Hi there
So here goes. I’ve been on many different forums for a while now and been soaking up a lot of info. Ive been wanting to do a track day build for a long time and now it has begun. Although a bit unusual. It's a Compact and an E46 at that. I'm in Denmark where it was available unlike the US. Only 11 325ti's were brought to Denmark so it's quite rare and making it into a track day car even more so.
So here it is
It's a 2001, 325, 289kkm (180k Miles), most services kept (the last one was done at an non authorized mechanic), very clean all original apart from the M3 mirrors (ugh), and 2003 rear lights.
Plan is to keep it road legal as this is required for many track days here in Denmark and I also want to take it to the Ring on occasion.
Plans are:
Full service
UUC SSK with DSSR (done)
UUC tranny mounts (done)
CDV removal (done)
M3 engine mounts (done)
Brake caliper rebuild all around (done)
ATE Power discs all around (done)
Yellow Stuff pads all around (done)
Brake cooling ducts
StopTech SS brake lines (done)
Complete strip of the interior
Edit: Sparco Evo III seats (one done)
Sparco 6-point harness's (one done)
Bolt in cage
Bilstein B12 Sportline suspension with all new additional hardware (done)
H&R ARB front and rear
Eibach Pro Alignment rear camber arms
Yokohama AD08 tires (done)
K&N box filter (done)
Fluid upgrade (done)
Front and rear bearings and hubs
Edit
All done:
Items that have come up after the fact:
Water pump
Metal water pump pully
AC and serpentine belts
New radiator and hoses
Valve cover gasket
Spark plugs
VANOS seals
Front Control Arms
FCAB's
RTAB's
Trailing arm bearings (upper and lower positions)
Tierods (inner and outer)
Parking brake hardware
Oil filter housing gasket
More could be added. If you have any suggestions please let me know.
As I am not a mechanic in any way I hope I can post some questions in this thread to get some pointers on what to do if I can't find it elsewhere, so please be gentle when nooB questions arise I want to learn more about cars and how they work so it's a learning project as well. Forums and Youtube are invaluable for a guy like me.
Here are some pics of progress so far (going very slowly with two kids and the car being stashed at my parents' place 30 miles away).
(After this photo it's on jack stands in the back too)
Looking forward to updating
Klaus
Last edited by KlausH79; 06-20-2019 at 02:48 AM.
Very nice, Klaus...welcome to the forum!
"Asphalt is evil, it must be punished!"
'89 Z1 Dream Black/Alcantara/Camo, Racing Dynamics, the coolest doors known to man -- Sunny days & Sundays
'90 Z1 Red w/custom red/black French leather, Ground Control coil overs, BBS RV-F --Mais Oui!
'91 850i Mauritius Blue/Black --1 of 179
'85 M635CSi Alpine -- "Explosive!!!"
'03 M3 Conv, Imola w/ SMG -- her daily driver
'17 “30 Jahre” M3, Macao Blue -- 1/500 made
Previously owned: 74 2002 (x2), 85 325e, 80 323i Baur, 94 325iC, 03 325CiC, 80 633CSi, 90 325iC, 98 318ti (Budget M3), 01 X5, 02 X5 4.6is (x2), 94 M3, 98 M3/4, 16 340i
EDIT: I just realized that I didn't really explain why I got a new (used) gearbox in the thing.
When I bought the car it was jumping out of third and the seller said he'd been told it just needed some adjustment so it should be fine. Of course I got worried and was very hesitant on buying it but since these cars are very rare in Denmark especially at this price, I went for it. Also because I found out that a used 'box was fairly inexpensive. So I went ahead and got it and what do you know....it was not a simple adjustment. I took it to a local gearbox specialist who said it needed a major repair which would cost me half of what I paid for the car. So off to the internet where I found a 60k miles box in Sweden for cheap which was shipped the day after.
-----------------
A few pics of what's been done:
UUC SSK with DSSR on the "new" gearbox. Install with the 'box on the work bench was a breeze and the feel of the parts is amazing. Can't wait to actually drive the thing:
Ready for install at the local shop. Now with Blue UUC tranny mounts:
While installing it I noticed the Delrin bushing for the shifter arm was round but the hole was oval. The shop that installed the 'box took the bushing from the old 'box and put in it's place since I didn't have time to get the right one from UUC. I hope that's going to be ok.
Interior coming out:
It is amazing how much crap is in one of these things, and this is just the rear seats:
Brake caliper restoration is ongoing. I'll update when I've gotten a bit more grinding and polishing done
Last edited by KlausH79; 05-30-2014 at 01:47 AM. Reason: New gearbox update was missing
Very interesting build, I don't think I have seen one of these built for track so its nice to see someone bold enough to go against the grain. Please keep us updated on the build
update:
Just found this photo, I thought I would share / inspire you on your build.
