I didn't bother reading the whole thread so I dont know if this was covered.
However I would wrap a piece of 1000 or 1500grit sandpaper on a wooden dowel and try to smooth it out a little.
Old thread bump - troubleshooting situ:
Friend of mine bought a used ZF - we immediately replaced all 5 pins.....without confirming the trans was fine or not...we were too excited.
Now the trans will only shift from 3<-->4 and no movement to left or right for other gears.
Question - Is this a symptom of a specific mistake in the detent service/repair or something deeper in the trans?
Thanks in advance!!
Nitin G. Shanbhag
BMWCCA #101510
87 951, 88 M3 2.5, 88 E30 S52 Project, 95 M3/2 Slicktop, 96 E36 "TrackBeater", 97 M3/4 Slicktop, 97 TJ, 98 M3/4 Daily, 00 F150 7700
E36 TrackBeater Project Thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=884145
Sounds like possible installer error. Did you use the proper drifts, etc?
If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1998 Alpine White & 1998 Arctic Silver ///m3/4/5
JC Intake - ASC Delete - Dinan TB - Flow Matched 21.5# Injectors - JC Tune - SS Euro Reps (modified to retain SAP) - z3m ssk - Eisenmann Race 76mm - Yokohama Advan S2 - Squared LTW's - FK Silverline +X - Rogue FCAB/ RTAB/ RSM/ TM - X-Brace - CDV Delete -Racing Dynamics F&R Strut Braces - NGK BKR6E- German Castrol 0w-40
I've done ten of these. Even without ANY of the detent pins installed, ALL gears are available. In other words, the gearbox can be shifted through all 5 forward and reverse. (Obviously on the bench). I can't imagine how only the middle gate would be all that is available.
I am hoping, for YOU, that the box is not back in the car !! If it is, make sure the shifter is not at fault. Doubtful. In or out, the box needs to be back on the floor. Pull all the detents back out (side and top) and see what the box will allow. Assuming the side (big) detents were in correctly, if i won't shift, it's toast.
The 1st/2nd spring doesn't even get replaced so you should still be able to go over, even if you somehow @#$%^ and jammed the 5th/reverse springs.
Last edited by MauiM3Mania; 03-27-2015 at 01:41 AM. Reason: profanity
Not sure I understand the 1st gear statement. The middle fork is the 1st/2nd, and the detent pin is part of the kit. Or, are you referring to something else?
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...29&hg=23&fg=15
Last edited by MauiM3Mania; 03-27-2015 at 01:40 AM. Reason: profanity
Maybe I'm misinterpreting, but he said the gear lever can't move left or right. That would point to something @#$%. If he messed up the 5th/reverse pins he wouldn't be able to go into those gears, but the 1st/2nd gate should be accessible. At least thats the way the springs seemed to work when I did the job (twice).
Last edited by MauiM3Mania; 03-27-2015 at 01:39 AM. Reason: profanity
Yes.
I must say, that after doing a BUNCH of these ZF detent projects, two were boxes that were brought to me. ONE had other issues that that reduced it to scrap, and the other one turned out fine, HOWEVER, I can not remember if I ran through the shift pattern before I did the work. I sure make this my the first priority in the future. ZF's have a reputation for being hard to hurt, so it simply was not a concern. It will be NOW !!!
Last edited by MauiM3Mania; 03-27-2015 at 01:39 AM. Reason: profanity
Thanks for the responses guys - let me clarify a bit further:
1 - unfortunately the trans was put back in the car.....would only shift forward/back - no side to side gate movement.
2 - Trans removed from car, linkage fully removed, attempt to twist selector joint yielded ZERO movement left to right
3 - All 5 pin servicing went one by one..with no issues, usage of OE style drifts from Bimmertools
Only thought of suspect "brain fade" could be the install of the 5th/Reverse Ramped Pin/Detents.
So - would either of those installed incorrectly relative to ramp orientation fully lock the trans from left to right gear selection?
Thanks again!!
