It's not a money thing! It's the same issue that all the other Canadians are having.... no shipping to Canada! I can have almost anything else shipped here but these tools! I would much much rather have the tools and do it right..... Since there is a member here willing to buy and ship them to us I may be interested in that route
utah
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
This forum handles this weirdly, puts thumbnails for .pdfs, but it is a pdf and it's in here somewhere but it's easier to just repost.
Access to a small lathe?? These can be made double ended. Use a soft brass hammer or an aluminum cover machined to hit the shoulders.
Last edited by tjm3; 11-11-2017 at 10:18 AM.
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
yeah the top 3 are easy... i used a long 4'' wood screw and a small socket to use a small sliding hammer to remove the plugs, take a while but it works. you also need a small flat head screw driver, then round it on one side to help get the bushing out, this is manditory
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
mitch500...... have you done the reverse and 5th gear pins yet? Just wondering if you snapped some pic's or got measurement of the depth the bushing is set in?
Yes I completed it last weekend. I didn't take any pics as I grew a few grey hairs doing it and just wanted to get it done. Honestly I don't see how I would have done it with out the drift tools. Go to this site and look at the drawings for the tools you can get the measurement there.
http://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplass...hift_pins.html
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HI guys... Question.. I am doing my detents... I put the top 3 new bushings in before reading that the splits should be oriented left or right , not front or back.. Of course i put them all facing back.. Grrrrr is this a Huge issue ? Or what is the reason for them needing to be left right vs Front back..wondering what will happen if i just leave it.. Thanks. !
Sorry to bump an old thread but I need some help with my trans. I removed it to do a clutch and decided since it was out to go ahead and do my detents/pins. After receiving the parts I proceeded to replace them but noticed i was short on the 5th gear pin and the ones on top for 1/2, 3/4, 5/R, looked different so I didnt replace them in fear of having the wrong part. I did replace the one for reverse and the one next to it, NOT THE 5TH GEAR ONE. I did however score up the bore for the bushing on reverse but there were no knicks or ridges. I used the oe drifts to install it, and instead of waiting on parts I decided to put it back in the car.
Now I am unable to shift into 1/2 and reverse is extremely notchy. I can get into 3/4/5. Has anyone ran into this before? Does the orientation of the pin when installed matter? I honestly dont remember how I put it back in there as it was a couple weeks ago and I was quite flustered with the whole job.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to know if this is possible to fix it I removed all the pins/bushing again, or if I should just get a new trans.
Thank you
Detent Procedure HOWTO (with pics)
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
Yes I've found that write up after the fact, but it still doesn't explain to me why I can't select 1/2.
I mean, you probably should have put it in gear before putting it in the car first. As for why it's not going into gear currently can be figured out easily. Did it go into gear properly before you took it all apart? Did you install your clutch / flywheel / pressure plate correctly? If yes to these, then it's 100% something you did with the shift pins. As to say what that was / is could possibly be figured out by looking at it in person. It's hard to diagnose a self brought issue from here as it's not a normal occurance.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by Mklock; 06-16-2018 at 11:36 AM.
When I removed it from the vehicle it shifted into each gear just fine. Before reinstalling I thought I checked each gear by putting the linkage on and running it through but I can't remember. I believe my clutch/fw/PP were all installed correctly. I dont see how that would lock out 1st and 2nd gear.
If I installed the pin for reverse facing in the wrong direction could this happen? I dont remember the orientation of it as I did this a few weeks ago.
Doubtful, the detent pin and spring is just the resistance force for pushing it over left.
I get that and one of my symptoms is that it's extremely hard to push left to select reverse. When the selector sits in the middle and I move left for 1/2 I get immediate resistance. When I keep pushing and finally overcome the resistance then it flies over to reverse skipping 1/2.
I wish I'd known Thayer sells this kit (by the way, it's $95 now, which is still a great deal). I paid almost $300 to buy all those parts at the dealer. Pelican wanted as much, since they order them from BMW too.
Not the first time I've paid way too much for something because I didn't know where to get it cheaper. At least it will be cheaper the next time I have to do this.
Here's the link: https://www.thayermotorsports.com/co...vice-parts-kit
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I seem to have run into some trouble not mentioned before. The detent pin on top at the front refuses to come out of its hole. The other two lifted right out with a magnet. I tried using small needle nose pliers with out luck. It seems a ridge has formed in the case at the top of the pin's travel keeping it in. Has anyone else had this experience and if so what did you do? If not, any ideas? I am fresh out.
Drill into it, thread it, screw into the threads, and try to pull it out. I assume you have tried penetrating lube. Heat could also help - it would be the surrounding area you would try to expand not the detent.
Care to comment on the metal shavings that will create?
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Try running the shift shaft through all the gates. The small detents are for the fore and aft actions of the shifting system. I do this by attaching the entire shifter assembly and run through the gears. You stubborn detent may loosen up.
If it's just a ridge at the top you can remove it with a deburring tool with a straight blade. It's soft metal so almost anything sharp that'll fit in the bore should work - pocket knife, fish filet knife, half of a potato peeler, pencil with crocus cloth wrapped around, screwdriver ground down for slight tight fit, etc. The new pins should come with bushings that are supposed to be a tight fit in the bore so don't overdo it.
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