E46CompactGTR_zps7c01a6a8.jpg
Last edited by stealthbeam; 12-06-2013 at 07:15 PM.
1996 328i (m52B28US) OBD1 euro ZF 5spd. 3.23LSD conversion / Chem. PnP Head/ DINAN stg.2 CHIP/ VAC race valves/ S52 cams/ A/C delete/ fan delete/ Washer Fluid resv delete/ ARP head studs/ Cometic 140MLS / VAC Solid Engine/trans Mounts/ CAI / 2.5"Borla race exahaust/ NGK R spark plugs, M50 Mani, S50 Oil Res, Riot Racing HFTB, SAMCO Hoses, JBR FW, X-Brace, Mtech Front Bumper, RE RSMs, stoptech SS lines, Bilstein sports, H&R Race Springs, S52 Reinforcement plates, Kosei K1 w/ bridgestone RE960as, Brembo/stoptech slotted rotors, M3 Trailing arms, M3 Calipers, M3 Axles, ACS strut brace, weight reduction.
http://mbuild.blogspot.com/
Like the build, there are quite a few of them (compacts) raced and rallied in the UK. I understand most of the regular E36 bits fit? I went to school in Sonderborg!
Hey
so I'm slowly getting stuff done and I'm hoping Xmas will bring some part from under the tree
Not that I need more things on my to do list but could you be ever so kind and let me know what sort of things I need to do in order to give it a full service? The car has done 180k miles and has a full service book.
The following is on my list and I have the parts:
New serpentine and a/c belts
Engine oil and filter
Diff oil
Valve cover gasket
Thanks in advance
Last edited by KlausH79; 12-29-2013 at 04:40 PM.
Bump......
Last edited by KlausH79; 01-31-2014 at 03:35 AM.
Ok so things are moving VERY slowly at the moment. However I have managed to get almost all of the brake caliper work done. A lot of grinding, polishing and painting. I did however screw up one rear caliper as I broke the bleeder screw and made a total mess of it trying to get it out. That prompted me to buy a set of used calipers and what do you know!!? Broke that one too!!! I hope a guy from work can help me out otherwise I'm buying a refurb'ed one next. Since I haven't managed to get much time to actually work on the damn thing I have been buying a lot of parts for it and I have the 'spec' pretty much down so not much research needed anymore which is nice.
A few pics
Caliper before
During
New pistons were needed all round
After with EBC Yellows and ATE Powerdiscs
Very important STR livery
When all four brakes are done the next thing is engine mounts, serpentine and A/C belts, water pump, valve cover gasket, VANOS seals and fluid change......just need to find the time.
Also bought parts for brake cooling ducts, but I thought I should try out the car with the current setup a few times and then see what difference it makes.
Last edited by KlausH79; 03-06-2014 at 01:46 PM.
OK brakes are all done.....finally....
Bled the brakes. As with many things in this project this was a first for me, and wow that was easy with the Power Bleeder I bought!
Just hooked it up and pumped it up
Put a hose on the bleed screw and into a receptical
And opened up the screw....all alone.
Now I just hope they work 😄
Last edited by KlausH79; 04-17-2014 at 01:15 PM.
I've found one other guy on the forums doing an E46 compact build and one German guy with a bunch of YouTube videos on the Ring. Blitziworld, you should check out his Ring lapping skills....
The car in the photo looks very cool but it is a ways away from where I'm going 😄
Last edited by KlausH79; 04-25-2014 at 04:33 AM.
Ok, so a lot of progress (for a guy like me) was done yesterday. I set out to just change the engine mounts but also managed to change the water pump and serpentine and ac belts. Wahuu!!!
Pics to prove it :-)
Had to build an engine brace and it worked like a charm!
Got the first mount out and made a comparison. New M3 OEM mount on the left.
Installed
People say the passenger side mount is the easiest, but it wasn't for me. Easy to get it out but a pain to get back in. On the drivers side I did however run into a small snafu called the steering column when getting the mount out.....
But a little more lifting and swearing and it came out and much to my surprise the new one slid right in. Bonus!
As I spent less than 2 hours doing the mounts including building the brace and swearing and grunting under the car I had plenty of time to do the water pump and belts.
Before
After
New vs old (new is Graff with metal impeller)
I have no prerequisite to determine water pump quality, but I'm not particularly impressed by the Graff impeller. Seems like small pieces of thin sheet metal welded together....
