Yea, sorry. My ABS problems and this line are both up there on important things to get done. The wheel sensors were replaced by the previous owner.
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Really appreciate your helps guys! I might go with Rogue after I'm a bit more comfortable with my other problems. Thanks in advance!
Not to say your situation is akin to mine - but I'm running the original sensors (160k miles), but have found that popping them out, blowing off all the dust (don't know how it gets in there - but we do live at the end of a dirt road); popping the connectors and reconnecting them solves the dash ABS lights 99.9% of the time. YMMV
Well, ordered the Rogue engineering stainless clutch line. I figured that since i was going to be DIYing this, i could afford to spend a little more.
I know this thread isn't about this, but my ABS problems were all in the module. Fix and installed already. CEL light was some minor code for a possible fuel leak. Hasn't come back, but i'm exactly sure what that was about.
Any good ways to bleed the clutch without using a pressure bleeder and two person method? I was thinking about doing the reverse bleeding method where you use an oil can.
Remove the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw. Let fluid drain for a few seconds with line straight down. With bleed hole pointing up, press slave cylinder plunger into cylinder by pressing against transmission housing. Close bleeder screw before releasing plunger. Refill brake fluid reservoir. Repeat once or twice.
Last edited by Blacklane; 10-20-2013 at 07:56 PM.
i ordered one from rogue engineering
Yes, spring loaded. This isn't ours (Mazda, apparently), but see here as an example: http://bellsouthpwp.net/P/o/PopVII/C...%20Rebuild.htm
One quote from near the end of that long article: The small mild spring inside the slave bore helps hold the piston and pushrod against the release arm.
Last edited by Kenn; 10-13-2013 at 10:00 PM.
Well, i get my line in today. I might or might not be able to change it out today. We'll see.
Replaced the line and bled it today. Had to take the slave off to bleed lol. Well, it's not a HUGE difference, but the CDV was definitely part of the hose...smaller outlet vs inlet.
The clutch seems to have a solid engagement point without hickup or variation. Shifting is much more crisp. I need to drive the car during my daily commute to really tell. It's very consistent which is a plus!
Anybody else want to comment on what they felt with their stainless clutch lines?
Out of curiosity, can you measure the diameter of the smaller end? Drill bits make a good size checking tool.
/.randy
Just ordered my RE one!
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anyone have a preference on Slave Cylinder brand? Does it matter?
Of the rubber line? I'll see what i can find lol.
One thing i want to say about the RE line. It fit perfectly at the slave end, however, at the master end, the diameter of end seemed a bit too small. Almost protruding it's bracket? It's kinda hard to explain. Basically, it used a 14mm flare wrench at the master end instead of the 17mm flare wrench like the original line. No noticeable leaks.
This is my general consensus about the Stainless lines: If you have a removable CDV, remove it. If you have a CDV line, like me, i would replace it with a stainless line just to get rid of the CDV. I'm not too 100% sure on the total benefits of the stainless clutch line, or if they're even noticeable.
In essence, if you can remove the CDV, do it. If not, replace it with a stainless line. If you remove the CDV and still want the stainless line, go ahead lol. It won't hurt.
Yes, where ever the small section of the rubber line is you talked about above.
The only change in feel that can be attributed to the CDV or restricted line is when your clutch apply or release speed exceeds the fluid flow capacity of this orifice. Any change in feel, like more consistent and positive release at normal release speeds can not be put on the CDV. Nor can any change in release height as the CDV only affects the rate of engagement, not the overall travel.
In my case, the clutch used to release very near the floor, and got worse as it warmed. I replaced the line without any on car bleeding; the only fluid changed was the volume in the hose. It now releases at the correct height, and more importantly is no longer temp sensitive.
/.randy
The slave master end (smaller end), I stuck a 1/8 drill bit in...too small. the next size down, 7/64 seemed to go through perfectly.
I should reword that. The 1/8 inch drill bit was too big and the hole was too small for it.
SERIOUSLY I'm working on a 95 530i m60 5-speed. I am having such a huge problem getting the top fitting off(fitting the goes to master). I don't understand. how did you guys get this off!?
You're quite a ways from the E34 forum, and obviously the V8 may change everything, but here's how I did it. There simply is not enough room to get two hands holding wrenches in there at once. So. One 11mm crows-foot line socket on a 20" extension and a breaker bar. Put the assembly in place on the tube fitting from the top. Then work your hand down in with a 14mm wrench and get a firm bite on the hose side. While holding the hose, reach up with other hand and break loose the line. Your cylinder head and exhaust will likely put a stop to this method. But maybe you can do the same in reverse from the bottom. crows foot line sockets are the key.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4884_200614884
Last edited by rf900rkw; 03-03-2014 at 05:50 PM.
/.randy
I remember having difficulty at this point as well. Try this- with the clutch slave end of the hose disconnected, and the rubber grommet at the upper bracket removed so the hose is free, carefully pull the hose up slightly so the fittings are more accessible to your wrenches. Do not kink the steel line. I used regular 11mm and 14mm open end wrenches and it came apart.
Finally an answer that helps. THANK YOU I've never even seen these wrenches before!I just searched clutch line in any forum hahah didn't realize I was in the Z forum.
Again thank you for not flamming me and actually helping.
My biggest issue now is that the lines are rusted together..
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