future reference I would recommend these WIIT upgrades to this job; Oil seperator hose coming from valve cover (mine was in the way and making eerie cracking noises) and the Vanos oil line (mine was just a bit rusty and old and with everything out of the way it's really easy to get to).

    Pics



    All the stuff that needs to come out and all the tools.



    Bolts and old (left) vs new gasket


    I cleaned the area below the gasket from oil....I'm not good at "before" pics....too eager....







    New gasket in



    Again thanks to the 50sKid for the video.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    Last edited by KlausH79; 05-09-2016 at 01:52 AM. Reason: Wrong info

  14. #39
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    Alright! Sunday was a good day. Started like this


    Second trackday for the little Beemer! This time a lot closer as it was I Sweden. Just a 2 hour drive from home. Went there with my brother in his Elise and my buddy from high school in his GT3.



    Awesome day, sunny and perfect conditions.

    The Compact rode really well. It was of course my first time at Ring Knutstorp so the morning sessions were spent getting to know the track and learning the line. I had an instructor for my very first laps which was nice because he could tell me all the do's and don'ts and show me the right line from the get go. It's a fun and tricky little track with a lot of ups and downs, camber changes here and there, banks and a few blind corners. Near perfect for the Compact.

    The day went with almost no hitches, mechanically speaking although I did have to tighten the retaining ring on the fuel pump as it had popped off on the way up there (!). Also the power steering reservoir is leaking from the cap but a quit Jerry rig with a rag and a zip tie made sure the fluid didn't run all over the place



    Not much came out after I placed the rag there.

    The event also included the conclusion of a vote going on in DK and Sweden about the trackday car of the year as they announced the winner at the event. The BMW M2 won and BMW had brought one to have ride alongs in. Damn that little thing is fast. So planted and controlled. And the brakes! Man....one can only dream......

    I also got a few ride alongs in the GT3 and that thing is just other worldly! Just so ferociously fast yet still extremely composed throughout everything it does and you can just feel it is at home on a track.

    When my brother tried the Compact I took his Elise out for a few laps. That is a different experience all together. Very analog, you can feel everything that is going on and quite fun to drive, but also quite demanding on your biceps with that teeny tiny steering wheel and no assist. Getting back in the Compact felt like driving a big ol' bus with its huge assisted roundel.....

    So all in all a really great day!

    I did however notice one thing on the way home. An ever so noticeable klunk from the front when pulling away from a standstill. So When I got back I popped the hood to have a look around and noticed that the left front top mount looked a bit odd and also the plastic cap was missing.

    Can anyone let me know if this looks normal or not? And can this be the source of the klunk?

    Left (it looks a bit squished and the "wrinkle" all the way round the middle isn't really on the right side)


    Right


    Well, any input is welcomed



    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

  15. #40
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    I have now been looking into my cluncking sound from the right front wheel and since I noticed the squished top mount which just looked odd to me I went ahead and investigated a bit. I took the whole strut assembly out to check if there were other things that could be causing the cluncking sound, but I re-torqued all the nut and bolts and nothing was loose on that side. I then took a look at the left front and it turned out the nut on the strut for the drop link had backed out a quarter turn and was knocking a bit. So I torqued it down, test drove it, but there was still a cluncking sound from the right. So I bought a new top mount. I did contact Febi Bilstein to see if they would do anything about it but they were very negative and unwilling to offer any sort of help, so I went along and ordered a Lemförder mount (no more Febi parts for me with that shitty customer service response) and I must say, although I thought Febi were an OK OEM supplier the Lemförder part is just a much nicer piece. It just seems more high quality and also it comes with the bearing greased and ready to install. Very nice.

    Here are a few side by side pics




    So I installed it without a hitch and now all cluncking is gone. The Febi part does look a bit beaten up (after 500 miles and 1 trackday), so I think I'll send it to them to see what they say.

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    Last edited by KlausH79; 06-13-2016 at 02:37 PM.

  16. #41
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    So I had some faint brake squeal for a few days and then the brake pad wear warning light came on. The Yellowstuff pads on the left side were gone. On the right side there was still a little pad left so I have some uneven pad wear between left and right. I looked into getting some Hawk HP Plus pads but they are very hard to come by over here and during my search I was told I should look into Bluestuff NDX pads by a guy who does brakes around the Nürburgring. I found a really cheap set at Schmiedmann and threw in some "new" side mirrors as those "M3" mirrors are absolutely horrendous both to look at and use.

    Did the brake pad swap in about 30 min per wheel including jacking it up and stuff.

    Pics

    Left side





    Also installed some brass caliper guides which can maybe take care if the uneven pad wear there was on the inner pads.



    Right side







    Bedded them in and they feel great so far! Can't wait to take them in track.

