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Thread: Rear license plate screw hole stripped

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    80
    My Cars
    M Roadster

    Question Rear license plate screw hole stripped

    Unfortunately, the plastic part that the screw threads into looks like it is part of the rear hatch assembly. Does anyone know how to get to this part to remove/replace it. How about another fix that might work?

    FWIW, I'm trying to retain the use of the original screws that came with my chrome license plate frame, since they have matching plastic retainers that are covered with fitting chrome caps. TIA.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    4,671
    My Cars
    M Roadster
    Welcome to bf.c. :

    Mine aren't far from stripped. I'd probably do a little "engineering" on it.

    98 ///M Roadster - Sharked, FDK, twin Magnaflows, UUC Stage II Flywheel, OEM M5 Clutch, UUC TME Red & Enforcers, Zimmerman rotors, Cosmos CAI, ProjectorZs w DDE, 6K HIDs, fatter rubber on the corners, UUC Underdrive Pulleys, and Stewart High Performance water pump


  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Salisbury NC
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    323iT
    I've seen a few questions very similar to this, and no truly good answer. So here goes my results: The black license plate adapter bracket is plastic with what appears to be brass inserts. This insert has stripped in the plastic because the steel screw has corroded, in part due to interaction with a dissimilar metal (the brass). The insert and screw are likely a total loss, so go ahead and spin them using your electric screwdriver. This will separate them from the bracket, create a nicely round hole and allow you to remove it by carefully prying up the outer edges of the plate until the plate pops free. Be careful, but persistent. The good news is that the insert should come through the hole in your license plate so you don't have to cut it off. If you're like me, you did all this at some odd hour and way too far from the dealership. Sure, it costs only $20 or so, but you're in a pinch. So here's what I did to get back on the road. The Hillman items come from Lowes, so you can get them on a Sunday evening if you need to... :-) It's a pretty quick repair. The hardest part was figuring out how to fix it.

    Two packs of Hillman brand 1/4" threaded post (aluminum) with screws
    One pack of Hillman brand nylon 8-32x1 nylon machine screws (no, they aren't black, but they don't corrode either, and they are easy to trim to fit)
    One pack of HIllman brand nylon #8 washers
    Epoxy glue
    8/32 tap
    Nitrile gloves

    The epoxy gets messy so wear gloves just in case.
    Clean the adapter bracket so the epoxy will stick.
    Test fit the t-posts to see how well they center-up in the hole. You will not need the aluminum screws included in the packet.
    Mix the epoxy per directions.
    When stirring is complete, use your stirring stick to dab the epoxy on the shaft and underside of the t-post
    Don't get too much epoxy on the t-post, but enough to help fill the hole in the plastic license plate adapter and to cover the shoulder of thet-post.
    Insert the t-post from the BACK SIDE of the license plate adapter. This allows the shoulder of the t-post to take the stress from tightening the screw and not pull out like the previous ones did.
    You may want to run the nylon screws from the back side to help maneuver the t-post insert
    Make sure the t-post is centered in the hole.
    Place the adapter face down so the t-post won't slip off-center.
    When the epoxy has begun to harden (~10 minutes or less) remove the nylon machine screw so it doesn't get stuck in the hole.
    You are practically guaranteed to get glue in the threads. After the glue has completely cured, use the 8-32 tap to clean the thread holes.
    Assemble the plate, adapter bracket and license plate surround (if you have one).
    Use shears or toe nail clippers to trim the nylon screw flush with the surface of the t-post. This is important to prevent scratching paint and to ensure the adapter plate sits flat.
    Disassemble everything.
    Install the adapter plate on the car using the original sheet metal screws.
    Install the license plate (and surround, if used) with the nylon screws and washers. The washers help cover the hole in the license plate so the nylon screw heads won't pull through.
    Tighten the nylon screws snugly, but not too much. After all, they're plastic too!!
    Done.

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