ZF 4HP22/24 + 5HP30 valve body overhaul in detail

[shogun]

go to http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html
and click under new and updated on the left valve body overhaul and then the section
Maintenance on the valve body: Detailed write up -- many great photos 4HP22 tranny repair with lots of detail
Pics and write up and documents provided by Jason

[DV8OR]

Funny you should post his I am about to attempt to rebuild my 4hp24 valve body is the 4hp22 similar enough to use this as a guide?.
I am just having a hard time finding a rebuild kit for it, research and calling around there is no kit for you have to order the parts individually. No one seems to want to "put" a kit together for me and I am not sure what parts to order by themselves.
Any advice?

[shogun]

Same procedure for the 4HP24. As you can see from the write up by Jason, he opened the valve body up and checked it first and then ordered the items needed only after checking, just the big main gasket and 1 ball for 3 $, new filter, pan gasket etc.
For the 4HP22 as well as for the 4HP24 there is no standardized valve body repair kit as for then 5HP30, because too many versions. For example the main gasket is - as far as I remember- available in 3 or 4 different designs. Normally, if you ask a shop to offer you a repair set, you should inform them the transmission type, the transmission serial number and the Stuecklistennummer = parts list number , so all what is mentioned on the ZF type plate of the trans. Or they offer you a large repair kit which includes many parts never needed and that costs $$.

So use the online available ZF 4HP24 parts lists and then find a shop which sells you the single parts instead of all the kits.
From my experience you might needs
balls of differene sizes, see parts list from ZF
gasket/s inside the valve body (not always needed, we often just clean them)
sometimes a spring is broken (rare cases , so far we found that on <5% of all we did)
For example this gives you an idea
box code 1043-030-XXX (xxx = unknown)
https://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/zf4hp24.pdf

this gives you info about common parts in 22 and 24 and the part numbers of the gaskets in valve body
http://www.zf.com/media/media/docume...s/4HP24_22.pdf

Technical Material
Repair Manual (BMW) 1043 751 110



Check out the write up by Jason once more what he ordered, that gives you an idea.

Edit: I just found this info:

Currently, you need four different valve body gaskets to service the 4HP22. Each gasket has been updated several times, so the gasket you install will probably not look exactly like the one you took off. Don't fret, Liebchen. You can identify gaskets for an electronic trans by counting the number of “bathtubs” in the separator plate. Early models have one “bathtub”;
late models have three. Just remember to use a gasket that has the same number of “bathtubs” as the one you're replacing. Because both the early and late hydraulic gaskets have fumf...er...five “bathtubs”, you have to look for the hole shown by the arrow in the photo. If the plate has this hole, use a gasket that has one, too. Otherwise, use the gasket without the hole.

Source:
ZF'S 4HP22, The Trans That Functions Wurst in Emission Tests http://www.transtec.com/downloads/re...3rd_q94r-n.pdf

By John Wozniak, TransTec Transmission Product Manager

Now and then, someone asks why we write so many articles describing problems with Japanese transmissions. We try to explain that, like an 800-pound gorilla, the problems with those transmissions are too much to ignore. But stand back! Here’s a bunch of great photos and information you need to work on one of the world’s Most Quirky transmissions
... the ZF 4HP22. This is the baby that quits moving forward after an emission test, which makes BMW owners froth at the mouth. Since that froth is often directed at the guy who last worked on the trans, we figured that you’d like some way to defend yourself.

