With should be Will*
Hey you guys! Today I went for a quick run to shell and when I got out my door wouldn't unlock. I tried it for a couple times but to no avail, so I went to the passenger door and it unlock it. So I went back to the driver side and it lock it, the unlocking of it was working find in the morning and after I got out of class it was until after I got home and left that it stop working. When I got back home it unlocked once then it hasn't ever again, I tried using wd40 but that didnt seem to work. Im not sure what else I can do, I went searching around and came up with it could be my key fob (suggested to reset) and the lock actuator. Any help?
Driver Side Door: Locks, doesn't Unlock
Passenger Side Door: Locks and Unlocks
Trunk: Locks and Unlocks
Ignition: Works.
Last edited by G562; 11-07-2013 at 03:57 AM. Reason: I suck at reading my own title
I have the same problem. Subbed
'96 328i sedan >MODS< Check engine light, Rust on rocker panels, worn tie rods, pukes coolant from any orifice at any given time, Wobbly steering wheel, Open diff, Riding high like four wheel drive, windshield washer nozzle sprays other cars, non-sport seats, saggy glove box, key spins some times. Clear coat worn off where PO rested his arm on the door sill, SAP screams like a banshee, AC belt screams like its mother, black soot on tailpipe, loose exhaust cover, looser heat shield...TOO MANY TO LIST!
I'm lost.
Is this issue still going on or did it stop?
If I read it correctly all the locks work correctly except the drivers side? When you use the key in the trunk or passenger side all the locks should lock. What happens when you try to lock the passenger door using the key? What happens when you try locking the drivers door with the key? What happens if you are inside the car and push the lock button on the door? If you are in the car with the doors locked, pulling either inside door handle once should unlock the car. Pulling the handle a second time will open the door.
Do you have an alarm? Is it OEM or after market?
My guess is that if everything except the drivers door lock works correctly then your issue is with the drivers door lock actuator.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Sorry, what I meant was that the driver side doesn't unlock but it does lock. So if I would go to the passenger side and unlock it and go to the driver side it will lock it. Also the door does unlock from the inside both by pressing the button and pulling the handle. Passenger and Trunk work both ways.
I don't have an alarm system whatsoever.
Sorry but a bit more info is needed just for clarification
With the car locked and you turn the key in the drivers door what happens to the drivers door and the passenger door?
With the car unlocked and you turn the key in the drivers door what happens to the drivers door and passenger door?
It's definitely an issue with the lock or door handle or actuator in the drivers door. We need to isolated which one
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
I can't physically turn the key to the unlock position on the driver's door. Is this kind of what your problem is like?
'96 328i sedan >MODS< Check engine light, Rust on rocker panels, worn tie rods, pukes coolant from any orifice at any given time, Wobbly steering wheel, Open diff, Riding high like four wheel drive, windshield washer nozzle sprays other cars, non-sport seats, saggy glove box, key spins some times. Clear coat worn off where PO rested his arm on the door sill, SAP screams like a banshee, AC belt screams like its mother, black soot on tailpipe, loose exhaust cover, looser heat shield...TOO MANY TO LIST!
Thanks for the details. You have a worn key or the lock tumbler is worn or both
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Ill look into this thank you for the help FlyFishvt!
Stop telling us what works, we get it, the doors always lock.
Go to the passenger door and unlock the car, does the driver door unlock?
I'm not sure what I'm reading, but it seems that the driver door does not unlock with the key, do other locks unlock with the key FROM THE DRIVER DOOR?
If only the driver door does not unlock from the key in the driver door, then the driver door lock mechanism has taken a bye. If the drive door does not unlock when the passenger door is unlocked, the door lock actuator has gone south -- however, if this was the case then the button would not unlock the door either, so I'm discounting this problem.
When the key is turned one way stuff is pulled, and when turned the other way stuff is pushed. You have linkage trouble that prevents the pulling or pushing. When you turn the key, Item 20 moves one way or the other, this is where your trouble is, or it is a part related to Item 20.
Bumping an old thread. I don't have keyless entry, so here is my situation:
Driver side door locks/unlocks both doors with keys.
Driver and Passenger doors unlock/lock each other, but not trunk!
Trunk unlocks/locks both door and trunks.
Is it a faulty trunk actuator or what could cause the disconnect between doors and trunk?
Last edited by BMWManiac; 06-18-2020 at 01:48 PM.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
The trunk key hole can be set vertical or horizontal. When vertical, the trunk lock is told what to do by the doors, when the trunk lock is horizontal, the trunk is always locked. The trunk lock can either lock or unlock the doors, but not both lock and unlock. If the trunk is not doing what the door locks tell it to do, then the list of usual suspects includes a broken wire in the wire harness that goes from the fender to the trunk lid.
I did confirm it doesn't matter which way the lock is oriented. You don't think the trunk latch actuator would be the culprit? I removed the sheath to and extent and didn't see any broken wiring anywhere along the trunk lid, so I will see if I can follow from the trunk. Is there any other place where it would have an issue? Between the trunk/passenger compartment maybe?
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Turned out to be the trunk actuator. Fortunately it was the easiest fix ever -plug it back in. Unfortunately, spent the money to replace it already, ha!
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
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