Together with the Graff pump I replaced the plastic pully with a metal piece from Üro. Seems like good quality and I like replacing plastic with metal, but my old pully was in perfect condition so it might have been over kill. I did notice that the Üro pully felt slightly heavier than the original. Fit was perfect.
I know this thread is not the go-to place for DIY advice, but I did do one thing that I've not seen anywhere in any DIY's so far (I'm not saying it's a KH invention). As I was working so close to the radiator I thought it best to somehow protect it as it's a real tight space to work in, especially when pulling the pump pully and pump out of the engine block. Simple but efficient and HIGHLY needed as I bumped into it a lot!
Card board in front of the radiator worked a charm.
One thing I noticed when putting everything back together was this....
EDIT: I found the right term for this, bowing or bowed. Made searching a lot easier. Will be looking into a new radiator soon....
Radiator seems to be on its last days. I think. Can anyone say what's caused this? It's just the bottom 2-3 inches that have kind of bottomed out. Everything above that is straight.
Nothing is leaking as far as I know. I have begun the search for a new OEM piece and found an AVA radiator at a good price. Anyone got experience with AVA rads?
All things considered I have to say that these two jobs were not nearly as complicated as I thought (reading a few DIY's four or five times each helped of course). For the engine mounts I am very happy that I built the brace as lifting the engine off the oil pan would've made me quiver. Contrary to the gist I got from some DIY's I did not only have to support the engine and at most take the pressure off the mounts I had to lift the engine over the two studs on the mount, at least 5 cm if not more. So in my mind you need a brace, but this took about 45 min to make from scrap parts.
As for the belt replacement I think that would take about 15 min from opening the hood to closing it again for even a total dud like me. Too easy.
Water pump also no problem at all but I do regret not placing a big bucket underneath as I did not expect the HUGE gush of coolant when pulling out the pump with the result of a big stain on the floor....oups....this was solely caused by me being too eager about the coolant drain and therefore failed to revisit the DIY's before starting so I failed to turn on the AC part when draining so it was still quite full.....what can I say....rookie mistake....all it meant was a lot if cleaning which is fine.
One thing I noticed under the car looking at the oil pan was this
Is this what it looks like when you need a new oil pan gasket???
Have valve cover gasket, spark plugs, and VANOS seals to go, but I want to drive this thing and I can do that when it's on the ground and I don't even know if it's needed yet so that'll have to wait. So next weekend it's an oil change (engine and diff) and refilling the coolant and getting the wheels back on!!!! Yeah!!! Ahr shit just remembered that I forgot to put a charger on the battery! Oh well, let's see what happens....
Can't wait until Friday
Last edited by KlausH79; 05-15-2014 at 01:01 AM.
Looks very clean man. Thats a good engine brace, good form
Alright. Finishing touches before getting it back on the ground.
Basic stuff, diff and engine oil change, refill coolant, reinstall the brace (after a real good clean) and under tray wash the wheels......and oh yeah.....charge the battery! 😄
Pics
The ol' sludge
New K&N filter
Castrol 0W-30 gone in (I guess Castrol is OK for BMW as says the cap)
New magnetic plug went in too, no pic
Drained the diff and the oil looked nicely Amber and clear, but my God the stench!
Final drips
Castrol gone in
Overfilled with coolant so I turned to an unusual source to get it out again. It worked but took a while
A good scrubbing was needed indeed
And BAM she has wheels again
So hooked up the battery and started it up and it was like I had been driving it yesterday, first turn. Everything was ticking and running smoothly, but then I noticed something....oil coming from the nut on the oil filter housing cap!!! Damnit! I had used a big a** wrench to tighten it and then over tightened it so it cracked.....dumb dumb dumb. Again eagerness took the best of me. If I had only waited till the next day I could've borrowed the neighbors 36 socket. And tightened it down with a torque wrench! Oh well then I had to order a new one which was only $23 and into the basket slipped a new radiator, hoses and expansion tank....
Now it's time to get it back on the ground, and to be honest I don't remember just how I got it up there in the first place.....😁 what goes up must come down....right 😜
Last edited by KlausH79; 05-18-2014 at 03:46 AM.
It came down....😄
Very interesting example of an E46. Sub'd!