The Ever-Popular(?) Diesel-Powered Lincolns
BMW has always been ZF’s biggest customer for the 4HP22 - and still is today - although BMW has started to use GM’s 4L30E in some vehicles. Other ZF customers include Jaguar (6-
cyl. only) Range Rover, Audi, Volvo, and maybe three Lincolns that have a BMW diesel under the hood, along with a ZF 4HP22. Volvo used a ZF 4HP22 for a while in the late ’80s, but they’ve gone back to Aisin Warner for transmissions. Right now, the Industry Gurus say that there are some 250,000 late-version ZF transmissions (4HP22s) out roaming the streets.
Ask, And You Won’t Receive (from ZF)
As you’ll see when you read the “side-bar” that’s on page 5, getting information on the ZF trans is a pain in the asterisk. You sure won’t get help from ZF, so if you expect to work on a
BMW (or the Jags, Range Rovers,Audis, Volvos, and Lincolns that have this transmission), best you keep this little expose handy. Hey... it’s no Jackson/Presley event, but then ... what
is? In case you don’t know, ZF is a German company whose name is so long I won’t even try to spell it. Everybody calls them “ZF”, and who am I to go against S.O.P.?
ZF makes nothing but transmissions and steering components for several European car makers. Their first automatic trans, the 3HP12, leaped to life in 1960. Later, their heavy-duty 3HP20
came along, but in 1976, both those original trans were replaced by the 3HP22.
It Was Follow-The-Pack Time
In 1984 ZF cranked out their first 4-speed overdrive unit, and named it the 4HP22. Not feeling particularly inventive, ZF used the same tactic that everybody else was using to make a 4-speed; they just added an overdrive section to their 3-speed 3HP22. But the fabled German engineering genius couldn’t let this opportunity go untouched. ZF stuck the overdrive unit
on the back of the 3HP22, instead of on the front like everyone else. Now that’s what high technology is all about!
Gimme an E! ... Gimme an H!...
Around 1986, ZF introduced their electronic 4HP22-EH. Try to remember that “E” means electronic and that “H” means hydraulic. At least ZF is dealing here with the real world... every
so-called “electronic-controlled” transmission still uses hydraulics. The solenoids just tell the fluid where to go.
In 1990, BMW needed a heavy-duty version to work behind their 12-cylinder engines so ZF engineered the 4HP24 (I’ll fill you in on the differences later). About that time, Audi needed a
front-wheel drive, so ZF stuck a final drive on the front of their 4HP24, and Audi stuck the combination on their Model V8. ZF also produces some true FWD versions, the 4HP14 and the 4HP18. The “18” is available in both inline and transverse models. In this article, we’ll stick to the rear drives, but some information here applies to both types since the basic design is the same.
Who Needs Hi-Tech to Chase Elephants?
Since sometime in 1990, all vehicles wearing a 4HP22 are running the “EH” (Electronic/Hydraulic) version. That’s all, except for Range Rover, who is still using a hydraulic version, even these days. As a Tech friend of mine says, “Range Rover is on the trailing edge of technology.” Sarcasm may not be dead, after all..
Before you strain your eyeballs, all the photos you see here were taken of an early, hydraulically-controlled 4HP22. There are a lot of similarities between this 4HP22 and other models,
so most of the information with these photos will also apply to other models.

1) This O-ring provides the seal between the filter and valve body. Somewhat untamed, this O-ring tends to “walk” when the filter is removed. Since the pump likes to suck up fluid, not air, your day will be much brighter if you make sure you put this O-ring back where it belongs.

2) Those ZF guys must have been frightened once by a bell housing that fell off. They've put enough bolts on this hummer for three transmissions.

3) After you wear out your impact wrench taking off the bell housing, you get to remove the pump assembly. Pay attention to the way the pump gasket goes on. If you install the pump gasket backwards, you'll have a lovely bind in reverse. The I.D. marks on the pump gears face up.

4) Always look for signs of ring grooving (see arrow) on the inside of the stator shaft. Ring grooves are also the reason the trans loses forward movement during an emission test. Most States let you rev the engine (to relight the catalytic converter) before you take emission readings. But if the stator shaft and sealing rings are worn, running the engine at 2,000 rpm in Park or in Neutral lets the converter oil partially apply forward (A) clutch, instantly destroying it. The quick thinkers at ZF have finally started to harden the inside of the stator shaft; if the one you're looking at looks perfect, chances are it's one of the new hardened shafts. You can get the complete stator assembly from only two places; from the car dealer or from ZF direct. But you can get replacement shafts from aftermarket suppliers.

5) Here's what just a tiny bit of stator and ring wear produces. It sure surprises me that the “huge” - 3.94" O.D. - friction will burn so easily. This friction is the main thing ZF changed when they came up with their “heavy duty” 4HP24. The frictions on that one are 4.92". Apparently, the European Wizards finally realized that they needed something bigger than motorcycle-sized frictions to handle a 12-cylinder engine.

