For reference, the clutch pedal return spring in my '96 328i has parts 10, 11, and 13 in this diagram.
#13 sits in a groove in the bracket that's not numbered in that diagram (upper right). When I depress the pedal, the spring compresses normally for about 1/3 of the pedal travel. As the spring compresses further and the assembly continues to rotate, the plastic pin (#10) deforms. It's too long for the distance between the groove and the lower mount (#s 8 & 9) and looks like it might snap. The plastic pin looks like the right length when the pedal is at rest, but after pressing the pedal it seems like it's 5mm too long.
Also, that deformation pushes the pedal off to the left, so it just barely hits the clutch stop. (The stop is aftermarket and sits higher--the pedal would shift WAY left of the stock stop.)
I've already put in delrin bushings, so this isn't the typical bushing slop.
This post claims that there are several grooves in the bracket that allow adjustment of the spring. When I try a different groove, I no longer get the deformation--but now the pedal will snap all the way to the stop after about 60% of the travel. I have to pull the pedal back up with my foot. That's not something I want to do.
Can anyone help me figure out what's going on here?
So I have a pedal assembly out of the car and I just looked at it. I don't see different grooves that allow you to adjust the spring. Yes there is another notch a little higher up that you might get it to sit in, but I don't think it would hold securely since the pedal bracket will only support one side. This makes me wonder if that's the one you have it sitting in?
This thread has a pic of that spring assembly so see if yours matches that. If you need me to take any pics of mine let me know.
Jeff | '94 BMW Alpina B3 | '06 BMW 325XI Wagon
There aren't any adjustments for that assembly. It is insane how simple that assembly is and how much frustration it can create. All I can tell you is if its not working correctly it's not installed correctly. Sorry not to be more help. It's just one of those things that either snaps instantly into place or not. Keep trying until you get it
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Put spring in vise, squeeze it and tie with zip ties. Pop spring in its home and cut zip ties.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
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DOH! Yes I did intend to link to this thread which has a picture of the pedal assembly: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...how-does-it-go
Here are a few pictures I took of mine.
Side view:
I suspect yours is in position 2 instead of 1?
Rotated view:
Circled part indicates there's only support on ONE side if you put it in position 2, which is why I think it's wrong. I could see this causing some rotating / binding of part 10.
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By the way, I'm saying I think it's wrong rather than I know it's wrong, because I took apart that whole pedal assembly and just naively put it back together.
It does look like it's assembled the same way as the one Moron95M3 posted in the other thread though. Good if someone can confirm it's correct.
Jeff | '94 BMW Alpina B3 | '06 BMW 325XI Wagon
Yes so I had it in position 2 when I was getting the binding/bending.
And I definitely agree it should not be there--as you point out, both parts of the upper spring perch aren't supported.
But I've also tried position 1, and that's when the spring makes the pedal act like a switch. After only a little pushing,
the spring begins to expand again and pops the pedal to the floor. The only way for me to release the clutch, then,
is to pull the pedal back up with my toe. I actually have to overcome spring pressure to bring the pedal back up. That's
definitely not how it functioned before and, I'm assuming, not how it should function.
Here's a video showing that behavior: http://youtu.be/2aoytqS1fFM
(the first frame shows the correct installation of the spring assembly)
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Thanks but my problem isn't manipulating the spring.
And there's actually a much easier way to manipulate it than with zip ties. That's what I tried first.
What I'm having trouble with is the pedal behavior (now that I've got the spring in the right place, thanks to jrsmitchell).
OK, glad we got the spring sorted.
In that case it looks like you've got a clutch hydraulic problem. Either air in the system or a failed clutch cylinder. Have you made any changes recently? Checked for fluid leakage around the master or slave?
Jeff | '94 BMW Alpina B3 | '06 BMW 325XI Wagon
You're welcome. Post back if you get it solved.
Jeff | '94 BMW Alpina B3 | '06 BMW 325XI Wagon
Sorry to revive a very very old thread..... BUT do you not have part number 12? The spring clip? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=35_0254
doing my master cylinder and cant figure out how that clip goes on
96 328is turbo. Built 3.2, 6266, RSI Manifold
Ha, I'm just now in the same boat....took my pedal assembly apart and not sure where part #12 for me went....looked on ECS and it says the part is no longer available....does it mount on top of 13 or underneath?
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
The diagram shows both older an later type setup. That's why you can't find the old I guess.
I replaced my pedal + pedal bushings (with teflon aftermarket) and it did nothing at all. Still a pedal listed to the left. The way the spring is off-center does this.
I thought my OEM bushings were toast, only to find out that they are designed with that slid in them, which makes it look like they are ripped.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
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And why the hell would a parts engineer make the part look like the correct spot to mount a pivoting part, is NOT the right spot and put it next to the right spot...is that notch really necessary there?
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Hello everyone, just recently had my pedal break at the master pivot point. I replaced the pedal, then the master cylinder. Now I am also stuck on the metal clip. Ive seen conflicting diagrams of the setup. Some say it goes on top of the perch, others say it goes under. Or obviously does not go under. However I am having trouble placing it in position 1 without the spring binding and eventually going all the way in. The system is still empty of fluid so there is no pressure. Will filling it up and bleeding help installing this spring?
Someone PLEASE help! Driving myself crazy over here...
Also WTH were the engineers thinking making the most used pedal assembly out of plastic? Idiots.
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