BMW 1995 E36 M3 Luxury Pkg. (Bostongruen Metallic 275)
BMW 1999 E36 323is Sport Pkg. (Orientblau Metallic 317)
iSociety
Alright, got the "new" oil filter housing cap in from ebay and installed it. Took it for a spin to check everything was in working order and it purrs like a kitten and everything is in check. Brakes need bedding in but initial testing show that they work which is REALLY nice to know now that they have been torn completely apart and reassembled by a complete amateur. This was the first time I got to drive it since I put it in the garage in November and started taking stuff apart. I wasn't really loving the UUC SSK as it didn't seem very taunt nor did it seem more direct than any other shifter I've tried (bar my daily driven Hyundai Getz....yeah that's right....Getz). Then I installed this:
BMW Performance alcantara shift knob and boot. It's approx 1 inch shorter than the old one and makes a huge difference. I know it's probably a nooB thing to say but that made a big difference and it somehow feels a lot tighter and not like a big ol' CJ7 shifter.
Also this arrived
New AVA radiator, expansion tank and coolant hoses. I'll have these ready at the first signs of any cooling parts issues now having discovered the bowed radiator.
Next up is getting an MOT and getting tags on it but I've run out of funds and here in DK it will cost me $1100 to get it on the road with 6 months Tax and insurance......!!!
Last edited by KlausH79; 06-20-2014 at 03:20 PM. Reason: didnt include tax in the "get it on the road" cost!
Ok so now it's been a bit still for while but I've now bought a seat for it which is the first visual cue that this is going to be track driven. I went for a Sparco EVO II as this was the only one that actually fit me.
(Fits my youngest son too :-)
However trying to install the thing is a proving a right pita. I installed the Sparco side mounts and they're not even close to square actually the rear is 2 inches narrower than the front!!
So I tried to put in some spacers and this is what's needed in each side.
Doesn't seem right. Do I have the wrong side mounts? The thing is though that Sparco doesn't make one that's more "flexible" with the hole pattern or anything.
Squaring the whole thing up uncovers another thing and that is that the Sparco slider is too narrow, but that can be dealt with by bending a new tube for the handle. Again Sparco only has one size slider....do large people with large seats not use sliders??? With all the info there is regarding installing anything and everything in a car these days it's amazing how little info there is on mounting a seat, also from the manufacturer, but they're Italian so that's to be expected. Might be because it's pretty darn simple, it's proving the most difficult thing I've done so far.....
Last edited by KlausH79; 12-23-2014 at 03:56 AM.
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I've never seen anyone mount seats using only the side mounts. Other than custom mounts, most I've seen use floor mounts and side mounts. I had Sparco EvoL (same as Evo2) in my e36m3. I used VAC floor mounts and Momo side mounts. I don't recall there being as much of an angle, front to rear, as yours seems to have but I believe the mounts would allow you to accommodate for that. I actually had to do some custom drilling/elongating of holes on my side mounts. The side mounts bolt to the floor mounts and then the floor mounts bolt to the factory locations. The seats are added last.
seat mount 1.JPGseat mount 2.JPGseat mount 3.JPG
Jay
From wannabe to has been in a few short years..... the older I get, the faster I was
Hey Jay
Thanks for the reply and advice. I was planning on making my own mounting bracket to mount the side mounts onto, but the whole alignment thing was just too crazy, so I bought a set of brackets from a German place called Pleie Motorsport. Nice E46 specific pieces in 3 mm steel with a nice powder coated finish. This will hopefully ease the alignment part of the install.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419605592.692060.jpg
Regarding the "misalignment" of the side mounts I went to the dealer, Lindebjerg Racing, and he confirmed that the Evo II is one of the few seats which is different widths front to back.....great! One of the guys working there had installed many Evo II's, latest in his 911, and he said to use the spacers or do some modification to the other parts to make it fit.
Therefore I went to a guy from work who fabricated some solid aluminum spacers for me.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419605022.136733.jpg
Very nice
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419605151.430269.jpg
So next time I get to work on it I have the spacers as an option if I can't get things ligned up without them.
Last edited by KlausH79; 12-26-2014 at 09:58 AM.
I don't recall my seats being that way but it was several years ago. Bought the seats in '04-05, sold the car in '09. I'd be a little uncomfortable using spacers like that and never the washers. I'd be more inclined to make a seat bracket that followed the contour of the seat bottom. I wouldn't want there to be any unusual loads placed on the seat anchors in a crash. You never think how critical that could be until it happens. Ask me how I know. I had a crash with complete barrel roll. No equipment failures except suspension bits.
Jay
From wannabe to has been in a few short years..... the older I get, the faster I was
Yeah, that's why I was reluctant to use the spacers. I had the solid alu bits made before I spoke to the dealer....I was actually just asking if it would be possible to have them made and the guy said "if you want them I'll have to make 'em right now" so I let him loose
I'll try to get the seat mounted without them first.....
Thanks for caring ️
Not much I can brag about in this build with the amazing things being built by everyone, but I can say that I'm probably the only one who has his build in the Danish car mag Bil Magasinet
It'll be there next month too
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