6) Make sure that you install the O-ring on the input shaft. Otherwise, the forward (A) clutch fluid leaks past the spines, and you learn to swear in German.

7) When you install the reverse and direct (B) clutch, don't forget to put this O-ring under the metal washer. This O-ring provides the same protection against leaking fluid that the O-ring on the input shaft provides.

8) Here on the back of the drum is an easily-forgotten sealing ring. Don’t forget it.

9) “Oben” is the German word for “up”, as in the hearty Teutonic drinking toast “Oben Yours” accompanied by a great clinking of steins. Then the party gets rough.

10) Here are the overrun (C' is ZF's designation), the intermediate (C), and the low & revers (D) clutch assemblies. You must have clutch clearance in the three areas shown by the arrows. If you don't have clutch clearance, you've either swapped pistons or stacked up the clutches in the wrong order. Both are nein-neins. The pick in this photo shows where the thin
steel fits in the low & reverse clutch. Leave the low & reverse fairly sloppy (.090").

11) Check very carefully to make sure there aren't cracks in the area shown by the pick. If you find any,the thing is kaput.

12) You're looking at early and late input one-way clutches. If I was working on one of these, I’d update the roller style (the one on the left) with the sprag style, but that's your call. To complete the update, you also have to replace the ring gear (the top one).

13) This is what an intermediate one-way clutch looks like when it's disassembled. Normally, you won’t take it apart (If you must, it isn’t difficult; just remove the three spring clips that hold the assembly together). Look carefully at this photo and you’ll see that there are no springs by the rollers. No springs makes the clutch feel bad even when it is good. If you hold the assembly in a horizontal, non-operating position, you can even turn it both ways. Later units use a sprag; again, that’s your call.

14) The setup you see here won’t compress the Bellevue spring enough to remove the retainer. You need something that exerts pressure around the entire spring.

15) I’m sure glad I didn't have to put this baby back together!

16) Another place to be on the lookout for ringgrooving is on the governor. At the left in the photo is the early metal ring. On the right is the late Viton rubber ring. Go with the Viton, every time.

17) Every 4HP22 uses eight small rubber plugs to seal the supports to the case. Remove the snap ring and spring before you remove these plug-seals. All the plug-seals must be removed before you even think of removing the internal components.

[shogun]

and here for the 5HP30

ZF 5HP30 valve body kit instructions - for DIY
This come with the original 5HP30VBK from ZF
http://www.bavtech.com/archive/5HP30...structions.pdf

trans flushing the DIY way

The idea is from our Japanese wrenching buddy "Take" and last weekend he, Hairywithit and their humble servant Shogun were called by a shop to solve the hard shifting problems on an
E34 550 = E34 with M70 V12 engine with ZF 4HP24.
So we went there to his shop as we wanted to have the trans and fluid cold, so it is easier to remove the valve body and clean it up. After diassembling the valve body and cleaning it, cleaning the solenoids, installing new balls, we flushed the system the Take way.
For that I bought a 2 meter long plastic hose with inner diameter 26mm, a hose clamp for that.
So we installed the cleaned valve body again, installed the trans filter again and installed on the suction pipe of the trans filter the plastic hose which led into a bucket with fresh trans fluid.
Trans pan of course not installed. Then we lowered the lift as much as possible to avoid too much ATF splashing. Then the engine was started and the trans pump sucked the ATF from the bucket thru the plastic hose into the system and the old ATF was pushed out from the torque converter, ATF cooler and lines etc, we ran the engine till fresh fluid came out from the trans.
Some weeks ago we even shifted on another car thru all the gears, but that makes a lot of ATF splashing onto the floor, so we are thinking of making a kind of plastic sheet funnel to avoid to much splashing onto the floor.
After doing that, we installed a new filter, filled up the trans fluid and the shifting was again super smooth.
As usual, do it at your own risk. But we have done that now on several transmissions and with all we had success, cleaning valve body and then flushing the trans system.

[shogun]

There are now pics on my website how to DIY a trans flush, no matter if ZF4HP22, 4HP24, 5HP18, 5HP30, all same procedure

See under fixes>>>gear box - valve body>>>Automatic Gearbox flushing method
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