Electric water pumps

[gisqc]

I agree that restricting coolant flow isn't ideal... some people claims that to much flow doesn't let the engine cool enough (because water doesnt stay long enough for the heat exchange) and purposely puts a T-stat inline (which does reduce the flow a little bit). It makes no sense... more time in engine to "gather" heat = more time in rad to cool down... it's a closed loop system and more flow does mean less chance of hot spots.

Anyway I bought a low temp T-stat which I plan to build an housing for (since it's impossible to retain the stock T-stat, atleast on a S54, with an electric pump setup). Will completly remove the OEM water pump and just make a piece to plug a hose there and run the return straight to the radiator, with a bypass hose to the T-stat housing. It may not be needed, but it will just ensure the car never runs to cool and it's not that much more complicated. All this with a stewart pump...

What I've read on the Craig Davies pump wasn't all that good... maybe better with the PWM driven by an ECU, but from the controller box it said something like it had the pump ON/OFF (not varying speed) to get temps up without a T-stat... like 10 seconds on 10 seconds off at beginning. Maybe I got that wrong, but I'm pretty sure that is what it looked like in the doc. Sure is the WORST way to control temperature... hello hot spots!

[Allona]

I know this is an old thread, I am planning on installing an EWP on my e36 race car. Any tips on how to install a small belt to drive just the alternator when deleting the mechanical water pump?

[ScotcH]

I know this is an old thread, I am planning on installing an EWP on my e36 race car. Any tips on how to install a small belt to drive just the alternator when deleting the mechanical water pump?

It does not work very well ... we have EWP and EPS, so only alt was needed. For a while we ran just a belt on crank and alt, but it would throw belts. Tried to find a routing that could keep the tentioner, but without custom brackets, no go.

We ended up just running a gutted OE waterpump. Just cut off the impeller. Basically an idler pulley. Then got a shorter belt to bypass PS as well.

Original setup:
frontengine.jpg

Current Setup:
20171204_212413.jpg

[Allona]

It does not work very well ... we have EWP and EPS, so only alt was needed. For a while we ran just a belt on crank and alt, but it would throw belts. Tried to find a routing that could keep the tentioner, but without custom brackets, no go.

We ended up just running a gutted OE waterpump. Just cut off the impeller. Basically an idler pulley. Then got a shorter belt to bypass PS as well.

Original setup:
frontengine.jpg

Current Setup:
20171204_212413.jpg

Got it, thanks.

I already have the same shorter belt and routing, so just need to get a cheap water pump and gut it, dont want to kill my trusty Stewart.

I see you are using the Stewart EWP and controller. I plan on using the Davis Craig 30gph pump and run it 100% of the time on my 2.8L M5X, it is hot at the track year around down here.

[jakermac]

I plan on using the Davis Craig 30gph pump and run it 100% of the time on my 2.8L M5X, it is hot at the track year around down here.

If you get the Davies Craig digital controller with it, you won't need to run it full time. If the controller decides it needs to be cooled, it'll run the pump for you. And if it needs to be cooled the whole time, the controller will run the pump the whole time.

[PCarroll]

I know this is an old thread, I am planning on installing an EWP on my e36 race car. Any tips on how to install a small belt to drive just the alternator when deleting the mechanical water pump?

You need to shim the thermostat open and pull the impeller off the water pump. You keep the water pump housing and pulley.

I searched high and low for a stretch belt of the right size to skip the water pump. But none seem to exist. Works great using the water pump pulley though. And you need the thermostat housing anyway.