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Thread: Battery tending

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Calgary, Canada
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    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    Hi all.
    so I'm getting some good and some confusing info from these reads (and other threads)
    I currently have been using the CTek 3300 http://smartercharger.com/products/b...multi-us-3300/ (4 phase charging) hooked up to the +/- terminals under my hood for the past 4 winters with what seems to be great great success to me.
    I bought this battery tender just days after installing my 2 new Interstate MTP-93's so I have been maintaining them when the car sits (whether for a day, or 4 months at a time), but now I'm reading that I may have insufficient charging abilities from this little device?
    the specs show I can charge up to 120aH batteries, but since I have in parallel two 90aH batts, I'm now thinking I have the wrong batt tender.
    I read that the downfall to this set up (less powered tender) means it can take longer to achieve the same results?

    So an alternative from Ctek is the 7002 http://smartercharger.com/products/b...multi-us-7002/ (which I know MANY of you run). Perhaps I will just purchase that to hook up to charge both batts from under the hood, because I do not desire removing them from the car and bench charging them individually.

    another smart charger from them now is the new MUS 4.3 test & Charge. too bad it didn't have a higher battery range for charging, because I'm sure the test alternator/starting system/batt feature would be great on our older cars.
    http://smartercharger.com/products/b...-3-testcharge/
    Last edited by clockwork; 04-09-2014 at 05:38 PM.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  2. #27
    Join Date
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    95 BMW 850
    I thought it was $105 one day on Amazon.ca Now it's $123 which is still good as it includes free shipping.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Vancouver Isl, BC, Canada
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    09 335, 98 Evo M3, 01 M3
    i just made a quick connect connection in the trunk, then i have a 2a float charger that i always plug in when i park the 8.(its not my daily, so it sits for weeks or more at any given time). The cord is thin enough that i can close the trunk lid on it without any damage. Its enough to keep the batteries fully charged. The status light is usually in the 'float' mode. Never had even a weak start.
    Last edited by legoman67; 04-10-2014 at 08:31 PM.
    Current:

    - 09 335i
    - 98 M3 Eurospec
    - 01 M3

    Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Langley BC Canada
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    2,850
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    91 850 Panzer
    My CTek 3300 does a wonderful job of keeping the Panzer fully charged...
    91 850 (Panzer), 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman (WifeMobile) www.wuffer.ca

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    MD
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    91 850i
    Quote Originally Posted by revtor View Post
    You make a mistake: The Duralast 49DL is not 155 Ah. In fact I can't even find the Ah rating. It's listed as 155 reserve minutes. I've never seen battery capacity expressed like that here in Europe so I'm not sure what exactly it translates to, but comparing to other batteries that list both reserve minutes and Ah it should be around 85 - 95 Ah what makes sense given the dimensions of the batteries.

    The CTEK Multi 7002 is capable of charging batteries between 14 and 150 Ah, but it can maintain batteries up to 225 Ah. So even with a pair of Duralast 49DL (170 - 190 Ah) it's well within specs for maintenance. Only if you cannot maintain the batteries (no power outlet near the car for example) and have to charge the (partially depleted batteries) every once in a while, you may have to look at a more powerful charger like the CTEK Multi 25000 (even though the 7002 will probably charge them as well - it's just going to take a lot longer).
    You are right, 49DL are not 155aH (more like around 70aH)! I recently purchased the CTEK MULTI US 25000 and I connect from the battery + post under the hood and my batteries charge up to 100% overnight and stay there. If I have around a 60% charge, it takes less than 7 hours to get to 100% with the 25000. I usually plug in a cigarette lighter voltmeter (handy tool) and monitor the voltage. I try to charge up the batteries to 100% every few months. I daily drive my 8.

    The MULTI US 25000 is amazing, so fast, has a built in fan and temperature sensor to automatically regulate output based on ambient temperature (just don't plug it in under the hood when HOT). Totally worth the $250 it costs.

    CTEK MULTI US 25000 and CTEK MULTI US 7002 Smart Battery Chargers by MJR GROUP, on Flickr

    CTEK MULTI US 25000 and CTEK MULTI US 7002 Smart Battery Chargers by MJR GROUP, on Flickr
    Last edited by mjrgroup; 04-12-2014 at 06:13 AM.
    1991 BMW 850i / ZF4HP24 E/H

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    FL, Sydney, Hong Kong
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    1992 E31 850i
    Yup, can't go wrong with the ctek, I have the mxs10 and it's been great. They are weatherproof too so you can leave it outside or hanging out of the boot (trunk)
    The supply function on the more expensive cteks are also great for little jobs and diagnostic around the garage.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Calgary, Canada
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    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    Hi guys, I have an operational question about the ctek 7002 model
    so I just disconnected my ctek 3300 batt tender (batts were fully charged) and swapped in my new Ctek 7002 charger but when I hooked up the ctek 7002 using the more permanent eyelets connection, under the hood (same place I always charge with my ctek 3300 using aligator clamps) this new 7002 model tender makes clicking sounds every 2 seconds (in any mode), like its electrically cycling through something inside the Ctek's plastic housing.
    the tender has been on over 12 hours and still shows orange light on the 1/2 battery status.
    I'm thinking the new tender is faulty because my 3300 model never made clicking sounds, and even if my batts were worn down a bit, by putting the 3300 on the terminals under the hood, the batts would definitely be charged back up after a 12 hour period.
    Anyone else have the same clicking sound from their ctek 7002 as its charging?
    Last edited by clockwork; 04-15-2014 at 10:48 AM.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    MD
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    1,241
    My Cars
    91 850i
    Hi clock