Nitin G. Shanbhag
BMWCCA #101510
87 951, 88 M3 2.5, 88 E30 S52 Project, 95 M3/2 Slicktop, 96 E36 "TrackBeater", 97 M3/4 Slicktop, 97 TJ, 98 M3/4 Daily, 00 F150 7700
E36 TrackBeater Project Thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=884145
I don't think so. If you put each one in upside down it might lock out reverse and 5th but the 1st/2nd gate should still be accessible. It's an easy check, pop out the circlips+plastic caps and remove the 5th/reverse pins. If you can't move it left/right still something is very wrong inside. At that point I'd be hunting for a new gearbox.
Don't even have to remove the big pins on the side. Just remove the blue plugs. But, as crustashio said, the box is probably killed.
how many of you have replaced the two smaller bushings for the detente pin located by the holes on the trans for 5th and reverse? Bushings are PN 23-11-7-533-394. This detente pin keeps the shifter in gear. Here's more info from this thread...
http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=398477
Thanks.
Nice write up. I always wondered what the 3rd blue cap was for
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
I guess not many people find it necessary? Seems if that one wore out and started sticking it would make it difficult to move the lever forward and rear, in and out of all the gears, or impossible if it got stuck in the extended position. If it got stuck up the bore in the compressed position, there would be no resistance/click when putting it in to a gear or to keep it in gear, so it would slip out of all gears.
2/'99 M3 Coupe - Estoril Blue / Black Vader / Contours / Style 32s - 200K
ARP Studs | M50 manifold | ASC TB, SAP, and CCV delete | Catch Can | 7K limiter | DSSR
Factory X-brace | Eibach/RD strut bar | Vogtland coilovers | RD front sway | Powerflex FCABs | JT RSMs | Factory RSM reinforcement plates | ECS RTAB limiters | Z3 rack | 0-ring shielded lower steering column bearing | RD front bumper cover | ZKW E-codes | C33 Aux-in mod | BSW mids
Got an issue...just did the detent springs in my ZF. The tranny goes into all 6 gears but it's really hard to move the lever left to get into 1-2 and R. It goes in but takes 2 hands to get into 1/2 because there is so much tension pushing the shifter back to the 3/4 position. Is my gearbox F'd or did I do something wrong?
I'm trying to use a blind hole puller to remove the bushing for Reverse. Just wondering how many of you have used the puller vs the chisel method to remove the bushings with success? If I stick the mandrel nubs right up against the deep end of the bushing, will I scratch the cylinder? Or should I put the nubs somewhere inside the bushing? I'd like to do the former if no damage will result. I'm using the 2nd smallest collette from a HF kit. Thanks!
I gave up on the blind hole puller. I have a specific flathead screwdriver that I have "spooned" the end to allow removal of the bushing. I keep it sharp and make sure I work at the seam of the bushing. ALWAYS test my blood pressure meds !!
This ^
I've done a bunch of these detent sets. I remember the "first". I was nervous , but now after my 6th or 7th set, I can bang them out in 20 min for all 5. But, the spoon is the best. Take a flat head and grind it and curve it to the shape of a spoon. You won't even knick the aluminium with this method.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
I removed the 5th gear and Reverse bushings via the chisel method. Did you guys also install bushings for the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 pins up top? There are no bushings to begin with. I've never had a problem with shifting into any of the gears but the stick was becoming a little sloppy in neutral and going into 5th gear.
Last edited by scooper; 06-10-2016 at 06:40 PM.
Change them
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Read the instructions on any of the websites that cover this procedure. They explain the three top detents this way....there are no bushings in these. The shaft wears out and the detent pin wears out. The only solution is to insert a sleeve and use a detent on that is slightly smaller than the originals. If you have the correct drift pins you can do the top three in about 3 minutes.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Yeah I've been following those instructions. I guess if those little bushings are the upgraded parts I'll install them. After I removed the 5th and reverse pins I didn't notice the curvature nor the 2 angle ramp on either pin. I think I read about that in the same instructions or it might be from the diy on that sliding pin located near the 5th and Reverse pins (which I'm not going to touch as I haven't had any gear pop out before).
Re-use all the springs?
Anyone know if there's an aftermarket selector rod sponge replacement part? Seems like that part would disintegrate really fast, especially when oil leaks out of the selector rod seal. I've already replaced the seal and sponge, but just curious...
Thanks!
Bookmarks