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  17. #42
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    Hi, I've always had more wear on the left side of both my 325ti and my 328ci E46, can't explain why.
    I tried every EBC pads, they all wear quite quickly, and I felt no difference between the yellow and the blue.
    I tried several pads from various manufacturers, the only solution I found is Pagid RS29 on the front, and you can put RS 4.2 on the rear. They are expensive, but last at least 5 times longer than the EBC

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulmi View Post
    Hi, I've always had more wear on the left side of both my 325ti and my 328ci E46, can't explain why.
    I tried every EBC pads, they all wear quite quickly, and I felt no difference between the yellow and the blue.
    I tried several pads from various manufacturers, the only solution I found is Pagid RS29 on the front, and you can put RS 4.2 on the rear. They are expensive, but last at least 5 times longer than the EBC
    Very strange with the left to right pad wear difference, but good to hear it's not only me experiencing this.
    Thanks for the heads up on the Pagid pads....😊 Are the RS29's ok for street use? I use the car as a daily during the summer months....

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    Last edited by KlausH79; 08-12-2016 at 05:15 PM.

  19. #44
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    Well I had a small issue with my front control arm bushings....



    Turns out the amateur mechanic who did the install (yours truly) turned them the wrong way in the bracket so the middle part got pushed out. Luckily it hadn't fallen far as it was sitting on the aluminum brace right behind the bracket.

    So I went over to a friend's house who has a lift and rectified my wrong and while it being up there I noticed this





    And this



    Two completely chewed up UUC transmission mounts and a cracked flex disc. Great! These were all new when I had my transmission replaced right when I got the car so they have a bout 3500 miles on them including 2 track days.

    Well of to the internet to find new parts 😁

    Does anyone have any recommendations to transmission mounts? How about solid UHMW mounts from Condor Speed Shop?

    https://www.condorspeedshop.com/coll...-e36-e46-z3-z4

    Anyone have any experience with these?


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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by KlausH79 View Post
    Well I had a small issue with my front control arm bushings....


    Does anyone have any recommendations to transmission mounts? How about solid UHMW mounts from Condor Speed Shop?

    https://www.condorspeedshop.com/coll...-e36-e46-z3-z4

    Anyone have any experience with these?


    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    I have Condor on my track car and have nothing but good things to say about them. I know a few guys in the drift circuit who are sponsored by Condor. Really good stuff and everything is lifetime warranty. If one goes out, I've heard they will ship another at no charge same day.

    They stand by their product and have nothing but good reviews here in the US.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjwilson89 View Post
    I have Condor on my track car and have nothing but good things to say about them. I know a few guys in the drift circuit who are sponsored by Condor. Really good stuff and everything is lifetime warranty. If one goes out, I've heard they will ship another at no charge same day.

    They stand by their product and have nothing but good reviews here in the US.
    OK, but how are they when it comes to NVH? I've read about some people claiming that solid mounts can make a lot of noise and even vibrate so much that other bolts and stuff come undone. Hence I started looking at Revshift engine and transmission mounts. They also seem to be pretty good both product wise and support/service wise.

    I still use my car as a daily during summer but I'm OK with some added NVH but I don't want to have stuff rattling off the car and other stuff breaking because of solid mounts.

    Do you have any links to condor reviews? I can't really find any good or bad....

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  22. #47
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    Hi, I use these: http://www.driftshop.com/road-engine...e46-z3-z4.html and have nothing against them. They're really good stuff

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulmi View Post
    Hi, I use these: http://www.driftshop.com/road-engine...e46-z3-z4.html and have nothing against them. They're really good stuff
    Uh! Thanks Ulmi! Very good Find. They look pretty darn good. Good price too! I'll look more into these guys! Thanks!

    Btw: i noticed they also have a Competition kit with harder poly in them. Do you feel the Road type is good enough for track day tracking? Or should I just go for the Competition pack?

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    Last edited by KlausH79; 09-23-2016 at 03:04 AM.

  24. #49
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    Very nice. I see your Save the Ring sticker. When do you think you'll make it to the Green Hell? It is beyond fun.
    • 1995 320i M52B20 Powerflex Front LCAB's, ECS 5mm wheel spacers on the front, Kosei 17x8.5 wheels, 225/45/17 Sumitomo HTRZ3 Tires, FK Streetline-X Coilovers

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearbox88m View Post
    Very nice. I see your Save the Ring sticker. When do you think you'll make it to the Green Hell? It is beyond fun.
    Thanks! I've been to the Ring many times, but not in the Compact yet. My latest trip to the Ring was in June for a BMW Fascination Driving Experience. That was utterly amazing! You are handed an M2 (or M3 or M4 if you like) for two full days where they divide the track into 10 sections that you blast back and forth all day and at the end of each day you do full laps. Everything happens in groups of 4 cars behind an instructor who gives instructions over the radio and all you need to do is hang on to the bumper in front and let's just say that you're not moseying around looking at the sites. Its fast....very fast. We did 240-250 kph over Schwedenkreutz....which I think is pretty fast.

    This is my final lap.

    https://youtu.be/gsresjH-Bgo

    This Friday I fly with my brother to Mugello in Italy for another BMW Driving Experience which is hopefully going to be just as awesome!

    Hopefully next year is the year where the Compact conquers the Green Hell 😎

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    Last edited by KlausH79; 10-24-2016 at 11:41 AM.

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