Messed up transmission detent installation

[bigjae1976]

You might want to check ECS tuning for the sponge part. The new rod joints have a rubber o-ring on the outside which eliminates the need for the washers for the selector rod. That will likely need periodic replacement too. I'd just buy the whole joint.

Thayer Motorsports sells the whole kit with new springs for $60ish. I see no reason to reuse the old springs.

The 5th and reverse pins have a bevel. There is a roller inside that slides up the bevel when you move the shifter left and right. See my earlier post, you'll have one hell of a time getting into 1/2 and 5 if you don't get those bevels aligned correctly.

I learned the hard way and took out the trans twice. If you twist the selector rod joint with the pins out, you'll see a roller slide into the hole and will make perfect sense.


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[scooper]

Yeah I did buy a new rod joint already but it doesn't mate to the dssr unless I grind off the rubber o-ring part which I don't want to do for now. So I reused the steel rod joint and bought a new sponge.

Any opinions/advice on the reverse and 5th gear springs? Re-use or replace? I had 5th gear flop/lean and when I removed the pin it seemed like there was some visible wear. No significant wear on the reverse pin. I do plan on replacing both pins. I've already replaced the 3 pins/springs on top for the other gears.

[glacket]

sorry for resurrecting this thread but i need some feedback. I am in the middle of refresh my zf320. during removal of the reverse gear bushing i scored the bore using the blind hole removal tool.I sanded the bore with 400 grit sand paper and I also plan on polishing it with a dremel. The edges of the bore do not appear to be damaged so the new seal cap should’nt leak and i will be inserting a new bushing into the bore. Do you think this scoring is a problem?

[bigjae1976]

sorry for resurrecting this thread but i need some feedback. I am in the middle of refresh my zf320. during removal of the reverse gear bushing i scored the bore using the blind hole removal tool.I sanded the bore with 400 grit sand paper and I also plan on polishing it with a dremel. The edges of the bore do not appear to be damaged so the new seal cap should’nt leak and i will be inserting a new bushing into the bore. Do you think this scoring is a problem?

Don't think it will leak because there's a cap. Just don't bugger up the seat where the cap sits.

IIRC, the normal oil level doesn't get that high.


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[snaponbob]

I stopped using a blind hole puller 8-10 gearboxes ago. The better method is taking a flat screwdriver to a grinder and reshaping the blade to resemble a curved wood chisel. I look for the seam in the old bushing and start lifting away the bushing along the seam. Eventually, working SLOWLY, one can use heavy duty needle nose pliers to pull out the sleeve. Easier on the ears, heart, and shoulders !!!!

[glacket]

did you use a modified screw driver for the shift selector detent pin that was posted on the m3forum earlier in this thread? i was thinking about doing that one as well but didnt want to damage anything else. Heres a picture of the scored bore.

IMG_20170924_212132.jpg

[glacket]

I got the reverse gear pin and spring back in making sure i faced it in the proper direction. It slide smoothly into the sleeve with no problem. Now i cant get the seal cap and ring back on. if i try to use a mallet with the drift pin, i damage the the drift pin and the edge of the transmission casing. I tried to push it in with force and that didnt work either. I also tried pushing down on the cap with my thumb while using the snap ring pliers to push the ring and cap to no avail. Any good method for installing the new seal rings?

[pandaboo911]

Remove bushing, wrap sand paper around the drift or any round shaft of similar diameter, sand out burrs and scoring, install new bushing.

[glacket]

Remove bushing, wrap sand paper around the drift or any round shaft of similar diameter, sand out burrs and scoring, install new bushing.

I installed the new bushing, new detent pin and spring properly already with the beveled edge of the pin facing towards the bottom of the transmission. I am now trying to press the new cap and snap ring into place and I am unable to do so. Is there a trick to it?

[bigjae1976]

IIRC, it was a PIA getting that cap back on.


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[glacket]

IIRC, it was a PIA getting that cap back on.


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How did you get it back in? a couple threads said to hammer it and, um no that's a bad idea or at least the way I was doing it.

[pandaboo911]

I installed the new bushing, new detent pin and spring properly already with the beveled edge of the pin facing towards the bottom of the transmission. I am now trying to press the new cap and snap ring into place and I am unable to do so. Is there a trick to it?

You kinda need 3 hands. 1 to hold the cap centered, one to push the cap down, and another to hammer. I used a socket with an extension on it that fit just over the cap,think it was 14mm. Don't hammer on it unless it's nicely seated in the bore.

Once you got it centered just tap it in gently, it shouldn't pop out, and you can push the retaining ring in.

I put some anaerobic sealant around the edges because the bore was scratched up around the cap but you may not need that.

Don't lube up the cap else it'll pop out before you can get the ring in.

Also the pin should slide freely with minimal resistance otherwise dont bother putting the cap on.

[bigjae1976]

How did you get it back in? a couple threads said to hammer it and, um no that's a bad idea or at least the way I was doing it.

I think I ended up reusing the old cap.


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[pbonsalb]

If the cap is popping out, get one side in and hold it while you get the car end of the circlip in the groove on that side. Then move to the other side and squeeze the circlip into the hole. Then tap the circlip down into the groove.

