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I found a couple photos that I took at this step -Originally Posted by roccojugle
One is with the rubber grommet removed at the bracket and slid up out of the way. You can get regular wrenches on the fitting but no room to turn. The other pic shows the steel line carefully bent up to a point where the fitting is easy to wrench on. Hope this helps. Not sure if your hose routing and clearances are the same. Good luck!
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you inspired me to finally get out there and do some work (and the fact that its 49 degrees doesnt hurt either). I just inatalled my Ireland Eng clutch line on my 3.0. Fits perfectly, smooth install. Only thing I wasnt aware of when I purhased it is that it completely bypasses the CDV. So I have a brand new Zeckhausen modified CDV that I have no use for. uploadfromtaptalk1394301963375.jpg
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I thought one advantage of the stainless clutch lines (IE, UUC, etc) was that they eliminate the CDV and its effect on clutch action. Are there any stainless clutch lines that do keep the CDV?
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
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see i wasnt aware if that until i looked and realized there was no way a CDV was goingin there. as far as your question now that i look at the designs it seems like this may be the only logical way for them to make these, assuming CDVs were really that much of an issue
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I am curious how you did the bleeding of the line and slave cylinder. Did you use a pressure or vacuum tool, or just gravity? And did you follow the suggestion about removing the slave, inverting it and pressing it against the transmission to bleed it?
Top-Hoist
I ended up with the exact same problem.
Member
i havent bled it yet. im in the middle of swapping in stainless brake lines also so it is empty. i do have a vacula dx 2.5 bleeder, and thats what i use for my brakes, works great. was going to use it on the slave as well and see how it does
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I had to take my slave out to bleed it. As soon as I inverted the slave, I heard all of the trapped bubbles go up to the top. Reverse bleeding didn't really work for me, but maybe i didn't do it right.
Member
The slave apparently can trap air unless removed and inverted. Here posts all giving that tip:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...80&postcount=5
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...4#post26602674
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2#post16538542
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d-clutch-fluid
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I was lucky I guess....didn't remove the slave... just had a helper pump the clutch pedal and bled the air out at the slave. It took several pumps and refilling the reservoir but finally the pedal firmed right up. Its been good ever since. Very firm. I like the feel now after the cdv delete.
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Well like you said, I am very far from the e34 forums. My situation is NOTHING like yours. If I was looking at that I would never have even been on here looking for advice hahaha. It was horrible getting this job done. I ended up cutting the lines off, cutting the bracket off, then cutting the whole assembly off a donor car(wish the owner had an account here) and finally got it all cleaned up and put on. what a damn mess!!
Seriously thank you for the helping words guys!
Oh, I did the two people-pump pedal-bleed method.
I dont know if its how others did it but
with the pedal depressed
open bleeder
than close
then release pedal
repeat..
Member
To loosen, or tighten, the fitting connection where the rubber hose meets the steel line, I've never failed to get one loose__or tight__by postioning the two (2) wrenches, so that squeezing them together with one (1) hand produces enough force to crack the fitting loose, or the final nudge for tightening.
The heads of the wrenches are canted X number of degrees for a reason, usually to rotate half as much as one (1) flat of a six (6) sided nut will allow.
As far as online shipping rates go, regardless of vendor, You're better off making that phone call. Many use an automated checkout system that automatically calculates the shipping. Imagine my shock when I wanted to place an order for a Shrick intake manifold gasket and shipping was "about" $14.00. Being nobody's fool, I knew that after a long search to find them (crucial to Eurosport Twinscrew work) I decided to get a few spares. Yes, four (4) flat gaskets worked out to nearly $60.00!! I was ordering MLS gaskets as well as some ARP hdwr, and thought my order justified some personalization, and the shipping was reduced to probably less than $20.00 total for the order.
Call them, these are people who like to talk about cars too...
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Usually, that method of bleeding the clutch is not good enough. You need to squeeze the air out of the slave cylinder by (1) using the special BMW tool, or (2) pressing the plunger against the side of the transmission.
Member
Yup, I agree with this. I had to do this.
Member
I bought Goodridge g-stop , I like them for my motorcycles so I decided to go with them.
Sorry I had a brain fart... Goodridge G-stop brake lines and IE SS clutch line. I heard problems with UUC line with where and how it's bent in the hard line doesn't make for an easy connection. No problems with IE and I've had it on for about 2 years now.
Last edited by redlinealley; 12-21-2017 at 08:41 AM.
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And what is a Goodridge g-stop?
Member
im assuming this http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo....r=GR-31003-CLU
Member
Hey- quick question for the chose the Rogue Engineering stainless steel hose guys- received mine yesterday and I'm too lazy to put my car up to take a look at the old hose, but I thought it would come with some sort of hard-line fitting on one end? Mine is just the flex line with two fixed ends. Just want to make sure that's correct for the //M application before I get under there.
IMG_3635.JPG
Misdirected soul
Correct part
Member
BMW CCA Member
Anyone here install the Ireland Engineering (IE) SS clutch line? IE claims it has, 'the correct 90 degree angled end (no adapters required).' Honestly, 90 degrees looks more severe than either the UUC line or the non-M line some folks advocate (#21 52 1 159 714). Thanks in advance.
Member
A couple of years ago I bought a UUC stainless clutch line. It seemed a good idea because I assumed my old rubber line was swelling. It was only $30, and a shop installed it for $70 while I waited.
But getting into 1st gear was harder afterward. This month I had my brake fluid and clutch line bled at another shop. I told them I thought were was air in the slave, and printed out the special instructions for bleeding the slave.
Now shifting into 1st gear is OK. Be careful that installing a nice hard stainless steel clutch line does not get air in your slave. How would the average shop know that the slave must be removed, inverted, and pressed against the transmission? They will actually question this and resist it.
Last edited by Vintage42; 12-15-2017 at 04:11 PM.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
Member
BMW CCA Member
Vintage42 - Thanks for jacking my inquiry to share your experience with a different product. I’ve reached out to the one identified IE user, ticklemejoviemo. Anybody else?
Member
I apologize. My post was not meant to be about a particular product, but about the problem of bleeding the slave cylinder when any clutch line is installed. I posted it as #59 earlier in this same thread, and thought it was OK to repeat it.
Last edited by Vintage42; 12-16-2017 at 09:44 AM.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
Member
You may want to start your own thread.
It's a Hybrid--Burns Gas and Rubber
Member
I bought and installed the Ireland Engineering stainless clutch line and have had zero problems with it. My car had a squishy old rubber line that worked fine cold but shifts became increasingly difficult as the car warmed up, especially if I had to sit in traffic. I decided to roll the dice on bleeding it with my pressure bleeder and a helper instead of removing the slave - it's been working great since then with zero mushiness.
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