    I've run multiple 7002s and have never heard any clicking noises. Neither my 25000 nor my 7002 make any clicking noises! I advice having your unit serviced.
    1991 BMW 850i / ZF4HP24 E/H

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Calgary, Canada
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    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    Mike, I am returning it today and will stick to my Ctek 3300 to keep my batts maintained during winter. It never failed me in the past, so I shouldnt have upgraded/played with it.
    Thank God Amazon lets you send stuff back for free

    UPDATE: I connected the 7002 using alligator clips to the terminals under the hood, like I used the ctek 3300 with, and the 7002 worked perfectly.
    I do not know why the 13mm nut that is connected to the underside of the + power distribution hub/terminal, under the power wire that goes to the alternator, is not able to be used with the ctek eyelets wire connector but I can use that 13mm nut to power my air horn.

    Anyhow I'll keep the 7002 until it proves me wrong.
    Last edited by clockwork; 04-15-2014 at 03:30 PM.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Oro Valley, AZ - USA
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    see my signature
    Quote Originally Posted by clockwork View Post
    Hi guys, I have an operational question about the ctek 7002 model
    so I just disconnected my ctek 3300 batt tender (batts were fully charged) and swapped in my new Ctek 7002 charger but when I hooked up the ctek 7002 using the more permanent eyelets connection, under the hood (same place I always charge with my ctek 3300 using aligator clamps) this new 7002 model tender makes clicking sounds every 2 seconds (in any mode), like its electrically cycling through something inside the Ctek's plastic housing.
    the tender has been on over 12 hours and still shows orange light on the 1/2 battery status.
    I'm thinking the new tender is faulty because my 3300 model never made clicking sounds, and even if my batts were worn down a bit, by putting the 3300 on the terminals under the hood, the batts would definitely be charged back up after a 12 hour period.
    Anyone else have the same clicking sound from their ctek 7002 as its charging?
    Been using my CTEK 7002 for about 7 years, over the course of 18 BMWs including three E31s. Tonight I put my 840 on the charger (permanent quick connect connection in the trunk) and after an hour I happened to go in the garage and heard the electromechanical relay clicking every 2 seconds as you reported, stuck on the second orange light.

    I opened the trunk lid and the trunk light came on, which in turn caused the CTEK to resume normal operation. Not sure what's going on, but will check again later this evening. First time this has ever happened.

    UPDATE: yup, it went right back to the solenoid clicking... Going to try it on a single battery car next, like my M3.... Hoping it's not the charger! But it still sucks to buy two new batteries if the charger turns out to be ok. Ahhh the E31 life!
    Last edited by Chamberlin; 04-18-2018 at 09:17 PM.
    2004 BMW E46 330Ci 6spd (Oxford Green Metallic 2)*
    2002 BMW E39 525i Sport 5spd (Oxford Green Metallic 2)*
    2001 BMW E53 X5 3.0i Sport (Oxford Green Metallic 2)*
    1995 BMW E31 840Ci (Oxford Green Metallic 1)*
    2001 BMW E39 530i Sport 5spd (Aspen Silver Metallic)
    2001 BMW E38 740i Sport (Sahara Beige Metallic)
    2000 BMW E38 740i Sport (Sahara Beige Metallic)
    1994 BMW E31 840Ci 6spd (AVUS Blue Metallic)
    2000 BMW E38 740i Sport (Titanium Silver Metallic)
    2007 BMW E91 328iT 6spd (Deep Green Metallic)
    2000 BMW E36/7 M Roadster (Oxford Green Metallic 2)
    1999 BMW E36 M3 Coupe 5spd (Fern Green Metallic)*
    2000 BMW E36/8 M Coupe (Oxford Green Metallic 2)*
    2001 BMW E36/8 Z3 3.0i Coupe 5spd (Oxford Green Metallic 2)
    2002 BMW E36/7 M Roadster (Oxford Green Metallic 2)
    2007 BMW E63 M6 SMG (Silver Grey Metallic)
    2006 BMW E86 M Coupe (Sepang Bronze Metallic)
    2009 BMW E92 M3 DCT (Space Grey Metallic)
    2008 BMW E92 M3 6spd (Melbourne Red Metallic)
    1997 BMW E31 850Ci (Jet Black)









    * = current




  11. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Gardendale, AL USA
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    1995 840 Ci, 1959 Sprite
    I agree with Wuffer, the ctek 3300 has worked well for me for years. At the last battery exchange when one of the two over five year old Auto-zone Duralasts died and effectively killed the other one, I did the one battery delete and have been operating on just one Duralast for over two years now. Works great but Iím in Alabama and not in the frigid north but do get a fair number of below freezing days during winter months. Not daily driver but kept on ctek attached to underhood posts with alligator grip ends when not being driven. Must have a good GM though before going to battery delete route.
    Last edited by vet73; 04-19-2018 at 10:22 PM.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by vet73 View Post
    I agree with Wuffer, the ctek 3300 has worked well for me for years. At the last battery exchange when one of the two over five year old Auto-zone Duralasts died and effectively killed the other one, I did the one battery delete and have been operating on just one Duralast for over two years now. Works great but I’m in Alabama and not in the frigid north but do get a fair number of below freezing days during winter months. Not daily driver but kept on ctek attached to underhood posts with alligator grip ends when not being driven. Must have a good GM though before going to battery delete route.
    Thanks for the helpful reply - much appreciated!

