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Thread: Problem Removing Distributor Rotor Button

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Moon, VA
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    1998n Z3 2.8

    Problem Removing Distributor Rotor Button

    Hi,

    It has been a few years since my last major tune up, so I decided to give it a go. I have adjusted the valves, changed the fuel injectors, spark plugs and wires, but the distributor cap removal was an ordeal. I finally got the radiator shroud positioned where I could reach the bolts. The rotor hex screws are not cooperating with me, except one. I used a 3mm hex wrench and got one loose, but the other two screws are stripped and rounded off. I sprayed some PB Blaster on the screws and will give it a try in the morning using some vise grips. Whomever attached the rotor must have really hunkered down on the screws.

    If any of you have any suggestions how to get the screws loosened, I would appreciate hearing about it.

    Seth Anderson
    Moon, VA

    1987 BMW 635CSi L6

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Boston, Ma
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    1,649
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    86 635,72 E3, 88M6,73 E9
    Bet the vice grips will work. If not, don't suppose you have a Dremel or equivalent. Cut a notch , seat a chisel in the notch and a gentle (given location and material working with) hit may do it. I think the threads are not reversed but look at the new one to make sure.
    Rob E3

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Moon, VA
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    19
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    1998n Z3 2.8
    Thanks. I am going to let the PB Blaster soak in overnight, then try the vise grips after some light taps to help break things free. If that doesn't work, then I will get the Dremel out and cut a slot. The threads are right hand threads. I got one of the three loose. Once I get the old rotor off, there will be antiseize on the threads of the new rotor, for sure.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    West Nyack, New York
    Posts
    1,391
    My Cars
    86 635csi 98 740i 96 MB
    I would grind as much of the rotor that I could around the screws to get a better hold because your space there is limited.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    North Central Florida
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    88m5,2015 Silverado
    once you break the rotor, the heads are exposed,but in my experience , they will back out easily, be "gentle" when you break the rotor....the rotor is fairly brittle, so it should break easily

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Moon, VA
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    19
    My Cars
    1998n Z3 2.8
    I managed to get the rotor button off by first tapping the heads lightly, then grasped it with some vise grips, and using back and forth movement, they both popped free. One of the thing that has made the repair difficult is not removing the radiator fan. I do not have the tool that holds the pulley still. I know they are left handed threads, but mine wouldn't break loose. Another curve thrown at me was the TDC position sensor plug has disintegrated and fell to pieces. I managed to plug it back in, wrapping the broken plug with electrical tape. Is the TDC position sensor the same as a crankshaft position sensor? My car is a May 1987 version. It mounts in front of the engine near the water pump. Any idea what part number it is?

    Next on the list is to replace the Oxygen sensor, once I get it up on ramps. I also need to change the ATF and ATF filter, replace the gear oil, and flush and replace the antifreeze, but not having a lift, I might just pay someone to do it..

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    North Central Florida
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    88m5,2015 Silverado
    TDC sensor is a nothing ...it was used by factory equipment to get to TDC

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    New Orleans
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    My Cars
    '84 633CSi, '82 911
    Quote Originally Posted by drseth View Post
    One of the thing that has made the repair difficult is not removing the radiator fan. I do not have the tool that holds the pulley still. I know they are left handed threads, but mine wouldn't break loose.
    I know this is an old thread, but, in case anyone else is experiencing difficulty removing the fan, I thought I'd share what I did to hold the pulley (based on someone else's suggestion here). I took a big open-ended wrench and pressed down on the belt while I hit the big 32mm wrench with a hammer. Probably the easiest bolt I've loosened on the car. It's so low-torque, Bentley doesn't even talk about holding the belt or the pulley; a quick hit on the wrench with a hammer was all Bentley recommended.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    36
    My Cars
    3 Alfas, 1987 635CSI
    Got my rotor out! Unfortunately, I did it by shearing-off all three rotor screws.

    Suggestions on how to proceed? Should the distributor come out?
    Or is there access with the radiator removed?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by amykay91 View Post
    Got my rotor out! Unfortunately, I did it by shearing-off all three rotor screws.

    Suggestions on how to proceed? Should the distributor come out?
    Or is there access with the radiator removed?
    Never mind.
    Removed the allen bolt that attached the rotor to the camshaft. Came out rather easily.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    New Orleans
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    '84 633CSi, '82 911
    If you can't get the three rotor screws out with vise grips, you can buy a new rotor adapter (as I believe the iron part is called). They're not too expensive.
    Last edited by NOLA6; 07-06-2014 at 08:25 AM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Killeen TX
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    1977 320i-s, 1986 635csi
    easy way for the radiator fan is just put your wrench on the nut for the clutch. (REVERSE THREAD) and then just whack your wrench with a mallet. Works like a charm for me
    E21 Legion and proud member
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    54
    My Cars
    1986 e24
    Hello All;

    I snapped off one of the three bolts that are holding down my distributor cap and bolt into the aluminum casing. The fact that it is now broken, what is the best way to remove it and is it necessary to do it now that it done?

    I know that I will have to deal with it when I have to remove the cap, but until then, will I have any issues while it is together with the two bolts and the third missing it's head?

    Thanks;

    Brian

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    North Central Florida
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    88m5,2015 Silverado
    break it all the way off and then the screws should come on out. Be careful you don't break the adaptor it bolts to. Might be ok with only 2 screws and the other without the head

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