[glacket]

IMG_20170928_185811.jpg

IMG_20170928_185811.jpg

I found another thread where someone used a a quick grip clamp with a short 1/4 extension and 8mm socket. put the snap ring on the extension compress clamp until cap is seated and then press in the snap ring with snap rings pliers, nice and easy. next problem, i pulled the cap for the detent pin in the 3rd bore to the right of reverse and 5th. I was getting ready to pull the bushing and install new ones but i realized my drift set does not appear to have a drift tool for that job. I got the full drift tool kit. anyone know why they did not include the tool for that? In the link the guy had a custom one made specifically for that. Is there any other way do do this without have to ave someone make a drift tool for me?

[glacket]

Finally got the snap ring and cap installed. I found another thread where someone had used a quick grip clamp with a 1/4 in short extension with an 8mm socket. Place the ring on the extension, use the clamp with the extension to press the cap into the houseing, while pressed in, install the snap ring. done. Now im trying to do the 3rd bore detent pin mentioned earlier in this thread, however i didnt realize i would need a custom drift tool to reinstall, luckily i have not pulled the bushings out yet. Has anyone done the 3rd detent pin repair? what did you use to reinstall the bushings?

[ben4bama]

Finally got the snap ring and cap installed. I found another thread where someone had used a quick grip clamp with a 1/4 in short extension with an 8mm socket. Place the ring on the extension, use the clamp with the extension to press the cap into the houseing, while pressed in, install the snap ring. done. Now im trying to do the 3rd bore detent pin mentioned earlier in this thread, however i didnt realize i would need a custom drift tool to reinstall, luckily i have not pulled the bushings out yet. Has anyone done the 3rd detent pin repair? what did you use to reinstall the bushings?

Might have been me. Sounds exactly how I did it

[blckstrm]

I have a blind hole puller and the bushing would not budge with it. It was useful pulling the big pins that were a little stuck (just grabbing them using compression on the interior wall) but the bushing were a no go. There is not much of a lip to grab and trying to use compression on the interior walls did not work either. I was concerned that if the jaws of the blind hole puller were too tight trying to grab the lip, I'd do a lot more damage as I slide-hammered it out.

Did you manage to grab the bottom lip and pull the bushing out?

The blind hole puller did nothing for me either. I had to make a chisel out of a 20 penny nail and split the seam.

I think if you de-burr the hole and reinstall you'll be just fine.

[blckstrm]

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Finally got the snap ring and cap installed. I found another thread where someone had used a quick grip clamp with a 1/4 in short extension with an 8mm socket. Place the ring on the extension, use the clamp with the extension to press the cap into the houseing, while pressed in, install the snap ring. done. Now im trying to do the 3rd bore detent pin mentioned earlier in this thread, however i didnt realize i would need a custom drift tool to reinstall, luckily i have not pulled the bushings out yet. Has anyone done the 3rd detent pin repair? what did you use to reinstall the bushings?

I had a socket that fit inside perfectly to line it up, then I just softly tapped it in one it was started.

I realized it didn't matter if I messed up the outer edge of the bushing too much because it never comes in contact with anything. I de-burred it until the pin would slide in, then added the spring and cap.

[vishus]

I don't have the tools so I'm wondering how deep to set the bushing in the hole? I've removed the original ones but can't remember if they were flush with the lip or set in further! I think I vaguely remember the reverse bushing was maybe 1/8" below the lip? Were they both the same depth or...... ?
Any help appreciated!

[snaponbob]

I don't have the tools so I'm wondering how deep to set the bushing in the hole? I've removed the original ones but can't remember if they were flush with the lip or set in further! I think I vaguely remember the reverse bushing was maybe 1/8" below the lip? Were they both the same depth or...... ?
Any help appreciated!

Here is the ONLY answer to your questions ---

GET THE TOOLS.

They are less than $100, can easily be resold, and you will get the installation exactly correct. Or you can rent them from members here. This is called "jumping over bags of hundreds tick up a dime".

[mitch500]

anyone have the tools for sale? or rent? bimmer diffs wont ship to canada.

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I don't have the tools so I'm wondering how deep to set the bushing in the hole? I've removed the original ones but can't remember if they were flush with the lip or set in further! I think I vaguely remember the reverse bushing was maybe 1/8" below the lip? Were they both the same depth or...... ?
Any help appreciated!

ill be doing mine soon, i could measure the depth of the bushings and let you know.

[TH3 Shifty]

anyone have the tools for sale? or rent? bimmer diffs wont ship to canada.

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ill be doing mine soon, i could measure the depth of the bushings and let you know.

i have the Thayer tools for the detents... you're welcome to rent them

[mitch500]

i have the Thayer tools for the detents... you're welcome to rent them

Nice! Yea they won’t ship to Canada either lol

I’ll pm you about rental.


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[snaponbob]

At the risk of beating a dead horse, this is a task that can be ONE correct way.

If someone in Canada wants these tools for themself, if you are willing to paying for TWO shipping charges, I would be glad to buy a set and ship them to you. I have shipped to Canada before because individuals are not constrained by Customs issues as retailers are. Hell, I shipped a Solstice steering rack to Crete a few years ago. (Shipped as a gift -- on paper !!)