    P.s. I just checked my stash, and I actually have a CTEK 3300 as well! I think I got it in the trunk of (you guessed it) my latest 840Ci! I just put it away as I considered it inferior to the 7002 model. Well I've now got the 3300 hooked up, let's see what happens.
    Last edited by Chamberlin; 04-21-2018 at 06:27 PM.

  13. #38
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    Gardendale, AL USA
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    1995 840 Ci, 1959 Sprite
    Quote Originally Posted by Chamberlin View Post
    Thanks for the helpful reply - much appreciated!

    P.s. I just checked my stash, and I actually have a CTEK 3300 as well! I think I got it in the trunk of (you guessed it) my latest 840Ci! I just put it away as I considered it inferior to the 7002 model. Well I've now got the 3300 hooked up, let's see what happens.
    Let us know how that model works for your situation. Iíve always had good results with the under hood connections. Works well for me on one or two batteries. I have rebuilt/replaced the caps in the GM module to stop the parasitic drain that the 8 series is so known for.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Sunny Cali,
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    6.5 second 69 Camaro
    Ctek and same Optima batteries since 2006, No issues yet, Going to replace with same batteries this summer anyway.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by vet73 View Post
    Let us know how that model works for your situation. I’ve always had good results with the under hood connections. Works well for me on one or two batteries. I have rebuilt/replaced the caps in the GM module to stop the parasitic drain that the 8 series is so known for.
    Will do guys! I'm probably due for at least checking for parasitic drain (just did it in one of my E38's, 55mA after 16 minutes! whoohoo), and I also just received the (50 pound!) official BMW OEM electrical diagram binder from a BMWCCA member. Paid $100 for it, 1995 edition, perfect for my car.

    Hey 8Eights, 12 years out of a pair of batteries is a damn good bang for the buck.
    2004 BMW E46 330Ci 6spd (Oxford Green Metallic 2)*
    2002 BMW E39 525i Sport 5spd (Oxford Green Metallic 2)*
    2001 BMW E53 X5 3.0i Sport (Oxford Green Metallic 2)*
    1995 BMW E31 840Ci (Oxford Green Metallic 1)*
    2001 BMW E39 530i Sport 5spd (Aspen Silver Metallic)
    2001 BMW E38 740i Sport (Sahara Beige Metallic)
    2000 BMW E38 740i Sport (Sahara Beige Metallic)
    1994 BMW E31 840Ci 6spd (AVUS Blue Metallic)
    2000 BMW E38 740i Sport (Titanium Silver Metallic)
    2007 BMW E91 328iT 6spd (Deep Green Metallic)
    2000 BMW E36/7 M Roadster (Oxford Green Metallic 2)
    1999 BMW E36 M3 Coupe 5spd (Fern Green Metallic)*
    2000 BMW E36/8 M Coupe (Oxford Green Metallic 2)*
    2001 BMW E36/8 Z3 3.0i Coupe 5spd (Oxford Green Metallic 2)
    2002 BMW E36/7 M Roadster (Oxford Green Metallic 2)
    2007 BMW E63 M6 SMG (Silver Grey Metallic)
    2006 BMW E86 M Coupe (Sepang Bronze Metallic)
    2009 BMW E92 M3 DCT (Space Grey Metallic)
    2008 BMW E92 M3 6spd (Melbourne Red Metallic)
    1997 BMW E31 850Ci (Jet Black)









    * = current




  16. #41
    Join Date
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    OK, update.... The CTEK 3300 could not charge the batteries either, just stayed stuck on the second light for 48 hours. So I pulled them both out and measured 12.72V on one and 12.89V on the other.... Seems pretty normal, but the date codes on the batteries are 2013, so I'm guessing they're just done.

    So I decided to do a single battery conversion and picked up an AGM H8 tonight:



    One note, and one question regarding the single battery conversion....

    First, for 840Ci owners, you can't exactly follow the online YouTube video instructionals if they are using a 1991 850i as their example. The right to left (+) jumper wire is a different color, and there is no junction box mounted on the right rear shock tower like on the 840's. Just tone out the jumper wire to make sure you are abandoning the correct cable.

    Secondly, I see that the 850 cars have a second threaded hole for the battery clamp, so you can use an H6 or a longer H8. But on the 840, the hole is there, but there is no threaded insert to screw the post into! Dammit! So what do you guys do to hold the batteries down when installing MTP-93, Group 49, or H8 batteries into an 840?

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